CRG Discussion Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
April 18, 2015, 03:53:33 AM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!
Forum registration problems: Make sure you enter your email correctly and you check your spam box first. *Then* email KurtS2@gmail for help.
112084 Posts in 12879 Topics by 4931 Members
Latest Member: Euclid
* Home Help Search Login Register
  Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 54 55 [56] 57 58 ... 60
826  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 2 Barrel carb tag on: April 10, 2006, 03:00:10 PM
I was able to get the correct carb for my '69 RS 327/210 HP; auto, no A/C (p/n 7029110) from Daytona Parts Company in New Smyrna Beach, Florida; back in April 2005.

The carb I purchased had the tag on in.  Their website is at the following:

Maybe worth a call.

Good luck
827  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Somebody's Feeling Frisky on: April 01, 2006, 07:18:25 PM
Yup - kinda figured that was the case

All good fun.  But imagine the shock with the K Car in the '69's slot!
828  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Adding console gauges and tach for 69 Camaro on: April 01, 2006, 05:07:57 PM
I can only recall one harness in the kit I used that adapted the existting wiring in my non gage console to the required wiring in the console to accept the gages.

If I read Rick's on line catalog correctly, page 199, top right states the following:

Install the console gauge option just like the factory did in non-gauge cars. 100%
correct wiring, colors and connectors. Complete kit with detailed instructions.

Use Console Harness below to complete installation.
6706 67 A/T original console shift ..........
6709 67 A/T original column shift ..........
6705 67 All manual trans .......................
6806 68 A/T original console shift ..........
6809 68 A/T original column shift ..........
6805 68 All manual trans .......................
6906 69 A/T original console shift ..........
6909 69 A/T original column shift ..........
6905 69 All manual trans .......................

I believe that you only need to select one harness from the above listing that fits the particulars of your car, i.e. manual vs. automatic, original column or console shift, etc., and that the one, correct harness will adapt your current setup to accept gages.

There are two othe console harnesses listed below these in Rick's catalog.  As I would read the catalog, these would be replacement harnesses for cars that either came with gages or for non gage cars.  To me these listings are just to simply replace what you already have without converting over from non gage to a gage setup.  Best bet would be to double check with Rick's.

829  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Somebody's Feeling Frisky on: April 01, 2006, 04:50:15 PM
Ok - someone wanted to be funny and it is laughable.

Please remove the 74 Pinto, the 80's something Mustang II, and the Chrysler K car from the pictures on the home page.
830  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Adding console gauges and tach for 69 Camaro on: March 31, 2006, 08:25:39 PM

This topic came up not too long ago - see attached link:

I've done it and it was no problem.  You don't change anything in the dash harness.  The existing setup in a car with idiot lights has a temp line coming in already to the light, just need to take the light out of the circuit and run the temp line to the temp gage.  (Also change out the termperature sending unit to one for gages).  Ammeter and tach leads can be run as new wires from the tach and ammeter gage out through the firewall to the coil, horn relay and the charging circuit junction block near the battery.

If you want to set it up as GM built it, the tach and ammeter leads (3 wires total) need to be terminated at the proper locations in the bulkhead adapter under the fuse block in the interior of the car.  (Temp lead is already properly terminated.)  Then if you replace both wiring harnesses in the engine compartment (engine and front light harnesses) with harnesses that are for a gage setup, you'll pickup the tach and ammeter connections through the bulkhead connectors.

Fuel line connection is simply a matter of extending the existing lead for a fuel gage in the dash to get it down to the console.

The last item is to remove the existing oil pressure switch and connect the oil tubing from the engine through the firewall to the oil pressue gage.  The existing lead for the oil pressure switch can be eliminated as it is no longer used.  (if you change out the harness, one for gages won't have this connection.)

Check out the attached link and let's go from there.

831  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 69 Deluxe interior window cranks on: March 29, 2006, 05:58:55 PM
Never really checked - although probably not
832  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 69 Deluxe interior window cranks on: March 28, 2006, 09:47:32 PM
My 69 RS has blue custom interior (TR 716 on the cowl tag).  The interior (except for the rear package shelf) is original.  The window crank knobs, as JohnZ has indicated, are clear - although a little yellowed with time.
833  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Voltage regulator not working properly? on: March 28, 2006, 12:37:59 AM
Been on the road for a couple of days and just now getting a chance to catch up with the lataest posts.
The solid state regulator has one small circuit board inside with a few resistors, diodes, etc. - and that is it.  No moving parts - nothing to adjust.  When you pick it up and hold it in your hand, you can immediately tell that you are holding the electronic version because it isn't nearly as heavy as the original mechanical style. 

Good luck.
834  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Voltage regulator not working properly? on: March 25, 2006, 10:40:32 PM

I can't help you with the problem that you are having with your original style, mechanical voltage regulator.

However, I do have an upgrade suggestion that I think would be "money in the bank".  There are replacement "solid state" regulators that are physically the same size and footprint of the original.  The only difference is that the cover doesn't say "Delco-Remy" like the original one does.

Most starter/alternator/auto electric repair shops carry (or can order) this solid state replacement regulator.  As I recall, price is in the $25-$40 range.

Going to the local Chevy dealership won't help.  Although you can still get a GM replacement voltage regulator, it is the mechanical (original style).  GM doesn't offer a solid state alternative.  Although I am very much into "originality" when it comes to maintaining and restoring our classic Camaro rides, this is one area where you can perform an upgrade that definitely makes sense and it will be transparent (with one very small exception) to anyone who is looking.

If you decide to use one of these solid state voltage regulators, in order to keep the appearance "original" you will have to replace the cover with an original Delco-Remy cover from an original regulator.  (The original cover has the words "Delco-Remy" stamped in it.)

The cover on the solid state regulators that I have seen are all held on by screws.  The cover on orginal regulators was riveted in place.  No big deal, drill out the rivets and the cover comes off.  Install the Delco-Remy cover on the solid state regulator base, bolt it in place, hook up the connector and you are done - no adjustments - nothing to adjust.  The one small difference in appearance is that the Delco-Remy cover will be bolted in place instead of riveted.  To me a small concession for this reliability upgrade. 

Both my 69 RS and my 66 Chevelle have solid state voltage regulators with original Delco-Remy covers and I haven't had any problems.  5+ years on the Chevelle, 1 year on the RS.
835  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Decoding/Numbers / Re: Correct intake for L30 on: March 25, 2006, 05:14:30 PM
I have a 68 4Bbl Qjet intake, casting number 3919803; Date code D 24 8.  References that I have state useage as '67 / '68, 327 cid 300/350 Hp, no indication in my refs about 350 cid useage.  It is available if anyone can use it.
836  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: sb flywheel (flexplate?) sizes on: March 23, 2006, 09:48:37 PM
I would have thought the same thing - that both covers would fit either flywheel.  Makes sense.
837  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: March 22, 2006, 06:20:51 PM
Bear with me as I mentally walk through this.... I'm out on a business trip and don't have any references with me.

The orange line to the relay valve is a "reference vacuum source" which is applied to the top of the diaphragm in order to control the position of the pilot valve inside the relay. 

The position of the light switch (or operation of the overide on the relay) either leaves vacuum on the orange line to the relay or cuts it off.

Whether vacuum is on or off the orange line to the relay valve then determines diaphragm and pilot valve position which determines vacuum routing from the reservoir tank (yellow striped line) through the relay (via pilot valve position) to either the red striped or green striped lines to the actuators, which then determine doors open or closed.

The test that you made effectively took the light switch out of the equation, routing engine vacuum directly to the reservoir tank and to the orange striped line input to the relay.  Engine running, doors are closed - so far so good.  Moving the relay overide should have the same effect as operating the light swithch.  Vacuum should be removed from the relay reference which should change vacuum routing and open the headlight doors. 

What you've done makes sense - looks like the relay has gone south.  If you remove the relay, you can see the bottom of the pilot valve shaft.  Maybe you can move it slightly, try a drop of oil.  If it is stuck, maybe it will free up.

I'd be interested in knowing if you do conclude that the relay is the problem.

838  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Blue Paint Mark on Steering Column on: March 22, 2006, 06:08:33 PM
Thanks John
839  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Blue Paint Mark on Steering Column on: March 21, 2006, 11:10:48 PM
The attached PDF file contains two pictures of the steering column in my '69 RS back in 2005 when I was reassembling the front end.  After cleaning the column, the blue paint mark appeared.  I am assuming an inspection mark of some sort?

I know someone out there has the answer.


840  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: March 21, 2006, 02:02:11 AM
What you mention in your original post about how the relay valve is labeled vs. what is in the assembly manual is interesting.  I just noticed that the Word doc that I attached in the previous post also shows red on top, green on bottom (same as your relay valve is labeled). 

However, one must assume that the AIM is correct.  GM simply routed the vacuum hoses as needed to work with the original style actuators.  Easier to re-route the tubing as opposed to redesigning the relay valve or actuators.

Attached pictue is one of many reference dissassembly pictures I took of various pieces of the car as I was dismantiling it.  This particular picture shows my relay valve, with original tubing still attached, prior to dissassembly and removal from the car.  White paint marks were my additions to help me keep straight in my mind what tubing went where, etc.

You'll note that green is on top, yellow in the middle, red on bottom - which agrees with the AIM - and is the way Chevrolet (Norwood) assembled it. 

Thanks for pointing this out - good catch


Pages: 1 ... 54 55 [56] 57 58 ... 60
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.758 seconds with 18 queries.