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Messages - rat pack

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Restoration / Re: Fisher Body Paint Shop
« on: December 31, 2008, 05:22:30 PM »
John, that is what I thought it was. Man those LOS built cars had lots of overspray. This 67 Z's floors were just about yellow. The sides of the tunnel were covered in body color. We didn't go back that heavy on the overspray, but maybe we should have?........ You know how the judges are at shows, they don't want what is correct, they want "pretty"....JK!....LOL!!!!    :P .............RatPack.............

Restoration / Re: Fisher Body Paint Shop
« on: December 31, 2008, 05:40:50 AM »
Rat Pack... I was  refering to buddy... I just wanted to see how much red overspray was on the bottoms of his floor pan plugs...
I wanted to see if it was consistant and the spray patterns similar to the red on the bottom of his car... I believe you are correct, it would only add confirmation.

Oh sorry about that.... I got your email and checked out those pictures. I will get with you in the next few days abot them. Thanks.

JohnZ, What is the color code of that car? Thanks, Cory
John, I too would like to know what the color of this car is? Thanks........RatPack......

Restoration / Re: Fisher Body Paint Shop
« on: December 29, 2008, 11:43:47 PM »
Yep DP90 is a good choice for durability and it is self-etching which eliminates a step. Be sure to do any bodywork that you need to before spraying that DP90.  We used DP90 on the bottom of the car I am doing now right after it was media blasted. Did the bodywork on the few dents and rust pits, then topcoated it with a sealer from Martin-Senour. I don't have the number off hand but I am heading to the body shop right now and I will get if for you later tonight. It dries to an eggshell finish and is waterproof once it hardens, unlike most primers. Good luck with your car!!!...........RatPack..........

Firstgen, done removed the drain plugs, but they were installed before the car was painted, they did have white/tan/orangish colored body sealant, they had lots of overspray on the inside of the car and some on the outside. My 68 was the same way. I think I have some pictures of them from inside the car, none from outside that I know of.....sorry.............

Restoration / Re: Fisher Body Paint Shop
« on: December 29, 2008, 03:36:48 PM »
Buddy, I have been researching this topic for years, but had put it on the back-burner for other topics until I read this post. Personally I have yet to see any 67 built in the LOS plant using red oxide primer as its base prime coat, and very few NOR built cars until 1969. What you are seeing in the picture of the floors on the car at Team Camaro is the body color overspray and not red oxide primer. I just sold an 01C LOS car that was red and the floors looked just like this one, covered in red body color not red oxide primer. The primers on that car were all greys: dark grey (black) base prime, with lt.grey being the topcoat sealer. Why I think most would think that this is red oxide primer is that when the red overspray of the body color hits the darker gray it will turn it an orangish/brown color from where it bites into the undercoat.  If the owner of that car waxed those red areas he would find it is body color. Red is the hardest body color to distinguish from red oxide primer in 67 & 68 is those reds had an orange tint to them more than the 69 Garnet Red.

As Mark stated above, usually the overspray on the floorpans of the LOS cars was heavy as compared to the NOR built cars, so the picture of the car on Team Camaro can be confusing. Another good place to look for the primer overspray is in the shock tower area. The picture below is from the 67 I am restoring now, it is an LOS built car and no red oxide primer used at any time. Take some pictures of the underside of your package tray area, but set your flash to use the "red eye" reducer so you do not get any harsh light reflections.  Doing this should show you the colors of primers used on your car. I had always thought that the topcoat sealer color had something to do with the final color of the car, and I am still leaving that option open. The first cars I have found with red oxide or "ruddy brown" primer/sealers to be predominantly used were in 69, but I have seen just as many with dark grey/black.  I do not totally agree with John's statement in the article that red oxide was the base primer, at least not for all years and both plants. I have seen more cars with dark grey (black) than any other color for its base primer in the first gen Camaros. 

To answer your latest question, the dark color is the primer surfacer first applied after the phosphating is done. What color is your car? Also what is the exact build date 02? ....................RatPack.............................

*** Anyone with an urestored car that has not had any restoration work to the undercarriage or floors other than being washed,  I would like some pictures for a future CRG article regarding this topic. Please send me a private message and I will give you my email address where to send the pictures to. All years of 1st gens are wanted, including Firebirds.

Originality / Re: T3 vs PowerBeam Headlamps in 67-69's
« on: August 25, 2007, 03:25:58 PM »
I noticed the 70 chevelles have the T-3 lamps and my 71 chevelle has the power beam lamps and also in a pic on the 71 chevelle dealer brochour the SS chevelle has them in the pic,so I would guess that 1971 was the first year for the power beams.

Ron, actually the 70 Monte Carlo was the first Chevrolet passenger car to get the Power Beams. My theory has been since Chevrolet switched to the Power Beams for the 70 model year, some late 69 Camaros would have them instead of the T3's. Jerry's answer surprised me about May built 69's possibly having the Power Beams.  I have found that just about all 1970 model Chevrolet cars that had the 2 headlamp system used the Power Beams,  there have been a few exceptions where T3's were found in early cars. The 70 Chevelle still used the T3's as did most of the GM carlines that had the same 4 headlamp system. Last week I looked at a low mile unrestored 70 Corvette and 3 of its lamps were T3's, the other was a Power Beam. The owner could not say whether the light was changed or not. I am not sure what the norm was for Corvettes though. JohnZ can shed some light on that one. So your 71 Chevelle will have the Power Beams..............RatPack...........................

BTW, John, I have epoxied every good T3 I have now so as not to get any air leakage into them. Thanks for the tip!............................

Restoration / Re: Replacement seat foam
« on: August 25, 2007, 03:09:05 PM »
There are a few manufacturers of the seat foam and only one that is really any good. New foam will definitely be thicker due to the many years of the old foam being compressed from the seat covers and someone sitting on the seat. You may have the wrong seat foam application for your car as it is different for each year and style of seat cover. I assume you are working on a 67 or 8 since you do not have the seat springs molded into your original foam, unless it is a very early 69.  I have a few sets of seat foam here for upcoming restorations, and none of them are as thick as yours. How about some more information as to where you bought the foam, your year of car, and whether it is deluxe or standard interior?......................RatPack..........................

Restoration / Re: 1967 Camaro Pin Stripes
« on: August 14, 2007, 12:34:01 PM »
What Kurt is referring to is the D90 hockey sticks & D96 pinstripe combo, plus the enlongated hockey stick going down to the fender extension. Generally you will not see the D90 hockey sitcks with the D96 pinstripe option, but it did happen. My old 69 Carolina Blue SS had both stripes, original paint. Same goes for the DX1 & D96 combo, but there is a 6cyl here locally with original paint Burnished Brown with the DX1 and pinstripes. As for the stripe continuing down to the fender extension, I have only seen a handful of cars done that way. I don't remember the build date exactly, but I had a Fathom Green SS with original paint on the right fender and extension, and the stripe was on the extension as seen in the ad above. As for the pinstripe being deleted, what about the Yenko cars? The picture of them in the holding lot shows a Hugger Orange car with the white pinstripes. Did he remove them when doing his sticker and emblem conversion? What about the other Style Trim COPO's he received, did they have the pinstripes when he received them? .....................RatPack.....................

General Discussion / Re: power steering overheating
« on: August 14, 2007, 11:58:29 AM »
One thing about the wrap on headers, it will void any warranty that the header manufacturer has. It keeps so much of the heat inside the headers it causes them to rust extremely fast from the inside out. Same goes for ceramic coating them, unless the company that does it coats the inside of them extremely well. I have had to replace the headers and headpipes on two cars within the past six months (customers cars) that had their headers and exhaust systems coated by "local" companies due to inferior quality. These systems were on the cars for less than a year, so you get what you pay for when it comes to coatings.  I sent mine to Jet Hot in Georgia which are on my 68 bb Camaro now, and I watched the pipe temps decrease over 150 degrees from my headers that were not coated before.

Also I ended up going from the Hooker Super Competition headers to the regular Competition headers as the drivers side seemed to clear the power steering box a little better, not much but there was defiinitely more room than the earlier set........RatPack......................

General Discussion / Re: camaro/ firebird fenders
« on: August 09, 2007, 05:49:18 PM »
The notches for the outer bumper brackets are not the only differences. The holes for the upper header panel are not present on Firebird fenders, and the shape of the opening where the headlight bezels fit is also a little different.  Another thing is the mounting tabs for the headlight buckets are in a different location on a Firebird. DO NOT buy them if you want to use them on a Camaro, they cannot be made to fit without heavy modification............RatPack..............

General Discussion / Re: 1969 am-fm radio
« on: August 03, 2007, 03:26:37 AM »
No you cannot get the 69 radio to fit the 67-8 dash, and vice-versa. The nosepieces are shaped to the fit the dash for each year................RatPack.....................

Mild Modifications / Re: Tall big block valve covers in a 67 camaro
« on: August 02, 2007, 02:52:39 AM »
The Detroit Speed & Engineering wiper motor is expensive: $299.00. Do you really need stud girdles? Unless you plan on racing your car there should be no use for them and then you can run stock height valve covers using a 5/16" gasket or thicker. I have the Comp Cams Magnum full roller rockers on my car with the stock valve covers, and the only reason I run the thick gasket is to clear the lock nuts (poly locks). You can run aftermarket old school M/T or Moon aluminum short valve covers with a stock gasket and they will clear the nuts with no problem. To run stud girdles you have two choices, no wiper motor, which was the only choice in the past, or use DSE's wiper setup. It does work great, used them on two cars here locally. Below is a link to their website............RatPack.......................

1969 - Orphans / 9N514986 327 for sale on
« on: July 28, 2007, 03:06:03 PM »
I just saw this posted on The block is from that Camaro, heads & intake are wrong...........RatPack.............

General Discussion / Re: Split rotors
« on: July 25, 2007, 09:29:11 PM »
Sam, as always, Thank you! I had taken the wheels off for a show that I was getting ready for, and took that shot of the rotor for some reason. Here it is a few minutes later.................RatPack...................

General Discussion / Re: Split rotors
« on: July 25, 2007, 04:32:06 PM »
I used the current 1-pc rotors on my car as my originals were too far gone to turn. Since I wasn't worried too much about 100% correctness and more worried about safety, I chose the 1-pc rotors. They work great with no clearance issues..............RatPack......................

Originality / Re: steering wheel
« on: July 25, 2007, 04:15:36 PM »
Eastwood sells a complete kit with the book for under $50.00 and I have used it numerous times.  Check out the link below.You have one of the hardest ones to repair because of the grooves. If you don't want to take the time to restore it, give Shawn a call at Camaro Central in KY. He had a mint wheel for sale a few months ago at a show, he may still have it. His number is 800-990-1969....................RatPack........................

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