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Topics - 67L48

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16
Maintenance / Shocks -- What brand for a 67 350?
« on: July 15, 2008, 09:25:08 PM »
I don't want anything that is visible.  I really like the looks of the Edelbrock classic shocks -- nice muted grey.  


However, I'm not wild about the $85+ per shock pricetag.  Any dos and don'ts on getting new shocks for a 67?  Thanks.

17
Maintenance / Now the spark plugs are fouling -- carb overhaul?
« on: June 18, 2008, 08:14:52 PM »
Started a new thread that better describes the symptom I'm now dealing with ...

Bad news.  Installed all the new parts and the car ran great.  Took a 5 mile drive and went back to the garage.  After sitting, the car had a hard time starting and emitted quite a bit of smoke on the restart.  So, the mechanic pulled the plugs and found that they were already starting to foul.  The thought is that carb is leaking fuel through the internals and that it needs a complete overhaul, as he's done all he can do to tune the carb.  They want $425 for the carb overhaul, P&L (beyond what I'm already into it for). 

Does this sound correct?  Thoughts?

18
Maintenance / Cylinder Not Firing - Car in the Shop - What to Expect?
« on: June 17, 2008, 09:40:59 PM »
1967 350. Powerglide.  Stock.

Late last summer, the car started running like crap.  Let it sit over the winter.  Checked the spark plugs.  Looked fine and that was about the exent of my engine diagnostic abilities.  Checked the carb air/fuel mixtures and it didn't seem to do anything to improve or worsent the engine behavior.  Hadn't driven it yet this year, other than to confirm how poorly it still ran.  Can't even drive it, as it felt like only half the engine was running.  Finally took it to the shop this week.  They found bad spark plug wires that were causing 4 cylinders not to fire.  These were original wires, so I guess they wear out after 40 years. 

Waiting for a GM part to arrive from Denver, but in doing some more diagnostics, the mechanic found that even with good wires, a cylinder isn't firing.  I don't know whether there is a spark at the "dead" cylinder.  Part of the original diagnostics was to check the vacuum, so I'm assuming that that's not the culprit (assuming that vacuum could have an effect -- clearly, I'm not an engine guy).

Anyway, with this very incomplete diagnostic, any ideas on what I might expect as the reason why I have a dormant cylinder?

Thanks.

19
67 SS.  Want to get the old gas out of my tank, but can't figure out how to do it.  There seems to be something in the gas inlet tube about 8" in. Blocks me from inserting any tubes or siphon lines into the tank.  What are my next options?  Thanks.

20
General Discussion / Air Cond: HC Blends as a Drop-In Replacement for R-12?
« on: September 13, 2007, 10:51:57 PM »
This is a take off of my earlier post regarding upgrading an AC system to R-134a.

There is another option that I just became aware of, though they've been out there for years:  hydrocarbon blends.  RedTek, Enviro-Safe, Duracool, OZ Technologies, etc. all make a similar product that is a blend of propane, butane, and other hydrocarbons.

Obviously, there is a flammability issue that the manufacturers reduce by including retardents into the blends.  The rub is that leaks could affect the blend -- retardants could leak off leaving only the flammable HCs behind.  Let's table this issue.  Please!

There is a major question of legality in the US.  Can't vent any refrigerants.  Also can't upgrade R-12 to anything but R-134a.  In the US, the upgrade path must be R-12 -> R-134a -> HC blend.  There are all kinds of other legal and ethical issues. We can debate the politics of refrigerants, ozone depletion, and global warning.  But, let's not.  There are 5 million discussions on these topics, the legalities of refrigeration servicing, etc.

What I want to know is compatability.  If I put the HC blend into an empty R-12 factory air conditioning unit from 1967, will I damage my original components?

Thanks.

21
General Discussion / Hot Times Kool Cars -- Colorado Car Show Report
« on: August 27, 2007, 02:20:39 PM »
Went Sunday to the car show in Arvada, CO.  Lots of interesting cars there.  I always scratch my head when I see the 1998 Ford Ranger sitting in the row or the 2006 Ford Mustang.  Just odd.

Pretty good mix of cars -- lots of Mustangs and Mopar cars and a smattering of Camaros.  Quite a few early GM trucks.  Not as many Belairs as I'm used to seeing.  Here are my thoughts:

Pre-Muscle Car Cars:  I don't really get too excited about roadsters, high-boys, and the like.  I can appreciate the work that goes into them, but I don't have any interest in owning them.  Even less with the town-cars of the 30s and 40s.  There were some nice models out there and some really odd ones, too ... such as one that was painted a Dino (the Flintstone's pet) pink.  Still, there was a good variety of these types of cars.  There was a 51 Mercury with a 56 Hemi engine with 8 single-barrel carbs atop it.   Sort of the epitome of the way I feel about these cars.  Very nicely done; incredibly interesting engine; but nothing that I'd actually want to own.

1970s Cars:  Fairly decent representation of Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes from the 70s.  Nothing to get real excited about, though -- no perfect specimens or anything that jumped off the page.  Don't recall seeing any 3rd gen Camaros.

1980+ Cars:  Why bother?  There were some new Corvettes there that looked like they came right off the lot.  Great, they have the new LS1 engine.  OK, but why am I looking at it at a car show?  I mean, if I really wanted to see it, I'd go to my Chevy dealership.  There were some new Mustangs in the same category -- why is this car here?  There was a newer Ford F-650 (competition to International's monster consumer-grade trucks), which was a cool novelty to see.  I have been to my Ford dealership and not seen the F-650.

Mopar:  Looked like some nice representatives, but I just have never been able to get into those cars.  Some really interesting engines and they seemed to have done a lot right when it came to performance, but the styling has never appealed to me.  So, I didn't spend much time looking at them.

Mustangs:  Sorry, but I like 'em.  I've always liked Mustangs and I admire Ford for the effort.  They beat GM by 3 years with the idea, they continually beat GM with styling (other than the Mustang II), and showed their innovation by bringing back the retro look Mustang (again, 3+ years before GM could figure it out).  I like my 67 better than any Mustang, but I do tip my cap to Ford.  However, this is where it gets really unfair.  I don't know jack about Mustangs.  I can take one look at a "nice" Camaro and see the 14 things that are wrong, but the similarly incorrect Mustang looks good to my eyes.  Anyway, lots of Mustangs at the show in varying degrees of options and restoration.  Good representation.

Camaros:  I didn't see the Colorado Camaro Club, so maybe you were dispersed throughout the show?  I pay more attention to the 1967s, because I have one and because they are more complete in the trim tags.  I saw a few clones and a few that were question marks -- trim tags were not factory attached to the firewalls.  In fact, even among the 68s and 69s, I don't think I saw a single trim tag that had not been removed at one point.  Really a shame.  I saw some abomonations -- a 67 with rally stripes that were extendes down all the way onto the front spoiler; a 69 with RS badges, SS paint and an SS-454 license plate (and engine badges) -- the RS badges on the car + SS badges on the license plate and engine were confusing, to say the least!  There were some really nice 69s, though.  There was a green 69 Z that had a nos matching 302 (at least that's what the sign said), a 69 RS/SS with a white vinyl top that I liked real well, etc.  Though the 69 is far from my favorite Camaro (I'd take a 69 Mustang over a 69 Camaro), among the Camaros at the show, I like the 69s the best.

22
Maintenance / One Engine, Three Personalities -- rough in gear
« on: August 27, 2007, 01:55:31 PM »
67 original 350 w/ Q-Jet 4bbl.  Powerglide tranny.  Low miles.

Idles fine.  No problem, ever.  Good response to throttle, etc.  Purrs.

When I put it in gear, one of two things happens:  It runs like a champ (like it did all day on Saturday) or it runs like crap (like it did on Sunday -- even heard a backfire).  By "crap," I mean that it feels like only half of the engine is working, it surges and lunges, doesn't want to accelerate, feel like it will flood out, etc.

I'm really confused because of the intermittant behavior.  Literally, from one day to the next the engine goes from perfect to horrible.  I tried to play with the carb air screws, but it's tough to know what to do, because it always idles fine.  Put it into gear and it idles like crap, put it into P and it's all good again.

My first instinct is that it's the engine.  But how could it be the engine -- in park, the engine runs great?!  But, if it's the tranny, how can a tranny lead to the symptoms I'm seeing (including a backfire)?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.

23
General Discussion / How many rear seat belts? 67 w/ Deluxe Int
« on: August 20, 2007, 02:19:19 PM »
Since I've owned my 67 Camaro, it's only ever had 2 rear seat belts.  It has Deluxe interior, but not the interior style trim -- so the seat belts themselves are the standard black plastic.  I just noticed that all of the parts houses (Rick's, Classic Ind., etc.) sell seat belt kits that include two front and three rear.  It just got me thinking that maybe I'm supposed to have a third seat belt back there?

Thanks.

24
General Discussion / Factory AC upgrade from R-12 to R-134a?
« on: August 10, 2007, 10:08:01 PM »
Not sure if this is a restoration, maintentance, or mild modification question, so I posted here.

I have the original AC in the car.  I had it charged in 1990 with R-12 and it worked fine.  Sometime between 1992 and 2000, the car lost the charge.  R-12 is around $100 a lb over here, so way too expensive.  However, I'd like to use my factory air.

Instructions online make it seem really easy.  Attach a filling adaptor, drop some new oil in, drop 3-4 12 oz. cans in. Done.

Is it really that easy?  Should I be concerned about anything?  Don't want to ruin any of my factory components.

Thanks.

25
Maintenance / Turn Signal Switch Replacement -- Difficulty Rating?
« on: July 31, 2007, 09:19:18 PM »
OK, since no one has any shop recommendations, I'll proceed with Evil Plan Z.

As someone with few skills, I often look for help.  I can usually take things apart and put them back together.  However, I've got no innate auto skills -- didn't grow up working on cars, barely know how to even spell carburetor, thinks a cam is a big forward who used to play for the Bruins, etc.  No better at electrical and wiring -- steered clear of EE during college.

With that said, I think I was just barely smart enough to figure out my problem.  Brake lights don't work, then blinkers went intermittant.  Now left is solid and right works fine.  Hazard lights work fine on both sides.  Getting power through the wires and the brake light switch.  Bulbs are fine.  Sockets are fine.  Based on the combo of weird turn signal behavior, brake light failure, and 30 years of age, I'm going with the Turn Signal Switch.

Looks like that part is around $65 + shipping at most parts houses.  Autozone has a part for $45.  Interesting.  Can also borrow a steering wheel puller from Autozone, so no capital investment in tools is necessary.

I've never pulled a steering wheel on any car before.  I have no help and no friends who have any clue about cars -- my only source of help is on forums like this one.

With that said, and remembering that I'm borderline Brick Tamland, what do you think the odds are of a girl like me and a guy like you ... I mean, how difficult a job is changing this thing out?  Is it just a lot easier to pay a shop $150 and not worry about it.  No, I'm not rich and fall into the category of having more time than money; however, I don't want to crack the thing open and be stuck with a car in my garage with no steering wheel -- pretty tough to drive it to the shop at that point!

Thanks.


26
Maintenance / Recommended Shop in Northern Colorado? Electrical
« on: July 30, 2007, 07:38:29 PM »
Need to have my brake lights worked on by a professional.  Tried all the easy stuff and they all check out.  I live in Fort Collins (80525) and wondered if anyone here had any recommendations.  Thanks.

27
Maintenance / Dies on hard acceleration - Carb has odd vacuum sound (67 350)
« on: September 08, 2006, 01:19:40 PM »
67 350 w/ Powerglide. All original components - Rochester 4 bbl carb.  Was originally equipped with the CA smog equipment, but that is not installed today.

When I accelerate at a "normal" rate, the car behaves fine.  When I accelerate quickly, the car bogs.  If I keep the pedal down, it will die.  I just pulled the air cleaner off and was playing with the carb a bit.  I noticed that when I accelerated, I heard a very loud vacuum leak/release (not audible inside the cab).  When I accelerated slowly ("normal"), there was no vacuum leak/release.  I know nothing about carbs, so maybe this is normal.  I couldn't locate exactly where the vacuum leak/release was coming from, so I couldn't plug it and see what happened.

I don't mind buying a book and trying to do work myself (I've always wanted to learn about carburetors), but just thought I'd ask if this symptom rings any bells among the experts here.

Thanks.

28
General Discussion / Factory Assembly Manual Variations? 1967
« on: June 08, 2006, 01:36:09 PM »
I apologize for the double post, but would I'm not getting any feedback in the Maintenance area.  Thought maybe I'd get some feedback here, since there is a bit more traffic.

For the 1967 Factory Assembly Manual, I have seen four different ones available online:
  • There's the bound one with the red art on the front
  • There's a loose-leaf one with blue art on the front
  • There's a another blue print loose-leaf version
  • There's a loose-leaf with green art on the front


I like the idea of a 3-hole punch version, so that I can lay the manual open flat.  However, those who sell the bound (red artwork) manual generally make claims about it being higher quality than the loose leaf versions.  For instance, Rick's discription states:  "These are quality perfect bound books, not hard to read loose leaf like some others."

So, is there really a difference?  Should I trade the convenience of a loose leaf manual for the quality of the bound one?

Thanks.

29
Maintenance / Which factory assembly manual to get?
« on: June 05, 2006, 03:42:03 PM »
For the 1967 Factory Assembly Manual, I have seen four different ones available online:
  • There's the bound one with the red art on the front
  • There's a loose-leaf one with blue art on the front
  • There's a another blue print loose-leaf version
  • There's a loose-leaf with green art on the front


I like the idea of a 3-hole punch version, so that I can lay the manual open flat.  However, those who sell the bound (red artwork) manual generally make claims about it being higher quality than the loose leaf versions.  For instance, Rick's discription states:  "These are quality perfect bound books, not hard to read loose leaf like some others."

So, is there really a difference?  Should I trade the convenience of a loose leaf manual for the quality of the bound one?

Thanks.

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