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 Your post in Team Camaro was honestly answered with the same information you just got here. There was no sarcasm in the replies, unless you took something wrong. This site and Team Camaro work closely together and have many members that use both sites. We strive for accurate information and when strange stories surface, folks tend to dive deep into them to figure out the truth about a car. The numbers AND PHOTOS of the numbers, as requested several times in Team Camaro and here, will bring out the 'facts' about your engine. Be patient, reply with what folks request and the truth will be known.

Mild Modifications / Re: powerglide to th350 conversion
« on: June 09, 2013, 01:58:37 PM »
Mike if its like this pic of my setup, my mechanic torched away the lower lip of the engine mount to give access to the pan bolts on the 700r I had installed. If you are not concerned with 'originality' of the mount, it might be an option for you.

General Discussion / Re: Z10 on eb@y
« on: June 04, 2013, 05:26:59 PM »
Missing the extra RS solenoid on top of the wiper motor... rear stripes are painted wrong, so its either been repainted or spoiler added or something is not original... the stripe should end 'under' the spoiler and not follow down over the trunk lip.  Without a pic of the trim tag, its hard to know what it was originally. Without original engine, every worse to figure out.

General Discussion / Re: Property Tax Rate Schedule
« on: March 20, 2013, 09:01:36 PM »
No personal property tax here in Minnesota either.. collector plates for my camaro were a ONE time fee of around $100. No renewal or tabs :) 
  Iowa is looking at legislation to TAX big motor homes that are being registered in Montana and other states under LLC systems... like Danny mentioned. They are closing those tax loopholes in alot of  states these days.   Oh well

General Discussion / Re: Interesting 69 For Sale
« on: January 05, 2013, 04:29:49 PM »
Im pretty sure that the LM1's could have PG or Th350 and could have 10 bolt or 12 bolt... several of these combos have been seen over the years. Depends on what you 'ordered' .  Mine was LM1 with Th350 and 12 bolt 308...

General Discussion / Re: building a garage
« on: December 20, 2012, 04:10:51 PM »
John have you any need for an 'adopted' family?  :)

General Discussion / Re: building a garage
« on: December 20, 2012, 03:47:37 PM »
Our pole building required the posts to go down 5' below grade as well but no concrete footing under 32x50 pole barn has not moved an inch in the 8 years its been up. Much cheaper to build for sure but sadly you cant 'attach' a pole building to a home or structure that has concrete footings since the 2 styles of construction move differently. Maybe down south they can?

General Discussion / Re: building a garage
« on: December 20, 2012, 03:28:10 PM »
Our frost line requirement for footings is 5 feet below grade, since our frost can go down almost that far here in Minnesota. Frost will 'heave' a footing and affect the structure above it, if it moves.

 Note, you dont go 42" below frost line itself... you go 42" below grade...

General Discussion / Re: building a garage
« on: December 20, 2012, 03:05:08 PM »
When we wanted to add an attached 24x26 garage to our old farm house, we had no limits on height or size, our garage part is 24' deep, and 26' wide, we also had 10' more feet in additional width as a 10' wide entry for our house which we needed badly, then we have 8' overhang in front and 12' overhang in back for a 12'x36' screen porch. Our zoning does not consider overhangs as part of the dimension for future taxes that you apply for. The overhang is taxed at much lower valueation...  but consider these hints:

1. Truss company will help you design the roofing trusses (most do it for free) to maximize space you can use above and below the trusses. Consider " attic trusses " which give you full stand up height storage space in the 'attic' area but on the outside it still looks like a 1 1/2 story design to get you past nosey neighbors or inspectors.
 The trusses can also be built to extend out over your garage doors for a HUGE overhang area in front of the doors. Great for parking cars under the overhang in winter for guests plus it keeps rain away from your garage doors. My overhang is 8 feet out from the garage doors. :)
They do wonders these days with custom designed trusses that give you huge storage areas, then add gable end windows for ventilation and light up there.

2. Use 2x6's for your walls, allows more insulation and strength for 'attic truss' needs.

3. I also 2nd the  "in slab" heat, its wonderful but remember to plan it so that any lift you install wont puncture any heat tubes in the floor. In fact, if you plan your lift location accurately, you can 'beef' up those corner locations with more slab concrete at those points where you will have bolts installed. Then you route your slab heat tubes around those areas.

4. Use at minimum a 100 amp elec. breaker box just for the new garage, so you have endless power options, 200amp boxes are about the same price but you might have to have new 200amp service pulled in from the pole, which adds to the price. Then put 20amp GFI outlets every 4' all the way around your new garage, plus a 220v if you plan on welding equipment. Also have exterior outlets on all 4 sides.

5. Plan your CAT 5 wires and TV cable for internet and speaker wires for TV and stereo system or surround sound.

6. Buy only thermal insulated windows of course to hold heat and keep out hot air in the summer.

7. Consider a heavy dute ventilation fan to exhaust summer heat out and any fumes you might create in the garage.

 Those are a few ideas that we used in our new garage.

Here are some pics that might give you some ideas and ask if you have any questions about our project  :

General Discussion / Re: Z10 on Ebay
« on: December 18, 2012, 03:14:38 PM »
Thats a gorgeous car but I noticed a few things that are not correct... the blue GM sticker on the drivers door was never there in 1969. The air cleaner rubber cowl seal is on 'upside down'. It needs to be flipped inside out. There is no solenoid on the carb. that kicks the idle up when the a/c is turned on. Thats all I noticed but easily corrected things. Wish I had won the lottery lately :)

General Discussion / Re: Camaro on Ebay
« on: December 15, 2012, 05:16:14 PM »
Just an FYI , the build date on my 69 RS with block  # 3932388 was 10D, so a 10B could very likely be correct with the ...388 block.

General Discussion / Re: Bellcrank hole
« on: November 20, 2012, 05:13:07 PM »
 This template should help you. The gentleman that drew these up, Mark X22, passed away this week. :(

General Discussion / Re: Official CRG Cap?
« on: October 31, 2012, 07:06:09 PM »
Over at Team Camaro, years ago, the previous owner, Al, set up a system with a company in Iowa, (forgot the name) and all he had to do was provide approved logos etc. and then folks just direct ordered from the company in Iowa. The TC site never had to mess with anything. Im sure a similar situation could be set up for CRG  :)

Restoration / Re: 69 515 Voltage regulator R & R
« on: September 17, 2012, 08:29:24 PM »
Why not just install the Wells VR715 electronic regulator and put your old cap onto it? Fits like a glove.  Nobody would be the wiser and its much more reliable. And only around  $10 at most parts stores. :)

Maintenance / Re: Electrical Drain
« on: August 13, 2012, 06:11:46 PM »
Easiest way to learn the system is in the AIM  Assembly Instruction Manual has complete wiring diagrams.
 In the mean time.. buy a 12v light stick at local parts house.. unclamp NEG battery cable, clamp the wire end of the light stick to the cable and 'stick' the pointy sharp end into the battery terminal. (or clamp it with vise grips) Im guessing it lights up right away if you have a drain.  Now start pulling fuses from your fuse box under the dash, one at a time, peek up to the light stick and see if its still lighted up... if so, replace that fuse and pull another one... keep going till you find a fuse that turns off the light stick... presto there is your open circuit, then using the AIM diagrams, back track the wire to its various end uses till you find a frayed wire or crimp or direct short and fix it. 

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