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109059 Posts in 12624 Topics by 4860 Members
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811  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: How do you remove the headlight switch knob? on: April 25, 2006, 09:58:52 AM
...and when you try it - be prepared to exercise a little patience.  On more than one occassion, I've seen the shaft that the knob is attached to not release from the switch simply by depressing the spring loaded plunger on the bottom.  Be prepared to have to wiggle and coax the shaft.  Not unusual for it to be slightly stuck after all of these years and to be a little difficult in getting out.
812  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Voltage regulator not working properly? on: April 24, 2006, 12:27:07 PM
On my '69 RS, I have the ammeter as a part of the console gage package.  I also have the solid state regulator.  When the engine first starts, ammeter deflects sightly to the right (charge) and then comes back to neutral.  No different than a properly funcitoning mechanical / original / type of regulator.
813  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Rally Sport Vacuum problems. HELP! on: April 24, 2006, 11:06:23 AM
10-4

Glad you got it working - very cool when the lights work as advertised.
814  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 1969 spare wheel on: April 21, 2006, 05:14:35 PM
Looks to me like E78x14 is today's P205/70 R14 and the F70x14 is today's P215/70 R14; 8 inch wide and 8.5 inch wide (approx) tires.

From the following link:  http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevylist/tech/tire_size_conversion.htm

Assuming that I am reading the chart correctly - not the most intuitive thing.
815  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 1969 spare wheel on: April 21, 2006, 12:44:32 PM
What would be the correct P-Metric equivalents for E78x14 and F70x14?
816  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 1969 spare wheel on: April 20, 2006, 01:41:57 PM
My '69 RS has all 5 original 14" rally wheels.  At one time, I verified that the code, on all 5 of the Kelsey Hayes ralleys, was the same. Can't seem to find that info right now.  Guess I'll have to note it again next time one of the wheel is off the car.

As an aside, when I bought the car in 1991, it actually had what may have been one of the original tires on the spare in the trunk, a Goodyear Polyglas E7014.  That tire is still the spare tire in the trunk to this day.  Hope I never have a flat, as I would not want to have to consider the use of that tire.  The tires that I have on the car are repro Polyglas E7014's to match the one in the trunk.  If not the original tire, looks good.
817  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 1969 Alternator date on: April 20, 2006, 01:28:45 PM
Sorry I don't have one Dave - but I'll keep my eyes open.

But a man whose ride I definitely want to see  - '69 w/327.  My kind of guy!
818  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: re-stamping a block on: April 18, 2006, 04:08:46 PM
Although, not a cloned car, to me a restamp is still a restamp - originality has been lost in the sense that there now is no way to prove that the restamped engine was original to the car.  Doesn't matter that you know it is original, no way to "prove" it that I am aware of...and a car commanding high $$$$ needs documentation to justify the $$$$.  I don't believe that restamping qualifies as documentation.  To easy to fake. As you state - two shops that you know of that will do this.  Will they only restamp original blocks or will they stamp anything?

If the car is put on the market at some time in the future, and it is clearly stated that the block has been decked and restamped, and the potential buyer acknowledges this and agrees, no harm, no foul....but if that fact is not mentioned, ......now we are into the arena of personal ethics.

Last year I finally installed the correct 327 in my '69RS.  When I bought the car in 1991, it had the wrong 327 in it -   a mismash of parts from a variety of engines.  Over the years, I found the correct 327, pulled it out of a '69 Camaro that was being parted out, engine partial VIN and car VIN agreed, best information said the engine was original to the parts car.  Date code was acceptable.  I needed a FK code, this one was FJ (powerglide vs. 3 spd manual). 

When I had the machine work done on the replacement 327, I fully documented (pictures) the pad stamp prior to sending the engine to the machine shop.  I never considered a restamp.  Kind of proud of the fact that the engine originally installed in a plain jane 3 spd coupe, VIN# 124379N551248; engine code V1122FJ, is now in my ride.

Whoever winds up with my RS after I'm long gone, will also get a plethora of documentation describing everything that I know about the car.  Only being honest with the next owner.
819  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: ac delco voltage regulator part number for 68 L34? on: April 14, 2006, 12:58:47 PM
It may just be old age, but in both pictures, the top (black) covers appear to be bolted to the base.  From what I've seen, original ones had the top riveted to the base..
820  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: 68 RS hideaway headlight doors intermittent on: April 13, 2006, 02:22:54 PM
Don:

I had this problem occasionally on my 69 RS prior to reworking the system last year.  When I took the door assemblies appart, I discovered that a couple of plastic bushings that guide/support the shaft that the doors articulate on were missing at the bottom location on both sides.  Probably just wore out over time.  So one possibility is shaft binding due to worn/missing bushings.  Additionally, a little moly spray lube is helpful as well.

I've also noticed a tendencey for the doors to stick open if the vacuum hose routing isn't exactly as it is supposed to be.  On the '69 there are a couple of large u shaped clips that bolt to the front of the radiator support, one on each side.  As the vacuum hoses run down the radiator support to the actuators, they are supposed to be captured by these clips.  On mine, if one of the hoses slips out, it can interfere slightly with the movement of the door in the open position - and actually press against the door cover when the door is open - and hold it in the open position.  A slight push on the door would release the binding condition with the loose hose and the door would close.  I assume that the '68 setup is similar.  If it is, be sure the vacuum hoses are routed/secured properly.

And as a final thought - check valve ok in the main vacuum line from the intake?  Relay valve working properly?  Anything that might affect the correct  vacuum routing at all times to the actuators.
821  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: 2 Barrel carb tag on: April 10, 2006, 03:00:10 PM
I was able to get the correct carb for my '69 RS 327/210 HP; auto, no A/C (p/n 7029110) from Daytona Parts Company in New Smyrna Beach, Florida; back in April 2005.

The carb I purchased had the tag on in.  Their website is at the following:  http://www.daytonaparts.com/

Maybe worth a call.

Good luck
822  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Somebody's Feeling Frisky on: April 01, 2006, 07:18:25 PM
Yup - kinda figured that was the case

All good fun.  But imagine the shock with the K Car in the '69's slot!
823  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Adding console gauges and tach for 69 Camaro on: April 01, 2006, 05:07:57 PM
I can only recall one harness in the kit I used that adapted the existting wiring in my non gage console to the required wiring in the console to accept the gages.

If I read Rick's on line catalog correctly, page 199, top right states the following:

CONSOLE GAUGE CONVERSION HARNESS
Install the console gauge option just like the factory did in non-gauge cars. 100%
correct wiring, colors and connectors. Complete kit with detailed instructions.

Use Console Harness below to complete installation.
6706 67 A/T original console shift ..........
6709 67 A/T original column shift ..........
6705 67 All manual trans .......................
6806 68 A/T original console shift ..........
6809 68 A/T original column shift ..........
6805 68 All manual trans .......................
6906 69 A/T original console shift ..........
6909 69 A/T original column shift ..........
6905 69 All manual trans .......................

I believe that you only need to select one harness from the above listing that fits the particulars of your car, i.e. manual vs. automatic, original column or console shift, etc., and that the one, correct harness will adapt your current setup to accept gages.

There are two othe console harnesses listed below these in Rick's catalog.  As I would read the catalog, these would be replacement harnesses for cars that either came with gages or for non gage cars.  To me these listings are just to simply replace what you already have without converting over from non gage to a gage setup.  Best bet would be to double check with Rick's.

Richard
824  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Somebody's Feeling Frisky on: April 01, 2006, 04:50:15 PM
Ok - someone wanted to be funny and it is laughable.

Please remove the 74 Pinto, the 80's something Mustang II, and the Chrysler K car from the pictures on the home page.
825  Camaro Research Group Discussion / General Discussion / Re: Adding console gauges and tach for 69 Camaro on: March 31, 2006, 08:25:39 PM
Guys:

This topic came up not too long ago - see attached link:

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=281.0

I've done it and it was no problem.  You don't change anything in the dash harness.  The existing setup in a car with idiot lights has a temp line coming in already to the light, just need to take the light out of the circuit and run the temp line to the temp gage.  (Also change out the termperature sending unit to one for gages).  Ammeter and tach leads can be run as new wires from the tach and ammeter gage out through the firewall to the coil, horn relay and the charging circuit junction block near the battery.

If you want to set it up as GM built it, the tach and ammeter leads (3 wires total) need to be terminated at the proper locations in the bulkhead adapter under the fuse block in the interior of the car.  (Temp lead is already properly terminated.)  Then if you replace both wiring harnesses in the engine compartment (engine and front light harnesses) with harnesses that are for a gage setup, you'll pickup the tach and ammeter connections through the bulkhead connectors.

Fuel line connection is simply a matter of extending the existing lead for a fuel gage in the dash to get it down to the console.

The last item is to remove the existing oil pressure switch and connect the oil tubing from the engine through the firewall to the oil pressue gage.  The existing lead for the oil pressure switch can be eliminated as it is no longer used.  (if you change out the harness, one for gages won't have this connection.)

Check out the attached link and let's go from there.

Richard
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