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Messages - Edgemontvillage

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Originality / Re: 1969 Fuel Line Frame Rail Bracket Bolt
« on: June 17, 2013, 05:01:11 PM »
That is not the normal bolt for that bracket on a NOR car

Although the donor fuel line is from a 2C Van Nuys built car, my car is a 4C Norwood build.  How does the Nor bolt differ?

Originality / Re: 1969 Fuel Line Frame Rail Bracket Bolt
« on: June 16, 2013, 01:58:34 AM »
The bolt that holds the fuel line bracket near the tank on my car is a dark phosphate 5/16"-18 X 1.0" pointed bolt with a 3/4" conical washer attached.  The head marking is an Anchor over T.  AMK offers the same bolt, only 1/8 inch shorter, part # B-10900. Their price is $4.00 for 2.  Hope this helps.

Very helpful, thanks!

Originality / 1969 Fuel Line Frame Rail Bracket Bolt
« on: June 15, 2013, 04:03:50 PM »
The fuel line on my '69 Z/28 was cut at some point likely to install an electric fuel pump. A very generous CRG member provided me a survivor fuel line from a 2C Van Nuys car with 52K miles that I plan to use as a replacement. I have an orginal fuel line clip that bolts to the frame rail beside the fuel tank (see photo) however I'm trying to confirm the correct attaching bolt details. I likely have one however I need to ensure its the correct one. If anyone has one handy I'd appreciate if you would post a photo and details regarding the size, head markings and washer configuration, thanks.      

Lloyd, in the pictures it appears that the 4 tabs on the mast bracket are slightly thicker on the repro part than on the original. Is that so, and (if correct) is the steel used throughout the repro version of a heavier gauge?

Tim, good observation, the steel used in the reproduction hook appears to be 10 gauge and the original uses 11 gauge.   



Lloyd, thank you for taking the time to do the write up - not hared to do, but it takes time.

Congrats on the have become a real master on locating these orig parts....

Can u help me find a AC convert fender baffle?

Eddie, coming from you that's is a high complement, very kind. It took me over a year to locate the hook and then I had to make my check book bleed to get it. A mixed blessing.

I'm surprised that any vendor spent the money to design and develop the dies to reproduce that hook, in view of the potentially VERY low demand for the part.

John, me too, however its a pretty nice part as compared to so many hastily produced, low fidelity reproduction parts in the market. 

"Good write-up Lloyd! Are you able to say where you got the original from? The few that I've seen for sale have been priced as though made of solid gold...."

I wish I could brag that I found the hook on a weekend swap meet archaeological dig however I didn't, I purchased it from a parts vendors.

Great presentation. It's great to see these parts viewed in this manner so we can choose whether to look for original or buy reproductions site unseen. Unless you have an original part to compare with, it is often hard to comparison shop.

Gary, considering that the hook and jack assembly is stored under the spare tire and rarely sees the light of day, budget and personal preference dictate choices here. I have been painstakingly working through correcting many details on my car for the past couple of years and really wanted to continue in the theme of correct, original parts only.  

When I purchased my 69 RS/Z28 with a factory installed Endura (VE3) bumper, as is often the case the jack and its related parts were missing. I located an original base, ratcheting mechanism, mast, J hook, wing nut and lug wrench with relative ease however was unable to locate an Endura jack hook.  I decided to purchase a reproduction from HBC and although its well made and a reasonable approximation of the original, it was just too fresh and shiny rather than "survivor original" in keeping with the rest of the car so after a considerable search I located the original hook pictured here. As the Endura VE3 jack hook is reasonably rare and not often photographed in captivity I thought I would post a few photos of the original and the reproduction as I have not seen a similar comparison posted anywhere else.  

Overall dimensions and weight are similar however there are several subtle differences:

The arch of the hook's backbone is more pronounced on the reproduction and the midsection of the arch is wider. Although it is difficult to see, and oxidation may play a part, the paint color on the original is a darker less intense shade of blue. The bottom and top ends of the original also have a finer taper. From this side angle the tabs on the back of the mask bracket are slightly bent upward on the original.

The hole located in the mid arch is positioned higher and the mast bracket is bent at a much steeper angle on the original hook.

This top down view of the back of the mast bracket shows a more defined die cut of the tabs and a straight cut and alignment vs slightly flared tab ends on the reproduction.

In this photo the difference in the angles of the mast brackets is quite noticeable. Also the die cut of the original braket is more defined or crisp vs the reproduction.

The stamping around the main rivet is more elongated on the original and the crush end of the rivet is domed in the center vs flat on the reproduction.

The font used for the "VE3" stamping is the same however is better defined and has better horizontal alignment on the original. The rivet is slightly larger and far more bulbous shaped on the reproduction hook.

The "CAMARO 1969 UN" stamping on the original uses a slightly larger point size and is shallower however the same font is used. Centering and horizontal alignment is better on the original. The edge radius of the stamping on the orignal is also wider. The rivet is painted on both and the original has a wider lip  

Originality / Re: Cowl Hood Relay - Factory Original with Rivet?
« on: May 31, 2013, 03:15:04 AM »
Here I have 2 cowl hood relays (PN 7729602), a used one that appeared in my original post and another which is NOS. The NOS relay is an earlier service replacement as indicated by the box design and shows minor design variations. It uses a open center rivet to attach one of the blades and the base design is also different, perhaps from a different supplier. A more noteable difference is on the front of the case. Both have a drop of solder (as suggested by Warren - WorkinProgress)  however the earlier NOS part also has a (hollow) brass fastener attached to the case where the solder pooled.   

Originality / Re: 69 Z 302 pulley finishes
« on: May 29, 2013, 07:55:44 PM »
Here is a photo of an original '69 Z/28 Power Steering pulley I own. Although the original finish mimics phosphating its definitely paint. In the photo you can see a small area that is chipping on the bottom right side.

Test Drive / VIN Search Test 124379N633599 N633599
« on: May 28, 2013, 03:40:28 PM »
TEST - Norwood 4C build RS/Z28 originally sold out of Georgia or South Corolina. Looking for original trans and motor VIN 124379N633599   N633599

Originality / Re: Valve stems for Rally Wheels
« on: May 27, 2013, 12:30:26 AM »
Thanks for clarifying John.

Originality / Re: Valve stems for Rally Wheels
« on: May 26, 2013, 12:50:56 AM »

??? Hmmm?

Posted by: Petes L48
627 cap is seen here, still around as JohnZ said.  Looks like your #2 I believe.

Posted by: luv2sixty9
Cap #1 is the factory assembly line original. Cap #2 is your every day seen cap.

Originality / Re: Valve Stem Caps for '69 Rally Wheels
« on: May 24, 2013, 06:37:05 PM »
Reviving an old thread relating to a question about assembly line correct valve stems and CAPS.  Are either of these examples (#1 or #2) assembly line correct for a '69 Z?  As shown in the photos, #1 has fine ridges that extend onto the crown of the cap, a less pronounced tip and proud base.  #2 is a more commonly seen style with the Dill name in capital letters moulded into the crown, wider, further spaced, flatter ridges and a taller tip with a concave center and a level base rim.

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