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Messages - 68camaroz28

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1651
General Discussion / Re: Please Verify
« on: March 18, 2013, 01:15:37 AM »
I do like the Black Stripe w/ Black Vinyl Stripe and Black Interior combo but I want to be as correct as possible and will go with the White Stripes, I want to be sure my PPG codes are correct for 1968 Camaro Z28, Thanks
I'm no paint expert but from the little I think I know having the current PPG paint code does not necessarily mean the color will be a correct match. I've seen differences between the results of Dupont and PPG paint codes for what was supposed to be the same color/same year. Hopefully a paint expert will chime in.

1652
Restoration / Re: Interior parts suppliers
« on: March 15, 2013, 11:49:54 PM »
I would consider having AL Knoch do the interior. They do a great job restoring the original dash pad and restored my original door panels and, bucket & rear seats. They (seats) look as great underneath as the top side.
And I think the prices are reasonable....

1653
Maintenance / Re: PCV question
« on: March 12, 2013, 04:37:35 PM »
Never hear or read much about these little items, so I thought I would ask.

Just wondering about the PCV's. What can be said about them? Are they all the same? Can you just put any old valve in place of the one that was installed at the factory? I noticed the ones on ebay today, the purple ones for the 69 Z28's, those are repro's but other then the color are they correct?


How about starter solenoids? I'm not even sure I have the original on my starter, number on it is 1114362, which needs a rebuild, but what is being used to replace a bad one? I know you can take them apart and put a new disc in and all that but what about the main body, how do you repair that? Is it possible?

Maybe I'm all wet but the purple PCV for 69 Z/28's whatever is a falsehood that has been promoted so much many believe it to be correct. The correct PCV back then was a spun valve and not crimped as the later early 70's design. They are hard to find and can be extremely expensive if one knows what they have. I just posted pics of an orig. vs the crimped design due to a recent PCV question in our build thread. Check it out!
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584&page=43

1654
Originality / Re: Solenoid number for 69 Z28
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:29:37 AM »
Gary, one of the more obvious things wrong with restored solenoids and some starter restorations is the solenoids bakelite end cap. It should have the delco remy embossed in the center and be black. Later versions had a brownish red look. One of the things a NCRS judge looks for!
 

1655
General Discussion / Re: Thank you 69Z28-RS
« on: March 12, 2013, 02:57:39 AM »
You might find some useful info with our 68Z restoration.
Have fun with the 68Z.....
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584

1656
General Discussion / Re: 68 z fuel pump gph
« on: March 12, 2013, 02:48:22 AM »
Don't the F.A.S.T. guys have to have a stock looking fuel pump/lines etc. and some of them are flying (10's).

1657
Restoration / Re: Older washer bottles
« on: March 10, 2013, 02:14:57 PM »
Try toothpaste or some other plastic cleaner/polish similar to what's used for headlight covers.  I have a tube of toothpaste with my car cleaners. I also use Novus plastic poliish products and confident they would remove but try the toothpaste first as its CHEAP. :)

1658
Restoration / Re: Older washer bottles
« on: March 09, 2013, 11:38:20 PM »
Hey give it a try but I tried bleach before and it did little if anything on our washer bottle. Keep in mind older service replacements are exactly like the originals (I could not find a thing different but my service replacement was obtained in the 80's). Not sure how newer service replacements are compared to originals. I think the original screens were brass so you might want to make one.

1659
General Discussion / Re: V0226DZ
« on: March 06, 2013, 12:34:21 AM »
For the original car a steal but for just adding a DZ too high IMHO. I'm thinking $3500 tops and I would not pay that but some do.

1660
Good thought!
I have never seen a radiator sell on ebay, What do you think it's worth?
Thanks for the input

Not sure but the tag alone would bring several hundred as the repro's are not correct. When you see a NOS RC15 rad cap go for over $500, well you get the idea. The more you break it down the more you could make. Not sure of what it might bring as you stated not many to see what they are bringing. Other words, sell the radiator and tag individually.

1661
You could sell the whole thing as mentioned or place in a car but its still just a small 302 small block (no killer). Big block small blocks are a different story. What I would at least review is piece it out to people that do have real cars and need certain things. Some of that stuff piece meal will bring huge money compared to selling as a unit. Example, the radiator & tag. You might be astonished to what piecing that out and selling on ebay will bring. Then use that money to buy something killer :)

1662
General Discussion / Re: Threaded hole to right of wiper motor?
« on: March 02, 2013, 01:48:02 AM »
It's a Zinc screw and you can find info in your 67 AIM under the U63 (radio) section.  Screw is a 9420152, a self tapping, 1/4-20 x 1/2", with indented head. Can be purchased @Corvette Central #192117 (same head marking as what our 68 had) and Paragon offers "RBW" screws #11189K, 7 screws for $5.00  67/68 Corvettes used these scews for radio ground straps and brake line clips.

1663
General Discussion / Re: Poll #2 - T-shirt back
« on: March 01, 2013, 04:32:02 AM »
Awhile back I did a drawing of possible idea for the Camaros.org and thought I would share it. I like the look of the font chevrolet used.
The .ORG seemed to stand out more in a different font. George
X2 I like that George.......Good on ya!

1664
Restoration / Re: 69 Z/28 Correct leaf springs, where to buy?
« on: February 28, 2013, 12:49:19 PM »
Eaton sells them, go to their website they are like a dollar each.


Yep, http://www.eatonsprings.com/tipinsertsreboundclipsubolts.html
Part #33C133 2"X2.5" oblong cup $0.95 each
Bad part is you will get nailed on shipping. Why HBC sells that kit and states the spacers are exact except for the nib I'm not sure.

1665
Originality / Re: Correct starter restoration
« on: February 28, 2013, 03:16:26 AM »
John, did you ever receive a reply from John Jr.?

Nope, he must be busy.

Thanks for trying John but found several quotes (info) from JohnP Jr while searching the NCRS discussion forum including the following: Per John Pirkle Jr, "All of the information Dad and I have collected(archives,pictures,and interviews with engineers and line workers from the early 50s through the early 80s) shows that the starter was painted as an assembled unit,so the rivets,pole shoe screws,etc.would also be painted.The solenoid was masked in some instances,so you saw both painted and plated units. I have seen NO credible evidence of starters delivered with an unpainted drive end or commutator end.There would be a greater possibility of a completely unpainted starter.Typical factory production was to paint the entire starter."  He also added "One of the assembly line workers we talked to started in starter assembly and later became a line supervisor.He told us that the starter was painted as an assembled unit(with solenoid)A protective "clip" was placed on the solenoid to keep it from getting painted.The starter was hung on a conveyor belt and run through a paint booth where it got a coat of black paint(semi-flat)He gave us some pictures from his time in the plant that supported his story.At times the clip got left off(leaving a painted solenoid)and at times a starter left the paint booth with no paint(due to a jammed gun, the need to pick your nose etc.) From a production stand point,this procedure makes sense,and the photographs he gave us are an excellent verification."  Info from this NCRS thread dated April2010  Additional paint info from JohnP Jr in another NCRS thread, "Not all the solenoids were painted black.They also could have been silver zinc plated I have photos of the assembly line in the late sixties with a protective clipon shield over the plated solenoid as the starter goes through the paint process. Dad has had several interviews with assembly line workers that confirms the photos information. We have not been able to determine any rhyme or reason as to why some were plated and some painted,or that the year has any bearing on which would occur."
Most interesting the statement of semi-flat Black as well....... I just checked my friends 68Z/28 survivor and the alum nose is painted black (not the solenoid) while his and others that I have checked (yes, extremely small population or random sample) seem to confirm the more satin black then any semi-gloss black but that might be a mute point???????

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