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Messages - Dave69x33

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346
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: April 07, 2009, 09:46:07 PM »
I set my initial at 12 deg BTDC.

I have a Sears brand dial back timming, and an older Sun fixed timing light.  Last time I checked, they both read the same initial.

I'll check them both again.


347
So far now for 3+ years, I have had no problems with the conversion to the Pertronik system.

But, based on this discussion topic, I am now half spooked! :-\ 

I going to find a clean used points distributor to keep on had as a spare.  I cut my resister wire and ran a “full time” 12 wire to the Pertronik system.  Swapping back to a points distributor can prematurely burn a standard points set over time, but I only need to lip home (or to the trailer) until I can get the problem corrected.

Has anyone else experience module failures with the newest Pertronik systems? 

I recall Jerry@CHP mentioning he has had  8 - 10 customer failures over the years.

Dave

348
Restoration / Re: steering column
« on: April 07, 2009, 09:14:31 PM »
revdan49,

I have been traveling out of own on business for the past three weeks.  This Easter Holiday weekend I will have some time to get a picture of the area on the column you are referring to.  I now recall the area you are talking about.

Dave

349
Restoration / Re: steering column
« on: March 24, 2009, 12:56:46 AM »
revdan49,

Unfortunately, I no longer have the old column.  I need to check but I am not sure I can get access to the area you need a picture of with the column in the car.




350
I have to agree with Jrschev regarding switching to electronic ignition.  I installed the Pertonix Ignitor II Electronic Ignition conversion kit #91181, and the black Pertronix Flame-ThrowerII low resistance 0.6 ohm coil several years ago.  I noticed an immediate improvement in starting and drivability of the car.  Plus, the Pertonix unit is hidden.  With a little work, you can modify and retain the original ignition wiring so it looks stock.  See picture.

For a little added benefit, I modified a set of Delco 8mm spark plug wires for a 1988 GM/GMC 5.7L Truck.  These plug wires utilize the "spark plug" style terminals on the cap.  However, I modified the wires to push into the standard cap and replaced the boots to straight original style boots.  I had an 88 GMC years ago which is where got the idea.  The plug wires route in the same positions as the original plug wires and they look very stock.  I have not had good luck with the reproduction plug wires so I like the GM 8mm wire set for better reliability.

This is my "driving set-up".  When I attend a “points show” or Camaro Nat's, I swap back to my #270 coil and correct NOS cap and plug wires.  I keep the correct wires on the NOS cap so it's ready to go and an easy swap.






351
Restoration / Re: steering column
« on: March 22, 2009, 02:13:28 AM »
revdan49,

Sorry I missed your request.  Attached are pics of the tilt column from my 69Z.  When I restored my car over 10 years ago, I did not have a digital camera at the time and took all 35 mm pictures.  So the attached pics are digital pics of my print pictures. 

I was going to rebuild my original column, but I was money ahead buying a rebuilt original unit versus buying the parts and special tooling required to rebuild my original.

I hope this helps.



352
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: March 22, 2009, 01:48:21 AM »
I must second JohnZ's experience with the B28 vacuum advance can.  I recently switched from a B1 to a B28, and it pulls between 17 - 19 degrees advance at idle with my 10 - 11" Hg. idle vacuum.  I had to limit it to 16 degrees with an adjustable vacuum advance limiter cam.  The B28 is rated to yield 8 distributor (16 crank) degrees at 5.75 – 8” Hg, but I am sure they can vary.

L78 Steve...Is it possible that something is hanging up the vacuum plate?  Maybe your the B28 is not functioning properly.

Last night I made the following adjustment to my Holley carb and road tested the car today.  See my base line listed earlier in this discussion topic. 

  • Primary side - changed the jets from #68 to #72, and retained the #65 power valve.
    Secondary side - retained the #76 jets and replaced the power valve block off plug with a #65 power valve.
    Reinstalled the vacuum secondary check ball.
    Readjusted the idle mixture screws for a max vacuum between 10 - 11” Hg.
Results: Great throttle response and a noticeable increase in power thru the RPM range to red line!   :o  Making the modifications (from the stock set-up) to connect the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum and pull in the vac advance at idle has really made a difference.  These modification really help to make the 302 come alive!   ;)  The only issue now is after I drive and park the car, I smell a hit of gas so I must be a bit on the rich side. Does anyone else get this smell?   ???  I may try #70 jets on the primary side next.

Attached is a picture showing the simple swap between the A.I.R. hose and vacuum advance hose lines (as JohnZ recommended).  The vacuum advance is now connected to a full vacuum signal from the t-fitting at the base of the carb, and the A.I.R. hose is connected to the ported source on the carb.  The A.I.R. line was blocked with a ¼” section of a plastic golf tee so it actually now a vacuum plug.  The lines are easily swapped if necessary for a car show.

I still need to dial in the centrifugal advance curve and I should be all set.

353
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: March 19, 2009, 11:55:42 PM »
Thanks JohnZ.  I'll get in touch with Jerry MacNeish.

Dave

354
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: March 18, 2009, 11:28:26 PM »
I wanted to follow up on this discussion forum covering the “B28” vacuum advance and centrifugal advance mapping.  I need tips about recurving my distributor and fine tuning the carb.

My ‘69 302 Z28 is basically stock except with a ’70 LT1 solid lifter cam, flat top pistons, so I estimate my C.R. somewhere between 10 - 10.25:1.  I am using stock exhaust manifolds and exhaust system, and running a 180 degree thermostat.

The distributor is a std. Delco points style distributor converted to Pertonix electronic ignition and Pertonix Flame-Thrower II high output coil.  The distributor was recurved about 10 years ago with aftermarket centrifugal weights and light silver springs, but I don’t know the brand.  I recently changed the vacuum advance unit from a “B1” to a “B28” and mapped the advance curve.  A black advance stop busing is installed limiting centrifugal advance to 24 degrees.

I recently gutted the A.I.R. smog pump and it now functions as an idler pulley and blocked off the air delivery tubes  The vacuum advance hose is now connected to direct manifold vacuum, at the T-fitting located at base of carb were A.I.R. diverter valve vacuum hose was originally connected.

The carb is the stock 780 Holly, List 4053, with 68/76 primary/secondary jets, #85 primary power valve and block off plug in the secondary PV side.  The #85 PV was selected to opening at 8.5” Hg, or about 1” to 1-1/2” Hg below the manifold vacuum reading.  I using the #28 pump discharge nozzle, and the white (weakest) vacuum secondary spring and omitted the check ball.  I run 93 octane pump gas.


Results:
My set-up was with the smog pump active and the vacuum advance connected to the “stock” ported vacuum source, but now connected to full manifold vacuum as stated above.  Initial timing is set at 12 deg. BTDC with a +/- 0.5 degree of flutter with the centrifugal advance secured to not to influence timing.  Idle vacuum is 9 – 10” Hg and idle mixture optimize to maintain 9 - 10” Hg.  The B28 vacuum advance adds about 16 – 18 "crank" deg of advance, which I can adjust with a vacuum timing limiter cam from Crane Cams.  Idle RPM is set to spec., at about 900 RPM.

With the centrifugal advance active, the advance it is coming in too early and causing a jumpy +/- 1.0 deg or more of timing flutter at idle.  The springs are too weak and need to be replaced.  Idle must be adjusted down to 600 RPM to prevent centrifugal advance from coming in.  At 900 RPM, 9 deg’s of advance results, checked with a dial back timing light.  The centrifugal advance map curve yielded the following degrees of advance at the corresponding RPM’s, checked by dialing the timing light back to the 12 deg initial and recording the advance: +9* @ 900, +12* @ 1100, +16* @ deg at 1300, +19* @1500, +22* @ 1700, and all in at  +24* @ 1900.  Thus total advance of 36 deg (12 init. + 24 cent.) is all in by a very early 1900 – 2000 RPM.  The overall advance totals 54 deg at cruise conditions, adding the 18 deg of vacuum advance. I may limit vac advance to 16 to get overall advance down to 52 deg.  I fear engine ping or detonation during the hot summer season.

Throttle response is noticeably better. During aggressive 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear acceleration runs, the 302 power really pulls hard after 3000 – 3500 RPM to redline.  At this point I can not tell if the power band is natural to my engine, the current distributor timing map, or the mapping of the Holley carb jets and secondaries.  While in park and idling, stabbing the throttle to wide open, there is occasional lean condition back fire thru the carb, but otherwise no noticeable stumble.  Changing the Holley primary jets from 68 to 72 will hopefully cure this lean back fire.

Questions: 
If the goal is to have a weight/spring combination that does not come on too early, but is “all in” by 2800 – 3000, what is a recommend source for centrifugal weights and springs? 

What color spring or spring combination and advance map is recommended, or found to be ideal in the 302? 

The MSD Ignition web-site does a good job showing various advance curves with their distributor, limit bushings, and spring combinations but I am not sure if or how this translates to my stock distributor.  I have read mixed results about the quality of aftermarket weights, and recommendation to stay with GM weights.  I am not having much luck finding advance bushing and advance kits locally for the old style points distributor.

What Holley Carb vacuum secondary spring is recommended?

Should the vac secondary check ball be retained or omitted?

My goal is to find the combination of parameters for the ignition and carburetor yielding optimum performance and drivability, yet retain the stock look of my 302.

Please excuse my long discussion but I suspect there are others with my same questions and goal in mind, yet have experimented with a set-up that has yield good results.

Thanks and your recommendations will be appreciated!



355
General Discussion / 2010 Camaro to Pace the Indy 500 this year!
« on: February 27, 2009, 01:55:46 AM »
Hello Camaro Friends,

I live in Indianapolis, and great news was released today from the Indianapolis Motor Speedway on the local TV new broadcasts - The 2010 Camaro will be the Pace Car for the 93rd running of the Indy 500! 

For the complete story and pictures of the unveiling, visit the following link to Indy's web site: http://www.indy500.com/news/13240/All-New_Chevrolet_Camaro_To_Pace_93rd_Indianapolis_500.

The following are some “Cliff Notes” from the news release issued today by the Speedway.  I am sure you will start to see and read more about the 2010 Indy Pace Car in the coming weeks in automotive publications.

"2009 marks the fifth time the Chevrolet Camaro has been selected to pace the Indianapolis 500 (1967, 1969, 1982, 1993, 2009).  It will be the 44th time a General Motors vehicle has paced "The Greatest Spectacle in Racing," with 20 by a Chevrolet. Powered by the 6.2-liter LS3 all-aluminum Chevy V-8, the all-new 2010 Camaro produces 426 horsepower at 5,900 rpm and 420 lb-ft of torque at 4,600 rpm. It features a Tremec six-speed manual transmission and 3.45 axle ratio".

I can't wait for Indy!!

356
Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 heater hose bracket
« on: February 04, 2009, 02:05:45 AM »
After consulting with Larry Christensen (well known 1st Gen Camaro restoration specialist), the self-tapping "RBW" 1/4-20 x 1/2" self-tapping screw is a common screw for this application, and considered correct for judging purposes.  A very close RBW screw alternative is available from Paragon Corvette Reproductions, Kit #11189K, for about $5.  The screws in this kit are not self tapping but a good alternative.

JohnZ...is your original screw for this application still on your 69?

Does anyone else out there have a survivor 69 with the original screw or wire tie strap still intact?  If so, please post a picture and let use know the build date and VIN on your car, to give us an idea on the assembly time frame of your car. 

Many cars have this original screw missing or replaced due to the frequency of removal for belt and/or alternator replacements over the years, or due to the threads in the bracket becoming striped. 

Thanks,

Dave

357
Originality / Re: 69 Z28 power steering
« on: January 28, 2009, 02:38:18 AM »
According Michael Antonick's Camaro White Book, there were 141,607 of the 243,085 '69's made with the N40 PS, and 2161 with the N44 quick ratio PS.

Prehaps someone can confirm this?

358
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: January 09, 2009, 12:58:25 AM »
Thanks JohnZ. 

Your recommendation on the A.I.R. pump system is what I was hoping to do as a winter project this year.  The tip to use #10 x 1/2" flat head screws is a good idea to keep the hot gases out of the A.I.R. tubes so they do not discolor.  That and why I was thinking about cutting off the extension tubes and pinching the tips closed, but I like your idea using the screw in place of the tubes.

Thanks again!

Dave



359
General Discussion / Re: 1969 302 DZ valve adjustment question.
« on: January 07, 2009, 01:28:00 AM »
Yes...ideally running and hot but what a mess under the hood of a restored 302 engine bay.  :-\ 

I used the method defined on the CRG site to do one side at time not running.  It worked out for me.  ;)


360
Maintenance / Re: 69 1111480 distributor
« on: January 07, 2009, 01:20:08 AM »
JohnZ,

To clarify - you removed the diverter valve signal hose from this T-fitting and rerouted the distributor vacuum advance hose in its place, correct?

Is your diverter valve signal vacuum hose now inactive, or what did you do with this hose?

Related to this topic, I recall from a previous discussion topic, where some people are now internally modifying the A.I.R. pump (during pump restoration) to defeat its function, yet retain the pump to function as an “idler pulley” to keep a stock look under the hood.  Thus, the diverter vacuum hose would serve no purpose other than for looks.  This hose could be internally blocked off and pushed into its original location. It’s tucked under the air cleaner and not visible to the casual observer.   Then for a “points” show, the two hose can be easily swapped back to their correct locations for judging purposes.

Does this sound feasible?  Am I forgetting anything?

If the A.I.R. pump is defeated but retained as described above, ideally, should the A.I.R. extension tubes be shorten and pinched closed to get them out of the exhaust air flow path?

P.S:  Sorry for belaboring this…this could be another topic.

Thanks in advanced for your input.


 

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