Messages

46

Mild Modifications / Re: Voltage Regulator - Solid State - Ammeter Needle Vibrating

« on: August 11, 2015, 09:13:26 PM »

^Hmmm.  I never remember getting directions with my original VR715, so it is quite possible that I connected it before it had a ground (but I always disconnect the battery before doing any such work, so I'm not sure it would matter).  This time around, I'm going to make absolutely sure that I do it right.  This VR does have rubber mounts, so it uses a ground wire.

I never had any lost connection, battery or overcharging issues.

47

Mild Modifications / Re: Voltage Regulator - Solid State - Ammeter Needle Vibrating

« on: August 11, 2015, 03:15:35 PM »

How did you test those?

There was a procedure in the service manual.  You test resistance in one direction, then switch leads and check it in the other.  It only said that resistance should be high in one direction and low in the other.  But, if I had a bad diode then I should see reduced alternator output.  The alternator appears to have no problem keeping up with load.

I spent last night taking apart & cleaning every connection I could get to, including all grounds and positive connections at the distribution block & alternator.  While none of them looked particularly bad, they didn't look all that great.

After sitting for 2 days, battery voltage is right at 12.6V, which is perfect.  I turned on the lights for a little bit, and the battery was right back at 12.6V after shutting them off.  While just a basic test, I would expect to see less than 12.6V if the battery were bad.

I ordered another Wells VR715, and I will try installing as-is (not swapping the guts into my original VR).  I'm going to pay very close attention to the ground at the VR - I was even thinking of running a dedicated ground directly from the battery cable to the VR.  If that doesn't help, I'll try to go to DJ's and have him check out my alternator.

48

Mild Modifications / Re: Voltage Regulator - Solid State - Ammeter Needle Vibrating

« on: August 09, 2015, 11:35:32 PM »

One more thing-
What is the purpose of the capacitor mounted to the voltage regulator?  I don't see anything in the manual about checking it or if it has any impact whatsoever on the function of the regulator.  Is it noise suppression only? 

49

Mild Modifications / Re: Voltage Regulator - Solid State - Ammeter Needle Vibrating

« on: August 09, 2015, 07:58:06 PM »

I'll try to find somewhere that can bench test the alternator.  It's the original alternator, and it was rebuilt & tested about 10-12 years ago (I believe that it only needed new bearings & brushes).  However, it only has a few hundred miles of use on it.

I did the tests for the diodes as outlined in the factory service manual.  All tests failed.  Interesting - I must be doing something wrong. 

The alternator has "1D20" stamped on the top.  Can I still get parts for this?  Is there anyone who specializes in testing/rebuilding these things?

The alternator still seems to charge fine - it doesn't go outside of the limits as specified in the manual.

50

Mild Modifications / Re: Voltage Regulator - Solid State - Ammeter Needle Vibrating

« on: August 09, 2015, 04:08:37 PM »

UPDATE:
I replaced the factory ammeter with a voltmeter.  I noticed that the voltmeter gauge needle pulses between 13V and 15V when driving and continues to pulse when I let the vehicle idle.  The pulse from 13 to 15 back to 13V takes about 2 seconds.  I can hear the alternator cycling between being loaded and and not charging (that faint whine it makes when under load).  As soon as I apply a load at idle (turn on headlights), it steadies out to about 14V and stays there regardless of load or rpm.  However, as soon as I take it for a ride it starts pulsing again.

So, I installed a NOS Delco 515 voltage regulator (dated in 1968).  Hooked it up, and it seems much 'smoother' than the solid state wells VR715.  The voltmeter needle still moves between about 13V and 15V during normal driving, but it doesn't seem to pulse like the solid state unit did.

I guess I'll just leave the old Delco unit in there.  Anyone see any reason not to use it?

51

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 08, 2015, 07:37:32 PM »

Very nice car. Looks great. Are those the original plates?

  They are reproductions of the originals.  I have the originals, and they are really beat up.  I wanted to keep them 'as-is' vs. having them restored.

52

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 01:56:12 PM »

The rear is a 3.07 ratio.  My Dad set it up for highway cruising, but it actually works fairly well around town.  However, the rear end will still step out when getting on it in first gear, and instead of having to shift I can concentrate on keeping it pointed in the right direction.  So I guess it's a good compromise.  IIRC, redline in first gear is about 60mph.  The L30 is a great little engine.  When cruising around town I can basically put it in whatever gear I want depending upon the noises I want to hear.

53

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 12:10:06 PM »

what happen to the trailer hitch?

I still have it, along with the trailer wiring.  I thought about putting it back on, but I just can't do it.

54

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 12:08:41 PM »

Nice Garage too. How think is the curtain?

I bought the house for the garage, back before getting married (translation: I was still making the decisions about that kind of stuff). 
The curtain is 18-ounce top & bottom with a 20-mil clear section.  I got the optional chain weight pocket on the bottom, and adding the chain really keeps the curtain in place.

55

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 03:24:26 AM »

^^ Thank you.  Funny, my Dad told me that when he ordered the car he wanted it to be low-key, kind of a sleeper.  To this day, that's just what it is.  He said he just had to put the Polyglas tires on it, and they are the only noticeable thing that even hints at it being a 'performance' car.  You can't see the L30 327, M20 4-speed, F41 suspension, N10 dual exhaust, etc., from the outside. 

56

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 01:46:16 AM »

...and that would be perfect to section some areas off.

It's great.  They will make whatever size & colors you want.  Very reasonably priced too.  Not the best picture, but you get the idea:

57

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 01:33:30 AM »

Are those her original plates too?

The car had GU 875 on it all its life - it is actually the plate that my Dad got back when he started driving in CT.  I still have the old original plates - the actual ones that were on the car - but they are a little beat up.  I had reproduction plates made, and they are VERY close to the originals.  The tag number has been passed down to me, and it is currently on my daily driver.

58

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 07, 2015, 12:01:18 AM »

I actually installed the gas cap.  It's a NOS cap that I bought ages ago.

59

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 06, 2015, 01:38:47 PM »

Thanks for all the kind words.  I used to have rally wheels on it, but I'm very happy with my decision to run the original wheel covers.
Here are a few more pics:




I know, not the correct air cleaner, but it sounds so good with this one on it.

60

General Discussion / Re: My 68 L30/M20 - Now With Correct P01 Wheel Covers!

« on: August 06, 2015, 01:33:51 PM »

How much id the version you bought cost? 

Mine is a 10' x 20' with an insulated garage door and some custom side windows.  I think I spent a little over $5k including site prep.