Original GM ball joints will have quite a bit of play LONG before they are a serious safety issue.  On first gen Camaros, it is usually tie rods and ilder arm that go first.

I know most guys go with Moog tie rods, but Raybestos makes a really good one with larger ball socket.  Can't remember what they call it, but it is the higher priced one of the two they offer.   Rock Auto has them at a good price.

They do not look exactly like the originals, but I consider parts like that to be wear items, and just don't worry too much about being a perfect match.  Just like I am not worried about having a 69 issue fan belt on  my car.

Unless really abused and left ungreased, the uppers rarely wear out.  I kept mine and replaced the boots only.  That way I didn't have to worry about rivets matching up.

Meant the switch on the clutch pedal, not the reverse light switch.
I believe the automatic cars have the neutral switch integrated with the reverse light switch.

Was pretty sure it took the round metal switch on the clutch pedal, but I have one of the plastic 1970 switches, and have no idea where it came from.

Thanks.

Did the late 69 manual trans cars use the white plastic switch used on the 70 models?

I know the early cars had the round metal switch.

My car is four speed with pwer brakes and I had both bumpers.
Can't help on the big block brake lines.

I believe after 911 the states cut off the flow of information. Back in the early 90's I did a (title search) through the Oregon DMV, you paid $20 and got a shack off paper work and at the bottom was the original owner. After contacting him I received pictures of the car he took in "69" plus the P O P. Unfortunately those days are long gone.

Actually had nothing to do with 911.  Federal privacy laws were enacted in the 90's that affected title searches  There are usaully ways to get around it, depending on the situations.   As with most federal laws that are implemented on the state level, there are wildly differering interpretations and practices from one state to another.

Some states have info going back decades.   Oklahoma has info from the 60's, BUT lost data on many cars in 1978 when they changed over to a new computer system.   So... it is hit and miss.  Unfortunately, mine is a miss.  They don't even have a record of me purchasing the car from my brother in 1976.   I say they don't have the info.   They really do.  It just isn't on a computer, so no one will spend the time going through old microfiche to find it.   If I KNEW for certain that my car was purchased originally in Oklahoma, I would find someone at the Tax Commission (we don't have a DMV) who would get me access to old records and I would do a search myself.  Unfortunately, I have no idea where the car was prior to 1975.

OEM can rust from the inside out.  Granted, if the brake fluid is changed (flushed) every few years, it will never happen.

I have seen two brake lines that looked perfect from the outside, rusted through  from the inside resulting in brake failure.  One was a first gen Camaro.

Again, not likely, but possible.   I had to replace my original fuel line because someone had cut off both ends.  Went with stainless.  Figured it would be a good time to do brake lines as well.  I capped and saved all my original lines.  I had no sealing issues.  Yes, it is harder to bend.

I have a pile of each, so I am sure I have some little "O"s I can trade you.

Send me a PM and let me know how many.  It may be a few days before I dig them out.

If rebuilding an engine I'd not use used rockers. Why take a chance?

I have never considered it as taking a chance.  As noted, they are not the weak link.   I can't imagine any issue related to using a good used set of rockers and balls.  As long as there is no surface galling, there shouldn't be much to worry about.

Looks familiar now.  I believe Kurt commented on this one on another site.

Very nice part.
Good luck with that auction.

Agreed.  Best to keep the parts matched.  However, mismatching parts without excessive wear is no reason to discard them, in my humble opinon.

And yes, the grooved balls are aftermarket.   The old GM hipo catalogue even encourages them on high lift cam apps.

The norm for most of the year is like 2 days to a week.  I have seen a couple that were same day!  I had one that was cast the 4th and assembled the 5th of the same month.

However, there seem to be some anomolies in the late May to August 69 time frame.  Normally, it would be a slow down for engine and transmission plants, because the car assembly plants would be tooling up for the new model year.   Norwood just forged ahead because of extended Camaro production.  Almost all the first week of Aug cars got some May dated components, and some even got some April components.   Very few Muncies dated June or July.   I looked at a couple of first week August Z's that were built within a day, and one had a June built motor, the other a very late July motor.

Speaking of dates, I have never seen a June or July of 69 YH ralley wheel.

Would like for Kurt to weigh in on that stamp.  D looks correct for the time frame, but May 22 to July 24 seems like a long time between casting and assembly.  And the V and the 4 seem awful light.

I guess June July were kind of odd normally being "down" months on the supply side.

the rockers with the triangle are they also high performance rocker arms ?
That is correct.   Chevy sold them over the counter for many years.
Have compared three different looking "O" sets (litte, big and sideways) with a "V" set side by side with calipers and micrometers, and can find no appreciable difference among any of the four.

Gary.  I always keep ball and rocker in sets.   But... I would not be afraid to use a set that had been mixed.  Just get them really clean, install, and reset your valve lash after initial run in and again in 500 miles (which you were going to do ANY WAY, right?)