31
General Discussion / Re: JohnZ --
« on: June 27, 2021, 02:00:46 AM »
RIP John Hinckley. He was a wealth of information and it is a great loss for the Camaro world. Prayers go out to his family.
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32
Originality / Re: 1969 Camaro Package Tray Speaker Cut Outs
« on: June 27, 2021, 01:57:23 AM »
My 69 Z has the 4 speaker system with factory 8 track underdash ( no consol ) and the original rear package tray cardboard was shaped like the metal underneath. Owned it since 1974 BTW.
33
Maintenance / Re: Sleeve in 69 4bolt CE Block
« on: June 03, 2021, 01:22:53 PM »
We used to step sleeve the damaged bores, that is - we bored the original damaged cylinder leaving a small approximate 1/4” of original cylinder at bottom of bore for sleeve to sit against which stopped it from moving down, the cylinder head and gasket stopped it from moving up.
The only thing I can think is that they didn’t use enough interference fit on sleeve and someone was worried it would move and welded it at the bottom. I would definitely have it pressure tested to make sure that it has no leaks if original damage went through to water jacket area.
The only thing I can think is that they didn’t use enough interference fit on sleeve and someone was worried it would move and welded it at the bottom. I would definitely have it pressure tested to make sure that it has no leaks if original damage went through to water jacket area.
34
General Discussion / Re: Seat mounting holes
« on: May 15, 2021, 01:16:04 PM »
My 06A -69 RS Z28 has both sets of holes . Canadian docs Owned since 1974
35
General Discussion / Re: Water pump date codes
« on: May 04, 2021, 11:40:51 PM »
IMO - A -J98 pump is way too early for a V0107DZ, you need Dec, plus it should be a “692” pump I think, the “170” pumps are cast in Tonawanda and doubtful it would make its way onto a Flint assembled DZ, pretty sure this has been discussed before?
Mike
Mike
36
Restoration / Re: 4053 Carb Ink Stamp Font?
« on: April 14, 2021, 10:22:13 PM »
Here’s my front bowl, as well as a in the GM box NOS 4053 I have
37
Restoration / Re: 4053 Carb Ink Stamp Font?
« on: April 10, 2021, 01:07:10 PM »Good catches Mike, the carb was serviced at some point since new and the clutch screws were discarded when the accelerator pump was replaced as is unfortunately sometimes the case. The later fuel line support bracket was added as February builds didn't have them. There are other service items in the engine compartment including the distributor vac diaphragm and plug wires. The photo was posted to highlight the carb ink stamp however as is typical in Vintage Certification, there are deductions for these service items, the carb in the main wasn't one of them. I'm really interested in identifying the font for the ink stamp?
Thanks Lloyd, I will try to get a picture of my carb bowl ink stamp, If I can get the air cleaner off where my car is stored under my hoist . I think my carb body ink stamp is almost invisible now.
Just a thought - Can you take the pictures to a stamp & stencil company to have them reproduce it?
38
Restoration / Re: 4053 Carb Ink Stamp Font?
« on: April 10, 2021, 03:52:33 AM »
Thanks, that’s what I remember and what my own 06A RSZ has, I’ve owned it since 74, it has the same ink stamp bowl BTW., and it has a rear line support.
39
Restoration / Re: 4053 Carb Ink Stamp Font?
« on: April 10, 2021, 12:27:23 AM »Photos I took at MCACN 2016 Vintage Certification of Jim B's 20K mile 1969 2A built Norwood Z showing the same stamp and font on the airhorn:
Just wondering here, not to question the Vintage judging or Jim’s car, but why would a 02A car have the fuel line support bracket? Also I thought 4053 carbs used the accelerator pump housing with clutch type countersunk retaining screws? Lloyd could this picture be another carb on another car?
40
Restoration / Re: Smog Pump Restoration
« on: March 07, 2021, 03:34:34 PM »
LOL - As I was typing my post yours came up, same sort of fix for manifolds . Cheers
41
Restoration / Re: Smog Pump Restoration
« on: March 07, 2021, 03:31:15 PM »
Very Nice job Lloyd.
I have done probably about 30 pumps & systems now, & I do things slightly different . I always tap the 2 cover alignment pins out first with a small pin punch, measuring the hite of the small 1 first, this allows the back cover plate to be rotated/wiggled, which helps tremendously to take pump apart, plus if the pumps are siezed up you can wiggle & use penetrating spray to loosen up. I use a small steering wheel puller to take the front white fan & hub off as a assembly, I don’t like disturbing the plastic fan if it’s ok. If I do disturb/change the plastic white fan I always use a little epoxy or JB weld on the hub as I don’t like relying on just the plastic press fit on inner hub.
When I change the front plastic poured bearing I use a small torch to melt the OEM plastic out once I set it up in the press. I do the same as James did & groove the replacement brg OD with receiver grooves for the JB weld.
I set the internal drum on the press table and then press the outer housing with new bearing installed onto the inner drum using a appropriate size deep socket as a press tool, this allows you to wiggle & rotate the outer housing as you press to make sure nothing is in bind and also eliminates putting pressure on the outer bearing race/JB weld. Then I press the completed white fan/hub onto the assembly, this assembly procedure let’s you have a better feel IMO to avoid any binding issues. Finally I install the back cover/inner shaft assembly and bolts leaving them finger tight till the dowels are tapped/pressed back in.
On a recent Restoration where the exhaust manifold tube holes and internal threads were ugly is I used 1/8” tapered Allen pipe plugs to block the holes, instead of roofing nails or rivets in the smog rail tubes, this positively eliminates any leaks or sealing issues. Simply thread the manifolds from the outside and install the plugs leaving them proud .065 towards the outside, so smog rail tubes are tight & at the correct hite & not loose. Reason I did this was the manifold threads were a little compromised/ugly and we didn’t want to take a chance on them stripping when assembling. Hope this helps.
I have done probably about 30 pumps & systems now, & I do things slightly different . I always tap the 2 cover alignment pins out first with a small pin punch, measuring the hite of the small 1 first, this allows the back cover plate to be rotated/wiggled, which helps tremendously to take pump apart, plus if the pumps are siezed up you can wiggle & use penetrating spray to loosen up. I use a small steering wheel puller to take the front white fan & hub off as a assembly, I don’t like disturbing the plastic fan if it’s ok. If I do disturb/change the plastic white fan I always use a little epoxy or JB weld on the hub as I don’t like relying on just the plastic press fit on inner hub.
When I change the front plastic poured bearing I use a small torch to melt the OEM plastic out once I set it up in the press. I do the same as James did & groove the replacement brg OD with receiver grooves for the JB weld.
I set the internal drum on the press table and then press the outer housing with new bearing installed onto the inner drum using a appropriate size deep socket as a press tool, this allows you to wiggle & rotate the outer housing as you press to make sure nothing is in bind and also eliminates putting pressure on the outer bearing race/JB weld. Then I press the completed white fan/hub onto the assembly, this assembly procedure let’s you have a better feel IMO to avoid any binding issues. Finally I install the back cover/inner shaft assembly and bolts leaving them finger tight till the dowels are tapped/pressed back in.
On a recent Restoration where the exhaust manifold tube holes and internal threads were ugly is I used 1/8” tapered Allen pipe plugs to block the holes, instead of roofing nails or rivets in the smog rail tubes, this positively eliminates any leaks or sealing issues. Simply thread the manifolds from the outside and install the plugs leaving them proud .065 towards the outside, so smog rail tubes are tight & at the correct hite & not loose. Reason I did this was the manifold threads were a little compromised/ugly and we didn’t want to take a chance on them stripping when assembling. Hope this helps.
42
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1969 Z28 124379N635021
« on: March 04, 2021, 03:55:07 PM »
You would think they could have found a correct water pump & heater hose fitting as well as the cowl hood flange & seal for that price.
43
Maintenance / Re: Head Gasket Steel Shim Style
« on: February 26, 2021, 02:41:32 AM »I always used steel shim gaskets and I would prepare the head surface and block deck with a new honing stone and WD40 to lube.
Remove dowel pins and hone away until surface scratches are gone all most a mirror finish - very smooooth.
Then file a flat on dowel pins the length as this action lets air escape when installing pin.
Honing stone is the same stone used to sharpen/hone your pocket knife, use the light colored side.
Wipe off WD40 on all surfaces and cylinder bores.
I’m Just wondering why you would file a flat on the dowel pin ? It’s not a blind hole, it goes into the water jacket on SBC, or am I missing something? Not to question, but wondering?
44
Originality / Re: Water pump gaskets 69z
« on: January 06, 2021, 02:04:03 PM »
FWIW - I don’t know if 69 is different from 1970 BUT- I have a unmolested 6,000 mile 1970 Z28 LT1 motor , that has never been apart ( except for taking valve covers off ) , and it has a 4 hole gasket on passenger side and the 3 hole gasket on drivers side. I had old NOS GM gasket kit before and it had 1- 4 hole gasket and 1 -3 hole gasket.
I was under the impression that the 4 hole gskts were generic type that were supplied by rebuilders?
I’ve been trimming the extra hole off for years in all our restorations.
Maybe James or Kurt will comment?
Hope this helps.
Mike
I was under the impression that the 4 hole gskts were generic type that were supplied by rebuilders?
I’ve been trimming the extra hole off for years in all our restorations.
Maybe James or Kurt will comment?
Hope this helps.
Mike
45
Originality / Re: 1969 thermostat housing
« on: December 19, 2020, 11:23:31 PM »
My 06A RSZ has the original thermostat housing and the “660” is by the outer lip. I’ve owned the car since 1974 BTW.
Additionally I have a survivor 1970 Z28 CTB Motor with 6,000 miles and it is by the outer lip also. It has never been off.
I have noticed that cast intake cars had it on the neck, and pretty much all the original aluminum intake cars had it by the outer lip. JMO.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Additionally I have a survivor 1970 Z28 CTB Motor with 6,000 miles and it is by the outer lip also. It has never been off.
I have noticed that cast intake cars had it on the neck, and pretty much all the original aluminum intake cars had it by the outer lip. JMO.
Hope this helps.
Mike