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Messages - Edgemontvillage

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271
Restoration / Re: D80 Spoiler Trunk Lid Sealing Tape
« on: March 22, 2020, 04:11:16 PM »
Nothing yet...working on it.

272
Zinc (Nut) can be found out there also. (For My restorations)

Un restored photos 68/69 to follow ; Would it matter "IF" you are talking about PS -vs- Manual Box.

Jim

Jim, I have only seen manganese phosphated hardware on the pitman shaft for both power steering and manual boxes. This was  also the case during Vintage Certification at MCACN. Granted when original fasteners are 50+ years old and have been exposed to weather and road debris its more difficult to determine.   

   
    

273
The nut and lock washer were both manganese phosphated. If you are seeking originality the threaded and splined section of the pitman /sector shaft was copper plated and should show some plating on the bottom when the nut and washer are attached.


Sector / Pitman Shaft copper plating
 


274
Originality / Re: 69 horn bolts
« on: February 26, 2020, 05:31:12 AM »
They were removed by a revision to the A.I.M dated 10/68.

What was removed 10/68?

275
Originality / Re: 69 horn bolts
« on: February 25, 2020, 11:02:04 PM »
I’ve seen original horn mounting bolts mostly in manganese phosphate however some in clear (silver) zinc, what’s the determining factor which finish was used?

276
General Discussion / Re: HARMONIC BALANCER LARGE BOLT
« on: February 18, 2020, 04:01:05 PM »
The original assemblies I have seen consist of a grade 8 bolt that is clear zinc plated, typically with a TR head marking, and a single through-hole in the bolt head, followed by a star washer also clear zinc plated, then a special thick washer that is natural steel (unpainted and unplated). The 3 bolts that hold the crankshaft pulley to the balancer are manganese phosphated.

277
Restoration / Re: 1969 Hood Striker Assembly Finishes
« on: February 12, 2020, 05:22:09 PM »
Lioyd, was reviewing what I found on our 68 and reason for doing ours in phosphate. Post 256 dated 3/16/11
https://www.camaros.net/forums/133-build-projects/182584-time-another-68-z-28-restored-18.html
How do you use that site with all the ads & pop ups? I stopped going there because of that fact....Joe

Joe, off topic, however if you want to turn off pop-ups for the Windows version of the Google Chrome web browser here's how. There is a lot of good information on TC. 

Chrome (Windows)
Click the Customize and control Google Chrome menu (the three dots in the upper right corner of the window below the close window X)
Select Settings.
Click Advanced at the bottom of the page
Under Privacy and security, click the Site Settings button.
Select the Pop-ups and redirects arrow.
Click the Blocked (recommended) slider.
You're done.

To disable the pop-up blocker uncheck the Blocked (recommended) box.

278
Originality / Re: Steering Coupler Nuts
« on: February 07, 2020, 09:02:17 PM »
There may be differences between the 4 ply power steering coupler and 7 ply manual regarding hardware however for the PS coupler I've observed, up to the 1969 model year the tall style bolts were used with the MB head marking or sometimes no marking. One was manganese (dark) phosphated and the other copper plated.

Original PS coupler stud hardware showing tall style threaded studs with copper plating and manganese phosphating
 


279
Restoration / Re: HOOD HINGES SPRING
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:07:40 PM »
Thanks guys!

280
Restoration / Re: 69 Canadian underhood decals
« on: February 05, 2020, 02:29:08 PM »
They are reproduced on a made to order basis by Don Lightfoot in Ontario, Canada. 

E-mail: don48@personainternet.com
Web site:http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss/frame.html

281
Restoration / Re: HOOD HINGES SPRING
« on: February 05, 2020, 02:21:25 PM »
A photo of my recently restored hood hinge and spring. The hinge was zinc phosphated and the spring was cleaned and oiled.


282
Maintenance / Re: Reusing original upper and lower steel radiator rails
« on: January 17, 2020, 06:23:06 PM »
Mike, when I restored my original rad I took it to a basic local rad shop to have them disassemble it properly so I could assess, clean and repair the parts. I then took the tanks to my body guy to have him bodywork the few dents out avoiding use of filler. Once that was done and the parts were primed I delivered everything to the shop who had the correct core I needed and who I trusted to assemble the radiator correctly. All the stock parts including the rails were re-used except the core.



 



 

283
General Discussion / Re: Joe Perri and GEN4 Restorations.
« on: January 10, 2020, 03:17:58 PM »
As a follow-up, I just purchased a restored RC-15 rad cap for my 1967 Corvette from Tim and the quality is exceptional. Shipping was quick, packaging very good. I'm pleased with the work. 



284
Restoration / Re: 1969 Hood Striker Assembly Finishes
« on: January 06, 2020, 04:19:35 PM »
Many thanks for all the submissions. I dare not rule out exceptions however I've concluded the assembly, including the bolt (adjuster shaft), was very likely zinc phosphated originally and any appearance of a natural or galvanized finish on the bolt is due to burnishing or wear over time. Its generally accepted that gloss black is correct for the spring. Here is how I restored the assembly for my project: 





285
Restoration / Re: Engine painting poll
« on: December 17, 2019, 03:07:41 PM »
Bringing up an old topic.  Was the positive batt cable clip from the starter up to batt was it installed before or after engine paint?


Here's a photo of Skip L's 22K mile 09D Norwood '69 Z/28 survivor showing the clips painted:




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