Junk the Quadrajunk and put a Holley Spread-Bore on it    lol      IF originality doesn't matter.

Also........the crank throws have to be just right for the pan to come down clean. If you have probs getting the pan past the crossmember, try rotating the crank a few degrees at a time. If the counterweights are at the bottom they'll hit the pan and cause it to bind on the crossmember. The Fel-Pro 1-piece gasket is a Godsend. Good luck. 

Dumb question, but does it have bigger tires? I ran into this with my '68 with negative-offset wheels. The tires would rub and "knock" in certain conditions. Just a thought.

HEI usually requires hammering the firewall. A stock HEI is virtually useless if you spin the engine over 7000 anyway. The spark scattter and cross-induction the HEI is supposed to fix is irrelevant because it's so rpm limited in stock form. Plus........there is the factory resistance wire issue. I'd go Pertronix conversion hands-down. It looks stock, doesn't require beating up the firewall, and if you ever have to remove the distributor it doesn't take Houdini to get the thing out of the engine. Just my thoughts and good luck!

If you're not set on concours originality, NAPA sells a rebuilt motor at a fairly resaonable price, but their stock is getting low! These motors are original in appearance and have a warranty, but do not come with the washer pump or mounting bushings. Hope this helps.

  As far as I know, no such documents ever existed. As I understand it, even the COPO cars were delivered as-is and the dealer/racer was expected to do the tuning. Some of the first ZL-1 cars were delivered with the wrong carburetor (780) and Super Stock racers were in a tizzy for a bit. The Yenko cars were tuned in-house i.e. re-curved distributor etc. Even the first Z/28s came with the headers or cowl air cleaners in the trunk for the buyer to install and tune.
  With the advent of air pumps and emissions equipment surely a dealer service department wouldn't have been issued a factory directive on modifying the engine of a street car--especially after 1970 and the Clean Air Act. Mechanics on the line at a dealership go by the emissions sticker on the car as far as idle speed etc, or consult the factory specs in the book.
  On a race car you can do pretty much whatever you please internally in the carburetor depending upon class. The factory jets were usually pretty close and if anything they were lean to meet emissions standards. The beauty of the Holley carburetor is it's simple design and ease of tuning. Basically, tweak the jets, mess around with the secondary diaphragm spring and play with squirter and you're set. Unleaded fuel didn't come about until the '70s, so that wouldn't affect a '67 at all.
  Good luck and I hope this helps.

Thanks, guys. I used the pigtail off of the glove compartment light as a hot wire and made a pigtail on the driver's door switch black wire (inside the kick panel) as the ground, so I didn't have to cut into the factory loom. The lights work great! You guys rock. Thanks so much.

  Hi guys: I'm upgrading my interior with underdash courtesy lights and have a dumb question--how do they hook up? I bought a repro harness with the wiring and sockets and have the repro socket brackets and loom installed. Now--where does the thing plug in? The repro harness has a male plug made onto it, but for the life of me I cannot find the factory female plug in the car's harness. Is there a factory female plug already up under the dash? If there isn't, how do I wire the new harness in? I know they work on a weird ground principle and would appreciate any advice. Thanks a lot!

   10-bolt plates will work, but you may have to grind the center axle bearing holes oversize a tad. I have a new Moser 12-bolt under my car and I used the backing plates from an old 10-bolt. I don't know of the Moser axle bearings are bigger than standard GM or not because I used C-clip eliminators. But the holes only need to be enlarged slightly. I used a carbide bit in a grinder and it's a snap. Hope this helps.

Fellows........you can get an AIM reprint from Classic Muscle for $20. I'd just as soon (and have) buy the thing printed out at that price. Hope this helps someone.

I haven't used a repro Muncie shifter, but I sure hope they're better than the factory ones, which were awful. Everyone I knew back in the day junked the damned things and bought a Hurst Competition/Plus or a Super Shifter. The factory got wise in '69 and used a Hurst. Good luck.

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I've let the doors sit closed for about 2 weeks now and weatherstrips are taking a set and the doors aren't as hard to shut now--a firm push will latch them. However, I did have to drill a few different holes for the plastic retaining pins at the top, and the window on one side doesn't seat exactly right in the front slot when it's rolled up. At some point I plan to get the latex strips, but for now I can live with it. At least I don't have to SLAM the doors to get them to shut anymore. Thanks again for all the great input. You guys rock.

I used my original bolts and washers with urethane bushings and have had no problems whatsoever. Mine is a Southern car and they were in excellent shape. But--new bolts are not that expensive if you choose to go that route. Good luck.

Welcome, Roy! When I first discovered this site I was amazed at the knowledge too, and I continue to be. These guys are something else.

Hey guys. I'm putting new weatherstripping on the doors of my '68 and have run into a problem: The doors won't shut. I'm using Soff Seal products and they seem to be about 1" too long and too thick at the front of the door where it meets the roofrail weatherstrip. It looks as if I'll have to cut the rubber to fit and drill new holes for the plastic retaining pins. These are new aftermarket Goodmark doors which have been just a nightmare in every respect to work with. Hardly anything has lined up or been in the right place and I'm wondering if the doors may be at fault with the weatherstrip as well. Has anyone else run into this problem with either Goodmark doors or Soff Seal weatherstrip? I'd appreciate any input or advice. Thanks.