Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - m22mike

Pages: 1 ... 15 16 [17] 18 19 20
241
Originality / COPO 9737
« on: August 02, 2007, 02:27:07 AM »
In the latest issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines, there is a artical on a Fathom Green 69 Camaro SS L78 car. In the artical it states  the car is equiped with the sports car conversion package. Never heard of this on a non COPO 427 car.
 Could the COPO 9737 package be ordered on a SS car ?  :o

                          Mike

242
General Discussion / Re: Camaro Restoration web site.
« on: June 02, 2007, 10:48:01 PM »
I have had this guy's site bookmarked for more than a year, you can spend hours looking at the pictures of his work. really cool stuff.
                         Mike

243
Restoration / Re: Painting advice
« on: May 29, 2007, 02:51:29 AM »
Yes, use a single stage paint to do the stripes after the base color coats are done.

JM
Jerry is right on the mark here. I have done a Z28 and SS Camaro's and Chevelle's stripes by single staging them right on top of the clear. Sand the clear with 1000, use good 3m striping tape. After the stripes are painted, sand the edges at 45 degrees in both directions to break the sharp tape edge, and do not get crazy with this or they become to smooth. The end result is you can feel the edge, and no way will it hold wax or polish.
 Some of my non painter know it all buddies will then try and say, " well Single Stage won't be as shiney as the clear". Bull ! most of the high end Pebble Beach cars are done in Glasurit SS, most of them are non metalic.
                                                                                       Mike

244
I asked this ? over at Yenko.net awhile back, here is the link. I have not tried to hard to find any. I think the old lacquer additive may not be aviallable ??
                      Mike

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB10&Number=255750&Searchpage=1&Main=255750&Words=+m22mike&topic=&Search=true#Post255750

245
Restoration / Re: latex door seal: Heartbeat city same as OER brand?
« on: April 27, 2007, 08:36:31 PM »
I dont know about HBC, but Metro is by far the best door seals.  Just my opinion though.

I have had good luck using Metro door seals also, I like them over Soft seal. And yes they are still to stiff compared to GM.
Jerry is 100% correct, why is all this repop crap always a little off.

246
Restoration / Re: Rear bumper bracket rivets
« on: April 09, 2007, 11:55:14 PM »
i have used them and they worked fine. i just put a dolly under the head of the rivet and used a large punch and hammer to crush the rivet. did it on the floor of my garage with the bumper very well protected.

Did about the same thing, worked fine. I groud an old punch into a extra large center punch. Important to hold it square, get a helper. A good chance for you and the little women to spend some quality time together !
                                                                                                                           Mike

247
Restoration / Re: fuel tank quality
« on: March 24, 2007, 03:01:01 AM »
Another vote for the Canuck tank.

248
Maintenance / Re: 1969 Camaro brake metering valve
« on: March 20, 2007, 08:36:30 PM »
Here is yet another shot of the guts, this one was just disassembled and I was carfull to lay out the parts in order.
Wallace, a question about the kit from Heartbeat. What all is in the kit? Does it include the small cup seal that seals the shaft at the back of the valve ?
                            Thanks Mike


249
General Discussion / Re: Gas Pedal Spring
« on: March 19, 2007, 12:51:02 PM »
Here is one I just took off a 69 Nova. You will have to look close fo the spring. In the photo the spring is hooked behind the pedel rod.
                                      Mike


250
Restoration / Re: 69 parking light restoration
« on: March 19, 2007, 02:40:24 AM »
Yes they can be replated, and you do not have to remove the wire leed. The plating is a cold process and it will not harm rubber, plastic etc.
Had mine done here in Akron at Beringer Plating in cad. Way better plating than zink IMO. I mask off the copper ferrel with a liquid rubber mask so they would not get plated.

http://www.beringerplatinginc.com/






251
General Discussion / Re: Gardner transverse muffler system
« on: March 18, 2007, 01:47:19 PM »
I have installed two 69 Camaro Gardner muffler systems, Ditto what Jerry said...... the BEST, sounds good too.
                                                                                      Mike

252
General Discussion / Re: Two Black 1969 Z28s!
« on: March 10, 2007, 10:58:12 PM »
Black was the 3rd least used color out of 18, not including special paint. It's in here.
http://www.camaros.org/exterior.shtml#CorvetteColors

253
Restoration / Re: Undercoating in wheelwells
« on: March 08, 2007, 02:27:51 AM »
Is there a product that duplicates the undercoating the factory applied to the wheelwells?

Not to my knowledge, however 3M body shultz # 08864 when applied with a undercoating gun does a nice job and gives a close look to the original. You will need to give it several coats for proper build. One Qt. usually is not enough.

254
Restoration / Re: sanding initial epoxy primer Question??
« on: March 07, 2007, 01:15:37 PM »
I'm no bodyman, but from what I understand, you can block epoxy, but it is very difficult.  Some epoxy primers sand easier than others...and there are people out there that block epoxy, but is is a lot more work.
If I were you , I would direct these questions to:  www.autobodystore.com
Len has a great forum on there that is full of experienced bodyguys that are more than happy to answers questions such as yours.  I enjoy just going through the forum and reading...it is amazing what you will learn.  Hope this helps.
 

Gambitt

Good advce by Gambitt, I have learned alot at the autobody store message board, lots of pro's hang out there.
Here is what you will find out if you ask enough people about epoxy primer. First off it is the best choice for bare metal. Next read the tech sheet on your brand of primer, most epoxy's stay open for up to a week, and after they cure up they need to be scuffed up before adding more primer. If you recoat within the recoat window you do not need to sand, maybe just hit the spots that trapped any debris.
Epoxy is not ment to sand , and when it is green will really gum up your paper.
I think most pro's will agree, that after your epoxy coat, and within your recoat window, come right behind the epoxy coat with a few coats of 2K sanding primer and go from there blocking and spraying more 2k primer as needed. And as the last step before the color, seal with one slightly over reduced coat of epoxy primer or a dedicated sealer.
                Good luck Mike

255
General Discussion / Re: This look like a fake?
« on: February 20, 2007, 02:07:24 PM »
I too think it looks good.
                                Mike

Pages: 1 ... 15 16 [17] 18 19 20