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Messages - Edgemontvillage

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1
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Font Question
« on: December 14, 2018, 04:58:29 PM »
Here are photos of my cars rear brakes when I disassembled for cleaning a few years ago...  240 on one side and 241 on the other.   (Are these 'date codes'??).. My car is a late 09C car...

Thanks Gary, those levers and stamps are well preserved. On my Brooklyn Z and the former 10 10 survivor the lever date stamps were "hastily applied" and not at all crisp so I'll replicate that on my build. 

2
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Font Question
« on: December 14, 2018, 04:54:55 PM »
Lloyd you into some crazy detail here. I love the pursuit, by you and Chick to get it right in a resto.
Here is a pic of mine from my 08C (late 69 car)
Not as neat and clearly stamped (could be 227?)

Thanks for posting the photos and for the feedback, I've been working on a build thread over at TC however the knowledge base and dialog on CRG is impressive. My build will focus on a lot of finer details.

3
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Font Question
« on: December 14, 2018, 04:49:06 PM »
Lloyd was the pictured lever from the "Brooklyn" car, or a reference photo? Just wondered about the ink stamp date versus car build date.

Hi Tim, not photos of the Brooklyn car, actually a screen grab of Skip L's 21K mile car. As for dates, Skip's car is a Norwood 4th week of 1969 build and the Julian date on the brake lever of 258 decodes to September 15 so about a 2 week date gap. I'll have to post the dates from the Brooklyn car too.

4
Restoration / Re: Need Ball Joint Rivets Installed
« on: December 13, 2018, 12:14:24 AM »
I'm going to ship them to Bair's when they come back from the powdercoater, $25 per-side plus shipping. That seems reasonable and they have a good reputation. I'm having second thoughts about the powdercoating though. It seems from my reading, the control arms were fully assembled, painted then the ball joint was installed. If that's the correct sequence my cross shaft bushing won't be painted. Were the bushings installed before painting?

The control arm, dog bone (control arm shaft), washers, bushing retainer bolts and bushings should all be painted (30% gloss) once the control arm is assembled if you are seeking a factory correct look. The assembly was actually dip painted prior to installation of the ball joint by the original supplier however that's rarely seen and not very practical or cosmetic. Powder coating is also a good choice for durability. Good idea to go with rivets rather than bolts for the new ball joints - happens to be one of my pet peeves, rivets just look right on our cars.   



 

5
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Font Question
« on: December 12, 2018, 04:53:08 PM »
Bob and Mike, great intel, many thanks.

6
Decoding/Numbers / Font Question
« on: December 12, 2018, 07:05:33 AM »
Julian date ink stamp on a 1969 drum brake lever - anyone know the font? (I want to get a stamp made)


 

7
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 12, 2018, 06:06:55 AM »
Lloyd,  if you have to buy those quantities, it would seem to be lots more than necessary to do your own; you could recover part of your cost and help one or two others here by packaging some your residue into a 'trunk package' for people who want to do the same to theirs...?

Hey Gary, good point, I was planning to use the water shield for the doors too and the sound deadner in the passenger compartment to replace the original material on the floor that I removed. I'll need to figure out how much is required to complete the car and would be happy to offer the balance to whoever needs it for their project.   







8
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 11, 2018, 11:58:25 PM »
Lloyd I see what you mean about the missing dimples, that water shield material looks good also. George

George, importantly you've contributed significantly to this topic - many thanks!

9
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 11, 2018, 07:08:00 PM »
I contacted Repops today and was told they do sell the watershield and sound deadener in bulk rolls as follows:

12'x4' Universal Watershield Material
39'x72" Sound Deadener Material

They don't sell retail direct so I'm working on placing an order through one of Repops' retailers. Speaking with their Sales Manager I was told the Watershield material is black on one side and manila on the other.



10
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 11, 2018, 06:57:41 PM »
"First it was missing some dimpling mid pan (similar to the dimpling around the jack hook loop) which needed to be replicated "

Convertible version Hook anchor location?

Jim, the AMD pan omitted dimples mid pan (as circled) and as far as I know these dimples were stamped in all 1969 Camaro original trunk pans.

11
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 11, 2018, 04:01:38 PM »
Lloyd, Yes I did replace the trunk panel in my car. Had too many rust pin holes. What differences are you seeing?
The water shield you refereed to from Repo's is black, not at all like brown craft paper. After the glue dried on mine I sprayed with WD40 and wrinkled it slightly, looked just like the originals I have seen. George

I needed a partial lower trunk floor replacement and the AMD pan I used had 2 notable differences vs the original factory pan. First it was missing some dimpling mid pan (similar to the dimpling around the jack hook loop) which needed to be replicated and second, the drain hole surround stampings use a shallower drop off radius (you can see these differences in the photo below you posted). So to correct this we grafted in the original drain hole surrounds from my original pan. I plan to contact Repops today however according to their current web site some of the water shields they now show use a manila colored paper. (  http://www.repops.com/product-search.cfm?ca=39 )




   

12
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 11, 2018, 03:30:07 AM »
George, Iím trying to understand the small differences between your pad and the original in the photo. Is your trunk floor original or has it been replaced?

13
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 11, 2018, 12:23:31 AM »
Great post George - thanks, I browsed Repop's web site and they make all kinds of automotive restoration sound deadening and water shield kits. They don't make a '69 trunk insulating pad. I plan to call them tomorrow to ask about selling me some bulk/uncut material. I think the water shield may work well for the paper top. Will post once I have more info. 

14
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 10, 2018, 03:27:39 PM »
Will-do Bentley, I'm hoping that another CRG member has a source for the material and will post their findings here.

PS - in researching the trunk splatter paint and (inside quarter panel) spray-on sound deadening processes for my restoration I discovered that most all of the photos of original '69 and '68 trunks I've seen show spatter paint coverage on the back of the seat braces however no further up than the mid point. Seems spatter coverage does vary on the braces however it's generally poor. On my car (see Post #27) there was almost no spatter paint from the factory on the seat braces. 


Restored spatter paint and spray-on sound deadener
 


15
Restoration / Re: Trunk sound deadner
« on: December 10, 2018, 05:43:04 AM »
I'm reviving this thread because I'm now researching the trunk insulation pad that was originally on my 4C Norwood built 1969 RS/Z with 712 Deluxe Black (Comfortweave) interior and I'm coming up short where to source suitable replacement material - anyone solve this?




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