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241  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Surging... on: August 19, 2008, 04:08:10 PM
I zapped myself offline before I finished the last part - The car hasn't backfired for years and doesn't run rich at all even with this new surging issue - so I doubt that the power valve is bad. I thought that surging is ususally a symptom of a lean condition if I recall correctly.
If my little vacuum port plug was in fact leaking due to the small crack in it, would or could that small amount cause it to suck enough air if it was jetted close to possibly get it into the lean spectrum of operation? Opinions? - Thanks - Randy
242  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Surging... on: August 19, 2008, 04:02:19 PM
I removed the choke altogether years ago and plugged the holes in the body - it was a pian always ending up partially closed at some point and I just removed it rather than fighting with it or trying to wire it open. I have thought about the metering blocks as I had trouble with varnish or a small particle of something stuck in there a few years back and after fighting with it and finally dislodging whatever it was the difference was amazing in the smoothness and operation of the carb. The gas I stored it with this winter is the avaition fuel I mentioned which according to the guy who distributes it to our local airports and private operators, contains a certain staliizer compound so it won't varnish up in the carbs of planes on floats that sit unused over the winters here - so I'm assuming it shouldn't be varnish. The one thing I'm not sureabout is if it is hard on the rubber or viton needle and seat parts like racing fuels are.

243  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Re: Surging... on: August 19, 2008, 12:31:06 PM
  
  Changed the points, Set dwell and timing. Reset float levels( holley 670 Street Avenger), Adjusted mixture w/ vacuum guage. Surge/Jerkiness now gone.

   How old are your ignition system components and what is the condition of the disributor?
   I look forward to other's comments on this subject as well. Others are more qualified for diagnostics than I.
   Footnote: I switched to full manifold vacuum( for vacuum advance) as per John Z's advice.

I am using the 266 distributor from my 302 and it is in perfect condition and has the limiting sleeve for the shortened advance  - threw in a Pertronix Ignitor II a couple of years or so back replacing the points so dwell and adjustments are not applicable here. Aside from points I wondered if the weights might be sticking since the car sits 10 moths of the year - but assumed it wouldnt idle down well if they were doing that.
What's with the full manifold vacuum? - I had heard a bit about it in the past but I must admit I am not quite sure where to obtain it from - right now I am pulling from a port on the front passengers side of the carb approximately 1/2 - 2/3's of the way up the metering block and I suspect that is what is considered ported vacuum. How do I get full - right off the manifiold somehow? And what does it do better than the ported type?
I just went out and looked at the carb and I see that the port that is on the front of the base plate that I had capped (which might be a full vacuum port?) has a very small tear in the end of it it so I will try another one to replace it - could it be that is maybe all it could take - hard to imagine but I will try it anyway...
I haven't yet as I said, tried anything to cure this surging problem and was just hopefull the majority of any and all suggestions posted back would help me cut down on the things I would need to try before I could get it solved.
The full vacuum is interesting but I seem to recall putting the dist canister line on the lower post that I mentioned and I couldn't get the timing to settle down at idle sufficiently to warrant using it. - Thanks for you input - Randy
244  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Maintenance / Surging... on: August 19, 2008, 07:15:28 AM
Hope you guys can lead me some here so I don't spend a lot of time wasted...
My '68 suddenly developed a surging or jerkiness when driving and I would like to have some input to where anyone (everyone) thinks I should look for a cure. The car suddenly lately seems to require a lot more cranking over to get it to catch than previously after it sits for a few days and seems a bit rougher until it warms up some. It does still drive normally until I either let it cruise under 2000 rpms at a steady throttle or take my foot off the pedal slightly to decellerate some - then it starts to buck in any gear. It gets progressively worse to the point where I either have to stick in the clutch when approaching a light (much sooner than I would normally) or drop it down a gear or two to get the revs up but it is only a cure until it slows and starts it again.
I'm not lugging it as this occurs between 1200 and 2000 rpm and it never did this previously - just started the other day and seems to be getting a bit worse and somewhat harder to start after it sits for a while (hour or more) where it started great previously in that timeframe. It still idles great and has good pull through the gears.
My thoughts were in some order of importance and effort (a) float level issues which I haven't checked yet (b) carb issues with needle and seats being the prime area to look at after a general clean out (c) I've got a new set of plugs ready to go in (delco R45's) but these characteristics don't really make me believe that they would fix a surging problem (d) changing the inline fuel filters to try and get any type of fuel flow improvements that might bring - but the ones I have in now don't appear to have any crap in them and my tank was lined a few years back and never has shown any junk in the fuel (e) I am runing 100LL aviation fuel and it seems to work great - this is the only thing new to the set up and operation of the car in the past year or two prior to the surging issues lately which appear to be getting slowly worse as I mentioned.
Any ideas as to where I should best aim my efforts so I don't head off on a tangent here. Specs - 350  / 9:75 cr / Holley double pumper 650 / '68 Z28 intake & heads / mild cam 232 - 238 degree @.050" / headers / timing 14 degees initial - 34 total @ 2600 rpm...
Thanks for any comments or suggestions so I don't spend a lot of time endlessly wandering through this...  Randy
   
245  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel on: July 09, 2008, 09:00:45 AM
Randy--that's the wheel I'm going to use. There was no Comfort Grip '68 wheel. In fact, I'm picking the stuff up tomorrow! There is no more than an inch difference in depth to the driver if you use the '68 walnut wheel hub, which is not as shallow as the '69 hub. How it will seem once installed in the car remains to be seen....chuckle. I simply like the black wheel better than the walnut '68 wheel. I'm covered up with a hundred other things, but I'll let ya know as soon as I put it on. I'm crossing my fingers that it'll work. 

Thanks for getting back - I'd be curious to know what you think of it when it is installed. I too love the look of the black rim on those wheels verses the wood style - it's too bad someone deosn't choose to reproduce them exactly to the '68 dimensions because I think they could be quite popular and a good alternative to the rosewood or walnut repros if the price was decent. I'm assuming they could be produced for the same or less than the repro wood style ones as the graining and detaiing etc wouldn't be necessary in the black comfort grip type and should make it less problematic to produce.
I'd be interested in hearing of your impressions once it is in place.       Randy
246  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel on: July 08, 2008, 10:03:37 AM
Hot Rod - did you ever try the '69 variation of the Comfort Grip well to see how it fit? 
If so what were your impressions of how it fits and looks with the shallower dish and does it make any big difference in the fit for the driver. I saw another article of a car with one installed in a '69 and it sure looked great and it prompted me to post again to you...  Thanks - Randy
247  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: Mufflers.... on: June 17, 2008, 11:38:15 AM
The transverse kit from Heartbeat City or D&R Classic worls fine. Not too loud but classic sounding. Without the 11:1, 30-30 early exhaust valve opening, 302 it just won't sound the same at all.

  Yea, I regretfully realize that Gary - I am going to go with a couple of under the floor-type replacements for the cost and convenience of installation since that is where the car presently has mufflers installed, otherwise I'm looking at changing a lot more of the piping than I want to spend the money on right now.

   I really should put the 302 back in if for no other reason than just to hear it again. I used to have people follow and stop me just to comment on how the car sounded when the Z motor was in.  Not that what I have now sounds all that bad - its just not the same though as I'm sure many of you certainly realize.  - Randy
248  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: Mufflers.... on: June 11, 2008, 03:50:51 PM


   Thanks for the replies - I still don't quite know what to do with this but I will get the car out of storage next week and take a good look to see just what dimensions the old mufflers are and what would fit in place of them with the least amount of trouble then take a hard look at the Flowmasters - probably 40 series and go from there.
    I had a guy in a '69 Superbee pull up beside me at a light a few nights ago and his car sounded pretty good. When I managed to get his attention he said they were Flowmaster 40 series as well and if I could get my car to sound at idle at least as good it would work for me.
    As I said I do realize this is a very personal thing and somewhat dependant on the particular vehicle and installation characteristics as well...    Thanks - Randy
249  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: Mufflers.... on: June 03, 2008, 04:02:43 PM

   Something like a Gardner system certainly would be nice - but too many $$'s for me - plus too hard to get (read $$'s again) up here in Northern Ontario. Thanks anyway...
 
   I'm just trying to find out if set of Flowmasters or DynoMax or (insert brand and/or model) would sound and operate best within the parameters offered for my car - in anyone's opinion who may wish to share their experiences with some particular types  they have heard or are using presently.   Randy
250  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Mufflers.... on: June 03, 2008, 12:05:30 PM
    I have a 68 Z from which the original 302 has been removed (stored on an engine stand in the workshop) and replaced with a 350. This 'replacement' engine has ported fuelie heads, Z manifold, 650 double pumper, 1 5/8 headers, and a 332/338 degree @.050" hydraulic cam (and Yes I am sorry that I didn't throw in the mechanical Z 28 replacement version) and approximately 9.5 : 1 compression ratio.
    I built the engine to enable me to get better mileage, use mostly available pump gas, and be a bit more driveable on the street (all of which the 302 obviously wasn't that good at) but it doesn't sound as good as I would like in comparison obviously. The car now has what appears to be a pair of turbo (no name brand) mufflers with a full original-style exhaust system - 2 1/4" in size less the transverse muffler....

    I would like to replace my mufflers and without starting a real poll, would like some suggestions as to what any of you would consider to be a good for such a set up. I don't want to end up with a race type deal where I can't hear myself think or carry on a conversation in the car when driving, but the ones on the car now are a little too quiet for my taste. I do realize that this is a very subjective and personal thing but I thought it might help me weed through the multitude of choices and narrow it down somewhat.

    I appreciate any and all comments and suggestions with this.  - Randy

       
251  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Originality / Re: 1969 Smog pump on: May 09, 2008, 05:43:32 PM
I think any camaro with a standard trans in the first generation  had a smog setup .Correct me if I am incorrect.

   I know from mine that '68 Z28 models were exempt as imported into Canada in that year from the typical smog equipment setup (pump etc) that was required in the US.

   I'm trying to recall - I think it was code something like KD1 which designated the Canadian Smog Exemption - and was quoted on my GM Canada Vintage Car Services documentation.

                                                          Randy

252  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel on: May 08, 2008, 05:17:57 PM
I prefer the look and feel of the Comfort Grip wheel, and if it doesn't work, I can take the stuff back and no harm, no foul. This is one time I'm lucky I know someone who will allow me to experiment and it won't cost me anything. And yes--the walnut, rosewood and Comfort Grip wheels require a special  hub and trim. They were their own animal.

Yea it is a nice situation to be in certainly - especially if'in you don't have to try and return it cross borders, through customs, and endure ridiculous shipping charges after doing all of that to even get it in the first place.
Please pass along what you find in your trials to get one in place - I'm all ears as to how you view the finished fit and dimension changes since you basically have a side by side comparison going on. Even to the point of posting a picture or two if you get the chance to actually show just how good it probably looks. I have a black 712 interior and I feel a comfort grip deal would look great in that situation.
My thinking is it would sort of blend in like a regular wheel would with just a bit more splash to dress everything up a bit - sort of like when you see a car sometimes that really catches your attention and you know that there was something done to it to make it different but just can't quite put your finger immediately on what it is - sort of thing...

Thanks for your response. - Randy
253  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel on: May 07, 2008, 03:37:07 AM


  I was intending to try and find a similar style of wheel as discussed here for my '68 Z some point down the road and do actually prefer the look (and probably the price as well) of a comfort grip style over the wood types that are available. Is there a comfort grip version that would be an exact replacement dimension-wise for a '68 model.
  I know many of the wood wheels also need and can be purchased with a specific adapter (kit?) that includes a new hub or transition piece to cover the area between the wheel itself and the column. Would and does any comfort grip that might be a direct replacement for a stock type wheel require such a kit to make it look like stock?
  Thanks for any info - sorry to hijack a bit here...   Randy
254  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Mild Modifications / Re: Air Shocks on: December 09, 2007, 11:32:03 PM
Fred:

  I did buy a set of MA 711's this summer but never installed them - actually only drove the car twice and not since early August, so I never installed them to try them out! Your part number ends with the same 711 sequence so I'm betting I indeed have the correct ones when and if I ever get them on.
The car is away in storage for the last month and won't see the light of day until next May so I hope to get them on at that time, if not I may as well not keep the car considering how little it is getting use...

    Thanks - Randy
255  Camaro Research Group Discussion / Restoration / Re: Breaking in a motor on: September 03, 2007, 08:26:19 PM

What needs to be done with the old distributor to use it to prime the motor?

Thanks,

Tom:

   All I did was take the dist. gear off and grind away all of the teeth that would normally mesh with the cam gear teeth so once you drop it down it won't mesh with the cam and try and spin it at the same time you are turning the oil pump to bring up the pressure...
   As long as the diameter of the ground section (where the teeth were) ends up being the same as the top section of the gear - or slightly smaller in diameter it will work great, sealing off the oil passages as any normal distributor would and yet still surround and engage the oil pump slot in a positive way.
   I also took the advance mechanism section off (where the springs and weights normally reside) and ground the round shaft into a hex shape so a cordless drill could be easily grip it and all was done... 
   Randy   

Sorry I meant 'same as the LOWER section of the gear'...  Randy
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