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61  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: April 22, 2006, 05:25:37 PM
Okay....sorry for the delay on getting back to this topic.   I've been crazy busy.

The final word is................ SUCCESS!!!!

Turns out the Relay Valve was bad.    It was tough to figure it out though, the Relay Valve mechanism was moving up and down in the barrell when I would turn the lights on and off....but there must have been a leak in it somewhere and not getting a full "switch".   I bought a repro as a last gasp because everything else is in perfect working condition.  Installed the new valve and BAM!

 The lights work flawlessly now, they pop open even, smooth and FAST.   

I am so JAZZED!!!  My RS lights have not worked in 6 years.  Undecided

FYI Rich...for some reason the repro actuators also work "backwards", I had to switch the connections at the relay valve for "proper" on/off

BAsically, all thats left of the original RS components in the car are the doors/mechanisms and the large vacuum tank under the fender.  Everything else has been replaced.   Shocked

Bushings, Actuators, Relay Valve, Headlight Switch, hoses etc.... 
62  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: March 22, 2006, 12:54:47 AM
Okay,  check me on this...

Tonight after thorougly thinking about the system and how it works according to the AIM diagram...even though mine is different (68)

Bear with me on this, the 68 system routes from the motor to the vacuum tank (1st nipple), back out of the vac tank(2nd nipple) with a yellow hose, then routes all the way back to the light switch (Black hose from the yellow T) and finally back to top of the Relay with the orange hose.  The 69  uses a check valve T.

Anyway...heres what I did.

I disconnected the black hose (at the yellow Tee) that goes all the way back to the light switch and disconnected the orange hose from top of the Relay.
I then took a spare piece of hose and directly connected the Yellow T to the Orange inlet of the Relay.
This completely isolates the dash light switch out of the system.

Started the car and the doors stay closed as they should, I then switched the override on the Relay to "open" and doors don't open.
At this point, I'm still getting excellent vacuum at the green hose nub at the relay...with the relay override open, I should be getting vacuum at the red nub and hoses.

This all tells me that the Relay is bad....Right? 
63  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: March 21, 2006, 02:44:20 AM
Oh more thing.  All my hoses are now modern Gates all black vacuum hoses.  I bought the pretty (and expensive) color coded kit and they rotted within 6 months...complete garbage.   I was so mad at that.   You'd think they could manufacture the hoses to last like modern hoses for that kind of money they charge.  Angry   

I'd prefer to have them correct color coded, but I am not going to spend $75.00 every 6 months for it.
64  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: March 21, 2006, 02:34:10 AM
THanks for the info Rich,

From what I hear, the repros I got are pretty good, they are CHQ brand...retooled from what I am told, I too heard about the early rerpos being crap.   

I already tried swapping the Green and REd lines at the Relay...nothing.    The only other thing I can think of is, when I started having problems with the system a while back, everything was new or rebuilt except for the light switch in the dash.  I figured, I would replace the light switch to see if it was the turned out that one of my original actuators that was rebuilt went bad....  So...the only difference from when they last worked (other than the repro actuators) is the new light switch (repro too)....I'm considering swapping back in my original GM switch.   That write up is great, but there are some differences in the 68 to 69 set up.   

I wish I could find my original GM relay to see what it says as far as the Red, Yellow, Green thing.  I called someone who has originals laying around and he confirmed they do say Red top, Yellow middle and Green bottom.
It is VERY interesting that your original pic shows it "backwards".   

I think 1st, I'll switch back to my original headlight switch and if thats not it, I'll buy another dang repro relay, those are the only two things I can think of. 

The key may be in the fact that you did the same thing I did - replaced original designed actuators with Pacific Rim repro c _ _ p - don't get me started.

When I did the same thing back in the summer of 2004, my new, repro actuators (acquired from Classic Industries) had two problems.  1) the vacuum connection on the cannisters wrere not oriented the same as the originals, which caused an interference issue on the back side of the cannister and the mounting bracket - relaitively minor, but still a nuisance that had to be dealt with.

Secondy, my headlight doors did exactly the same thing - closed when the light switch was pulled out and the lights were on and open when the light switch was pushed all the way and the lights were in the off position.  I wasted the better part of an afternoon chasing the connection at the light switch, at the relay valve, and then it occurred to me to swap the vacuum lines on the cannisters (actuators) and connect the red stripe line to the back (instead of to the front) and connect the green striped line to the front (instead of the back) of the cannister.  You could accomplish the same thing at the relay valve, but then to the astute eye it would be obvious that something was "amiss".

Bottom line is that the cannisters, at least the two that I got, operated bass ackwards.  Go figure.  Run a little experiment, swap the lines at the cannisters - I'll bet your relay valve is ok.

Attached Word document is a pretty good guide to the system, diagrams, etc.
65  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: March 20, 2006, 12:43:08 AM
Okay experts.

I just replaced my actuators, My originals that I had rebuilt years ago quit on me...actually only one of them went bad.  I bought some of the reproductions and installed them today.

Heres my problem:  The light doors (if open) when the car is NOT running will close as soon as the car is started, which is what they are supposed to do.  When I turn on the lights at the dash, the doors stay closed.  I also try to bypass by switching the Relay to the "open" position...but the doors still stay closed.
They were working previously, the only thing I can think of is this.  My Relay valve broke at the inlet from the light switch (red hose).  I epoxy'ed it and it seems to be  tight fit, but maybe it's the culprit...any ideas?

Also, in the assemby manual, the diagram shows the relay hoses as TOP=Green, Middle=Yellow, Bottom=Red.   Well on the relay itself, it shows TOP=Red, Middle= Yellow and Bottom=Green.   I never noticed that before. Any ideas on this?
66  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 2009 Camaro Pictures on: March 15, 2006, 01:55:22 PM
My .02 cents.

I absolutely love it...I love the retro look (even though they claim it is not "retro, it sure as hell is).  It's the most exciting thing to come out of GM in a long LONG time...most everything they design these days is a "rental car".   That and they're sticking "SS" badges on what I consider "unworthy" vehicles.  The GTO was a huge dissapointment stylewise, a Cavalier on steroids....but it does have the best interior GM has ever offered bar none.  The 4th gen, while beautiful in it's own right looks very tired now (surprise surprise being on a 20 year old chassis)

 This new Camaro Concept looks better than the C6 Vette as well as the Z06 to me...but I've always been a Camaro fan...not a Vette fan.  Wink

Lets hope they don't water it down and make another "rental" offering.
67  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Vinyl or Not? on: March 15, 2006, 01:31:58 PM
Was it much trouble (beyond the rust) preparing the roof for painting?
I've know guys would did away with their vinyl, but never heard them talk about sanding the roof to get it ready to paint.
Thanks for the info. Grin

Please vote!!!

Honestly, paint and body work is BLACK MAGIC to me...I let the body shop take care of it.  I know it wasn't too bad...the hardest part was getting the roof perfectly smooth for paint.
68  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Howdy! ...and a Fan blade question on: March 15, 2006, 01:29:22 PM
Thanks Kurt.

18" 5-blade fans are hard to find (in decent condition)  GM still carries a 17" 5-blade fan which is technically for a 60-67 Vette but has the correct 3" center to center holes for the fan clutch. 

Any reason going to a smaller 17" 5-blade fan would be a bad idea?
69  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Howdy! ...and a Fan blade question on: March 13, 2006, 09:30:26 PM
I guess I wasn't descriptive enough....

So...given the difference from SB to BB...the clutch itself must have a matching bolt pattern. 
70  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Howdy! ...and a Fan blade question on: March 13, 2006, 12:07:27 AM
Thanks Lake!  Smiley
71  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z/28 For Sale - Original & Documented! on: March 10, 2006, 06:46:51 PM
Gorgeous.  Shocked
72  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Vinyl or Not? on: March 10, 2006, 04:36:27 PM
MMMM ERT, did your car have rust when you removed the vinyl and was it at the bottom of the back window (like most 60s chevys) or elsewhere?

There was some slight surface rust under the vinyl in spots all over the roof.   ...and yes, the rear window tray had rust which is standard for any 1st gen.    Fortunetely, my car was an original Cali car and rust damage was minor.    The trunk pan was totally rotted out, had to replace it...someone left water in there.

I don't dislike the vinyl look...but I prefer 1st gens without it.  Wink
73  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Howdy! ...and a Fan blade question on: March 10, 2006, 02:24:42 PM

The center lines of the four bolt holes are in a 3" or a 3.25" diameter circle.

Thanks for the response Kurt.

I guess I'm still a bit confused, I have a small block so it should be the 3" diameter, correct?

The CRG page shows this:

Clutch Fans
In 1967 and 1968, the clutch fan was 18 inches in diameter, had five blades, and came in two types:

1967-68 fan for AC or K02 cars
For cars with hydraulic lifter engines with AC or K02 (except 1968 L34/L35 with K02), the 3789562 fan with a 3-inch diameter clutch-to-fan attachment bolt circle was installed. Three different fan clutch part numbers are listed as having been used with this fan, all having the matching 3-inch diameter bolt circle.

1967-68 fan for L78 and Z28 and 1968 L34/L35 with K02
The 3871276 fan was used on the 1967 and 1968 Z28 and L78, as well as 1968 L34/L35 with K02. The bolt circle diameter for the clutch-to-fan attachment was 3.25-inch.
74  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / 1968 Camaro Rally Sport RS vacuum hose routing diagram on: March 10, 2006, 01:42:08 AM
Looks like I need new vacuum actuators or possibly need to have my originals rebuilt.  Anyone have any luck with the new "GM" repproduction which are re-tooled and "guaranteed not to leak" versions?

I was looking around and I found this on Steves Camaro Parts site.  A great diagram for the 68 version RS hoses... Note that the 68 reservoir tank has two hose "nipples" where the 69 has only one.  Wink

75  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Vinyl or Not? on: March 10, 2006, 01:36:24 AM
I don't care for it so much.  MY car had it when I bought it, but I removed it when we restored/restified her.

I've only heard bad things with the vinyl roofs...rust etc.
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