Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - rat pack

Pages: 1 ... 13 14 [15]
Restoration / Re: 1967 Camaro Pin Stripes
« on: July 03, 2007, 12:18:07 PM »
Check the assembly manual as it shows the correct width and location of the stripes. If you don't have one, I can post a copy of the page later today for you...........RatPack............

It is the white cloth covered wire with purple & orange tracers through it that goes from the fuse panel to the coil. If your harness has not been modified it will also be attached to the yellow wire going down to the starter. It is show in the AIM under the engine compartment wiring.......RatPack.........

General Discussion / Firewall pictures needed
« on: June 27, 2007, 03:56:48 PM »
My computer crashed the other day and I lost some pictures of firewalls that I was using for an article for the CRG. If you are restoring a 67-69 that is down to the bare hull, or even if you have a bare hull sitting around, I would like a picture of the firewall like the one below. I prefer pictures of cars with a light colored firewall and the subframe out of the way, but I will take what you have. If your firewall is black, or dark colored, please put masking tape behind any holes so they will show up better in the picture. Also if you or someone you know that has a Firebird, I will take pictures of them also. Any and all help is appreciated. The firewalls  I need pictures of are listed below. You can either post them here, send them by PM or email.......Thanks,    RatPack.........................

67 with a/c, with or without a Muncie
68 with a/c , with or without a Muncie, RS or non-RS
69 with a/c, with or without a Muncie, RS or non-RS
69 with or w/o a/c, but with RS and ZL2 air induction, Pace Car guys can help here

Restoration / Re: 68 Air Conditioning -Sealing
« on: June 25, 2007, 11:17:23 PM »
Mark, no the repro core supports do not have the dimples......RatPack........

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1967 11B with a 4N ?
« on: June 25, 2007, 06:13:12 PM »
I meant to say "it is best the car is a hot rod now", but anyway as for price, no bids speaks for itself. The seller is trying to get top dollar based on the first two lines in his ad:   "You are bidding on a super clean 1967 SS 396 bolero red camaro. It is a true SS and big block but non #ís matching engine and transmission." He is trying to profit from a fake trim tag, when he could remove it and probably bring the same money as he is wanting to get for the car with it in place. JMO..........RatPack........

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1967 11B with a 4N ?
« on: June 25, 2007, 04:50:01 PM »
Why would anyone do this? Because of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!! This car would be worth about 25-30% less than what his starting price is, without the 4N code on the tag. You don't need #'s matching drivetrain if that tag was legit. To the "novice" this tag would look like it is original to the car. This seller is trying to sell the car to someone that is not in the "know" on when the big block was actually put into production, as he himself "assumed" November was when they started building them. This is probably one of the better attempts to pass the tag off as original that I have seen in a while. What really hurts this car now is not knowing what it was originally. Even for the money the car is tainted without its original trim tag, best to hot rod the car now, then who cares what it was originally................RatPack..................

Originality / Re: Engine Pulley Alignment
« on: June 22, 2007, 01:05:15 PM »
Dan, they should be almost "dead on" in alignment with each other. DId everything align before the restoration? If so, then have you replaced any of the items that affect the alignment of the pulleys:  water pump or balancer?  Even though your engine requires a short water pump, there are differences in the hub height (or length) which could cause it not to align with the crank pulley, that is if you bought a new one from a local parts store. This is something I have run into over the years when having a problem with pulley alignment as those are usually found to be wrong.

As for the alternator alignment, that is pretty severe, almost a belt width. Can you post a picture showing how everything is mounted? That might help to see if there is anything possibly mounted incorrectly, or even possibly a bent bracket. There is an unrestored car here locally that I can look at tomorrow that would be the same as yours to see how it all goes together. The only difference is I think he has power steering, which really be that much different other than the crank pulley..............RatPack......................

Mild Modifications / Re: 15x8 & 15x10 best backspacing for 1968
« on: June 21, 2007, 03:20:24 PM »
Good deal, just now saw the post. That combo you chose actually works the best. 8) ............RatPack...........

That kit from Keisler is awesome! Check out the link below for the conversion done to a 69 Z-28 that I had here. This car had 39k original miles on it, unrestored, with a 4:10 gear. The entire install was bolt-in, no mods what-so-ever. The car would cruise on the highway at 70mph turning around 2k I believe. The best thing is you could use a stock shift knob and most would not know that it is a 5 or 6 speed...............RatPack.....................

Mild Modifications / Re: 15x8 & 15x10 best backspacing for 1968
« on: June 21, 2007, 03:08:18 PM »
T, I can help you with this later today. Right now I don't have access to the pictures of the two cars here to post. I can tell you one has 10" Cragar S/S wheels with 4.25" backspace with Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro 28 x 12.50 tires and no tire clearance problems. The other car has 8-1/2" Americans with 3-3/4" backspace, and is running 275/60 BFG T/A's. I think I may have some pictures of American 200s wheels (originals) 10" with 275/60 tires, and US Indy mags 8-1/2" wide, with M/T L60-15 Indy tires. One thing, you cannot run a wheel with more than 4.25" backspacing without getting into the inner wheelhouse. Suspension will also play a role into what hits or fits....................RatPack...............

Restoration / Re: Trim adhesive
« on: June 21, 2007, 11:56:21 AM »
If you are talking about weatherstrip adhesive, use black, that is what the factory used on all of the cars I have restored. I have a 69 here that has the original paint in the jambs and there are not any traces of any adhesive being used on the door weatherstripping, which is a first for me. Also the black is less noticeable if any of it "runs" out from the edges............RatPack..........

Maintenance / Re: Sending Unit / Fuel Gauge Reading Problem.
« on: June 21, 2007, 11:37:35 AM »
Guys I have found all of these problems to be very common with the reproduction sending units, especially the Corvex/Dynacorn (they are brothers) units. I have had to solder the lines to the ring, bend the float arms, etc. to no avail. There is really no cure for it except to have your original rebuilt or pay for the GM unit if it is still available for your application. Just recently the 68-9 single 3/8" line (no return line) GM unit has shot through the ceiling as for price, almost $175.00, if it hasn't been discontinued by now. Year One offers a great rebuild service for your originals, and its cost is cheaper than buying an NOS unit in some cases. Also I believe they have found a new vendor that makes them in stainless steel with the prices being along the same lines as the GM units.............RatPack.................

Pages: 1 ... 13 14 [15]