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31  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Correct cowl hood relay screw on: January 13, 2012, 09:34:33 PM
68Z28Project is correct.  AMK is probably one of the best resources we have for restoration hardware but it may not be identical to the original hardware originally installed.  Here is a picture of AMK's screw #B-120049, 8-18 x 3/8 Zink plated that I purchased for this application.  It is a plane head without the "C" marking RPOZ11 shows.  It possible that there were multiple hardware suppliers for this application and variation can be expected. 

RPOZ11, is this the original screw?  What is the plant and build date of your car?

Does anyone else have an unrestored or original screw for this cowl induction relay application? If you do, please post a picture and note the plant and build date of your car.

Thanks!
32  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Ground Strap Question on: January 13, 2012, 09:10:10 PM
IZRSSS,

Here is a pic of the firewall to sub frame strap.  My '69 Z28 is a Norwood built first week of May (05A) with a U79 "Blue Light" AM/FM Stereo, 4-speaker system with the multiplex-amplifier, shown on page 445 of the AIM.  I purchased the car with about 45K original miles and restored it.  It had all (4) ground straps which I still have.  I attempted to clean and reuse the straps but they did not clean up to like new condition so I replaced them.  The capacitor (fan blower noise suppressor) in the picture is detail #2 shown on page 439.  Note that it states “ALL EXCEPT C60” for air conditioning and includes the body to frame ground strap.

I also included a picture of the Inner Fender Well (skirt) to Frame strap shown for an L-6 engine car on page 441.  My car is obviously a V-8 car but it did originally include all (4) ground straps.  The "E" head screw with star lock washer was on the strap in frame position so I reused it.  All the other screws that go into sheet metal are replacements offered by AMK, #B-11099, 1/4-14 x 5/8” screws, Zink plated with a "D" mark.  These are the #9420415 called out in the AIM.  Note that the screws that go into the frame are #9420152.  I can not be sure if the “E” mark screw I have is original.

Does anyone have an original U79 Radio car build about the same time period as mine with the original ground strap screws still in place in the frame positions?  Are they like the “E” head screw?  I would love to see a picture!

Thanks.

Dave
33  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Power Steering Pump Problems - bleeding air from the pump or damaged pump? on: January 13, 2012, 07:55:12 PM
I fixed my power steering (PS) pump problem.  A tech tip from Cardone was helpful, which is a major US manufacturer of new and reman pump and various other automotive components. 

Here is a link to the tech tip I followed to fix my issue: http://www.cardone.com/tech-help/steering/how-it-works-best-practices/steering-system-flushing-use-the-buddy-system

Before removing and replacing my pump (which worked prior to removing it before pulling and rebuilding the engine this past summer) I thought I would try Cardone's PS pump flush process then bleed the system again.  I followed the flushing process and replaced the PS belt to make it was snug, and my PS now works great.

I did not have a "buddy" to assist as the Cardone's tech tip suggested, so I had to take my time to do the process solo.  To flush the system and remove any trapped air in my PS gear box, I followed this process.  It is similar to the process that Boston14 and Ed have offered above.  Removed the PS pump return hose from the pump and directed it into a catch pan.  Quickly after pulling the hose pushed a rubber plug over the outlet tube on the PS pump reservoir.  It is a messy process so you have to prepare.  I lined my front suspension area under the pump with a plastic trash bag and some paper towels to catch and absorb the leaking fluid.  Top off the PS reservoir level to within about 1” from the top of the reservoir.  Disconnect the coil wire to prevent the engine from starting, and crank it for about 10 seconds.  Check and top off the PS fluid level as needed.  Check the fluid in catch pan to see if it is dirty or discolored. 

I did not get much drainage while cranking the engine because I did not want to continue to crank the engine for extended periods while turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock to pump the fluid thru the PS gear box.  After cranking the engine, I left the key in the ON position so I could turn the wheel lock-to-lock 2 – 3 times which pumped and flushed the old fluid out of the PS gear box.  I continually checked and topped off the fluid level in the reservoir, then cranked the engine again for about 10 seconds, followed by rotating the steering wheel lock-to-lock 2 -3 times.  I followed this flushing process 3 – 4 times which completely flushed the PS gearbox and reservoir of the old fluid until clean fluid was observed in the catch pan.  Drain and wipe the catch pan clean each cycle to help determine if the fluid drained is clean. You may use up to a quart of PS fluid during the flushing process so it wise to have two quarts on hand.  You will learn on Cardone’s website that not all PS fluids are created equal so buy a quality fluid.  PS fluids are not regulated with API Service ratings like motor oils so chose your fluid wisely and do your homework.

Once you verify the fluid is clean from flushing process, reinstall the PS return hose the reservoir and make sure the holes clamps on both ends of the holes are tight so they do not suck in air.  If your hose is old, hard, and brittle, is wise to replace it. 

Now follow the bleeding process as outline in the Chevrolet Service Manual which involves lifting the front wheels off the pavement.  Reconnect the coil wire and verify the PS fluid level is at the correct level (some where between the COLD and HOT level on the cap stick) Start the engine for only about 2 – 3 seconds then top off the fluid level if necessary.  I stated my car again for only about 5 -10 seconds and the verified the fluid level was correct. It is critical that you do not rotate the pump and suck the reservoir dry of fluid and damage the pump.

Start and run the engine at 1500 RPM (temporarily set your idle speed if necessary to maintain 1500 RPM) and then SLOWLY rotate the sheering wheel lock-to-lock several times.  Do not hold the wheel against the stop for extended period as this only generate high pressure in the system and does not help the bleeding process.  Simply rotate the steering wheel slowly toward the locks to get full gear box rotation. Shut off the engine and allow the PS fluid to settle and verify the level on the cap stick.  Check for bubbles in the fluid or foaming.  Foaming in the fluid may be a sigh of other problems that you can read about on the Cardone website. Restart the engine and follow the bleeding process 2 – 3 more times, shutting off the engine in between the bleeding cycles.  Always make sure the fluid level is maintained.

After bleeding is completed, lower the car with the front wheels on the pavement, preferably a smooth garage floor.  Start the engine and rotate the wheels under the resistance of the pavement and you should experience smooth PS action lock-to-lock with no squealing or grinding sounds.  If you continue to have PS system issues, it may require bleeding again so be patient. 

This process helped me and I hope you find it helpful.
34  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Bucket Seat Back teather cable on: January 09, 2012, 09:00:55 PM
Hi Guys,

Here are some pictures of an original replacement tether cable I have on my '69. My original was missing, so I purchased a very clean used original.  I lightly wire brushed the hardware on my pedestal grinder then waxed them to give some protective coating. The hardware is original for reference.

Good luck with your projects to reproduce the cables.

Dave
 
35  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Power Steering Pump Problems - bleeding air from the pump or damaged pump? on: January 02, 2012, 09:41:21 AM
Thanks Guys. 

My pulley does not have paint in the V-groove but my used belt has stretched and may not be tight enough. It is a Quanta restoration belt (item #29-B-453) with the GM emblem and part number 3848263 embossed in the belt.  It looks good for show and originality, but I’ll replace it to test for a slipping belt issue.  I’ll perform the bleeding again as Boston14 and Ed have suggested.   I have performed this bleeding method twice but I’ll do it again slowly with time in between the bleeding cycles.

I dissassembled my original PS pump yesterday to see how the pump works.  I took some pictures and I’ll post them sometime soon for reference.  My original reservoir has some dents and rust pits in it and not in “show quality” condition, and it leaked from the o-ring seal between reservoir and pump.  I buying a new PS Pump Seal kit, and if the problems persist with the PS pump I have on the car, I'll swap the pumps in my good reservoir, bleed, and test the original pump.

Below is an informative link regarding the flow and pressure requirements for N44 Z28 fast ratio PS pumps.  It includes modification needed if you purchase an aftermarket remanufactured PS pump that may not be calibrated correctly for a Z28 with N44.  Last summer, I performed these modifications on the pump I have on my car now, and the power steering worked flawlessly up until I recently pulled the pump and hoses during the engine rebuild, and detailing of the pulleys, brackets, etc.  Prior to making these modifications, the PS would intermittently squeal and loose power steering if I made a parallel parking maneuver.  Maybe this is all due to a slipping belt!

I’ll keep you posted.

Link: http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_steering.htm#Steering


Dave
36  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Power Steering Pump Problems - bleeding air from the pump or damaged pump? on: December 31, 2011, 10:15:16 AM
I recently rebuilt the 302 in my 69Z.  During the process, I removed the power steering (PS) pump and hoses, and all the engine pulleys, misc brackets, etc. were stripped and repainted.

I installed the PS pump and connected the hoses, filled the PS pump reservoir and bleed the reservoir by hand rotating the pulley counter clockwise.  The reservoir was topped off to about 2" from the top, or somewhere between the "cold" and "hot" level marks on the cap stick. 

When I fired the engine for the first time for the 20 - 30 minute break-in period, I failed to only run the engine for a few second and check the PS level, as I was concerned about a small fuel line leak, checking the timing, and setting the carb idle to 2000 - 2500 RPM.  When I shut the engine off after the break-in, and checked the PS fluid level, it was very low but the reservoir still had about ½” - 1" of fluid.  I topped off the fluid level and continued the PS steering system bleeding process with the front tires off the ground and turning the steering wheel back and forth between the locks with the engine running at 1500 RPM.

The engine runs great but I may have damaged the PS pump.  The pump works fine with the tires off the ground but it squeals and intermittently loose power steering if I turn the wheel with the tires on the ground.  I bled the pump and system again but this did not help.  It helps if the motor RPM is increased while turning the steering wheel but the problem still exists.

The PS belt has stretched and the pump bracket is adjusted near the end of the slot.  The belt is snug but not tight, with about ½” or less up and down movement midway between the pulleys.   The pump worked fine before the engine was pulled for the rebuild. I’ll try a new belt but I am not hopeful this will cure the problem.

Could there still be air in the system?

Is it possible the PS pump rotor or housing was scored during my engine break-in creating a pressure leak path?

Per the maintenance manual, a V-8 Camaro with the variable ratio needs 1350 – 1450 p.s.i. pump pressure to function properly.  I don’t have an in-line pressure gage to check the pump pressure as outlined in the service manual.

If the pump is damaged, can it be rebuilt or should it be replaced?


 
37  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Engine Detailing "Tricks"? on: December 31, 2011, 08:59:46 AM
lakeholme,

I use Fantastic on the floor board bottom side painted surfaces to remove any stubborn dirt and any grease splatter from the universal joints, etc.  I then wipe the surface with a dry towel or t-shirt and it has not harmed the painted finish.  Test a spot first to make sure it does not harm or burnish your painted surface.  I don't use the Fantastic on the items that I have previously applied a grease film to.  This is where I would use a detailing brush, tooth brush, and compressed air to remove any debris.  Rubbing the part with the grease rag tend to also clean it.

For under the hood, I use compressed air to blow away dust and dirt, followed by Meguiar's Mist & Wipe Detailer if needed, and then wipe with an old soft baby dipper or a mirco fiber towel.  On rubber and plastic parts, I like to use Meguiar's Supreme Shine Hi-Gloss Protectant.  I spray the protectant on an old athletic sock then rub the area followed by wiping the item or surface with a t-shirt so the item does not look too shiny.  I use the protectant on the interior vinyl which does not leave a greasy film.

If you are concerned about using these tips on your Camaro, practice these tips to detail your wife’s car first.  With all those that-a-boy points, you’ll get to spend an entire weekend under the hood and chassis of your Camaro!

sdkar,

Thanks for the links on detailing.
38  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Engine Detailing "Tricks"? on: December 29, 2011, 10:46:44 AM
A tip I use to detail items on my 69 Camaro Z28 such as bolts and hardware, brackets, and and any item that is plated such as the hood hinges, hood catch, etc., is to wipe them with a light smear of bearing grease then wipe them with a shop towel or paper towel.  I keep the same wipe down shop rag, 1" paint brush, and a tooth brush in a zip-lock bag.  During my spring oil change (typically in March in prep for the spring and summer show season), I also detail under the hood, chassis, and floor boards (bottom side of the car) with products like Fantastik and Mequiar's Quick Mist & Wipe Detailer. 

I got this tip from some guys who restore and maintain Ford Model A’s which had many unpainted parts.  The grease applies a light barrier to rust, and keeps the item looking almost new. 

For an example, the rear leaf springs were originally heat treated bare steel, the drive shafts tubes were plain steel, and the steering box was plain cast iron. I use compress air to blow any debris off the leaf springs and steering gear box then use my “grease detail kit” to brush and wipe the springs, steering gear box, drive shaft, etc.  I finished my Camaro restoration in 2000 and the springs, steering gear box, and drive shaft still look very good.

By the way, I do DRIVE my car to local shows (it the weather is dry) but trailer it to out of town shows.

Have a Happy New Year...and happy detailing!
39  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Correct Finish on Clutch Shaft Bracket & Clutch Shaft on: June 22, 2011, 08:54:33 PM
I was able to complete restoring the bracket and Z-Bar as recommended using Eastwood's metal blacking kit to give the part a gray phostpate color.

I pulled my original clutch Z-Bar to compare with the repro and I found the following slight differences.  My original bar was very pitted from rust and not worth restoring.  The repro bar OD measures 1.175" with a wall thickness of .150"; the original Z-Bar OD measures 1.103" with a wall thickness of .122".  These differences become apparent when the bars are set side-by-side, otherwise, the repro Z-Bar is a nice, near exact reproduction.

Question: Did the original clutch Z-Bars use a grease zerk fitting or a cap as I have shown.  I don't recall where I read that a cap was used, and know that Paragon Corvette Reproductions sells the cap which is where I purchased my cap.

Thanks
40  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Correct Finish on Clutch Shaft Bracket & Clutch Shaft on: June 17, 2011, 05:36:37 PM
Thanks Jerry & Jon.

I know what I'll be doing this weekend!  Smiley
41  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Correct Finish on Clutch Shaft Bracket & Clutch Shaft on: June 13, 2011, 08:26:56 PM
What is the correct finish on the clutch shaft bracket #3932760, Detail #9 shown in the AIM Page 112, Section 7 covering the clutch shaft and push rod?  This is the bracket that attaches to the outside of the frame. 

I stripped the paint from my original bracket (shown in the picture) and it is very pitted from rust indicating that it was originally plain steel, plated or poorly painted.  I show the bracket side-by-side with a reproduction bracket and there are differences. The original bracket is stamped from slightly thicker material, about .216" vs. .195", and the second picture shows that the original bracket is formed with a slight bend down the approximate center of the bracket to lie against the slight curve in the frame.  The repro bracket is flat.

Has anyone purchased a high quality reproduction bracket that matches the original?

Also, if I recall, the finish on the Clutch Shaft, Detail #1 was dark gray phosphate plated, correct?

Thanks. 

 
42  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: More Follow-up on Engine Overspray - specifically 302 Z28s on: May 26, 2011, 08:26:57 PM
Interesting JohnZ, thanks for the input.  Do you know how they judge this on Corvette's?

43  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: More Follow-up on Engine Overspray - specifically 302 Z28s on: May 25, 2011, 07:39:42 PM
By the way, here are some pictures of overspray on the back and back corner on a 69Z aluminum intake.  This is a friend’s survivor, late Norwood 10D build 69Z that has been in his family since new.   

Notice the hint of Chevy Orange on the back of the intake area near the distributor hold down clamp, which was not painted orange.

I have run across other discussions on CRG about overspray on the base of the distributor and hold down clamp.  I recall JohnZ mentioning that a “coffee can” was used to mask the distributor from the Chevy Orange, which appears to be the situation with the my pictures.

Does anyone have pictures of engine overspray on a recent restoration that has been through judging?  How did it judge on this issue? 
44  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / More Follow-up on Engine Overspray - specifically 302 Z28s on: May 25, 2011, 07:24:50 PM
I recently pulled my engine in my 69 Z to fix some oil leaks and freshen up the paint.  This naturally led me to check CRG for the latest on engine detailing.

I have a follow-up "engine overspray" question on the fuel pump mounting plate (ref. the AIM, Sec C6, page 99, covering the fuel pump and pump to carb fuel line installation).  Since the fuel pump plate was installed at the Chevrolet Final Assembly plant, on engine dress-up line, is it safe to assume the fuel pump mounting plate was not painted Chevy Orange?  Was it painted black or left natural steel?

Here are pictures of the plate from my 302.  The inside edge shows signs it was black at one time, but I don't know if this was from a previous owner's work on the engine.


45  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Rear main seal leak on: April 26, 2011, 10:54:23 AM
JohnZ,

So would you recommend the Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal #2912 if the journal is fine with no warn grooves?

Anyone else have a good experience with this seal?

My '69 302 was rebuilt about 10 years ago and only has been driven about 2000 miles.  I have developed a rear main seal leak, and a leak from the timing chain cover to oil pan joint.  I used a Fel-Pro blue one piece oil pan seal, but it just started a slight oil leak. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan side of the seal rather than the timing chain side or seal joint.

I guess it’s time to pull the engine, reseal and detail it again.

Thanks,

Dave
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