Messages

871

1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N518346 - Z/28 engine block

« on: February 26, 2013, 08:39:36 PM »

Well it is for sale or trade. I just put on Craiglist Delaware and I have a post on T.C. in the classified forum, and What's it Worth forum. Check it out if your interested let me know. Just PM me and we can talk.

Hey Mods, I hope I didn't over step here.

Gary

Interesting. My 386 block cast date is I 10 8; Assembly date is 0912DZ. Vin 516355. we're pretty close to each other. So your block no. pops up every now and again. Wonder how often that happened? Yours is an orphan? Maybe I should adopt in case I ever need a replacement block.

Interesting. My 386 block cast date is I 10 8; Assembly date is 0912DZ. Vin 516355. we're pretty close to each other. So your block no. pops up every now and again. Wonder how often that happened? Yours is an orphan? Maybe I should adopt in case I ever need a replacement block.

872

1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N518346 - Z/28 engine block

« on: February 26, 2013, 06:22:00 PM »

Here are the pics I sent to Kurt.

873

1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N518346 - Z/28 engine block

« on: February 26, 2013, 09:16:22 AM »

There is a small write up on this block casting. Check out this link. Read around the bottom of the block casting write up. There really hasn't been anything more on that casting number.

http://www.camaros.org/drivetrain.shtml#BlockCast

Wow. The 512 block I have is 10 before this one 19N518336 and V1003DZ It's an orphan. Hey Kurt did I ever add this to the orphan list? I can remember, it's been a long time now.

What's the 512 refer to? I thought block casting 386 at this time?

874

Originality / Re: 4053 Carb question.

« on: February 26, 2013, 09:04:41 AM »

I am currently using an 0881 dated service replacement 4053 and has the hex head screws but can't remember right now if the pull off is straight or curved. I'll have to go to the garage and look. Too cold out right now though. Can't wait for some decent pics for comparisons.

Gary,
The later service replacement 4053s have a thicker baseplate, to reduce tendency to crack, and some of the bowl screws have different heads to the assembly line versions (can't recall the details off the top of my head, will have to get back to you).
You're also correct in that the choke pull-off neck should be curved on an original 4053.
There are pictures of these details here: http://www.camaros.org/carb.shtml#holl

875

Originality / Re: 4053 Carb question.

« on: February 26, 2013, 06:27:35 AM »

Great, I appreciate the time spent.

Give me a couple of days to fish them out, and I'll be glad to share pics of 2 original 4053's, 1-68, 1-69, plus the balance of parts from an early Holley 4053 reproduction I parted out (bought the carb in the 80's when they first started repopping them, sold the center section, 4 digit date, and kept the bowls, throttle plate, metering blocks, and all small parts intact to rebuild my 4346 for the 375 horse).

I really wish the Holley Custom Shop was still in Springfield, TN - they used to take your Holley in, completely rebuild it, replace any and all worn parts with new (proper part #'s !), restore and replate ones they didn't have, and bench it and send it back to you for about $400.00. I don't know if they still offer that service, but it was great while it lasted here. They closed that location down, moved it back to Bowling Green years back.

Regards,
Steve

876

Originality / 4053 Carb question.

« on: February 26, 2013, 03:33:24 AM »

Hey guys, I've been looking at 4053 carbs really hard the past couple of days on ebay. Some say 'ORIGINAL' and some say new. What kind of differences are there between an original and the new ones that are being sold. Two things I see that are claring on both is, no sight holes on the float bowls  to check float level and the dash pot, some call it a vacuum take off, the tit is straight on the new ones and curved on the originals. Anything else that is different? I suppose things get changed thru time but if you are looking for a complete original core like I am you you really have to know what your looking for. Anybody have any pics to share of all aspects of the 4053? I want to find a core to rebuild myself for my car, but what I see is nill on that and the prices for so called restored or new carbs are over the top...for me anyway.


Thanks

877

1969 - Orphans / Re: 9N518346 - Z/28 engine block

« on: February 24, 2013, 12:01:50 AM »

I know this an old post but I had to add to it.

Wow. The 512 block I have is 10 before this one 19N518336 and V1003DZ It's an orphan. Hey Kurt did I ever add this to the orphan list? I can remember, it's been a long time now.

878

Originality / Re: 69 L48 - 2 or 4 bolt mains

« on: February 23, 2013, 10:04:25 PM »

My first 69 SS350 was a 4 bolt block with steel crank. I remember this car very well. Check out my story.

Back in 75 my first 69 Camaro was an early built car, SS 350, black, non-vinyl top, standard black interior, red SS stripes, short rear spoiler, 3 speed on the floor, no console or other gauges, 12 bolt 3.55's, 350/300 engine. I pulled the engine to rebuild it and dropped in a built 327. What a dumb A I was, but I didn't know what was what then. When I tore the engine apart it had 4 bolt mains and a steel crank. The block sat in my bedroom closet for months and when I moved to base housing at Dover AFB my memory gets a little foggy here. Not sure what happened to it. I do know that I had a friend remove the 3 speed and install a 4 speed but he kept the 3 speed. I believe it was a saginaw. I know this post is about the 2 or 4 bolt question but the more I find out about my Z the more I remember how much of an idiot I was when I had the SS. Heck I even installed Thrush side pipes that had the louvers in the covers on it. Sounded too much like a corvette, so I removed and sold them. I still have the original chrome aftermarket tailpipes that where on that car too. I think they were Wagners but not sure. If I'm not mistaken it was sold to some kid in Havre Degrace Maryland and totaled shortly after I got orders to go to England. I was really sad when I heard that. I think I have a pic of me, my first wife and my oldest boy standing in front of that car somewhere. I'll look if anyone is interested.

879

Restoration / Re: Where to send starter for rebuild.

« on: February 23, 2013, 05:02:29 AM »

Yeah I can rebuild it. I have done 3 or 4 but only to the extent of installing new brushs. I have replaced a few bendix as well but this one I think needs going over. It's pretty cruddy from sitting for a long long time. It was given to me when I bought the car 12 years ago and it has a load of caked on oil and dirt, and I don't know WHAT'S inside the case. I haven't tried to spin it. I really want to let an expert do it this time. I'm using a gear reduction starter now that I like but I would like to at least have the option of going back to the factory one if I need it.

I have another question too. Wouldn't I have to change the nose on the starter to use with a 168 tooth flywheel? I'm using a #621 bellhousing with an 11" clutch set up with a gear reduction starter.

Would anyone like to do it for me?

Thanks guys.

Hey Lynn I posted more about the pistons and rods on the what's it worth post I put on T.C. for that 512 DZ block.

880

Restoration / Re: Where to send starter for rebuild.

« on: February 23, 2013, 02:06:31 AM »

OK guys I'll google that and see if I can find somewhere close to my location.

881

Restoration / Re: Where to send starter for rebuild.

« on: February 23, 2013, 12:20:33 AM »

I didn't see anything locally some electric motor shops. I tried a place down the road from me and he said no he wouldn't touch it. I assumed it was too small a job for them. Ill check again. When I googled I only found mostly how to R and R  them. I do have a Hemmings I was going to look thru as well.

I was thinking of sending mine to Jerry M but I really don't want to have it restored just make it functional. Do you think he would do that? I was looking for someone that I could trust so I knew I was going to get back the same starter.

882

Restoration / Where to send starter for rebuild.

« on: February 22, 2013, 09:13:02 PM »

Can anyone recommend someone that could rebuild my factory Z starter? I'm just looking to have it rebuilt and NOT restored. I have done a few in the past myself but I want an expert to check mine out. It's been sitting a long time and not sure what all it needs. Can't find anyone locally to do it.

Thanks.

883

Originality / Re: Question about gas gauge resistor

« on: February 15, 2013, 01:01:37 PM »

OK thanks Mark. I know what happened then. Although it's been a few years back I ordered the resistor from Rick's and they must have given me the temp resistor instead of the fuel resistor. Things happen I suppose. Oh well, at least I can put that to bed now.

884

Originality / Re: Question about gas gauge resistor

« on: February 15, 2013, 05:01:18 AM »

ok. I checked the loose gauge with the ohm meter and it reads 43.0 I also checked the resistor I bought and it reads 90.0.

On the loose gauge at the bottom of the face it has AC MADE IN USA 6431022. I can't check the other gauge, it's in the console at the moment.

885

Originality / Re: Question about gas gauge resistor

« on: February 15, 2013, 04:31:19 AM »

Hi Mark. Both gauges are GM originals as far as I know. One is in the console and one isn't, anyway to make sure, I can check the one that's out? Is there a breakdown, schematic drawing, picture or something I can compare how these are put together? The problem I have is when I install the resister it goes to full now that you say that. I've been really curious about it. I was told several times the resister should be there, but like I said when I install it the needle goes to full and stays there. How do I check the resister? Just touch the OHM meter + - leads to the mount holes and see what it reads correct?

Thanks. I really don't want to fool with this again this year. What about the sending unit? Maybe bad?