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Topics - hotrod68

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16
General Discussion / Underdash courtesy lights
« on: December 18, 2012, 03:41:14 AM »
  Hi guys: I'm upgrading my interior with underdash courtesy lights and have a dumb question--how do they hook up? I bought a repro harness with the wiring and sockets and have the repro socket brackets and loom installed. Now--where does the thing plug in? The repro harness has a male plug made onto it, but for the life of me I cannot find the factory female plug in the car's harness. Is there a factory female plug already up under the dash? If there isn't, how do I wire the new harness in? I know they work on a weird ground principle and would appreciate any advice. Thanks a lot!



17
General Discussion / Door weatherstrip
« on: October 10, 2012, 03:19:44 AM »
Hey guys. I'm putting new weatherstripping on the doors of my '68 and have run into a problem: The doors won't shut. I'm using Soff Seal products and they seem to be about 1" too long and too thick at the front of the door where it meets the roofrail weatherstrip. It looks as if I'll have to cut the rubber to fit and drill new holes for the plastic retaining pins. These are new aftermarket Goodmark doors which have been just a nightmare in every respect to work with. Hardly anything has lined up or been in the right place and I'm wondering if the doors may be at fault with the weatherstrip as well. Has anyone else run into this problem with either Goodmark doors or Soff Seal weatherstrip? I'd appreciate any input or advice. Thanks.


18
General Discussion / Valvetrain noise
« on: April 18, 2012, 06:26:41 AM »
Hey guys:  I'm hoping there is an aftermarket tech guy in the forum who might help me. I replaced the roller cam in my '68 with a small base-circle roller and now from idle (1200) to around 2500 rpm the rocker arms are raising all kinds of cain. The cam is a Comp Cams solid roller with the new X-Treme lifters that oil the rollers on the lifters. I double-checked the valvetrain geometry on assembly and it looks good. The valves are lashed to Comp specs. The heads are AFR 210s with 7/16" studs and the rockers are Comp stainless rollers. This makes absolutely no sense, and I'm wondering if anyone has ever encountered this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

19
General Discussion / CRG Homepage
« on: June 28, 2011, 06:47:15 AM »
   To whoever owns the '68 Rally Sport pictured...kudos. That thing is late-'60s early '70s perfection. From the Cragars to the Lakewood traction bars to the Jenkins Competition front plate, that boy is absolutely awesome. I'd guess it has Sun gauges, too. Welll done, fellow car crafter. Thanks for sharing.

20
General Discussion / emblem placement
« on: June 29, 2010, 04:42:43 AM »
Hi guys;
  I'm prepping my '68 for paint and because I have aftermarket fenders I have no holes for the SS emblems and engine callouts. My old fenders were good only to make templates for the Camaro script and antenna hole because they were for some reason drilled for 1969 SS emblems and bastard engine emblems with the wrong holes. I can't make heads or tails out of the diagrams in my Assembly Manual. Short of spending $25 for a template kit, can anyone tell me how to measure for the SS and engine emblems so I can drill the holes? I'd sure appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

21
General Discussion / Dash and interior lights
« on: June 02, 2010, 08:41:16 AM »
Hi, fellows:
  My problem is my dash and dome lights--they haven't worked since I re-installed the wiring harnesses in my '68. All the idiot lights and turn signal indicators in the instrument cluster work as they should, as do the 4-way flasher lights, marker lights, and everything else on the circuit, but I have no instrument cluster lights and no power to the heater control bulb and dome light. I have power for the dash lights at the light switch and have used this for power to my gauge lights and they illuminate with the dashboard switch. The instrument cluster is grounded, else the idiot lights and turn signal indicators would not work. I realize that there may be a break in the printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster that is causing the dash lights not to work, but would this affect the heater control light as well? And what of the dome light? The car has a new headlight switch and I've tried the old one with which everything worked, but the results are the same: No dash or dome lights. This has really got me stumped and I can't help but think it's something simple I'm overlooking. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

22
Mild Modifications / '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel
« on: April 25, 2008, 03:43:50 AM »
Fellows, I want to use the '69 black 'comfort grip' steering wheel on my '68 instead of the walnut one. Does anyone know if the bolt pattern on the '68 hub is the same as a '69, and will the horn cap and hardware interchange? I'd appreciate any help, for I really want to use that wheel. Thanks.

23
Restoration / Repro sheetmetal tip...
« on: April 07, 2008, 03:58:58 AM »
   Here's a heads-up that may save someone some aggravation  I had to use new Goodmark doors on my '68 and when I tried to adjust the windows it was a nightmare. I spent literally hours trying to get the RS window to fit the weatherstrip and align with the roof rail, but no matter how I adjusted it, it would not raise up high enough in the back to fit right. Also, the front edge of the glass would hit the door.
   It turned out that the slots for the window cam had been punched a good one inch off the mark and had to be elongated, and I had to grind the door for clearance where the front of the window passes up out of the door. Hope this helps someone! 

24
General Discussion / Title search
« on: March 26, 2008, 03:47:14 AM »
I'd like to research the history of my '68 and see how many times the title has changed hands and perhaps track down the previous owners and where it was originally sold new. I've had the car since 1983 but it came with no documentation at all beyond a clear title. Can someone advise me about how to begin this process, and what it might entail? I read in magazines like Hemmings how cars have been documented, but there is no information on how it was done. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Barry

25
Restoration / roof rail weatherstrip
« on: January 17, 2008, 05:17:15 AM »
  Hi guys;  I'm in the process of adjusting my door and 1/4-windows and have run into a problem with them sealing on the weatherstrips along the roof rails. I'm using the previous holes in the weatherstrip channels to locate them, and with the weatherstrip in place I cannot adjust the windows correctly. The windows bind at the bottom at the front of the door, but the top of the glass is just kissing the weatherstrip and not sealing. Ditto with the 1/4-windows adjusted to match the door glass.
  The weatherstrip channel at present is standing off about 3/16" from the inside of the roof rail and not flush, using the old screw holes. With the old, shrunken GM weatherstrip this worked fine. I'm using new SoffSeal weatherstrip and have been told it doesn't "crush" as well as OEM because of its non-hollow core. I've had this problem on the deck lid as well.
  I guess my question is, and it may be a dumb one; is it common to have to elongate or drill new holes in the roof rail weatherstrip channels to move them inboard to make the glass fit right? I know next to nothing about this, and would greatly appreciate any tips or advice.

26
Maintenance / Please help--'68 door window adjustment...
« on: November 06, 2007, 04:03:55 AM »
   Tonight I put the driver's-side door window back in my '68, and all is not well--unlike the passenger side installation, which went off without a hitch. I'm using the original glass, tracks, sashes..etc. The only non-original items are the window mounting plates w/rollers and the regulator.
   When I bolted the glass to the regulator I had to push the sash out onto the window studs, and the glass is very hard to roll up and down and binds severely in the tracks. During the middle half of it's travel it cocks in hard against the inside fuzzy guides for no apparent reason. I tried every adjustment to make, and nothing made any difference. I compared the new repro regulator and window mount plates against the originals, and they appear indentical. I have virtually no experience with windows other than the other 3 which went back in perfectly. Could the repro regulator be the culprit, or am I just overlooking something simple? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

 

27
Restoration / package shelf board installation...
« on: August 31, 2007, 03:36:25 AM »
I'm putting some of the interior back in my '68 now, and the rear package shelf has me puzzled. I'm using the jute insulation under the board and the board just doesn't want to go with the jute under it. Do I put the jute down, then bow the board in the middle and slide it in as an interference fit with the ledge at the back window? Or do I glue the jute to the board and install them as one piece? Or do I glue the jute to the package shelf first? I know the vinyl strip at the front of the board needs to be glued to the trunk divider board at final installation, but the fit is so tight now I can't get the doggone board into place with the jute under it for mock-up. My Fisher Body Manual is no help. What's the trick to this, guys? Thanks.

28
Maintenance / Weird '68 turn signal problem...
« on: August 05, 2007, 03:49:49 AM »
  Hi, guys  :). I have my '68 running and am in the process of putting the wiring back in. I've encountered a very strange problem with the turn signals that makes absolutely no sense. The tail, marker and parking lights work fine, i.e. good grounds, bulbs properly phased in the sockets...etc. The brake lights work fine, as do the 4-way flashers. My problem is the turn signals don't work. There is no power going to the turn signals at all, yet when you move the lever to "temporary flash"  with the brake lights on, the bulb on that side in the back will cancel out and you can manually flash it. But when you "click" the lever to full flash on either side, both brake lights go dark and the front lights are still completly dead. The turn indicator lights in the dash don't work, although the gas gauge registers right. However, the dash lights don't work.
  The turn signal switch in the column was in perfect working order when I took the car apart, so I have no reason to believe it just went bad while the column was stored. Is it possible that the printed circuit in the dash pod has a short and that's preventing the turn signals and dash lights from working? It's a long shot, I know, but this makes no sense either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

29
To any of you guys who have put an engine in your 1st-Gen with more than 400hp, please take this to heart--keep a check on the axle tubes where the spring mounts are welded on if you race the car or abuse it much. The GM welds weren't that great, and I've personally had a spring perch rip out of the tube. On the way home from the drag strip one day in the '80s I noticed the car was wandering around in the rear and when I stopped and looked, the right-side traction bar and spring perch were crooked and hanging on by a mere 1" of weld! The perch had ripped right out of the axle tube from the torque of the engine. I nursed the car home and had the perches welded solid by a pro welder. Imagine if that 1" of weld had let go while the car was making tracks... Strangely enough, not long after this happened I found an old Popular Hot Rodding magazine at a newsstand where they tested a '68 Nickey 427 car, and dang--reinforcing the spring perches was one of the first things they advised. It does happen...

30
Mild Modifications / '68 console shifter detent
« on: June 09, 2007, 02:48:24 AM »
Does anyone know of the company that makes an NHRA-legal replacement detent that provides a positive reverse lockout for the '68 horseshoe shifter? I've seen these things in the past but can't remember who made (or makes) them. I want to use the console and shifter, but don't want to get kicked off the track when some overzealous, officious tech geek decides my car isn't legal because of the lack of a lockout. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, guys.

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