16
Foreign Camaros / Re: Swiss Assembled 1969 Camaro on Carsinbarns.com
« on: December 17, 2012, 11:10:49 AM »
Thanks. 
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17
Maintenance / Re: Rear main seal leak
« on: December 16, 2012, 11:00:51 AM »
The seal might be fine.. Often two dabs of RTV is forgotten to be added between the rear main cap and block -between the seal and the pan gasket (both sides).
One Band-aid fix would be to run your PVC valve as normal but not to use a breather on the other valve cover. This will create a vacuum in the crankcase that will suck oil in instead of allow it to drip out.
One Band-aid fix would be to run your PVC valve as normal but not to use a breather on the other valve cover. This will create a vacuum in the crankcase that will suck oil in instead of allow it to drip out.
18
General Discussion / Re: champagne 69
« on: December 16, 2012, 10:43:21 AM »
69pace has a good gallery of factory colors for 67-69s.. http://www.69pace.com/index.htm
http://www.69pace.com/paint1969champagne.htm
http://www.69pace.com/paint1969champagne.htm
19
Foreign Camaros / Re: Swiss Assembled 1969 Camaro on Carsinbarns.com
« on: December 15, 2012, 10:10:42 PM »
It shows the VIN as "Chassis". So was it stamped on the subframe?
Also, does it have the Swiss VIN in the hidden locations on the cowl and under the heaterbox?
If so, GM must have known the Swiss VIN when the cars were is Norwood and/or Van Nuys in order to stamp them on the production line, right?
Also, does it have the Swiss VIN in the hidden locations on the cowl and under the heaterbox?
If so, GM must have known the Swiss VIN when the cars were is Norwood and/or Van Nuys in order to stamp them on the production line, right?
20
Foreign Camaros / Re: Swiss Assembled 1969 Camaro on Carsinbarns.com
« on: December 15, 2012, 09:58:21 PM »... they had to have other lights mounted under the bumper since the Swiss rules said that the original parkinglights and turnsignals were to far from the corner of the front.
Same rule in Australia, but I don't think it was applied until 1Jan69 or 1Jan73.
Mines a Nov68 build so my 69 is technically exempt, but I disabled the parker function and use them as indicators only. The superior H4 headlamps place parkers in a far better position, and I never liked the oe parkers and headlamps on at the same time anyway.
(Correct me if I'm wrong, but only 67 & 68 the parkers swuitched off when headlamps were switched on? 69s stayed on with the headlamps?)
21
General Discussion / Re: Vinyl or Not?
« on: December 15, 2012, 06:27:56 AM »Pseudo Convertible
Yep.
See this convertible Deusenberg with the f-style bracket that was actually a component that folded back the roof?
..and then hard tops started faking them with a non-functioning ornament of the same bracket?
..to the point where they were simplified just stuck on a vinyl roof purely as an ornament and didn't even look like a functioning bracket at all?
Vinyl tops were "invented" to look like convertibles.
22
General Discussion / Re: Vinyl or Not?
« on: December 14, 2012, 11:49:59 PM »
Big fan of the vinyl roof. I know it's a psuedo convertible thing, and psuedo things I normally dislike, but I really like them. Maybe it's nostalgia. 
I love this.. Welcome aboard.
I love this.. Welcome aboard.
23
General Discussion / Re: 68 Camaro horns
« on: December 14, 2012, 10:06:23 AM »
UPC 12 A8 is not clear?..
The horn on the rad support is the low note, the horn bolted through the headlamp bracket is the high..
The horn on the rad support is the low note, the horn bolted through the headlamp bracket is the high..
24
Restoration / Re: BB volt reg mounting
« on: December 12, 2012, 10:07:55 AM »
My 23" radiator doesn't..
Have you got the correct rad brackets and/or looking at the correct reg mounting holes?
Have you got the correct rad brackets and/or looking at the correct reg mounting holes?
25
Restoration / Re: How to repair plastic/vinyl air dam (69 BB w/ AC)
« on: December 08, 2012, 10:22:51 PM »
I finally decided to fit the Air Shield that I purchased from Ed Melberg.
(This post is pretty-much a cut & paste from the forum that I am a regular on..)
The shield is shown here in the C60 (air/con) chapter of the Assembly Manual with all the dimensions for the mounting bolt holes. Lots of detail..
Both they and the shield are accurate and the shield fitted easily.
For drilling the front side of the radiator support, I had very little room for getting in a drill between the valance, let alone one with a drill bit in the chuck. So, I put a center-drill in my die grinder and it fitted and drilled easily.
These bolts from AMK (B-10415) are not THE correct bolts as the correct ones aren't available anymore, but they are very close and have the same self tapping flute in the thread like the correct ones. (-just like the 68-69 fuel and brake line clip bolts do.) They cut their own threads really well and just by using a ratcheting ring spanner to tap and install.
Done. Very neat and OE!
(..and no, I didn't need to cut an access hole in it for the remote oil filter like I thought I was going to. Phew!)
The whole idea of the shield is to maintain a low pressure area behind the radiator when the vehicle is at speed. This encourages the most amount of air to pass through the radiator and not allow air from under the valance that has "cheated" the radiator to fill the low pressure void.
Now. all I need is a hot day to see if it makes a difference.. The other day (without the shield) was a humid ~30°C (86°F), and the engine was cruising (@3500) with the temp at 190°-200°F with the A/C on high..
With OE thermostats being 195°F, that temp is hardly a concern, but I have a 170°F 'stat fitted at the moment and would like a little reserve up my sleeve for stinking hot days.
Otherwise, it rarely makes it to 180°F on cooler days with the A/C off, so the system works well.
Switching on the A/C typically adds 10°F.
(This post is pretty-much a cut & paste from the forum that I am a regular on..)
The shield is shown here in the C60 (air/con) chapter of the Assembly Manual with all the dimensions for the mounting bolt holes. Lots of detail..
Both they and the shield are accurate and the shield fitted easily.
For drilling the front side of the radiator support, I had very little room for getting in a drill between the valance, let alone one with a drill bit in the chuck. So, I put a center-drill in my die grinder and it fitted and drilled easily.
These bolts from AMK (B-10415) are not THE correct bolts as the correct ones aren't available anymore, but they are very close and have the same self tapping flute in the thread like the correct ones. (-just like the 68-69 fuel and brake line clip bolts do.) They cut their own threads really well and just by using a ratcheting ring spanner to tap and install.
Done. Very neat and OE!
(..and no, I didn't need to cut an access hole in it for the remote oil filter like I thought I was going to. Phew!)The whole idea of the shield is to maintain a low pressure area behind the radiator when the vehicle is at speed. This encourages the most amount of air to pass through the radiator and not allow air from under the valance that has "cheated" the radiator to fill the low pressure void.
Now. all I need is a hot day to see if it makes a difference.. The other day (without the shield) was a humid ~30°C (86°F), and the engine was cruising (@3500) with the temp at 190°-200°F with the A/C on high..
With OE thermostats being 195°F, that temp is hardly a concern, but I have a 170°F 'stat fitted at the moment and would like a little reserve up my sleeve for stinking hot days.
Otherwise, it rarely makes it to 180°F on cooler days with the A/C off, so the system works well.
Switching on the A/C typically adds 10°F.
26
Originality / Re: Does this 67 undercarriage look unrestored?
« on: November 29, 2012, 08:12:57 PM »
Also, I thought BB axle torque-arms were supposed to be square and not round tubing..
27
General Discussion / Re: where can I find 69 Camaro shackle bolts?????????
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:24:50 AM »I used AMK a lot for correct fasteners on my restoration, and they are great, when you have a part # to refer to. The only problem with AMK is they have a $30 minimum policy. I used to make up a list, when I got around $30 I would place an order. I have their catalog, and I did not see these bolts as a separate item.
I have never once, ever, flicked through their catalog and spent less than $30 in the 10-15 orders I've placed with them in the last 10 years..
Yesterday I spent $270 plus postage to down here. They have too much great stuff !
Mind you, I have a fastener fetish and more than several tackle boxes full of "stock"..
28
Originality / Re: Does this 67 undercarriage look unrestored?
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:20:39 AM »
Is the car red or originally red?
It appears to still have overspray on the floorpan in the direction that it would have been applied to the rocker panels.
It appears to still have overspray on the floorpan in the direction that it would have been applied to the rocker panels.
29
General Discussion / Re: 12 bolt backing plates
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:03:48 AM »
PS. I found out that Camaro rear drum wheel cylinders have a 7/8" bore.
30
General Discussion / Re: 12 bolt backing plates
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:02:55 AM »10-bolt plates will work, but you may have to grind the center axle bearing holes oversize a tad. I have a new Moser 12-bolt under my car and I used the backing plates from an old 10-bolt. I don't know of the Moser axle bearings are bigger than standard GM or not because I used C-clip eliminators. But the holes only need to be enlarged slightly. I used a carbide bit in a grinder and it's a snap. Hope this helps.
Thanks guys..
Pretty sure 10 and 12 bolt axles use the same wheel bearings and backing plates, but Moser are making 12 bolts and strongly suggesting they supply them using big Ford Torino press-on bearings and retainer plates.. Thay are a far better and safer way of retaining the axles as opposed to C-Clips, and C-Clip eliminators are still a no-no for the street. http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/faq/
Anyway, the Torino bearings are 3.150" OD as opposed to tiny 12 Bolt 2.255" OD so the backing plates need to be opened up to ~3.200" so the bearing will pass through when installing. Much easier and neater done on a lathe if you have access to one, which is what I had done.