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105669 Posts in 12339 Topics by 4754 Members
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16  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: WHAT IS A CLONE CAR? on: May 10, 2013, 10:50:33 AM
I believe after 911 the states cut off the flow of information. Back in the early 90's I did a (title search) through the Oregon DMV, you paid $20 and got a shack off paper work and at the bottom was the original owner. After contacting him I received pictures of the car he took in "69" plus the P O P. Unfortunately those days are long gone.

Actually had nothing to do with 911.  Federal privacy laws were enacted in the 90's that affected title searches  There are usaully ways to get around it, depending on the situations.   As with most federal laws that are implemented on the state level, there are wildly differering interpretations and practices from one state to another.

Some states have info going back decades.   Oklahoma has info from the 60's, BUT lost data on many cars in 1978 when they changed over to a new computer system.   So... it is hit and miss.  Unfortunately, mine is a miss.  They don't even have a record of me purchasing the car from my brother in 1976.   I say they don't have the info.   They really do.  It just isn't on a computer, so no one will spend the time going through old microfiche to find it.   If I KNEW for certain that my car was purchased originally in Oklahoma, I would find someone at the Tax Commission (we don't have a DMV) who would get me access to old records and I would do a search myself.  Unfortunately, I have no idea where the car was prior to 1975.
17  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z/28 questions on: May 10, 2013, 10:42:35 AM
OEM can rust from the inside out.  Granted, if the brake fluid is changed (flushed) every few years, it will never happen.

I have seen two brake lines that looked perfect from the outside, rusted through  from the inside resulting in brake failure.  One was a first gen Camaro.

Again, not likely, but possible.   I had to replace my original fuel line because someone had cut off both ends.  Went with stainless.  Figured it would be a good time to do brake lines as well.  I capped and saved all my original lines.  I had no sealing issues.  Yes, it is harder to bend.
18  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 0 rocker arms BIG or small 0 ? differences? on: May 04, 2013, 09:42:13 PM
I have a pile of each, so I am sure I have some little "O"s I can trade you.

Send me a PM and let me know how many.  It may be a few days before I dig them out.
19  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 0 rocker arms BIG or small 0 ? differences? on: May 04, 2013, 11:13:11 AM
If rebuilding an engine I'd not use used rockers. Why take a chance?

I have never considered it as taking a chance.  As noted, they are not the weak link.   I can't imagine any issue related to using a good used set of rockers and balls.  As long as there is no surface galling, there shouldn't be much to worry about.
20  Orphans - documentation or VIN-stamped drivetrains - in search of the original cars / 1969 - Orphans / Re: 69 Z 19N687352 Original Block on: May 02, 2013, 06:46:34 PM
Looks familiar now.  I believe Kurt commented on this one on another site.
21  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Starter nose for Z28 starter on: May 02, 2013, 06:36:19 PM
Very nice part.
Good luck with that auction.
22  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 0 rocker arms BIG or small 0 ? differences? on: May 02, 2013, 06:34:34 PM
Agreed.  Best to keep the parts matched.  However, mismatching parts without excessive wear is no reason to discard them, in my humble opinon.

And yes, the grooved balls are aftermarket.   The old GM hipo catalogue even encourages them on high lift cam apps.
23  Orphans - documentation or VIN-stamped drivetrains - in search of the original cars / 1969 - Orphans / Re: 69 Z 19N687352 Original Block on: May 02, 2013, 02:05:10 PM
The norm for most of the year is like 2 days to a week.  I have seen a couple that were same day!  I had one that was cast the 4th and assembled the 5th of the same month.

However, there seem to be some anomolies in the late May to August 69 time frame.  Normally, it would be a slow down for engine and transmission plants, because the car assembly plants would be tooling up for the new model year.   Norwood just forged ahead because of extended Camaro production.  Almost all the first week of Aug cars got some May dated components, and some even got some April components.   Very few Muncies dated June or July.   I looked at a couple of first week August Z's that were built within a day, and one had a June built motor, the other a very late July motor.

Speaking of dates, I have never seen a June or July of 69 YH ralley wheel.
24  Orphans - documentation or VIN-stamped drivetrains - in search of the original cars / 1969 - Orphans / Re: 69 Z 19N687352 Original Block on: May 02, 2013, 11:52:33 AM
Would like for Kurt to weigh in on that stamp.  D looks correct for the time frame, but May 22 to July 24 seems like a long time between casting and assembly.  And the V and the 4 seem awful light.

I guess June July were kind of odd normally being "down" months on the supply side.
25  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 0 rocker arms BIG or small 0 ? differences? on: May 02, 2013, 10:09:20 AM
the rockers with the triangle are they also high performance rocker arms ?
That is correct.   Chevy sold them over the counter for many years.
Have compared three different looking "O" sets (litte, big and sideways) with a "V" set side by side with calipers and micrometers, and can find no appreciable difference among any of the four.

Gary.  I always keep ball and rocker in sets.   But... I would not be afraid to use a set that had been mixed.  Just get them really clean, install, and reset your valve lash after initial run in and again in 500 miles (which you were going to do ANY WAY, right?)
26  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Starter nose for Z28 starter on: May 02, 2013, 10:03:26 AM
Gary:

Ideally, on a stick shift car you want the nose closed.  As your clutch wears, all the dust that is created flys around inside the bell housing.  No issue in an auto, but the debris can enter the end of the nose and contribute to wearing out the bushing.  Of course, even with the nose closed, the debris can enter from the other side, so I am not sure how much difference there would be long term in the real world.

Having said that, if you find an open nose that otherwise fits, it will work fine.  That bushing is really easy to replace, and even easier on an open nose starter.   I wouldn't hesitate to use an open nose for now, and keep a look out for the correct nose down the road.  One will turn up.
27  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Fuel Line Clip Restoration on: May 01, 2013, 05:48:06 PM
The repop vendor's kits are not very accurate.

My car had nothing but silver for the tab type clips for the 3/8 fuel line.  IIRC, the not tab clips in 3/8 were all black.

Only had two blue clips on the whole car, and they were brake line clips.  There were at least two vendors furnishing clips to GM and I am not at all convinced that the colors were exactly the same from one to another.

28  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: shocks on: April 29, 2013, 09:24:40 PM
Hard to beat Koni adjustables.
29  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 69 Z/28 Correct leaf springs, where to buy? on: April 22, 2013, 11:39:08 AM
Those are pretty darn close.  However, what I found, and you have confirmed is that the thickness of the metal used in the rebound clamps is thinner on the repop springs.  That is why I made my own.

However, you are correct, in that my color is just a little light.

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/520005/Re_69_Z_28_rear_axle_and_sprin#Post520005
30  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 1969 z28 rear brake backing plates on: April 21, 2013, 10:05:42 AM
The holes were not "punched" out at the factory.

Many times they were punched at the first brake job.  If there was a slight lip on the drum, the adjuster could only be accessed by punching out that knock out.  They do not need to be punched out if you already have it apart, and I would not do so.

Believe the self adjust lever was cad plated (not sure), but that is a rough environment, so they fade.

The park brake lever was natural, I believe, but again not 100% certain.

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