Messages

1981

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: February 02, 2012, 02:58:11 AM »

These are our original sub-frame bolt examples from our 68 01B NOR Camaro.
Left hand bolt #3912533 used in #2 & #3 sub-frame mounts. Page50 1968 AIM.
Right hand bolt #3914816 used in #1 sub-frame to rad. support mount. Page50 1968 AIM.

Top bolt- # 3912533 Bottom bolt- #3914816

1982

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: February 02, 2012, 02:13:14 AM »

Marty, you have added some great suggestions along with some others so that is good! We might want to keep this as simple as possible or members may choose not to paticipate. Example: Instead of the picture with a tape measure etc., you could use one of your examples with the red measurement lines to show/communicate how a screw/bolt should be reported. Pete brings up some excellent points. I will assist anyway I can.

1983

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: January 31, 2012, 05:00:51 AM »

These are now back in the car but the door hinges to door and pillar had three different bolt suppliers. All three I have seen in other cars but it seemed so odd to have three different suppliers in one car but......

1984

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: January 31, 2012, 04:51:24 AM »

Dave got me thinking that he is on to something! He mentioned and showed a #9420415 with the 'D' logo and how it was used in many locations. Maybe what might be of help is to take this in smaller junks so it does not become so large we end up abandoning what can and will be an excellent exercise. I just spent time documenting all the front end screws called out in the 68 AIM. One screw jumps out at you if for anything the amount of locations and pure numbers. Screw # 9780422! 68 AIM pages include 137, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145, 149, & 153.
What is it used for? -Header panel to fender  -Inner fender to fender  -Support brace from fender to rad. support
Valance to fender extension  -Hood catch support  -Fan shroud brkt to rad. support  -Battery Tray  -Headlight housing
If members check cars and report back we can document the different head markings (suppliers) Marty has graciously put together. Example: Marty had each head marking numbered so with information from members we could at least have a feel for what were the predominant suppliers used for a specific part #. Just a thought!

1985

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: January 30, 2012, 04:02:50 AM »

Marty there is some great work going on here but it is becoming quite apparent there are a lot of suppliers, right?
What I'm starting to think is it would be great to start to put part #'s with key componets and determine what the normal mix of suppliers were with a specific bolt. I will try to give the part # on any bolts I give in the future if I can find it.
Just finished rebuilding our M21 and all the side cover bolts are 'sbc' along with the tail-stock to main housing except for one 7/16 'L5'.
The 2 rear trans cushion mount bolts part#9419073 were 'bIs'
While cleaning the Fisher body window guides all the bolts were 'TTL'

1986

Restoration / Re: A Arm washer etc finish 1969 Z/28

« on: January 29, 2012, 12:55:49 PM »

Thanks Chick will get those originals restored properly. Finish on the bolt heads? repro's are dark gray, assume phosphate?
Cheers
Michael Kellogg
LM69Z28

Yes Michael, phosphate! You can find phosphate info with the search key. I as many purchased the solution from Palmetto Enterprises (http://www.palmettoenterprises.net/P...-Welcome-.html). Lot's of info on this phosphate process doing searches as well. Very easy process with the biggest thing being bolt/fastener prep (glass bead best).

1987

Originality / Re: 69 Front/Rear Bumper Factory Stamps

« on: January 28, 2012, 03:17:05 AM »

Have not looked at a repop for years but they used to have thinner material.

1988

Restoration / Re: A Arm washer etc finish 1969 Z/28

« on: January 27, 2012, 12:08:38 PM »

Chick,  Great thanks how about the bolts (heads) and washers finish? mine are head stamped RBW with lines at 12 5 and 8 o'clock
Appreciet the help very much!
Cheers
LM69Z28

Washers phosphate and RBW bolts are very common. A lot of RBW bolts in our 68 including #2 & #3 sub-frame mtg. bolts.
Have fun

1989

General Discussion / Re: Finally home!!

« on: January 27, 2012, 11:49:51 AM »

Wow, tell us more about the project or what you know about the Z.  How about you used a rollback truck to get the car in as they are about the same height? Has the sub-frame been sprayed with polyester?
Glad you got it home and good luck,

1990

Restoration / Re: A Arm washer etc finish 1969 Z/28

« on: January 27, 2012, 01:56:10 AM »

Correct finish for A Arm large outer washers, smaller washers and bolts as well as sub frame washers and bolts............zinc or silver cad?
Thanks
LM69Z28

Referring to your bolt question in the a-arm and sub-frame they were phosphate and not Zinc nor silver cad. The original A-arm large washers as far as I know were silver zinc.

1991

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: January 26, 2012, 11:51:50 AM »

Not a great picture but the speed nuts on the cowl blower motor box are all stamped with a 'C'

1992

Restoration / Re: A Arm washer etc finish 1969 Z/28

« on: January 25, 2012, 02:28:58 AM »

Correct finish for A Arm large outer washers, smaller washers and bolts as well as sub frame washers and bolts............zinc or silver cad?

This was discussed elsewhere recently.

Upper control arms were assembled to the shaft with the bushings and all hardware. At that point they were painted black; dipped or sprayed. The ball joint and bumper were added later.

Are you sure about the hardware William? Know the a-arm, shaft and bushings were dip painted as an assembly but was not aware of the other hardward attached.

1993

Restoration / Re: Frustration in finding the right body shop

« on: January 25, 2012, 02:12:41 AM »

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I know about Lucas and their reputation. I was hoping to stay closer to home but I will definately consider them.

68camaroZ28.......Thank you for your tip on Lucas. I didn't understand the quoting from my post and that Lucas doesn't do bodywork and paint.

Our car is currently painted but not assembled yet, and everything and anything plus associated with paint was completed by East Coast Muscle Cars which has done several cars for Lucas Restoration. The Cortez 69Z currently on the front of Camaro Enthusiast (think that is what its called) was completed by Lucas Restorations with East Coast Muscle Cars (ECMC) handling everything associated with bodywork and paint. ECMC had four cars in little over six months shot for magazines and they are just top shelf IMHO. Lonny Gordon is the owner and is easily accessible and helpful as I have known him for over 25 years. You want one of the best, then give Lonny a call at ECMC in Craley, PA.

1994

Restoration / Re: Frustration in finding the right body shop

« on: January 23, 2012, 11:38:35 AM »

The poster stated "I only need to them to put the car in paint" and asked for help with picking a shop that can do bodywork and paint with a list of "I need", etc., and he will assemble. Lucas Restorations does outstanding restoration, one of the best, but they do no bodywork and paint.

1995

Originality / Re: Correct Fasteners and headmarkings

« on: January 23, 2012, 03:41:08 AM »

Marty, don't want to stray too far from what this thread is about but as far as an inexpensive glass bead cabinet check out harbor freight. I bought one on sale and with a coupon it was only $169.95 and believe it or not it works great. Trust me, even in a cabinet you still have dust so I spent time sealing it up better. I also made a wood platform (few inches high) with dolllies so I wheel it outside. For safety I still wear a resporator as that stuff is heck on your lungs. I can tell you this, you will use it a lot more than you first think so give the purchase careful consideration. Funny story- This Fall Carlisle I go and purchase a glass bead cabinet vac and it's advertised as having 30% more sucking power. So I hook it up and turn it on and within 2 or 3 seconds it sucks one of the gloves off. Guess I had the cabinet too sealed off