Messages

361

Mild Modifications / Re: mixing and matching cranks

« on: May 11, 2006, 02:39:51 PM »

I hadn't considered where the 305 sat in all of this...strictly looked at old school bores and strokes (plus I have a good 350 crank and a good 307 block...thought it might make something).  Good suggestion...I'll look and see.

362

Mild Modifications / Re: mixing and matching cranks

« on: May 11, 2006, 01:43:00 PM »

I wouldn't think the rods would be a problem since they are the same for all small blocks of that era.  Pistons might prove more difficult...hadn't considered that...how do they handle stroker motors built around a 350 block?   I mean, they throw all kinds of non-350 cranks into 350 blocks...perhaps we are talking custom pistons on t hese apps.

363

Mild Modifications / mixing and matching cranks

« on: May 11, 2006, 04:24:00 AM »

OK, Say you have a 307 block  and a 350 crank (large journal)...can you drop that crank into t he 307 and get a 329 CID (if my calculaatins are correct) motor?  Are there problems I'm not seeing?  Isn't that the same as dropping  aa 400 crank into a 350 block and getting a stoker motor?  Or the same way the 302 was created (283 crank into 327 block)?

364

Decoding/Numbers / Muncie codes

« on: May 10, 2006, 10:36:48 PM »

Just picked up some Muncie parts, case extensions and cases.  One is a "660" case wiht teh following markings:

P9M23 which I decoded as Muncie, model year '69, assembly date December 23.

and
 CT8
42311 which I decode as Chevy Transmission (replacement part) model year '68, sequence numebr 42311.

any clue why the replacement code indicates for model year '68 and the assembly code indicates for model eyar '69?

365

Restoration / Re: re-stamping a block

« on: April 18, 2006, 03:37:21 AM »

Well I guess that we know where you come down on this issue. ;-)  And it would be safe to assume that you wouldn't do this if it were a Camaro, right?  that's not to come down on you as I am curious to see what other enthusiasts think about the various aspects of this issue

First, I would say that the "corvette world" has traditionally been one of the most picky and critical of all american collector car groups.  So it seemed that if they allow it then it would set something of a standard for the rest of the hobby.

Second, this isn't a case of  Ebay scum fabricating a COPO Camaro for fun and profit...the motor really did have the right stuff on it before...just not now (I myself went throught his with a numbers matching '70 LT-1, 4-speed Corvette a few years back.  the motor blew and it took a  lot to salvage it and when it came back the stamping was much lighter than before..almost unreadable...I was sick.  For an instant I condsidered the restamping but  I  - and several other sets of eyes - decided that it was legible enough as was)  So he is considering it for his own "pleasure"  and to protect his "investment" because realistically he won't keep the car forever.

So, if you have further thoughts I would still like to hear them.  and of course from others.

The Corvette world seems to have a different outlook then most in the Camaro word. Restamping may be acceptable to the Corvette community but in other circles it's frowned upon very seriously.

That's all I am going to say.

Rick H.

366

Restoration / re-stamping a block

« on: April 18, 2006, 12:48:31 AM »

OK, this doesn't involve a Camaro directly but it is subject on which I would like to pick your brains.

a friend acquired a '69 300HP/350CID AT Corvette.  it is very rough and has been in storage a long time (becasue teh previous owner beat on the poor thing).  It had the numbers matching, original engine in it.  One thing lead to another and it ended up being decked at the machine shop.  So now he is considering using one of these services that puts factory style broach marks on the block and then re-stamps that block.   As we understand it, the NCRS says this is OK and will not penalize the car.  We lve in SO-cal so there are at least two palces in LA that do this sort of thing. 

Would you do it?   

An additional problem is that the machine shop has a cautionary tale of a previuos customer who used a palce in LA to do the "broaching" and re-stamping  only to have the block come back with uneven surfaces taht had to be machined all over again.

So, if you would do it, who would you use?

367

Restoration / Re: Help trouble shooting a cowl induction system

« on: January 07, 2006, 12:12:47 AM »

A pink wire from the "Ign" cavity in the fuse block goes to one side of the switch, and a pink wire from the other side of the switch goes to the coil in the relay; the relay coil grounds through the case tab, where it's screwed to the firewall. When the switch is closed at WOT, that sends 12V to the relay coil, which closes the points in the relay. One side of the points has a tan wire to the fuse block (power), and the other side of the points has a tan wire that goes up to the solenoid in the hood, which is grounded through its attachment to the hood. When the relay points close at WOT, that sends 12V through the tan wire to the solenoid, which energizes it and opens the air valve. If you don't have a good clean ground where the solenoid is attached to the hood, it won't work. The reproduction throttle arm switch is junk - the GM switch works fine.

OK John, I am with you up to a point.  I have a pink wire running from the fuse block IGN to the switch and then from the switch to the relay.  I have a tan wire running from the fuse block ACC directly to the relay.  the relay has a three prongs.  the tan wire stands alone on the passenger side of the relay.  the pink wire is in a  two prong "T" shaped fitting and plugs into the driver's side prong while a black wire connects to the center prong (using the same "T" shaped plug) and leads to the solenoid. 
When the key is the run position the tan wire is always hot.  Mostly the black wire to the solenoid is hot (12V) but occiasionally the switch seems to interrupt the current (the occaisionally part is the bit that makes me think the switch is bad).  Does this configuration sound correct to you? 

I don't own any cars with cowl induction so have never had to mess with it.  This car was not originally equipped with the the cowl hood (as the firewall was not drilled for the wiring harness - instead it was fed through the clutch rod hole) but someone seems to have collected all of the parts (I don't know if the are correct or good parts) such as the flapper door, seal, throttle arm with fitting for the switch etc. 

From your discription it sounds as if I should not have three wires at the relay and that I should not have two sources of power there.  Any further light you can shed on this would be reatly appreciated.

368

Restoration / Re: Help trouble shooting a cowl induction system

« on: January 06, 2006, 02:36:25 PM »

Thanks Pace&Z2869 for responding. 

so I have the concept right then?  When depressed the switch should send 12V to the relay via the pink wire, then the relay should  send 12V to the solenoid via the black wire, and then the solenoid should activate.   If this is corrrect I have to ask, why the relay?

I believe the switch to be original but I am uncertain about the solenoid, I'll check the connection you outline. 

any other thoughts?  anyone?

369

Restoration / Help trouble shooting a cowl induction system

« on: January 06, 2006, 01:28:00 AM »

I am helping a friend in the final stages of finishing up his 69 Z.  I have never set up a cowl induction system before so am flying a little blind not know exactely what should be hot and when.  Here is what I have done so far:

1) I've tested the throttle switch off the car for resistance (on JohnZ's advice, thanks John) .  It had a near zero reading when not depresed and a very high reading when depressed so I installed it in the car.  

2) I have checked power power at the relay...I get a constant 12V at the tan wire.  The Pink wire varies with the position of the throttle switch  (I have manually depressed the plunger to be certain that it is fully depressed).  Should the pink be hot at 12V when the switch is open or depressed?

3) I seem to be getting a constant 12V, via the black wire from the relay, to the solenoid.  should his be?  Or should it only be hot  when the throttle switch is depressed?  

4) I tried to bypass the relay by jumping across the pink & black wires but I had no change.

Since I am getting inconsistant results from the throttle switch I suspect  that I have a bad  switch.  but since I don't know whehter the switch should send current or cut off currrent  I can't tell whether I have other problems.  My assumption is that the solemoind should not receive 12V until the switch is depressed   I suspect  that the repay may also be faulty .  And since the solenoid does not operate when 12V is applied I am also assuming it is faulty.  

Can someone lend me some input and expertise so that I don't go and buy a bunch of new components that I may not need?

thanks in advacne.

370

Originality / Re: Dealer installed vinyl roof

« on: January 04, 2006, 03:25:17 PM »

Fiveforty:
 I have no doubt it was done off site from the dealer...I wonder if therewas beter profit on dealer installed items such as this versus ordering equipped cars.  I suspect the dealer made out like a bandit on dealer installed items (just like current dealers)
KevinK:
The owner was helpful but lacked ready access to his documentation (he ran the car through his business so it is all filed by year rather than in a car file).  He did say he found the original sales receipt and would send it along.  We'll see.  and yes, you are not much help .

371

Originality / Dealer installed vinyl roof

« on: January 04, 2006, 06:29:26 AM »

Thanks to board member Dale Hubbard I just picked up a '69 307 car (AC, PS, PB-disc, TH-350, STD MG INT) from the original owner.  They told me that they had the dealer install the vinyl roof.  It looks just like a '68 vinyl roof (no body color reveal around the drip rail). 
First, anyone know how common place this practice was?  I know vinyl roofs were very popular back then but have no sense of how often a dealer would install rather than order from the factory.

Second,  I'd like opinions (I know, now I'v e asked for it).  When restoring the car should I replace the dealer installed top or omit it to match the original factory build?

372

General Discussion / Re: 3904391 or 3919840 rectangle closed port heads

« on: November 04, 2005, 06:45:29 PM »

That link didn't turn out clickable like I expected. What did I do wrong?

You didn't put the link between the bracketed HTML code,,,normally that would be invisible but now you can see it

373

General Discussion / Re: Small block dipstick details

« on: November 04, 2005, 03:04:41 AM »

Thanks Doug,
Just wanted to be certain before we "swedged" the tube into an irretrievable space.  Certainly less complicated than a Pontiac which has three pieces, curves and attaches to the windage tray.

374

General Discussion / Small block dipstick details

« on: November 04, 2005, 02:59:41 AM »

Hello all.  Help me out here.  My friend just got the small block back from the engine builder last week.  Today we started going over everything we need to pull together before installing.  The upper dipstick tube and stick are off the car as is the lower tube.  I've never had a block (other than a Pontiac) where the lower tube had been removed.

 Is the correct proceedure to insert the lower tube through the block (outside to inside, taping it down into the hole until it seats) or is there a better way?  The tube fits nicely until the flare reaches the machined surface of the block, and then it appears to be a very tight fit. 

Any insight appreciated.

Joe

375

General Discussion / Re: Members from old forum version please post here

« on: October 30, 2005, 03:29:39 AM »

Hello Doug, member of old forum as flowjoe...still the same. 
thanks