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Messages - hotrod68

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46
Mild Modifications / Re: Engine swap--are all 327s the same?
« on: May 11, 2014, 04:09:23 AM »
1967 and back 327s had a canister oil filter and a breather tube behind the intake manifold. In 1968 they went to a spin-on filter. '67-back 327s also had different cranks with different size bearings, so there is a small-journal and a large-journal 327, the '68 and '69 being the large-journal. Pre-68 327 cranks were forged, '68 and up were cast. In 1969 and some late '68s the heads were cast differently and the '69 heads had accessory bolt holes for the longer water pump. Hope this helps.

47
Originality / Re: Throttle return spring Color
« on: April 27, 2014, 04:58:52 AM »
  The Ground Up restoration catalog lists the spring colors as 1967-69 Quadrajet--black. 1967-69 Holley--green. I don't know how accurate that is, but that's what the catalog lists. Perhaps you could contact them and find out more. Just a thought and good luck.

48
General Discussion / 1968 speed warning indicator
« on: April 25, 2014, 06:00:48 AM »
  Hi folks. Can anyone explain how the electrical part of the speed warning indicator works on a 1968 Camaro? I've gotten an aftermarket speedometer with the needle and cable, and the wiring harness. But I can't find a buzzer except on Ebay, and all of those have 3 terminals on them. The speedometer itself has black and brown wires, the harness has a pink and a white wire. Is the black speedometer wire a ground? It looks to me as if the black wire grounds to the cluster and the harness wires are both hot. Is the needle the switch that connects the 2 hot wires so that the buzzer goes off? That would explain the 3rd terminal on the buzzer, where the wire from the speedometer would plug in. If not, what makes it trigger when the speedometer indicator needle eclipses the speed warning needle? Also, when the speedometer needle gets to the preset speed, is it supposed to stop where the warning needle is set? Anything to help me understand this system would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

49
General Discussion / Re: Rear spoiler paint
« on: April 22, 2014, 03:17:10 AM »
 All I have ever seen are painted. This way it is body color with the trunk lid up. Most people paint the spoiler separate from the car anyway. Hope this helps.

50
Restoration / Automatic brake pedal
« on: April 17, 2014, 05:31:18 AM »
  Hey guys. I got the automatic pedal swapped in the '68 and now there is a problem: the pedal sits too high. It's an aftermarket piece from Rick's--surprise that an aftermarket part doesn't fit quite right. Everything swapped fine....the bushings and pins and master cylinder rod etc.. The new pedal is against the rubber bumper just as the stick pedal was, but it's about 3-4" too high from the floor and it's uncomfortable to cock my leg up and push it. Just another heads-up about aftermarket parts. If you can find an original part....FIND IT! It's worth the search and money.

51
General Discussion / Re: Cowl induction wiring
« on: April 17, 2014, 02:40:53 AM »
  Thanks, Tim! I got your email before I came to this site, then I saw you had posted it. I'm sure a lot of folks will be grateful for the diagram. I sure am. You guys are the best. Thanks again!

52
General Discussion / Cowl induction wiring
« on: April 15, 2014, 05:19:12 AM »
  Hi guys. Can anyone post a wiring diagram of how the cowl harness hooks up at the fuse box and what color wire goes to what? I have an aftermarket (of course) harness and it has 2 wires with 4 plugs coming off them--2 plugs per wire. The wires are pink and tan. Thanks.

53
General Discussion / Re: Got My '69RS Back From Paint and Body
« on: April 14, 2014, 03:44:35 AM »
Freakin' sweet! The stripe really sets it off. Beautiful car!

54
Mild Modifications / Re: rear end upgrade 1969
« on: April 11, 2014, 07:33:56 AM »
  If you can find one, a '69 Firebird 8.2 is stronger than the Camaro 8.2. It's a bolt-in except for a bastard U-joint you can get at any auto parts store. I ran one of these in my '68 years ago and it lived with a healthy 406. Just a thought and good luck.

55
General Discussion / Re: Brake pedal swap
« on: April 03, 2014, 02:30:11 PM »
  Yes, 68Z--that is the pivot pin I mentioned. The pedal and pivot shaft/pin are new from Rick's, just as in the picture you posted. Thanks fellows. You guys rock.

56
Restoration / Re: 68 Z engine parts
« on: April 02, 2014, 07:40:05 AM »
  In the old days a lot pf shops would just pin the studs. It was a cheap alternative to the machining and tapping for screw-in studs. I don't know if it's even done anymore, but your problem made me recall that a lot of studs got pinned in the '60s and '70s. Good luck and I hope everythnig is good now.

57
General Discussion / Brake pedal swap
« on: April 02, 2014, 07:31:23 AM »
  Hey guys. I need to swap a manual transmission brake pedal/clutch pedal setup for a single automatic brake pedal on a '68. I have the automatic pedal and pivot pin to make the change. I also have the cover for the firewall where the clutch pedal rod goes through. Will the automatic pedal simply replace the other pedals with no other parts? It looks as if the other assembly will just drop out when I take everything loose and remove the pivot pin, and the automatic pedal will fit right back in. But before I take the dash apart I don't want any surprises. The car has manual drum brakes if that makes any difference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

58
Maintenance / Re: 1968 Front Drum Brakes
« on: March 28, 2014, 06:30:46 AM »
The finned drums could have had metallic linings. I cannot say for sure. Someone here will know. They are the best.

59
General Discussion / Re: 26 year resto
« on: March 28, 2014, 04:49:32 AM »
Freakin' sweet! Well done and congratulations.

60
Restoration / Re: Rust on galvanized parts
« on: March 21, 2014, 03:31:45 AM »
  POR-15 will stop the rust and it's also relatively cheap. Scrub the parts with a wire brush or Scotchbrite and paint it on. Also, industrial supply stores sell a spray cold galvanizing that works remarkably well. I used this on my window tracks and hardware as well as the wiring cover plates that go along the rocker panels. After many years I have seen no sign of rust returning. Hope this helps.

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