Messages

1816

General Discussion / Re: Stainless Chambered exhaust

« on: March 28, 2014, 03:11:01 PM »

For a better illustration of parts in the AIM go to the L34 section, it has the early clamp part numbers listed along with the complete list of parts.

1817

Research Topics & Reports / Re: 1968 SS hood ornaments

« on: March 28, 2014, 03:01:03 PM »

Do they appear to have silver paint in the area or is it a textured surface?
It also looks as though the matte silver comes all the way to the top on the outside of the stacks, is this correct?

BTW the inner black out in the bottom of the stacks appears to be anodized aluminum in the originals, are the NOS ones the same?

1818

Originality / Re: markings on fender extensions

« on: March 26, 2014, 12:43:15 PM »

I thought they were there to indicate fender piercings.
I have seen many Z28 extensions with G, which coincidentally is the build sheet engine code for the Z28.
Have also seen RG on a Rally Sport Z28 and it was not Rally Green.

 

1819

Restoration / Re: Rust on galvanized parts

« on: March 25, 2014, 06:36:43 PM »

If you use the Evaporust on galvanized......after the Evaporust had done its job......what is left on the surface where the rust was? Galvanizing or bare metal?

Either way, if you just spray it with Boeshield afterwards, just doing that will protect it for years to come?

Thank.................Dave

Boeshield it a great product however I have found a Dupont product which is a teflon based waxed chain protectant/lube. it works better, lasts longer and is 1/3 the price. PLUS... the wax base dries to a film without gloss and isn't tacky. Designed for motorcycle chains it resists slinging off, water spray, & etc.

If it was a larger pitted area I sprayed some zinc rich cold galvanizing paint on a rag and rubbed it into the area.  same thing I did to the Gas tank on a survivor.

1820

Maintenance / Re: maintaining doors...

« on: March 25, 2014, 06:24:18 PM »

door has had paint work at some point...

Biggest tell is...
The felt guides screwed (with little countersunk phillips head screws) to the outside of the door are completely covered in orange paint...

1821

General Discussion / Re: Stainless Chambered exhaust

« on: March 23, 2014, 06:45:03 PM »

The C-clamps are correct for the over axle hanger attachment to the pipe on early cars.

1822

Research Topics & Reports / Re: 1968 SS hood ornaments

« on: March 22, 2014, 01:52:19 AM »

Is this what you're talking about Ed?

1823

Restoration / Re: Muncie cleaning

« on: March 22, 2014, 01:38:26 AM »

Yes, anything die cast will oxidize quickly, the skin created through the vibratory tumbler with steel shot appears to slow the oxidation process and slightly polish the casting.

 
The appearance of your main case is pretty nice, if you degrease it then use carb clener and a tooth brush it will look great, the tail shaft may require something more powerful (foaming oven cleaner?)  as it appears to be heavily oxidized.
If you use oven cleaner tape off the rest of the trans as it is very powerful and you don't want to mess up your cast finish.
Oven cleaner will also take the polished look off a set of aluminum valve covers.

1824

Originality / 1969 Engine emblems assembly line different LH and RH?

« on: March 22, 2014, 01:15:37 AM »

The 69 AIM lists RH LH part numbers for 307 emblems.
The 396 car I am painting now has an original RH 396 Emblem which has the casting number of 3938672 RH and the Triangle TC logo inside the back, it also has a different profile than the other emblem on the car which has 3962951 casting number.
The NOS GM ones I see for sale have both 3938671 and 3962951 cast into the back.

Also I recently found a used RH version of the 350 emblem on ebay with the casting number being one off of the number cast in the back of the NOS emblems marketed as being for LH or RH.
 


So my question is were production line emblems different left to right?

1825

Restoration / Re: Muncie cleaning

« on: March 21, 2014, 06:49:21 PM »

The tail shaft housing should have the same finish as the Z28 valve covers or the steering box cover (die cast aluminum) the main case should look like a Z28 aluminum intake (it was pour cast in a green sand mold then into a vibratory tumbler with steel shot to remove the casting sand).



These are cast aluminum seat stands which are fresh out of the vibratory tumbler loaded with steel shot.

1826

Restoration / Re: Rust on galvanized parts

« on: March 21, 2014, 05:04:10 AM »

Evaporust/safest rust remover then boeshield or teflon wax chain lube

Before


A stick of window track half done showing the difference.


After

After

1827

General Discussion / Re: Interior color numbers for 67?

« on: March 19, 2014, 09:27:45 PM »

Black over Parchment would be a great one... give her an L78 and I would have to own it!

1828

Research Topics & Reports / Re: 1968 SS hood ornaments

« on: March 19, 2014, 09:25:19 PM »

I hate to do this but I think this is going to snow ball...

Has anyone noticed there are two types of SS Stacks???  One my cars I have a set where the square stacks are chrome all the way to the base and another car where the chrome only goes about 1/4" down... I'll have to post photos later... but I think both have the correct part numbers...

Can you post a photo illustrating the differences?
I have looked at the stacks I have and can not understand whether the difference you speak of it a difference in the black paint application or a different design.

1829

Research Topics & Reports / Re: 1968 Rally Sport grille research

« on: March 19, 2014, 09:13:02 PM »

The ribs are either stamped foil or the whole thing was vacuum metalized then painted.
I do not believe it is possible vacuum metalize a specific area of a part.

1830

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Correct Striping

« on: March 17, 2014, 03:45:57 PM »

Silver over red... that would be a nice one to own.