Messages

31

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68 NOR build sheet

« on: September 07, 2013, 01:29:26 AM »

I found my UOIT sheet under the carpet, mine was  68 Norwood car.

Mike

32

Restoration / Re: Help finding replacement part

« on: August 07, 2013, 02:36:05 AM »

It comes as part of the 5 piece inner fender seal kits, you attach the rubber to your metal parts.  Don't lose the L-Shaped clip as they are hard to find

Most vendors carry them, see link to classic muscle in NC below

http://www.classicmuscle.com/p-5261-inner-fender-seal-kit-includes-3909121-3909123-3921853.aspx

Mike

33

Restoration / Re: Restoring Inside Raer View Mirror

« on: June 06, 2013, 03:40:32 AM »

I had my original mirror re-silvered by Chaudron Glass in Baltimore MD 410-685-1568.  Old school company, visiting their office was like going back in time.
Cost 40.00, I delivered item to them and picked it up.  They only re-silver mirrors once a month.
Very happy with the results.  I used a heat gun to soften the rubber and remove the mirror glass

Mike

34

General Discussion / Re: 68 factory air cars

« on: May 25, 2013, 06:40:36 PM »

Mike, I just checked out the pics of your restoration, nice job! Its not too often you see someone work out the details of a non-high performance model. Good for you! Can't wait to see it back on the road.

John

The video I posted of the engine on the dyno was riot, since it was a base 327 engine.  Glad I did the dyno, as full line was clogged and the carb had a few minor issues and I was able to touch up the engine before reinstalling in the engine bay.  At least it is broken in and ready to go

35

General Discussion / Re: 68 factory air cars

« on: May 25, 2013, 01:46:55 AM »

I too have a 1968 Convertible, RS 327/210hp w/ factory air and PG trans along with PS PB that has just completed a frame off rotisserie restoration and is back in my garage waiting for the dash, interior and top to be installed.  My vehicle was a good candidate for its second restoration, as it only needed a new trunk pan and rear floor pans as I had replaced all sheet metal in the mid 80 when GM parts were cheap.  In its current condition I had no trouble insuring it for $50K.  Impossible to put a fair value on yours without pictures and determining the extent of rust, but I can tell you unless you can do the body work yourself, restoration can very expensive.

The 2bbl carb is also unique to AC cars and can be difficult to locate, so I hope you still have the original one.

If you car is original I would be very interested in see original pictures.
 
Mike

36

General Discussion / Re: correct 67 early 68 subframe bolts

« on: February 28, 2013, 03:08:19 AM »

I purchased these used over the years, they are suppose to be for a 67, body mount positions 2 and 3.  I discovered the 68's had a different head.  Can anyone with a 67 confirm these are correct?  They also have the RBW head markings still visible on some.

Mike

37

Restoration / Re: 68 RS Conv Rear Harness Routing Help

« on: February 11, 2013, 12:21:46 AM »

Ed can you confirm on the convertible that the harness will go up & over the wheel well as in U25 and is between the trunk hinge and quarter panel area. 

Thanks

Mike

38

Restoration / Re: 68 RS Conv Rear Harness Routing Help

« on: February 10, 2013, 11:32:14 PM »

I am in the process of installing my rear harness, does someone have a pic of how it gets routed on the LH side inside the trunk?

Cannot find a page in AIM for the rear harness

Much appreciated

Mike

39

General Discussion / Re: who are the best on-line photo displayers

« on: December 30, 2012, 03:30:45 PM »

I use the picasa web albums, it is free and easy to use.  See the link in my profile, "The Build" and at the end is a link to the web albums.

I still have a lot more pictures to add and need to organize the photos and add more comments when time permits

Mike

40

Restoration / Re: Problems with glass bead blasting

« on: November 11, 2012, 04:34:40 AM »

Sounds like a similar table top model I have, I rigged a a very small shop vac that I can hang on the wall next to the cabinet and I had too much suction, I placed a plastic cap over the vacuum nozzle and punched a few holes in it to reduce the suction.  Yes gloves stand out when on but have no trouble working.  You will still have some media escape but not much as the vacuum helps a lot.  My problem is lighting, as the light with the cabinet never worked correctly so I bought a cheap led lamp and hand in the cabinet inside a plastic bag.  Good thing I prefer the wire wheel to media blasting

Mike

41

Maintenance / Re: Best source for lower ball joint?

« on: October 23, 2012, 11:25:54 AM »

Where are you shopping? I found Timkin bearings at NAPA and made in USA. I got wheel bearings and all my rear end bearings. I got my Moog parts from A local parts house and he ordered mine from somebody. They were made in USA though.

Went to Napa, they carried SFK, which were made in Mexico, looked at Timkin elsewhere and the box stated the package is made in USA but did not indicate the country of origin for the bearing.  Steve's Camaro lists Timkin bearings as made in USA, when I called the company rep. pulled the bearing and it doesn't show where it was made so I didn't order it.  lI am now looking for US made jack stands and Hein Werner are made in USA but the company is foreign owned.  It is just frustrating when I am willing to pay a higher price for a US quality, but it is getting harder to find.  The CHQ front end items were made in Taiwan which I hope is better quality than China.


I will mention one other thing, to my surprise I have started ordering items from Amazon.com, (my wife has Amazon Prime which gets me free 2 day shipping), have ordered Raybestos brake shoes, AC Delco belts, PS Return Hose etc, sure beats running around to local supply houses and making telephone calls.

Mike

42

Originality / Re: looking for orginal looking tie rod sleeves

« on: October 23, 2012, 11:17:54 AM »

Strange, because the set I purchased from CHQ earlier this year were not sand blasted and looked spot on compared to my originals, I decided to go with the CHQ instead of cleaning up the originals.

Mike

43

Maintenance / Re: Best source for lower ball joint?

« on: October 21, 2012, 02:39:31 PM »

I recently discovered that Moog doesn't mean made in USA anymore, looks like they are being outsourced overseas. 

Also good luck finding made in USA wheel bearings, North America (Mexico) was best I could do.

Mike

44

Maintenance / Re: Exhaust for '67 2 bbl single exhaust

« on: October 13, 2012, 05:21:29 PM »

Just installed a single exhaust on my restoration yesterday.  I purchased mine from Classic Exhaust in Ohio a few years back.  Not too many vendors are making single exhaust.
Installation was not to bad, needed a little persuasion getting the muffler angle just right, but definitely a 2 person job.  I am very happy with the results.  Also I believe Waldron's also makes a singlel exhaust

http://classicexhaustinc.com/

Mike

45

Restoration / Re: Need Powerglide Experts

« on: September 21, 2012, 10:45:59 AM »

When I took the transmission back to the shop that rebuilt it, I noticed when they tried to remove the converter, the transmission shaft pull out.  It looks like the shaft must have moved somehow when we attempted to mate the transmission to the engine.  They put the transmission back together and we will make another attempt to mate the trans with the engine.  I did find another picture of the same engine and it had the exact flex plate, so I know mine is original.

This has been very frustrating as I did this same replacement 25 years agon in my garage with no problems.


See the link in my profile for pictures of the restoration and a link to my picasa web pictures


Mike