Messages

106

Restoration / Re: 68 Rear bumper bracket rivets

« on: December 28, 2005, 12:30:00 AM »

Thanks, Jim is great (on a good day) but I have a set of them and used them as a pattern to make some bolt in versions. You start with a Stainless carriage bolt and turn off the square section under the head and then turn the head to match the rivet head. When it is all bolted up no one will see the nut and there is less (never say no when working on a freshly painted car) chance of damage to the chrome.

Cheers

Arno

107

Originality / Re: Battery Ground lead

« on: December 28, 2005, 12:21:29 AM »

John

The only pre-pierced hole I have is on a small tab that sticks out at 90 deg from the reinforcer plate. This hole is too big for the #10 self tap screw. Any clue what this tab is for?  I've even felt the back and there is no hole or dimple. I am assuming that the wire mounts to the vertical drop off portion of the fender reinforcer between the 2 raised channels that run parallel along this section. Am i correct?

These are GM NOS circa 1980 RS fenders and everything else seems OK. Very odd.

108

Restoration / Re: 68 Ralley Sport hideaway headlights

« on: December 27, 2005, 07:15:09 AM »

Looks good to me all holes are present and accounted for.

Cheers

Arno

109

Originality / Battery Ground lead

« on: December 27, 2005, 07:11:56 AM »

Can someone please tell me the loction of the hole for the #10 hex self tapping screw that attaches the ground lead from the negative battery cable to the body at the PS fender reinforcer on 1968 Camaros. This is PN 9420415 and is #5 on UPC 12 A4 in the ASM.

A distance from say the ground lead screw hole location on the reinforcer to the centerline of the bolt for the rad support bar would be nice.

Cheers

Arno

110

Restoration / Re: 68 Rear bumper bracket rivets

« on: December 13, 2005, 11:51:40 PM »

Thanks, i dug in the plie and found i had them. Not sure I would risk peening these on a $600 chrome job.  Plan is to machine some stainless lag bolts to sane head and bolt bracket in.

Arno

111

Restoration / Re: 68 Ralley Sport hideaway headlights

« on: December 13, 2005, 11:45:46 PM »

Good luck Ralph.

BTW you do not need to install the whole door assembly but just the back bucket frame...makes it less cluttered. This bucket frame is where the main pivot shaft runs through and is located by the bottom hole and bolted on top. Dropping in the big bolt makes sure you mark the centerline, mark it with a grease pecil and recheck.

Transfer the mark to the underside of the wheelwells and drill from the underside.

Arno

112

Restoration / Re: 68 Ralley Sport hideaway headlights

« on: December 13, 2005, 05:52:42 AM »

I just did mine. The photos aren't much help other than orienting yourself. The install is best done with the fenders and wheelwells in place and the car on a lift so you can install parts, drill and proceed without killing your back.

You need to install the door without bellcrank, instead drop in a 1/2" bolt 1 1/2" long to locate the crank hole for the wheelwell. Drill this 1 1/4"...yes it is that big if you want to get the crank through the hole. This hole should be overlapping the slanted part of the wheelwells by about 1/4" so use a holesaw with a 2" arbor to guide your cut.

Then install the crank. Attach the front pivot support to the crank and locate the 2 bolt holes attaching it to the very front of the wheelwell. This pivot bracket should be at about a 45 degree angle to the leading edge of the wheelwells and not cover the 1/2" hole that is there already.

Then preassemble the actuator can plus the rear cross support. Attach this to the crank and with a buddy holding it steady, mark the 3 holes for the rear cross brace. NB; the outside edge of the brace must be clear the of the inner edge of the fender extension. It is a good idea to check the fit of the plastic shrouds at this time to be sure you have the brace in the correct place vertically at this time.

One other hint, when mocking this up use the bushings and wavvy washers to get the slop out of the linkage. And don't forget to drill 2 holes for the RS turn signal wires that go through the wheelwells back of the linkage.

Good luck.

Arno

113

Originality / Re: front spoiler

« on: December 08, 2005, 11:20:44 PM »

John

Is the 10 - 24 screw a philips head? Cad or probably black phos finish?

I think the captive washer on the screw was correct, more than 0.4" D won't fit in the angled flange on the 68 spolier.

Arno

114

Originality / Re: front spoiler

« on: December 04, 2005, 11:30:26 PM »

On 68 1st design spoilers there were no struts. As far as I know the spoiler was attached with 10-24 X 1/2" machine screws to the valance panel. The nut had a captive washer.

I think 69 had these screws  plus the 1/4 hex bolts for the struts, correct?

Starting in the 1980's GM had a crossover repair part PN# is somewhere in my garage, that allowed 68 and 69 to be replaced by one part.

Arno

115

Restoration / Re: 68 Rear bumper bracket rivets

« on: December 04, 2005, 11:17:08 PM »

Hi Tinkeer

Any chance you have an ebay item #. I have looked for a while but never seen rivets come up.

thanks

Arno

116

Restoration / 68 Rear bumper bracket rivets

« on: November 30, 2005, 11:57:47 PM »

 Does anyone know what the shape of the exposed head is on the 2 rivets holding the rear center bumper bracket on 1968 cars?

 I believe it is a 5/8 inch OD round with flat head about 1/8 thick but I am not sure.

Thanks

Arno

117

Restoration / Re: Trunk Spatter Paint Color for 1st Gens.

« on: November 26, 2005, 10:30:16 PM »

William is correct. I checked with Jerry M and he recommended ordering paint from Larry Christensen at christensenZL1@comcast.net if you want the correct Dupont custom color in solvent based form for use in a splatter gun or Schutz gun.

Arno

118

Originality / Re: front spoiler

« on: November 26, 2005, 10:25:32 PM »

Hi Chris

I think your spoiler screws may have been replaced at some time. Based on input from local owners with original cars it seems they could be #10 Philips head machine srcrews with a hex nut/captive washer on the backside.

Cheers

Arno

119

Restoration / Re: 68 camaro convert upper windshield molding removeable

« on: November 11, 2005, 05:35:47 AM »

Which moulding are you talking about? If it is the large 2 pc at the top, Remove the mirror and its mount first. Then use rubber gloves for a grip and grab it on the outside while standind inside and give it a twist while pulling up and to the inside. It will be help my body caulk but once the bond breaks it should pop off the front.

Arno

120

Restoration / Re: CORRECT UNDER BODY COLOR

« on: November 11, 2005, 05:31:11 AM »

At the risk of prolonging the debate I just want to clarify my point. The primer process as applied resulted in what looks like a 30 degree gloss which is what you are all saying. The overspray issue is another dimension and I completely agree on the amount and variation car ot car. I am finishing a Norwood 1968 SS/RS BB convertible now and since the exterior panels like header, valance, etc were hung in the window openings and the body was very open during color application the result was an inside color that appeared red primer vs the black everywhere else. It took me an email exchange with John to realize it was the red exterior rough overspay on the black that I was looking at.

Whether or not you would ever seriously want to do such an overspray in restoring a car is, in my mind very questionable so in the end it isn't "show car" I care about as much as what the factory intended at the time. I'm not a fan of overspray on restored cars and I know many judges that do not think it a necessary evil as well.

Cheers

Arno