Messages

1711

Originality / Re: Harmonic Balancer Bolt & Pulley Bolts Finish

« on: December 15, 2012, 10:55:55 PM »

Thanks George and Mike!

1712

Originality / Harmonic Balancer Bolt & Pulley Bolts Finish

« on: December 13, 2012, 12:58:20 AM »

Our original Harmonic Balancer Pulley bolts sure seemed to be zinc coated yet the bolts advertised as correct are phosphate.
Were they zinc or phosphate?
The other bolt that had me not sure was the harmonic balancer bolt/thick washer! The inside of our bolt had little if any signs of being a phosphated bolt but again repro's are. Is phosphate correct or?

Thanks in advance & happy Holidays & new Year to ALL.......

1713

Restoration / Re: 69 Z booster hose bracket

« on: December 12, 2012, 01:19:12 PM »

Chick....I thought that this was already the preferred method of aluminum reskinning.  My memory may be failing me when I say this......but I thought I read somewhere that this is the method Jerry M. uses to reskin the aluminum intake manifolds.

Jerry has never stated what exactly the process is other then some type of tumbling to my knowledge and of course would not expect him to explain or give out the process. Acutally, the vibratory deburr machines we had for deburring heat treated finished ground valves and other critical parts where deburring was needed around cross-holes and the like were open end and not really a tumbler that went around and around. It just vibrated and boy did that thing vibrate.

1714

Restoration / Re: 69 Z booster hose bracket

« on: December 12, 2012, 12:50:32 AM »

Chick,
all that work made me tired and not looking forward to it!! 
I put some of my small pieces in a tumbler and they come out with just the rust knocked off like bolts. I had the hose holder in there and need to see if there is any sign of a coating or what I guess. some of my bolts look like new and still have the factory coating after you take the gunk off
Thanks

Good one Bill.... I still like evaporust to see best what you have after some of the rust is removed. By the way, when I restored our bracket I had it coated with clear zinc. How do you like the tumbler process (harbor freight?)? We used to have large vibratory deburr tumblers where I worked that utilized many types of media (from hard plastic like rocks to types of stones). Confident one of those vibratory rascals with the correct size media would make aluminum pcs. look new again.

1715

Restoration / Re: 69 Z booster hose bracket

« on: December 11, 2012, 12:32:44 AM »

Near the bottom of the attached team camaro thread (our 68 restoration) you can review an original vs. repro bracket. I believe from the ones I have looked at they had a coating as Jerry mentioned or possibly clear zinc. Most observed are in nice condition and not rusty like other parts.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584&page=18

1716

Originality / Re: 67 Camaro Factory Washer Jug

« on: December 10, 2012, 01:30:51 AM »

Some GM products used black jugs like 68 corvettes but not sure of applications. Believe 68 might have been the first year, maybe!

1717

General Discussion / Re: Sick of seeing this Z on ebay

« on: December 09, 2012, 04:23:36 AM »

On Danny's original report it just states "No VIN on deck". It said nothing about the oil filter area. Either no one looked for the VIN by the oil filter or it was added after Danny sold the car. Very confusing.

Jerry checked by the filter and there was no VIN. That is what pisses me off now is that he suddenly finds a VIN there and verifies it as original. It was not there so obviously it was stamped there after I sold the car.

Danny, since you stated over and over "Jerry checked by the filter" did you check there as well or only Jerry?

1718

Restoration / Re: Four piston caliper re-building, stripping and painting

« on: December 07, 2012, 11:41:39 PM »

Dave, not sure what might have happened from sitting but my gut feels not much. Being stainless they would not be rusting and would not think there would be a seal issue but as you stated it for sure should be checked. If I remember correctly those halfs are torqued at 90 ft lbs. When I did out 68 4 piston I painted the halfs, then cleaned up the machined surfaces since they were machined after paint, and of course nice phosphated bolts (with no paint). I think you would be better off to glass bead the assy. first and then do you inspections, etc. vs. after due to making sure no debris containimated the internals. But again, no experience in that regard.
 

1719

General Discussion / Re: where can I send my water pump to get rebuilt

« on: December 02, 2012, 07:49:05 PM »

I used Chevy Cool's Ron Burke cell (480)-720-8000 8711 E Pinnacle Pinnacle Peak Road PMB 377, Scottsdale, AZ 85255  www.chevycool.com
One of the reasons, he comes to Carlilsle! Everyone of the others mentioned have excellent reputations so you cannot go wrong. Do a search as you can find a lot of info concerning this subject.

1720

Restoration / Re: Restoring Original Ball Joints

« on: November 29, 2012, 11:53:02 AM »

Update:

I just spoke to Brian Bair at Bair's Corvettes (www.bairs.com).

They have replacement boots for the original upper ball joints, part number 5093 for $6 each.  Brian advised that they normally remove the ball joint to replace the boot.  He said to carefully remove the ring, then replace the boot & put the ring back on.  Unfortunately, they don't have the ring or boots for the lower ball joints.

I also got a set of the threaded upper ball joint rivets from them, part number 5090C.  Brian advised that these are forged, grade 8 strength, and made in the USA.

Great info on the boots Jeff! For anyone, Bair's also will rivet in your ball joints for a reasonable amount. They do them for the Corvette gang all the time. You can even take them to Carlisle (they attend many events), drop them off, and just pay postage one way back to you. They did a pair for a friend a few months ago and look great!
Note: on the picture of the three ball joints, there were two different designs so the right one (repro-bubble top) would be a correct type design for earlier cars vs. later (mid year or so) 69's that used the step top type as shown by the low mileage and NOS type ball joint. 68's as far as I know all used the bubble top design.

1721

General Discussion / Re: 12 bolt backing plates

« on: November 29, 2012, 05:04:02 AM »

Will look for a better pic but here is one of our 68's rear backing plates and other than a normal clean & prepare for paint (no grinding) its untouched.

1722

Originality / Re: Does this 67 undercarriage look unrestored?

« on: November 29, 2012, 04:23:23 AM »

David, if you have pics of your car before and have worked to duplicate what you had one would think it would be a non issue. We all know there were lots of variation so put it back to what it was and don't look back. 

1723

Originality / Re: Identifying 1968 z28 oil pan

« on: November 29, 2012, 02:58:01 AM »

Jerry has it covered pretty good! Just adding some service replacement to orig. pics.
Note differences around the reinforcement hole plates between the orig vs. serv. replacement.
And the original supplied GM drain plug used on this particular pan.
Service replacement is the new black one





Our pans left & right side prior to install on motor and paint.

1724

Originality / Re: Speedo Cable Location

« on: November 12, 2012, 02:47:35 AM »

Is the transmission original to the car? If so which side of the transmission does the cable fasten to? Is there a hole in the tunnel for the cable clip to fasten the cable with? I don't know about this. I've never saw one like yours.

No Daniel, Darrell's car has no holes or clips in the tunnel area for the speedo.

1725

General Discussion / Re: Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals Show Nov 17 & 18 in Chicago

« on: November 10, 2012, 12:13:54 PM »

Steve, I talked to several people who attended last year and everyone said the show was just top shelf and amazing. Wish I could make it but unfortunately have other commitments, but plan on getting out there next year.
Anxious to hear and see pictures from this years show.