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Messages - lynnbilodeau

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16
General Discussion / Re: Chev Muscle Docs/NCRS Data Report
« on: February 08, 2021, 06:45:02 PM »
Paul, I know you have tried on this one before, but my 69 Z/28 came from dealer 833 in Zone 23 (Oklahoma).

I always suspected Seltzer (in Yukon, just W of OKC).   Seltzer was bought by Alan Merrill in early 70's.  Merrill is dealer 594 in Zone 23.  That tells me they didn't likely keep the number that had been assigned to Seltzer.

Seltzer did sell a ZL-1.    #61.  CRG shows it as vin 124379N642927  Fathom green.  I could have sworn it was white.

Have you seen the NCRS report on that car?  If it is 833, that would confirm Seltzer is my selling dealer.

The other one I suspected is Scott Chevrolet in downtown OKC.    There was also a "Scott's Chevlrolet" somewhere in OK, but not the same dealer.

Thanks for any help.

17
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z28 RS Stunning color combo!
« on: February 08, 2021, 05:55:46 PM »
Subject car.

Who lists a Z for six figures and does NOT include pics of trim tag or engine stamp or rear stamp or trans stamp?

18
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z-28 Original -V- Reproduction 3932472
« on: December 09, 2020, 03:39:59 AM »
I didn't even know there were plans to repop that manifold.

19
Restorers like the O rockers as that is what came on the Z/28 and other solid lifter small blocks.   The slot is slighly longer than the slot in the hydraulic cammed 350.

I doubt a regular rocker would bind, but the longer slot provides some margin for error.   They later service replacement long slot rockers are identified with a V.   They are identical to the O rockers, but of course are not assembly line correct.   So, the pickiest of the picky will insist on the O rockers.  I have a few sets of them with the balls wire tied together, but have not looked at them in years.  While they do bring a premium, IMHO they are no better than a good set of aftermarket rockers.

20
General Discussion / Re: 1968 396/325 Stock Fuel pump pressure
« on: April 13, 2020, 03:06:43 AM »
Beware that almost every aftermarket fuel pump made recently has too stiff a spring and therefore too much pressure.   Over 7 psi and you are asking for trouble.

Invest in an inline fuel pressure gauge and check it before you run it.    I had three in a row register over 10 psi.

21
I have no personal experience, but just looked at the website.   Looks pretty goofy to me.

Horrible grammar.

"they think your price reasonable"

"classic cars huge demand overseas"
"Dealers sell you car to their customers & keep all $$$ over your asking price for their profit ... "

Not sure if this is the same Stephen Edwards, but if it is..... http://www2.ca3.uscourts.gov/opinarch/043105np.pdf

Also, I find it hard to believe they sell 61 cars a month to rich over seas buyers and movie stars, but when I tried searching the internet for ANYONE to report a car sale executed through his company I find zero.




22
General Discussion / Re: CE codes..how far out date wise?
« on: February 04, 2020, 03:28:07 PM »
Good point Kurt.  I have seen that with replacement rear axle housings.

23
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Z RS interesting description
« on: February 04, 2020, 03:24:40 PM »
"Original engine paint"

Really?

24
General Discussion / Re: CE codes..how far out date wise?
« on: February 03, 2020, 11:03:24 PM »
I worked at a Buick dealer.  We never stamped a partial vin on a replacement engine.

Yes, anything withing the 5 years would be technically correct.


25
General Discussion / Re: Original Color?
« on: February 01, 2020, 12:56:50 AM »
Frankly, one of the reasons I enjoy coming here to discuss all things first gen is that the threads rarely take ugly turns, as this one did.

Defining "restored" has little to do with the OP's question.  It is a valid topic of conversation; just not for this thread.

The OP asked a simple question:  does the color change affect value?

Yes it does.   Different amounts to different people, but the color change will automatically preclude a certain percentage of potential buyers of a "numbers" car.  I  went through this a while back helping a friend sell his original drivetrain Z/28 that went from FG with DG interior to Dusk Blue with black interior.   He still got a very good price for it, but a lot of guys were not even interested once they learned of the color change.

If the seller is willing to wait for that buyer who does not care about the color change, he or she will likely get ALMOST as much as if it were an original color.

At least the OP was advised to get the thing checked out.  I would go one further:  post clear pics of the tag, and all the stampings.   If they are obviously bogus, then the OP saves a boat load of money on the personal inspection by Jerry M.   If they look good, then go for the full inspection.  One can't be too careful.  I would guess about 1/2 of the 69 Z/28s advertised, are not what they are represented to be.

26
Restoration / Re: Gutting Original Y55
« on: November 10, 2019, 04:22:40 PM »
I had to cut my Delco Eye tube off.

I can't remember.  When the battery was fully charged did the eye show a green tint?

Because the bottome of the Braille battery (which is now on top, since I mounted upside down) is white, my Delco Eye shows white.  Would be really easy to pull it up and but a dab of green paint under it.

27
Restoration / Re: Gutting Original Y55
« on: November 10, 2019, 06:16:06 AM »
Here are the pics.

28
Restoration / Re: Gutting Original Y55
« on: November 10, 2019, 06:13:04 AM »
Went ahead and gutted it. Followed the procedure posted by Chick. Only thing I didn't do was protect the top as well as he did so I ended up with a few scratches. But then probably pretty normal for a batter that is probably 40 years old.

I drilled through the 3/8 threade holes for the side posts and just threaded them all the way through. I used 00 cables (probably overkill, but I will never have to worry about them not carrying the amperage. Used very short 3/8 standard thread bolts to attach the cables on the inside. Made sure they would not interfere with the outside bolts from the side post cables.

Used a Braille racing lightweight AGM and just mounted it upside down. It is way more powerful than the original battery. I have the exact same battery in my 69 Opel GT, and it doesn't lose a charge even when sitting for a month at a time without a tender. I had read that they do not stay charged well when not driven regularly, but that has not been my experience.

After shooting these pics, and before attaching a bottom plate made from polycarbonate, I stuffed some more hard closed cell flexible foam in all the nooks and crannies, just so it wouldn't rattle around.

I glued some paint sticks together to make sure the battery stayed in place, then attached the bottom plat with epoxy.

Pretty pleased with the results. And it sure is easier to put in and out because it is much lighter.


29
Restoration / Re: Gutting Original Y55
« on: August 24, 2019, 02:29:19 PM »
I am getting ready to do something similar with my R89S battery.

Although pricey, I plan to use a Braille battery.  Not fumes at all.  More CCA available.

Started a thread here:  https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=151420

Got the acid drained and completely neutralized last night.  My garage is such a huge mess right now, so I need to clean it up a bit, but will document this procedure.

30
General Discussion / Re: Interesting period photos.... :)
« on: August 23, 2019, 02:37:55 AM »
The picture is not cooperating! Wants to rotate for some reason...

Nice.  Studebakers rock.   My 53 Commander has a lock up torque converer.  What year did GM finally get around to that?  83?  84?

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