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841  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: powerglide shifting on: February 23, 2006, 04:31:55 PM
The following link takes you to an "on-line" 1971 Chevrolet Transmission manual.  Powerglide is discussed in the first 23 pages.  It is a very good reference.

Quoting from pages 2, 13, and 14:

The transmission will automatically upshift to the high range or direct drive at between 10 and 68 mph depending on the particular vehicle and on throttle position.  When this shift occurs, the low band is released and the high clutch is applied which locks the planetary system causing it to  rotate as a unit

NOTE: The shift point speeds, shown for reference in this discussion, pertain to the Chevrolet 327 cubic inch V8 engine[/color]. Refer the chart for complete shift point listings.

Coast Downshift   As the vehicle slows down, governor pressure (holding the low-drive shift valve to the right) is reduced. At approximately 18 to 14 m.p.h[/color[/b]]., governor pressure is less than the opposing spring force of the shift valve springs

"Through-Detent" Forced Downshift   At all road speeds below approximately 70 to 62 m.p.h. the transmission can be automatically shifted to low range by depressing the accelerator linkage "throughdetent". This causes the production of maximum TV pressure and moves the detent valve to open TV   pressure to the detent passage. The resulting full TV pressure over-comes governor pressure acting on the shift valve. This action shifts the transmission to low gear as previously described. The transmission will remain in low gear until either the accelerator is released, or the car speed reaches the maximum upshift point (68-74 mph). At road speeds above approximately 63 m.p.h., governor pressure acting on the shift valve is high enough to prevent TV pressure from moving the shift valve. Therefore, regardless of accelerator position, the transmission will remain in high gear at all road speeds above approximately 70 m.p.h.
842  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: powerglide shifting on: February 23, 2006, 11:19:54 AM
In my experience, with my '69 RS 327-210 Hp/Powerglide, it is a combination of not only getting the kickdown adjusted properly, but also ensuring that the throttle linkage is adjusted properly.  The procedures in the assembly manuals are, obviously, for stock pieces and parts.  Aftermarket carbs, manifoldes, linkages, etc can have an affect on transmission operation, although, the general procedure for setting upshifts and downshifts would still be as described in the assembly manual.  Mine didn't work prpoerly either until I made sure that the carb linkage was adjusted properly (first) and then the kikcdown linkage -  but rmemember, my car is totally stock and the assembly manual info was spot on.  It is also worth mentioning that the transmission was totally rebuilt in 2004 as a part of the mechanical restoration process.

If I put my foot into it, the upshift from first to secont will occur between 55 and 60 mph.  If I am cruising at 55 or less ant put the pedal to the metal, the transmission downshifts to first.  Much above 55 mph, no downshift - you are above the speed where the transmission will downshift in order to prevent over-revving of the engine.
843  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 69 Camaro License plate holders- Body Color or black? on: February 20, 2006, 06:49:12 PM
To the best of my knowledge, both were black - however, I'll defer to those that have studied this in more detail.
844  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: sub frame #'s on: February 20, 2006, 06:47:42 PM
I can only speak from a singular experience when I had the subframe out from under my 69 RS back in 2004.  I looked all over the subframe and did not find any markings, numbers, etc.  Quite different from GM A bodies that I've been involved with ('66 Chevelle and '67 GTO) where there were stampings and numbers all over the frame, including manufacturer, build date,  and partial VIN - but alas, nothing on the '69.
845  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: body panel numbers on: February 20, 2006, 12:31:45 PM
Under the outer heater box/blower cover stamped on the firewall of my 69RS were the following.  The partial VIN is well understood.  I was informed from CRG membership that the K 49 is, as JohnZ has indicated the stamping number.  The following is part of an e-mail exchange that I received on the topic.

It's the date and factory code that indicates when that piece of sheetmetal was stamped.  In this case the 49th week of 1968.  We have not figured out which sheetmetal plant is which, but I've seen H's, K's, and T's on various parts on the cars.  The most obvious one is right in the center of the trunks inner stiffener.  Those usually begin with a T.  If there is a third digit, I don't think it would be a shift number since the stamps only changed weekly.  May have indicated which machine or which mold it was stamped in.

The K is a code for the stamping plant.  49 is the 49th week of the year - mid-December, which relates well to your car build date.  The meaning of any suffixes isn't sure, but could related to the shift as you note.

Build date on my car is 01C.  Subsequent to the information that I received above, I was told that perhaps the K stood for Kalamazoo, M stamping plant.

Firewall pic attached.
846  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Please see picture of my 327 - question on originality on: February 13, 2006, 01:09:32 PM
Pic #2 - engine in the car
847  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Please see picture of my 327 - question on originality on: February 13, 2006, 01:08:12 PM
Two more pics - after the engine is in the car
848  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Please see picture of my 327 - question on originality on: February 13, 2006, 12:57:11 PM
Pic #4  Same note applies as indicated in pic #3.
849  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Please see picture of my 327 - question on originality on: February 13, 2006, 12:56:28 PM
Pic #3, Transmission mounted.  Note valve covers are not the ones in pics #1 and #2.  They are spares that were used during the engine installation.  Restored valve covers mounted later after engine and transmission were installed.
850  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Please see picture of my 327 - question on originality on: February 13, 2006, 12:47:03 PM
Pic #2
851  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: Please see picture of my 327 - question on originality on: February 13, 2006, 12:46:27 PM
Although you didn't state it, since the oil fill tube is in the front of the intake, this isn't a 69.

Attached to this e-mail is a pic of the correct 327 - 210 HP engine for a 69.  I will post 3 additional pics in seperate posts to follow.  The engine pictured is the correct engine for my 69 RS, which I installed last summer.  My car has a PowerGlide, so it also has the heat tube / snorkel assembly to the air cleaner EFE (early fuel evaporative) system.  To the best of my knowledge, 3 spd manual cars did not have EFE.

I think that in '68, the air cleaner was turned in the opposite direction, with the snorkel pointing toward the driver side.  I have what I believe is a '68 air cleaner and it is oriented that way.  Never confirmed it though once I realized it was not the correct air cleaner for my car.
852  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Installation of factory tach and center fuel gauge in 69 on: February 07, 2006, 01:23:57 PM
I did this about 10 years ago and it is not all that difficult.  After removing my dash mounted fuel gage, the opening had to be enlarged in order to accomodate a tach.  This was easily accomplished, with care, with a hole saw.  Before modifying the cluster in my car, I had picked up a damaged one from a junk yard that had several Camaros in it.  I practiced the cut, tach fit, etc on the damage cluster before cutting on the one in my car.  I mainly wanted to verify the fit of the tack in the dash panel after the enlarging the opening.  All went well.

My car came with a console.  As a part of the effort, was the installation of console gages.  The gage kit came with an extension harness to wire the gages into the existing console harness.  The wire from to the fuel gage had to be re routed from the dash to the console - no problem - all went well.  The oil pressure connection is pvc tubing fromt he back of the block, throught the firewall directly to the gage.  Temp gage wiring was already there.  Simply re-routed it from the idiot light in the dash  down to the console and replaced the sending unit from the on/off type for the idiot light to the proper sending unit for the gage.

So far, so good - The ammeter gage in the console required new wiring to be routed into the car and properly terminated in the engine compartment.  For the tach, a seperate lead was run through the firewall to the coil.  Some spaghetti, but not too bad, and all worked well.

Where it really got good was from 2004 to mid 2005 when I completely disassembled the front of the car back to the firewall.  I replaced both engine compartment wiring harnesses.  The replacement engine harness was purchased for a car with console gages.  This harness has the tach, ammeter, temp gage wiring as an integral part of the harness - which completely cleaned up the engine compartment.  Under the dash, instead having to run the ammeter and tach wiring through the dash, they simply terminate at the proper locations on the dash side of the fuse block.  Engine wiring harnes plugs into the engine side of the fuse block and all is as GM originally designed it.

Good luck on the update - take your time - no big deal.

853  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 68 RS 327 Cooling Fan Type on: February 07, 2006, 11:16:50 AM
Check out the CRG report section on cooling systems at this link:

Appears to me that you need the 4 blade fan with spacer.

Let me know if you need a 4 blade fan / spacer.  I have a spare set.
854  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: tracing history on: February 07, 2006, 11:09:22 AM
It has gotten to be very difficult.  After I purchased my 69 RS back in Nov 1991, I began the process of tracing its history.  At the time I lived in Baton Rouge, LA and traced the car back through 3 previous owners by going to the DMV in Louisiana, Mississippi, and Pennsylvania.  Was able to trace it back to a person in Chambersburg, PA who owned the car from April 1983 - Dec 1985.  Couldn't go back any further as the PA DMV told me that their records, at that time, didn't go back any further.  That previous records had been lost due to some occurrence, a fire I believe.  In any event, I realize this doesn't help your effort any, but like your PA title, where you had a F indicated, mine had a P which indicated that the car was at one time registered to a police department.  I've always wondered what that was all about.  Hard to understand why a police department would titale a 69 RS.  In any event, one of those little historical items lost to time.

I also tried a VIN / insurance history check through someone that I knew in the local police department.  Nothing on my car showed up.  However, a friend of mine, who owned a '67 vette at the time, was able to find out through the VIN / insurance check the original date his car was titled, where it was originally titiled as well as the original GM delaership zone in which the car was sold.  If you know someone who would be willing to run this for you, you might get lucky.  My understanding is that this is not something that police depts would normally want to do.

Good luck on your search. 
855  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Help figuring 69 out on: February 06, 2006, 05:07:32 PM
Rebuild cost for the engine was very reasonable.  I live about 60 miles due south of Reno, NV which allowed me to use a very reputable shop in Reno to do the rebuild.  I brought them the complete engine (which I had pulled out of a 69 Camaro that was being parted out back in 1994) and they gave me back the complete engine (from the intake down to the oil pan) completely assembled and ready to go.  In addition to being one of the finer shops in the area, everything was performed in house from the intake to the oil pan.  Nothing was sent out.  They handled the block, cylinder heads (including opening up the intake valves), machining, balancing, etc.  Total cost was less than $2,000.  There is an advantage in this area in that quality work is available at a reasonable price due to the high interest in the hobby in this area.   I wouldn't expect much difference one way or the other between a 307, 327, or a 350 from the late 60's.  All are basically the same engine.

As far as the spin on oil cannister, that went away at the end of the 1968 model year.  In 1969, the cannister was replaced with the spin on filter and the oil fill was relocated from the front of the intake manifold to the driver side valve cover.  PCV / crankcase ventillation routing was from a seperate filter in the air cleaner on the passenger side, through the passenger side valve cover, through the engine, out the driver side valve cover / PCV valve, to the connection in the back at the base of the carburetor throttle body.  Guess my point is, if you have a 69' 327, no oil cannister - it will have a spin on filter and the oil fill is through the driver side valve cover.  I've never used one, but I have seen adapters to convert from the cannister to the spin on filter.  I believe all you do is screw the adapter plate on first and then the spin on filter mounts directly to the adapter.
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