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Messages - dutch

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376
Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel
« on: July 08, 2008, 03:03:37 PM »
Hot Rod - did you ever try the '69 variation of the Comfort Grip well to see how it fit? 
If so what were your impressions of how it fits and looks with the shallower dish and does it make any big difference in the fit for the driver. I saw another article of a car with one installed in a '69 and it sure looked great and it prompted me to post again to you...  Thanks - Randy

377
Mild Modifications / Re: Mufflers....
« on: June 17, 2008, 04:38:15 PM »
The transverse kit from Heartbeat City or D&R Classic worls fine. Not too loud but classic sounding. Without the 11:1, 30-30 early exhaust valve opening, 302 it just won't sound the same at all.

  Yea, I regretfully realize that Gary - I am going to go with a couple of under the floor-type replacements for the cost and convenience of installation since that is where the car presently has mufflers installed, otherwise I'm looking at changing a lot more of the piping than I want to spend the money on right now.

   I really should put the 302 back in if for no other reason than just to hear it again. I used to have people follow and stop me just to comment on how the car sounded when the Z motor was in.  Not that what I have now sounds all that bad - its just not the same though as I'm sure many of you certainly realize.  - Randy

378
Mild Modifications / Re: Mufflers....
« on: June 11, 2008, 08:50:51 PM »


   Thanks for the replies - I still don't quite know what to do with this but I will get the car out of storage next week and take a good look to see just what dimensions the old mufflers are and what would fit in place of them with the least amount of trouble then take a hard look at the Flowmasters - probably 40 series and go from there.
    I had a guy in a '69 Superbee pull up beside me at a light a few nights ago and his car sounded pretty good. When I managed to get his attention he said they were Flowmaster 40 series as well and if I could get my car to sound at idle at least as good it would work for me.
    As I said I do realize this is a very personal thing and somewhat dependant on the particular vehicle and installation characteristics as well...    Thanks - Randy

379
Mild Modifications / Re: Mufflers....
« on: June 03, 2008, 09:02:43 PM »
http://www.gardnerexhaust.com/gardnermovie.html

Paul

   Something like a Gardner system certainly would be nice - but too many $$'s for me - plus too hard to get (read $$'s again) up here in Northern Ontario. Thanks anyway...
 
   I'm just trying to find out if set of Flowmasters or DynoMax or (insert brand and/or model) would sound and operate best within the parameters offered for my car - in anyone's opinion who may wish to share their experiences with some particular types  they have heard or are using presently.   Randy

380
Mild Modifications / Mufflers....
« on: June 03, 2008, 05:05:30 PM »
    I have a 68 Z from which the original 302 has been removed (stored on an engine stand in the workshop) and replaced with a 350. This 'replacement' engine has ported fuelie heads, Z manifold, 650 double pumper, 1 5/8 headers, and a 332/338 degree @.050" hydraulic cam (and Yes I am sorry that I didn't throw in the mechanical Z 28 replacement version) and approximately 9.5 : 1 compression ratio.
    I built the engine to enable me to get better mileage, use mostly available pump gas, and be a bit more driveable on the street (all of which the 302 obviously wasn't that good at) but it doesn't sound as good as I would like in comparison obviously. The car now has what appears to be a pair of turbo (no name brand) mufflers with a full original-style exhaust system - 2 1/4" in size less the transverse muffler....

    I would like to replace my mufflers and without starting a real poll, would like some suggestions as to what any of you would consider to be a good for such a set up. I don't want to end up with a race type deal where I can't hear myself think or carry on a conversation in the car when driving, but the ones on the car now are a little too quiet for my taste. I do realize that this is a very subjective and personal thing but I thought it might help me weed through the multitude of choices and narrow it down somewhat.

    I appreciate any and all comments and suggestions with this.  - Randy

       

381
Originality / Re: 1969 Smog pump
« on: May 09, 2008, 10:43:32 PM »
I think any camaro with a standard trans in the first generation  had a smog setup .Correct me if I am incorrect.

   I know from mine that '68 Z28 models were exempt as imported into Canada in that year from the typical smog equipment setup (pump etc) that was required in the US.

   I'm trying to recall - I think it was code something like KD1 which designated the Canadian Smog Exemption - and was quoted on my GM Canada Vintage Car Services documentation.

                                                          Randy


382
Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel
« on: May 08, 2008, 10:17:57 PM »
I prefer the look and feel of the Comfort Grip wheel, and if it doesn't work, I can take the stuff back and no harm, no foul. This is one time I'm lucky I know someone who will allow me to experiment and it won't cost me anything. And yes--the walnut, rosewood and Comfort Grip wheels require a special  hub and trim. They were their own animal.

Yea it is a nice situation to be in certainly - especially if'in you don't have to try and return it cross borders, through customs, and endure ridiculous shipping charges after doing all of that to even get it in the first place.
Please pass along what you find in your trials to get one in place - I'm all ears as to how you view the finished fit and dimension changes since you basically have a side by side comparison going on. Even to the point of posting a picture or two if you get the chance to actually show just how good it probably looks. I have a black 712 interior and I feel a comfort grip deal would look great in that situation.
My thinking is it would sort of blend in like a regular wheel would with just a bit more splash to dress everything up a bit - sort of like when you see a car sometimes that really catches your attention and you know that there was something done to it to make it different but just can't quite put your finger immediately on what it is - sort of thing...

Thanks for your response. - Randy

383
Mild Modifications / Re: '69 "Comfort Grip" steering wheel
« on: May 07, 2008, 08:37:07 AM »


  I was intending to try and find a similar style of wheel as discussed here for my '68 Z some point down the road and do actually prefer the look (and probably the price as well) of a comfort grip style over the wood types that are available. Is there a comfort grip version that would be an exact replacement dimension-wise for a '68 model.
  I know many of the wood wheels also need and can be purchased with a specific adapter (kit?) that includes a new hub or transition piece to cover the area between the wheel itself and the column. Would and does any comfort grip that might be a direct replacement for a stock type wheel require such a kit to make it look like stock?
  Thanks for any info - sorry to hijack a bit here...   Randy

384
Mild Modifications / Re: Air Shocks
« on: December 10, 2007, 04:32:03 AM »
Fred:

  I did buy a set of MA 711's this summer but never installed them - actually only drove the car twice and not since early August, so I never installed them to try them out! Your part number ends with the same 711 sequence so I'm betting I indeed have the correct ones when and if I ever get them on.
The car is away in storage for the last month and won't see the light of day until next May so I hope to get them on at that time, if not I may as well not keep the car considering how little it is getting use...

    Thanks - Randy

385
Restoration / Re: Breaking in a motor
« on: September 04, 2007, 01:26:19 AM »

What needs to be done with the old distributor to use it to prime the motor?

Thanks,

Tom:

   All I did was take the dist. gear off and grind away all of the teeth that would normally mesh with the cam gear teeth so once you drop it down it won't mesh with the cam and try and spin it at the same time you are turning the oil pump to bring up the pressure...
   As long as the diameter of the ground section (where the teeth were) ends up being the same as the top section of the gear - or slightly smaller in diameter it will work great, sealing off the oil passages as any normal distributor would and yet still surround and engage the oil pump slot in a positive way.
   I also took the advance mechanism section off (where the springs and weights normally reside) and ground the round shaft into a hex shape so a cordless drill could be easily grip it and all was done... 
   Randy   

Sorry I meant 'same as the LOWER section of the gear'...  Randy

386
Restoration / Re: Breaking in a motor
« on: September 04, 2007, 01:22:19 AM »

What needs to be done with the old distributor to use it to prime the motor?

Thanks,

Tom:

   All I did was take the dist. gear off and grind away all of the teeth that would normally mesh with the cam gear teeth so once you drop it down it won't mesh with the cam and try and spin it at the same time you are turning the oil pump to bring up the pressure...
   As long as the diameter of the ground section (where the teeth were) ends up being the same as the top section of the gear - or slightly smaller in diameter it will work great, sealing off the oil passages as any normal distributor would and yet still surround and engage the oil pump slot in a positive way.
   I also took the advance mechanism section off (where the springs and weights normally reside) and ground the round shaft into a hex shape so a cordless drill could be easily grip it and all was done... 
   Randy   

387
Maintenance / Re: Oil Pressure question.........
« on: August 23, 2007, 04:57:56 PM »
I think that there is a maximum pressure that you want as well, maybe 60-70 psi, even when you are accelerating at high RPM. Too much can be as detrimental as not enough. Jerry Mac shifts his engine at 8200 RPM when racing, so he ought to know what works.
Jimmy V.

Most people think they need big pressure and volume and opt for the big block style pumps only to find they either pump too much oil into the upper end and oversaturate everything and/or suck the pan dry (if its a regular OEM style pan) and end up with really big problems. All a big pump with volume and pressure increases does is eat up HP trying to spin it while creating other oiling 'overkill' problems.
My 302 gets about 65psi when running over at 3000 rpm or over and idles hot at about 40-45psi and its just a regular volume (albeit higher pressure) Z28-style aftermarket Speed Pro version (which I think means it only has a slightly different pressure spring installed) and I consider it all or more than that or any other similar engine should ever need.
I have read stories where high winding small blocks are drag raced with setups where the engine basically runs out of light grade oil in the pan at the same point it finishes the quarter mile run - essentially ending with 0 psi oil pressure and the engine lives quite well for years. Sounded like a pretty dicey way to run an engine to me, but users assume they are saving horsepower by using as light an oil and as small a volume as possible... Apparently the oil film left is sufficient for a few seconds of low engine speed operation until the oil gathers back in the pan in the shutdown area past the finsih line - but it does demonstrate that not a lot of pressure or volume is required to make a small block live at moderate engine speeds obviously - Randy

388
Maintenance / Re: Motor Shakes badly
« on: August 10, 2007, 09:19:46 PM »
Thanks John. I have talked to a few guys here and it seems that the concensus is that i put the 396 flywheel on. I will pull it off and get a 454 flywheel. Also I will look into the pulley also.

Thanks for your input I really appreicate it.

Sucks cause i got everything bolted up nice to. Is it a tough job to remove and replace the flywheel in the car or would it be easier to pull the motor AGAIN...LOL

Does the balancer appear to have an actual wobble for part of its rotation or is it just always that that close to the water pump that it rubs slightly?
If it actually has a wobble could the crank snout have hit anything in transit anywhere (machine shop etc) to bend it and that is causing the balancer to wobble? If other things check out keep it in mind.
Probably the balancer and /or flywheel as others have mentioned but the bent snout came to mind because a friend bent his while trying to get his motor in and didn't notice it and it sounded similar to the way his ran afterwards... Randy
 

389
Originality / Re: California license letter sequence
« on: August 09, 2007, 03:00:50 AM »
Thanks Gary.
I know the plates are not allowed currently, but I am hoping that will change someday and I want to have a set that I can switch to when it does.

My brother bought his 69 SS while he was in the Army in Vietnam. His begins with "Z". I think he picked the car up in San Francisco upon his return in about June of 69.

 I have a set with 2 tags - upper left stickered in 1968 and top right last tagged in 1969. They begin with "I". How can the original date of issue be determined from the letter sequence?
 I was under the impression that these black and yellow plates were fairly valued as they could be reregistered these days if they were in presented in decent condition.
 Seems to me I read a few threads on the Yenko board in the past 6-12 months that lead me to believe that if the correct hoops were jumped through this was indeed possible at that time.
 Did something change recently to reverse the policy as the posters at that time advised that they had apparently managed to do this... Or were they just blowing smoke?  Thanks - Randy

390
Originality / Re: 68 Z ground wire
« on: August 09, 2007, 02:44:41 AM »
This particular water pump bolt is also a stud, like the alt. bracket stud, except the wire connection is 5/16" diameter with a star ground washer.
The wire wouldn't go under the water pump bolt, as the engine was already assembled when the wire was attached.

Yep - my mistake as I realized after finally finding my AIM copy tonight page 152 /UPC12/ A5.
I exchanged many of my engine fasteners for stainless ones for a little more bling quite a while back and now obviously have a nice bright bolt holding on the ground wire where a stud, lock washer, and nut should be (left upper- most water pump fastener position) and would have originally been used. Actually the AIM shows 3 of the 4 water pump fasteners to be studs - 2 left side - one top right!
... Sorry about that - Randy

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