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Messages - mrdetails

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76
Restoration / Horn Buttons
« on: October 01, 2007, 07:56:58 PM »
Hello: I have a repo steering wheel shroud, repo horn buttons and the spring and pin that are supose to make contact with the cancelation cam in the column. The buttons have wires hanging from them that are striped on the free end. I cant figure out how they are supose to connect to the pin. I looked in the service manual (the picture was small) and it appeared that the shroud had a spade connector in the middle that the wires hooked to. It also showed another wire comming from the spring that appeared to plug into the shroud. This piece isn't listed in any of the supplier catalogs. Does any one have a photo that shows this connection? Is their indeed another wire that is connected to the spring? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thks.:
Sam

77
Restoration / Re: 69 Camaro horn
« on: September 26, 2007, 07:52:49 PM »
Jerry MacNeish at Camaro High Performance. z28camaroman.com

78
There are also 2 metal clips (with hole for screw) that clip on the top edge of the dash that hold the lens on at the top. (I have a couple of these) I also have a couple of the stud  tabs, although most of the ones I've seen have a push on clip that takes a screw to hold clock to dash. I usually make the cutout with a hot knife but a coping saw would work, go slow.
Sam

79
Restoration / Re: not sure to acid dip or media blast car.............
« on: September 18, 2007, 02:09:15 PM »
Soda, media(plastic chips) or walnut shell blasting won't remove rust though. Eastwood Co. has a chart in their catalog  that lists all the choices and the results to expect.

80
Restoration / Re: Correct '69 L-78 front springs?
« on: September 13, 2007, 04:29:15 PM »
Check In the Rick's First Generation catalog. They have a copy of the chart to pick which spring to use taking into consideration what options your car had ie. which engine, air conditioning..... They also sell the labels.
Sam

81
Restoration / Re: Judging manual
« on: September 12, 2007, 03:51:18 PM »
Jerry's fine book will be a great help also...their's a section on original finishes.
Sam

82
Restoration / Re: Judging manual
« on: September 11, 2007, 07:43:20 PM »
Until it's ready, get a factory assembly manual available at all the camaro suppliers. Refered to as the "AIM" on this site.
Sam

83
Restoration / Re: not sure to acid dip or media blast car.............
« on: September 11, 2007, 07:40:45 PM »
Brandan: I had my 1969 coupe stripped by a chemical stripping place. It isn't really acid dip(thats done to race cars to lighten them) Chemical stripping anymore (EPA) is more likr the way an engine shop cleans a block. They have a large oven and heat the body to 700 degrees. This powders all paint, fiberglass, undercoat and grease on the body. Then they pressure wash it to clean the crap off. Then the bogy is soaked in a vatt of caustic soda (cold) to remove any remaining junk. Then a mild phosporic acid bath to remove the rust (not metal). Phosporic acid is used in naval jelly and other rust removers.The body will be perfectly clean like new sheet metal. Even inside the quaters and doors.
The problem with this process is you have to get primer on the body right away, it will rust on the way home. Also all seam's are cleaned out and require a penetrating type sealer like Eastwood sells.
Media blasting will not clean inside tight areas but will do a nice job on pannels and such.
If I was going to do it again I think I would hire some kid's to strip it with aircraft stripper top and bottom and wash it with thinner. I seen some nice jobs done this way if you take care and do a good job.
Just my opinion, good luck:
Sam


84
Restoration / Re: Outer door window felts
« on: September 07, 2007, 08:33:42 PM »
I went and looked at three original 1969 Camaro's today. They all had standard interiors. They all had round beads on the interior fuzzies. That's the diference, the delux interior had flat beads like JohnZ's and standaard interiors had the round bead.
Thks.:
Sam

85
Restoration / Re: Outer door window felts
« on: September 05, 2007, 07:51:07 PM »
I talked to PUI the other day. They said that even the oem ultra original set has round beads on the inside as well as the outside. I don't know what gives. I ordered a set of the non-original type to see what the inner ones look like.
Sam

86
Restoration / Re: Replacement seat foam
« on: September 05, 2007, 07:47:18 PM »
Just finished this job....looks good....nice and tight. It was some job pulling the seat cover over the foam though even using a dry cleaners plastic bag. The zip ties worked out real well, saved a lot of trouble getting the listing lines togther. Now on to the backs.

87
Restoration / Re: Outer door window felts
« on: August 31, 2007, 04:55:09 PM »
That's the set I bought from Ground-Up Restorations, but my inners have a round bead with no rubber. I'll have to get a hold of PUI. Good thing I saw this post before I installed them.
Thks.:
Sam

88
Restoration / Re: Outer door window felts
« on: August 31, 2007, 02:01:52 PM »
I am at this same spot with my reassembly process. I notice from the photo's posted by Dave69x33 the felts on the door pannel (inside) have a different bead at the top than the one on the outside. It is wider and flater. The PUI's (the ones they call original) have the same bead on both. The cheaper felts (nonoriginal style) have a wider flatter bead on top. Would these be better to use on the inside? It would mean buying both sets and using half of each. What is the consensus of opinions?
Sam

89
General Discussion / Re: How hard is it?
« on: August 29, 2007, 01:02:53 PM »
The hardest part of the job is geting the listing lines hog ringed in place to the springs. Be carefull when you remove the old covers to notice how they were installed. Take notice of where the front edge of the cover is with relation to the front edge of the spring assy. When you start installation, the cover will be inside out so you can get at the reinforcements of the listing lines. The listing lines are the edges of the pleated section of the cover. These have to be secured to the spring or the cover will move around and look crappie. The seatcovers usually don't have metal or plastic rods in the reinforcements like the factory ones do so save them from your old covers or you can use 3/32' welding rod. To make this part of the job easier I use long zip ties around the listing line reinforcements of the cover and around the listing line part of the spring. This way you can snug them down a little at a time but leave them a little loose. This way when you turn the cover right side out and install the plastic lip under the seat frame. then pull the cover toward the back where it hog rings to the frame. With the cover in place you can then pull the zip ties tight and hog ring the listing lines togther.
Changing the foam makes it a little more dificult as the foam is new and thicker than used stuff. You will have to pull a lot harder.
The back of the seat is some what easier as the listing line is a "u" shape, so you can tell where it locates.
With all that said, it isn't that bad of a job, even for a beginer. If you not happy with the results just cut the hog rings remove the cover and start over.
The baby powder trick sounds good, I like to use dry cleaner plastic bags. Put the bag over the form so the cover can slide over it, this will make pulling easier.
Good luck:
Sam

90
Originality / Re: Seat belt date code
« on: August 27, 2007, 07:49:35 PM »
Thanks for the quick response and info. I checked out the Team Camaro site.  Belts also hade a code number on them, I guess for usage. Does anyone know what it is for Camaro. There was info on the other site someonel posted but I think it was for an Impala. My original belts were in bad shape..none of the labels were readable.
Thks. again:
Sam

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