Topics

31

Originality / "B Body" decal on a 69 Window Sticker

« on: May 23, 2008, 02:12:36 AM »

This window sticker is one piece of a full complement of documentation that was passed on to the current owner of an all original, un-restored Norwood built, October 69 Z28.  The car has been in the owner's family since new and the current owner is the 2nd owner.

Why and when was this "B-Body" decal added to the window sticker?

Was this added to during late build 69’s?

32

Originality / Unusual 69 paint inspection marks - are these correct?

« on: May 23, 2008, 01:44:23 AM »

I ran across this Norwood built 69Z at the Mecum Muscle Car Auction, held in Indy on 5/14- 5/18.  It was a nice car but it had some unusual inspection paint marks that I have never seen and question. Are these correct?

Also, were the heads ever marked "DZ" as shown below?

33

Originality / Emergency brake cable tag "NP" on 69's?

« on: May 23, 2008, 01:29:31 AM »

Was this "NP" ID tag originally on 69 emergency brake cables?  I found this tag on a "COPO Vehicle Verification VIN #....", certified Yenko.  A very nice 69 but I have never seen this tag on an E-Brake cable.  Was this unique to 69’s or specific model 69's from the assembly plant?

34

Originality / 69 Center axle bumper - two styles?

« on: May 17, 2008, 03:42:30 PM »

During the 69 model run, there were two different style center axle bumpers, one retained with screws to the bottom of the chassis, the other a pushed in style. 

Was the push in style a 68 carry over and used on early 69's?

My May "05A" Norwood car has the push in style.  The 69 AIM, UPC section 4, page 59 shows that the documentation was updated on 8-29-68 to include screw #3958062, and changed the bumper from #3923564 to bumper asm #3962763.

Can someone confirm the changeover date?  Does anyone have their original screw in style bumpers?  If so, what is your build date and could you please post a picture of the bumper?

Thanks.

 

35

Originality / 69Z Alternators - "CZ 4" stamping, what does the "4" mean?

« on: May 17, 2008, 03:17:31 PM »

I have seen several original 69Z, #1100837 alternators that had the "CZ4" ink stamping.  What does the "4" indicate? 

Was the 4 included on all 69Z alternators during the model production run?

I am photo documenting an original, numbers matching, Oct 69 "10D" Norwood Z28 that had its original alternator.  Attached are the pics.

Thanks,
Dave

36

Originality / 69Z Holly date code vs. build date of car?

« on: April 15, 2008, 01:07:18 AM »

If I am not mistaken (and based on the 69 AIM), the 69Z List 4053 Holly carb was assembled during the car final assembly, thus should key of the car's build date.  What is considered an ideal date code for the carb vs. the car assembly date?  The same month or one month prior to the car's build date?

Thanks,

37

Originality / YH Rally Wheel date code vs car assembly date?

« on: April 15, 2008, 12:58:33 AM »

What are typical date codes on the rims vs. the assembly date code of the car? 

JohnZ...I am curious what your wheel date codes are vs. your car assembly date?  Are your 69Z rims the early "AD" rims or "YH" and are they all the same date code?   I don't recall if you have an early Z.

What is considered ideal or acceptable wheel date codes, the same month or one month prior the car build date? 

Anyone else out there with a survivor 69Z with the original rims?

Thanks,

38

Originality / Sway bar brackets - correct application and color?

« on: March 27, 2008, 12:17:44 AM »

In Jerry MacNeish's book, The Definitive 1969 Camaro Z/28-SS396 Fact Book, he noted that in February 1969, new sway bar brackets went into production.  These new brackets had four "fingers" to better retain the bushings.  See attached pic.  My 69 is a May build car.

Can anyone confirm how long the original brackets were used on their 69's, or about how long past February the original brackets were used?  Providing your VIN # or build date will be helpful.

Also, Jerry notes the brackets are to be 60 percent gloss black.  Were they painted or dark gray/black phosphate and oiled which appears to be about the same color sheen?  Where any of these brackets zinc or silver cadium plated.

Where bolts gray phosphate or silver cad?

Thanks for you help.

39

Originality / 69 4-Speed shift linkage, bracket, etc. - original component finishes?

« on: March 10, 2008, 02:03:32 AM »

Does anyone have pictures of original or suvivor 69 4-speed shifter linkage, the shifter mounting bracket, clutch push rod, and the reverse lockout rods?  I would like to confirm the correct plating, paint color, or natural steel color, of these various components listed below.  Or, can you confirm what is considered correct per judging standards.

The colors/planting I have listed below are what my originals appeared to be, but would like to confirm.  If you could copy and edit my list and include the correct color or finish after each item would be helpful.

Jerry MacNeish’s book, The Definitive 1969 Camaro Z/28-SS396 Fact Book, shows black and white photos of 69 Z28 linkage and levers.  The levers appear to be natural steel, and I believe the 1-2, 3-4, and reverse rods were dark phosphate plated. 

This is the list of items I am referring to, organized by section as called out in the 69 AIM:

UPC 7, Sec. C3, Page 112 covering Clutch Shaft & Push Rod:
Item 17 Rod #3849703
Item 14 Nut #124829
Item 18 Rod (threaded portion) #3840843
Item 1 Shaft Assy # 3899013 (bell crank) – natural steel, no grease fitting but with red push in cap?
Item 9 Bracket #3932760 – 40-60% black gloss paint, zink dark silver or natural steel?
Item 8 (3) screws #9420603 – dark phosphate?

UPC M20, Sec. A3, Page 324 covering 4 Speed Trans-Lever & Bracket Asm:
Item 2 (2) bolts #9420950 – dark phosphate or zink dark silver?
Item 3 screw #9789597 - dark phosphate or zink dark silver?
Item 4 support asm (shifter mounting bracket) #9791899 – natural steel?
Item 5 special nut #3955770 – dark phosphate, zink dark silver or natural steel?
Item 10 & 11, shifter attachment bolts #9419062 & 454950, and associate washer and lock washers – dark phosphate plated?

UPC M20, Sec A5, Page 326 covering the 4 Speed Trans-Levers & Control Rods:
Item 1 & 15, the Reverse #3955769 & the 1-2 & 3-4 Levers #9798541, natural steel?
Items 10, 11, 12 Washer, Lock Washer & Bolt #9418967 (TR head marking?) for levers – dark phosphate?
Items 2, 13 & 14, the Reverse, 1-2 & 3-4 shifter rods and the associated swivels and lock nuts - dark phosphate?

UPC M20, Sec A7, Page 328, 4 Speed Trans Interlock Linkage (reverse lock out):
Items 2 & 6, the Upper and Lower Rods – phosphate or natural?
Items 3 & 5, the Control Lock Idler #3955780 & Mounting-Support #3945595 – silver cad, zink dark silver or natural steel?
Item 4 (2) screws #9419402 - dark phosphate, E head markings?

Thanks in advance for you input.
 

40

Originality / 69 Gas Caps revisited - original Cap?

« on: February 23, 2008, 08:32:56 PM »

Back in October 2006, there was a discussion on 69 Gas Caps.  I dug up my original cap, or the cap that was on my 69.  I can not be sure if it is “the original” cap but it appeared to be.

In the picture “Gas Caps_1” shown below, the cap on the left is the replacement or reproduction.  It was 10 years ago I purchased the cap and I can’t remember if it was a repro or a GM replacement.  The cap on the right is my original.  Picture “Gas Caps _4” shows the “Vented” and “Anti Surge” scrip stamped into the cap. 

Notice the difference in the location of the ears on the OD versus the orientation of the handle tabs. The pic #2 shows the different plating on the inner detail.  Again, the original cap is on the right.  Pic #6 is the “S” stamping on the tab on the repro/replacement, and pic #7 is the “S” stamp on the original cap tab.

Does anyone have an original or survivor 69 with “the original” cap?  I would like to see pictures of it and know the plant and build date of your Camaro.  My 69Z is a Norwood car built 05A, or during the 1st week of May.

Thanks!

41

Restoration / Need tip: installing speedometer grommet

« on: February 10, 2008, 09:11:37 PM »

Has anyone had success installing a new grommet on an exitsing speedometer cable?  It’s a safe assumption that on original cable assemblies, the grommet was installed before the metal end is crimped to the cable!  As you can see, the diameter on crimped end of the cable is nearly three times the size of the hole in the grommet.

42

Originality / Correct Speedometer Cable for 1969 with M21

« on: January 15, 2008, 03:13:16 AM »

I ran across the discussion below (from June 30, 2007 from CRG Member "bertfam") regarding speedometer cables. Can any give me a good reference where to buy the correct length cable for a 1969 Z with M21?

Does it matter when the car was built during the model year?  Mine was built the first week of May.

Rick's First Gen list "quality reproductions" for $31.99, a 62" cable item no. SC-77, or 71" cable item no. SC-78.

Are they still available from GM?  If so, what is the new part no. x-ref to the old part numbers, called out in the AIM, page 330, Sec A9, M20, M21 & M22, "4-Speed Trans Speedometer Cable Routing".

This section calls out:
P/N-6454863 Speed CBL ASM (lower) L6 & V8 Base Eng, RPO L65 & LF7, Coupe & Convertible.......what was this cable length?
P/N-6477214 Upper Production Cable 12437 (= sport coupe) W/RPO L34, L35, L48, L78 & LM1.......cable length?
P/N-6477216 Upper Production Cable 12467 (= convertible) W/RPO L34, L35, L48, L78 & LM1.......cable length?

Discussion from June 2007:
"The speedometer cable part number would have been P/N 6477132 (or P/N 3878814) for the base 3 speed, and P/N 6454863 (lower) and P/N 6477129 (upper) for the 4 speed. (The Saginaw 4 speed used a 2 piece cable.)"

Thanks!

43

Originality / Are these original 1969 tie rod sleeves?

« on: January 15, 2008, 02:14:28 AM »

Can anyone let me know, or better yet, show pictures of their original/survivor tie rod sleeves, and let me know the build date of your car?  I am curious to know if there were several styles used during the 69 model year.

These pictures are those that were on my Norwood built 1969Z, during the first week of May (05A), VIN N638712.  My car was taken apart by a previous owner during a cosmetic restoration so I can not be sure these are the originals; however, the appeared to be.

Thanks,

44

General Discussion / Voltage regulator conversion to electonic

« on: December 05, 2007, 02:27:11 AM »

Last year I recall a discussion about modifying an original voltage regulator to electronic.  I have not had any success in getting my original unit to work properly, so I performed a variation of the conversion I read about on CRG. 

My goal was to retain the stock look of the regulator which meant retaining the resistors on the back side of the original unit.  The resistors can be seen when the unit is mounted on the core support.  The electronic regulators work great and are trouble-free but I wanted to retain my original date coded regulator body.

The conversion worked well, yielding proper voltage; however, the resistor between terminal “F” and “4” gets hot, even when the car is off (indicating current flow).  I realize that the electronic unit no longer needs the resistors on the back side of the unit.  I would like to discretely isolate the resistor.

Question:
Can I do this by simply cutting a small slot(s) in one or both of the metal connector tabs to break the current flow thru it?  See the red lines in the picture of the back side of the regulator.
 
The conversion process:
1.) Remove the guts from the original regulator.  DO NOT REMOVE ANY RIVITS OR STUDS THAT RETAIN THE METAL TEMINAL CONNECTORS ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE REGULATOR.  Instead, cut the stem off any stud and grind the heads of the remaining studs and/or rivets down to within about 1/16" of the base.

2.) On the new electronic regulator, drill out the rivets to remove the circuit board.  Use caution not to remove electric contact rings or eyelets of material under the rivet on the circuit board. These eyelets are what make the electrical contact to the circuit board.

3.) Clean the heads of the ground off rivets.  Line up the (4) eyelets in the circuit board with the rivet heads on the regulator.  Apply generous drops of solder in each eyelet to secure the circuit board to the rivet heads.  See pic.

4.)   Add a ground lead similar to the lead on the electronic unit, to the rivet on head toward the rear.  See attached pictures.

PS: I cannot yet attest to the durability of this conversion but will keep you posted.  If you attempt this conversion, and drive your car, keep a spare electronic regulator tucked away in your car – just in case!

45

Restoration / Lug wrench color & retaining straps - follow up

« on: December 27, 2006, 04:48:48 AM »

Back in the Jan - Feb '06 time frame, there was a question if the lug wrench was gray.  I believe the general consensus was that the lug wrench was black, but were any of them gray?  I have seen gray lug wrenches on other older (non-Camaro) Chevrolets. Jerry MacNeish's book calls out the semi-gloss gray paint on all jack components, and gold or silver cad for the jack post.  I went ahead and painted my lug wrench gray but I could be wrong (technically) on this, for a 69 Camaro.

Does anyone out there still have their original jack assembly to show the color of the lub wrench?

JohnZ.......regarding the rubber straps, you noted that you still had one on your jack.  Was it about 4" long?  Could you post a pic of your jack with the sleeve and ruler along slide?

A friend with a 69Z and I together purchased some replacement rubber that came in about 12" stock lengths.  If I recall, I had seen a straps on an original car that were about 4" long so we cut the 12" stock in to 4" lengths.  The 69 AIM manual, p. 136 covering the spare tire and jack stowage, calls out the rubber straps as P/N-4778650.  They appear shorter that 4" as someone noted in the earlier post on this topic.

Attached are pics of my jack assy and detail pic of the strap.