Messages

1906

Originality / Again, package tray/rear window mldg. trim paint? Suede? Ever see both?

« on: March 31, 2012, 10:57:56 PM »

First off some history of discussions of a not too long ago thread- http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7432.0
Yes I could have added to that thread but thought it might be more beneficial to add facts and work to find out what might have been different configurations. Here's why!
Numerous past discussions have discussed if the inside rear window & package tray mldg. was painted with suede paint similar to the dash or a satin to semi-gloss black. Seems the majority state just black but there were some notable exceptions from Camaro owners and a couple very knowledgeable people. I thought ours was just a semi-gloss black but upon careful inspection our originals seem to be clearly painted with both suede and a satin/semi-gloss black. I realize someone might say they could have been changed since leaving the factory, and yes anything is possible but I believe these to be unmolested pieces as everything in that area was original and typical except this. The backside of the mouldings had surface rust/scale and had no paint. This would indicate they were attached to the car prior to painting. The picture might not be the best but if you could see first hand they without a doubt look like the suede was partially put on after black. Has anyone else seen this?
Thoughts?
 

1907

General Discussion / Re: DZ302 motor spark plugs & cam replace

« on: March 31, 2012, 11:14:29 AM »

I'm sure you have good reason to change much of the valve train (cam, lifters, etc.) but do your homework on cam break-in and what to do/not do if you are staying with an original type solid cam profile.
Could save you butt....

1908

Originality / Re: original A212CW for a 69 01B

« on: March 31, 2012, 10:58:33 AM »

Not the same part# but similar air filter. I thought 69's had the sq. type mesh and embossed part #.
Thought service replacements have both stenciling and changes in wire & configuration.
My examples:


The heavy mesh-


Here is one on ebay for sale that has a box dated past mid 70's! Notice how the sq wire runs different from JohnZ's pic.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260988334111?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=260988334111&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

1909

General Discussion / Re: Bill Jenkins

« on: March 30, 2012, 10:56:14 PM »

Heard about it this morning as a friend called me and told me. Just talked to a guy a few weeks ago who talked to him when he was assisting the local fire company restore an old pumper engine. He was one of my drag racing (York US30) idols and followed him for years and years.
Rest in peace Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins, you were the best of the best!

1910

General Discussion / Re: Front Shocks

« on: March 29, 2012, 10:12:30 AM »

For Lawrence and others, are there any alternatives for having ones orig. shocks re-built? I've heard this mentioned but have never read where or who!

1911

Originality / Re: Stupid Question - What does Sway Bar Rubber Sleeve/Clamp do?

« on: March 28, 2012, 12:19:58 PM »

George's picture is quite interesting. Both our 68 sway bar and brackets were painted black with the brackets seemingly dipped as many others due to small runs.

1912

Restoration / Re: Ground wire on 67 PS Rag Joint

« on: March 28, 2012, 03:37:06 AM »

You used my ol' thread at team camaro and he did respond. I also responded with this info just in case it helps.
"Maybe this will help as these are the orig. rag joints as far as I know off our 67 corvette and 68 Camaro. The only difference I remember was the Camaro joint had  smaller pin diameters. Camaro joint is on the left."



Jim's response: Drawing and comment is at http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1682861&posted=1#post1682861
"Bob,
Of all things, I have fairly good information on 1966, 68, and 69 F-car steering gears and flange and coupling assemblies. But I don't have 1967. Obviously the Camaro was not in production 1966. So the best I can do is tell you about the 1968 flange and coupling assembly.

The 1968 assembly used a ground cable with eyes on the end. I would think that the 1967 would have used the same cable. I think that the rubber bumpers were used in 1967 and possibly were eliminated sometime during 1967 production but I am not absolutely sure.

This is a drawing of the rivet cap (as it was called.) The fact that the cap is only 0.63 inches tall, I suspect that the 1967 Camaro flange and coupling assembly had rivets that were about 0.63 long and not the longer 0.75 that were used on late assemblies.

Wish that I could be of more help.
Jim"

1913

General Discussion / Re: Help and advice prior to purchase?

« on: March 28, 2012, 12:48:49 AM »

Ex casting date to inside or what one might say the backside of manifold. Other words, if you took the manifold off and layed it down upside down and looked at that backside you will see the casting date. Small mirror.......
congrats again......Love the car!

1914

Restoration / Re: Quadrajet Restoration

« on: March 27, 2012, 02:44:21 AM »

I have used Eric at Vintage Musclecar Parts, great service and the best restoration from appearance to performance.
He discussed everything in detail needed to restore, as well as kept to the price he quoted upon receipt and teardown for estimate.

I agree that Eric is an excellent source as he has restored carbs (4) for us but they were Holleys as he was not doing quadrajets for awhile and now back to them again or was last year or so. Have never used Custom Rebuilt Carbs but have heard nothing but good things about them. Talked to owner at Carlisle and he seemed like a real nice car guy. Do a search here on CRG and you will find some previous discussions concerning this topic.

1915

General Discussion / Re: small bumper guards under rear bumper

« on: March 27, 2012, 02:34:47 AM »

Original bumpers do not look like they ever had anything bolted to them, could it be that 6 bangers did not get them?

Paul

Paul, when was your car built?

1916

Restoration / Re: Tachometer calibration source?

« on: March 26, 2012, 09:34:58 PM »

Have not used it yet Dave but here is where we had our tach & gauges gone over. Know he calibrates tachs....
Gauge Repair-Gary Herbert at H&H Industries  tachman@bellsouth.net  1-800-327-8716, M-F 9-6 E.S.T

1917

Originality / Re: Original radiator cap?

« on: March 25, 2012, 10:54:08 AM »

Agree with Jeff that it should clean up nicely. Get yourself some evaporust or one of the other similar rust remover solutions and let it soak for a day. Those in nice condititon bring good money. A NOS one just brought $609 recently........
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110844214322?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=110844214322&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

1918

Originality / Re: Documenting 68 Camaro Fasteners & Hardware

« on: March 23, 2012, 11:45:18 PM »

Some valuable information concering quality and possibly safety of j-nuts! GM part # 3892755, found in 68 AIM page 66 (UPC 4 B1), attaches the front leaf spring bracket to the underneath unitized body. The j-nuts that have both quality and supply peace of mind concerning safety are the ones imprinted with a "CIP" and can be purchased through AMK. There are other similar generics that look similar but upon closer inspection they have issues and when you go to torque to the required 20 to 30 ft. lbs. you have risk of the thread pulling. Non CIP clips I looked at did not have full thread, and had less threads by up to 50%. This is not meant to communicate anything other than a CIP clip is junk, only that inspection and thought to where you purchase might be the prudent thing to do. In fact, not "might be" but "will be" the prudent thing to do. Let me tell ya what happened and then read an older post I found but found after the fact.
Remember recently I took the dummy rear out of the car and installed the original re-built 12 back in. After paint to install the dummy rear some new generic j-nuts were installed and used. When I took the dummy rear out I noticed the new j-nuts in location as the originals I had taken out when the original rear was removed. When I installed the orig. rear back in all six of the screws started nicely (3 for each bracket) and I hand snugged/tightened with a normal length 1/2" rachet and socket. Everything was fine or so I thought. After the rear was installed I later got under the car to torque those rascals to the required 20 to 30 ft. lbs. Set the torque wrench to 20 ft. lbs. and started to tighten but the bolt turned and turned. Realized quickly something was wrong. Went to another j-nut/screw and tried that one with same results but I gave it one or so more and I heard a pop sound. The thread had wiped off. Luckily the screw backed out like nothing happened and dropping the front leaf spring perch is pretty easy but the j-nut was junk. Ended up changing all three on the left side with 'CIP' j-nuts and guess what, they torqued with no issue. Went to the right side and tried to torque one with same negative result. Just decided to drop that front leaf spring eye and change those 3 j-nuts immediately. After changing the right side, all three torqued with no issues. Here are some pics showing differences and another write up found after the fact. Lesson learned by me that could save some of you some time and again possibly safety!. Still available through GM but the part # changed to 378276. AMK uses that 378276 part # in their catalog as well.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1288560&postcount=94
Old used CIP to poor quality copy-Notice the nose dimension difference.

Notice the thread form and amount of threads!

New CIP nut to left vs. some generic problem nut.

1919

General Discussion / Re: Cowl Grill Seal

« on: March 23, 2012, 03:17:37 AM »

Oh yea, Scott has helped many of us at sometime or another. Know he's helped me!
Again, will do on the hinge bolts.

1920

General Discussion / Re: Cowl Grill Seal

« on: March 23, 2012, 12:34:44 AM »

Chick - I can't remember if we covered that bolt over at the fastener threads. Can you do me a favor and post a pic of it if you have one handy? At any rate, rotating the hinge like Scott mentioned did a world of good. Lets see if it holds once I install the new seal.

Another question; what should the reveal be all the way around...cowl area, fenders and front?

Thanks

No we did not Marty and I will take care of that in the near future. A friend is sending me two different origiinal bolt heads used in that hinge to fender locatiion.  AMK has screws with the captured 3/4" washer that could be used but they are pointed and longer which is not seen when installed anyway.