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Messages - jeff68

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Guess I need to go get one.  Kloter Farms?
Yes indeed.  They built exactly what I wanted. 

If you are worried about the Camaro having a safe place in your regular garage, then look into an industrial curtain.  My Camaro resides behind one.  It keeps the area clean, allows me to dehumidify a small area, and it has stopped various projectiles from damaging the car.  I got mine from

^^That's where I put everything else so the Camaro can fit in the real garage.  :)

General Discussion / My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!
« on: August 05, 2015, 07:14:48 PM »
I finally got around to installing a set of NOS P01 wheel covers on my 68 L30/M20 convertible, and I want to show it off.

The car is now set up like it was for the majority of the 160,000 miles it covered with my Dad behind the wheel.  Although not factory-correct, my father ran nothing but RWL Polyglas F70-14 tires throughout the life of the car.  Seems appropriate to keep running them.

Comparison of 7/6/1968 and 8/1/2015:

General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« on: August 05, 2015, 05:46:15 PM »
Well, Danny got the last of my used T-3 headlights (he always seems to be one step ahead).  I have a NOS pair still in the Guide boxes, but want them to stay as a pair.  Send me a PM if you need more info on them.

General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« on: August 05, 2015, 05:07:52 PM »
Hey Jeff I would still be interested in what you have since I am just starting out here... :)
That's fine with me, as long as Danny doesn't want them. 

Also, if you guys are going as far as having the correct wheel weights, do you have the correct T-3 headlights?

Maintenance / Re: 7029202 Q-jet Issues
« on: August 05, 2015, 01:42:42 AM »
My worst problem is a heli-coiled inlet. Someone butchered the gasket sealing surface around the inlet fitting at the same time - my worst headache now. Hopefully I can get it sealed.
I had a very small leak at my inlet due to a tiny 'ding' on the sealing surface.  I ended up using one of the thicker type nylon gaskets to fix it ( IIRC it was a Holley part).  I cleaned everything really well, then used a little grease between the gasket and the inlet fitting.  This allowed the gasket to stay in place relative to the carb body, and push down into the ding.  I marked the gasket to make sure it didn't turn, and continued to re-tighten the inlet fitting every few days as the nylon gasket conformed to the carb body.

General Discussion / Re: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow
« on: August 04, 2015, 11:33:43 PM »
Here is some of the correct batch that I found. Will be on the look-out for more.. D
I have four MICRO 1 "winged" weights just as you pictured.  1 is mint, 1 has a small hammer ding in the middle, and 2 only have minor squishing of the text in a spot.
As long as you are going to use them yourself, or "pay it forward" to the next guy, then PM me and we'll work out how to get them to you.

Originality / Re: M21 Correct Oil
« on: August 04, 2015, 11:23:09 PM »
Sorry I'm a little late to the game on this one, but I've had to deal with the issue of yellow metal corrosion and gear lubes at work. 

The issue really isn't GL-4 vs. GL-5.  Some people claim that the GL-5 gear oils attacks yellow metals, but most gear oil manufacturers now use non-active sulfur phosphorus EP (extreme pressure) additives which don't attack the yellow metals.  Also, even if it is the 'old' type additive, yellow metal attack usually doesn't occur until the temperature gets to about 240F - hopefully above the temp that any of your internal gearbox components experience.

The problem with finding a gear oil for use in transmissions is finding one without Limited Slip (LS) additives. My personal experience is that the LS additives are usually what gives you problems with your synchros and causes grinding upon shifting.

So, if you can find a GL-4 or GL-5 that doesn't state that it has LS additives, then you should still be OK using it in your transmission. I have yet to find any GL-5 locally that does not contain LS additives. I used to be able to find Exxon Superflo 80W80 GL-5 without LS additives, but I believe it is no longer available.

I use CRC StaLube GL-4 85W90 gear oil in my M20.

Originality / Re: Parts missing from factory
« on: May 27, 2015, 08:24:51 PM »
My 68 Camaro was (and still is) missing the screws holding the dash pad to the dash sheet metal in the area above the glove box. 

^^Funny.  I went out to the garage late last night and figured I'd just check things out and put together a plan for swapping the gauge this weekend.  Next thing I know, I'm coming out of some sort of time warp and everything is done.  Not one picture taken.

I installed the new AAW volt gauge tonight.  Fairly simple install.  Works as expected.  The face of the gauge is slightly less 'brushed' than the originals, which is fairly evident when on the workbench under plenty of fluorescent light.  Luckily, it isn't too noticeable when installed in the car and I bet 99% of people looking at the car wouldn't even notice.

Yes, exactly that, but not only to isolate/insulate, but to join the two ammeter wires together again.
I guess you could make your own link from a piece of heavy gauge wire with a male spade crimped to each end, but there may still be some bare metal showing which would need to be insulated, perhaps some heatshrink at each end covering over any bare spade that might be showing?
It is my understanding that I can simply unplug the existing ammeter.  Why would I need to join the 2 wires going to the ammeter?  Remember, this is a factory ammeter, which isn't a 'traditional' ammeter.

You mean something to put into the existing ammeter plug to isolate it?  If so, then no they don't provide anything.
My intention is to isolate/insulate the existing ammeter plug so I don't make any permanent modifications, then wire it as you suggested.

A voltmeter is more informative..
Agreed.  That is one of my reasons for switching to it.

I actually received the gauge.  It is a gauge made by Classic Instruments, and it is packaged in a AAW box.  The face of the gauge was bent & dented, apparently from lack of adequate packing by the manufacturer, so back it goes.  Another one is on its way.  Hopefully it is in better shape, but if they are all packed the same way it might not be any better.

Maintenance / Re: Convertible Top Cleaner
« on: May 07, 2015, 04:56:18 PM »
Keeping a white convertible top looking nice is a real PITA.  I would suggest a mild soap and a soft-bristled scrub brush as a starting point.  As you stated, don't use any harsh cleaners or bleach.  Back before I restored my convertible, I tried all sorts of cleaners (including some kitchen abrasive type cleaners, eek) and could never get the top completely clean.  I now have a new top, but know it will slowly get dirty. 

Once you get the top clean, if it is still discolored there may not be much you can do about it, short of using a dye or something like SEM Color Coat.

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