Messages

331

Restoration / Re: Wheel lip mldgs needed

« on: January 13, 2008, 06:36:40 PM »

The moldings are anodized aluminum.  The anodizing is so hard that it is almost impossible to polish.  I have tried with no luck (on an anodized headlight bezel).  Now, the anodizing can be chemically removed and the moldings straightened/polished.  However, IMO they will not look correct.  I had a set stripped & polished, but they just looked to shiney.  The original anodizing has a slightly dull look to it. 
I ended up going with a set of really old NOS moldings that I found about 7 years ago for $150.  Luckily, when I unwrapped them they were in perfect shape.

332

Restoration / Re: The story of my 67 Z/28 now undergoing restoration

« on: January 13, 2008, 06:29:19 PM »

Great story.  I remember how excited I was when I realized that my original owner numbers-matching 68 convertible was an L30/M20.  You must have been REALLY excited!  Have fun with the restoration.

333

Restoration / Re: License Plate Restoration

« on: January 13, 2008, 06:18:25 PM »

Thanks for the responses.  I was going to have the plates restored before going to register the car, but I figure that I better go to the DMV with the unrestored plates.

Now, my problem is that the number on these old plates is still valid and I actually have it on my 2005 Subaru WRX (obviously, it is on a current style plate).  My father didn't want to give up the number since he got it back in 1943 when he turned 16, so he transferred the number to me when he moved to Maine many years ago.  I'm wondering if the DMV will allow me to run an old plate if the registration number is still valid.  I guess I'll figure that one out when the time comes.

334

Maintenance / Re: Flat spots on Bias-ply tires

« on: January 10, 2008, 06:45:09 PM »

Not that it helps get rid of the flat spots, but most tire manufacturers recommend over inflating the tires (10-15% IIRC) if the vehicle is going to be stored for any extended period of time.  Check with Coker to get their input for their tires. 
I have used the over-inflation method with great success on both radial tires and bias-ply tires (although the bias-ply tires always had a little flat-spotting in the spring).  I also try to roll my stored cars about 1-2 feet every week to avoid flat spots.   

335

Restoration / License Plate Restoration

« on: January 06, 2008, 04:33:34 PM »

In CT, we are allowed to run a license plate from the year of manufacture of the car.  Well, I have the plates that were on my car when it was originally registered when new, but they are in pretty tough shape.  One of them actually has tears in the metal around the mounting holes.

Has anyone had their old license plates restored?  I see that there are quite a few places that do this type of work, but I wanted to get some feedback from people with experience. 

Thanks,
Jeff

336

Restoration / Re: Clear Coats/Rust Prevention?

« on: December 13, 2007, 12:31:31 AM »

I have used the Eastwood satin clear for bare metal on both silver and gold cad with excellent results.  You can barely notice it.  It did not darken the gold cad or take away from any of the hues.

337

General Discussion / Re: Voltage regulator conversion to electonic

« on: December 05, 2007, 07:19:14 PM »

Dave-
I don't see why you couldn't  do what you are suggesting.  Once you make the cuts, the resistor will be isolated.  If you want, it looks like you only really need to make one of the cuts to isolate the resistor.
-Jeff

338

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 25, 2007, 05:23:18 PM »

I just finished installing the RPVs in my original MC.  Not too bad of a job. 
Here are a few diagrams showing the RPV (check) valves:



I couldn't get the supplied 6-32 self-tapping screw to 'start', so I drilled & tapped the existing seats.
A little grease (Permatex brake caliper grease that is compatible with all brake system rubber parts) on the drill to capture the brass chips:


Same goes for the tap:


Tapping the seat:


Install the tube nut, then install a 6-32 screw long enough to engage all the threads you just tapped:


Hold the screw from turning and back out the tube nut:


Here is one of the original seats after removal:


Clean everything thoroughly, then install the RPV, then the seat, then the tube nut, and tighten the tube nut until the seat bottoms out.  Do the same on the other port and you are done.  The finished project:


Sorry I forgot to take pictures of the actual valves.  When I got to that part I guess I got a little anxious to get everything installed.

Thanks again to Steve for all his help.

-Jeff

339

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 23, 2007, 12:30:47 AM »

Yes, the drill bit is an excellent idea.  I just used the flat end of a small bit on my MC, and I'm now 100% sure that SSBC did not install the required RPVs.
Steve-  Wouldn't it make sense that red67l78's MC only has one RPV since it is a disc brake car?

340

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 22, 2007, 12:37:48 AM »

Steve-
Yeah, you're right about re-using the seats.  I came to the same conclusion after thinking about it for a little bit.

Funny, I actually called the local Advance Auto right after I posted and they told me they didn't sell the Raybestos kit, even after I gave them the part number.  I ended up ordering the Raybestos kit through a local CarQuest.  They will have it on Friday.  I hope that the quality will be better than the NAPA kit, but, like you said, they are probably the same manufacturer.
-Jeff

341

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 21, 2007, 08:56:32 PM »

OK, I can confirm that the NAPA UP472 rebuild kit comes with the RPVs.  It also comes with what I assume are the self-tapping screws needed to pull the original seats.  However, the kit that came in from the warehouse has brass seats that were all corroded.  I didn't dare use them, so they ordered another kit for me. 

I wonder if it is possible to pull the existing seats without damaging them and then re-install them.  The new seats had a counterbore on the back side that the RPV sits in.  Maybe the existing seats don't have this since there are no RPVs in there.  Anyhow, I'll try to keep you posted on my progress.

342

Restoration / Re: 1968 Camaro restoration

« on: November 19, 2007, 05:41:04 PM »

Have you checked out Jeff Lilly Restorations?  I don't have any experience with them, but their work looks nice.
Check out the web site:  http://www.jefflilly.com/

343

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 18, 2007, 07:25:01 PM »

Does anyone have a pic of the check valve?  I do not know what one looks like, so I cant tell If I have any.

Check out the picture of the NAPA rebuild kit.  They are the 2 small rubber 'caps' with the springs:
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=UP&PartNumber=472&Description=Brake+Master+Cylinder+Kit

344

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 18, 2007, 07:22:23 PM »

Steve-
Yes, I measured and it's 1/4".  I haven't pulled them yet.  I don't want to take anything apart until I have the replacement parts in-hand.
-Jeff

345

Originality / Re: 67 68 Camaro manual drum brakes

« on: November 18, 2007, 06:24:47 PM »

I had to order the rebuild kit at NAPA.  I found the tubing nut for the forward hole no problem.  The rear hole appears to be some size that nobody at NAPA has ever seen before.    Luckily, I was searching around in a bunch of plumbing 'stuff' that I have and I found a nut with the correct threads (it was part of a shut-off valve for a pressure washer).  It's not quite deep enough to install the seat, but it has internal threads, so I can install a bolt/jam nut into it and grind down the outside hex of the nut to make a nice little installation tool.  I hope it works.