For me, DeRusto semi-gloss black enamel gives a nice semi-gloss sheen and is available through True Value Hardware stores. You can cut it with lacquer thinner so it dries fast, and it's very easy to spray. It's also available in spray cans for touch-up if needed. But make dang sure you mask anything you don't want overspray on--it fogs like crazy--but I've found it more durable than PPG and other more expensive paints. It's also good for the frame and underbody and anything else that needs a semi-flat tone. My 2 cents and good luck!

I meant E-coat, John--brain fart. So if I understand you right, the coating GM uses now is NOT the coating of old? I was referring to parts as they come over the counter in boxes, and the GM NOS sheetmetal still comes with the black coating. And that begs a good question; is the NOS stuff still available from GM REALLY new old stock, or is GM selling in-house repro parts through it's delaerships as NOS? The aftermarket stuff has what looks like an identical E-coat to the old GM parts. Just curious.

  I'm curious--is the black EPDM coating (primer/sealer?) that GM uses today on components the same kind of coating that was used in '68? I hear and see endless speculation on the correct "gloss" for subframes, radiator supports, inner fenders, A-frames, rear axles, etc... NOS GM sheetmetal and many new car parts still come with this coating, and it occurs to me if select parts were EPDM coated back then, a lot of the mystery would be taken out of the correct "sheen" controversy if EPDM is in fact the same stuff from the Old Days. I know different parts have different degrees of gloss--a bumper bracket may be gloss black and a fender will be EPDM, but surely there was a pattern... Is this a valid speculation or is my logic all wet?   

Dang, Rich, I tried the envelope but the email came back as undeliverable. You must have one heckuva firewall!

I'm no expert either, Kevin, and I'm in the middle of detailing my '68's subframe now. I took a lot of pictures when I disassembled it for I found yellow markings on the underside at the driver's-side spring pocket and on the front frame horn underside. There was also a yellow mark under the top right-side A-frame where the jounce bumper hits. And that's not counting the orange and lavender marks I found on the suspension. I find this stuff really neat! 

Thanks, RJ! Cool info.

It's already down to the shell, X77, but ty for the tip. It will hopefully help someone else.

Amen, Phil! I soft-cleaned everything looking for stuff like this when I stripped my car, but in many places a previous owner had gone nuts with undercoating and if marks were there, they went when the undercoating came off! It even had undercoating on the A-frames and radiator support. Good for metal preservation, but bad for this kinda stuff.

Sorry for being a dummy, guys, but what is an X-55 car? X-55 isn't in my White Book.

As a general rule, the 168-tooth flywheels used the staggered-bolt starter, while the smaller ones used the straight bolt pattern. This may help you spot one at a swap meet. Good luck.

Didn't get the email, Rich. You probably already know, but just click on the link above. Thanks.

That's my beast, Rich!, although my '68 wire is blue. No matter, the boot is the same and it's no sweat to change it over to my harness. "Talk to me, my boy," as Jerry Reed said to Burt Reynolds in Smokey and The Bandit. If you want to sell it, email me at rusticman46@aol.com with the details. It's nit-picking stuff like this that drives you nuts until you meet another Camaro nut with what you need to keep our cars going. Thanks, bud!

Low-tech guy here--I lay a cinderblock on the brake pedal and pump it up between cylinder bleeds (chuckle).

If yer dealing with a Quadrajunk, toss it and get a Spread-Bore Holley!  Seriously, it sounds to me like a very lean condition like CNorton said. Just for the hell of it, take the fuel line off and see if the bronze filter is in backwards--if it has one. The cone of the filter should be pointed at the fuel line, not the blunt end of the filter. A reversed filter will allow just enough gas to let the engine run great at idle, but stall under load. This comes to mind because my cousin installed a fuel filter on a dump truck backwards AND left a vacuum tap unplugged as well. A freak incident to be sure, but you never know. Good luck.

  Does anyone know of a vendor that sells the rubber boot that goes on the oil sending unit for the idiot light? No junkyards even now will let be buy just that wire and break the harness up, and I can't find a boot anywhere outside of buying a whole new harness, which  don't need.  Any tips would be greatly apppreciated  . Thanks.