Topics

61

General Discussion / Seat belt question for KurtS

« on: September 20, 2006, 04:18:39 PM »

Hey Kurt,

I have a quesiotn about seat belt tags.  can one tell what interior color the seat belts are from the tags?  In particular these are from a 70 car...any help would be appreciated.

62

Originality / Muncie dating.

« on: September 18, 2006, 05:59:49 AM »

hello, I'd like to pick your brains.  a friend emailed me a picture of a  muncie he picked up with a 660 case & a 584 tail shaft.  The assmebly date stamp shows a P0P03...that would make it a 1970 model year correct?  but a 660 case should be a '69 model year application.  And the date seems odd with the P03..any thoughts?

63

General Discussion / '70 Camaro question for JohnZ

« on: June 12, 2006, 04:19:06 PM »

Hey john, I need to call upon your experience once again.  There is a car for sale on Ebay that came up in a discussion on the 2nd gen forum.  Here is the link.  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT  .  It has a VIN of L500001 and a build date of  02D which is theoretically  too late to have the 001 VIN.  So my questions are these:

1) If it were a pilot car would that explain the anomaly  of build date and VIN? 
2) If it were originally sold in Canada (which is where the car is now) would '70s era GM Canada have done final assembly as did GM Europe?  If so would that account for the anomaly?  Did '70s era GM Canada issue its own VIN?  (I figure you are rpetty well versed in GM Canada practices for the period )

Thanks for you input....no one I know is looking to buy the car...it just came up as a curiosity to which no one had an answer.

64

Mild Modifications / mixing and matching cranks

« on: May 11, 2006, 04:24:00 AM »

OK, Say you have a 307 block  and a 350 crank (large journal)...can you drop that crank into t he 307 and get a 329 CID (if my calculaatins are correct) motor?  Are there problems I'm not seeing?  Isn't that the same as dropping  aa 400 crank into a 350 block and getting a stoker motor?  Or the same way the 302 was created (283 crank into 327 block)?

65

Decoding/Numbers / Muncie codes

« on: May 10, 2006, 10:36:48 PM »

Just picked up some Muncie parts, case extensions and cases.  One is a "660" case wiht teh following markings:

P9M23 which I decoded as Muncie, model year '69, assembly date December 23.

and
 CT8
42311 which I decode as Chevy Transmission (replacement part) model year '68, sequence numebr 42311.

any clue why the replacement code indicates for model year '68 and the assembly code indicates for model eyar '69?

66

Restoration / re-stamping a block

« on: April 18, 2006, 12:48:31 AM »

OK, this doesn't involve a Camaro directly but it is subject on which I would like to pick your brains.

a friend acquired a '69 300HP/350CID AT Corvette.  it is very rough and has been in storage a long time (becasue teh previous owner beat on the poor thing).  It had the numbers matching, original engine in it.  One thing lead to another and it ended up being decked at the machine shop.  So now he is considering using one of these services that puts factory style broach marks on the block and then re-stamps that block.   As we understand it, the NCRS says this is OK and will not penalize the car.  We lve in SO-cal so there are at least two palces in LA that do this sort of thing. 

Would you do it?   

An additional problem is that the machine shop has a cautionary tale of a previuos customer who used a palce in LA to do the "broaching" and re-stamping  only to have the block come back with uneven surfaces taht had to be machined all over again.

So, if you would do it, who would you use?

67

Restoration / Help trouble shooting a cowl induction system

« on: January 06, 2006, 01:28:00 AM »

I am helping a friend in the final stages of finishing up his 69 Z.  I have never set up a cowl induction system before so am flying a little blind not know exactely what should be hot and when.  Here is what I have done so far:

1) I've tested the throttle switch off the car for resistance (on JohnZ's advice, thanks John) .  It had a near zero reading when not depresed and a very high reading when depressed so I installed it in the car.  

2) I have checked power power at the relay...I get a constant 12V at the tan wire.  The Pink wire varies with the position of the throttle switch  (I have manually depressed the plunger to be certain that it is fully depressed).  Should the pink be hot at 12V when the switch is open or depressed?

3) I seem to be getting a constant 12V, via the black wire from the relay, to the solenoid.  should his be?  Or should it only be hot  when the throttle switch is depressed?  

4) I tried to bypass the relay by jumping across the pink & black wires but I had no change.

Since I am getting inconsistant results from the throttle switch I suspect  that I have a bad  switch.  but since I don't know whehter the switch should send current or cut off currrent  I can't tell whether I have other problems.  My assumption is that the solemoind should not receive 12V until the switch is depressed   I suspect  that the repay may also be faulty .  And since the solenoid does not operate when 12V is applied I am also assuming it is faulty.  

Can someone lend me some input and expertise so that I don't go and buy a bunch of new components that I may not need?

thanks in advacne.

68

Originality / Dealer installed vinyl roof

« on: January 04, 2006, 06:29:26 AM »

Thanks to board member Dale Hubbard I just picked up a '69 307 car (AC, PS, PB-disc, TH-350, STD MG INT) from the original owner.  They told me that they had the dealer install the vinyl roof.  It looks just like a '68 vinyl roof (no body color reveal around the drip rail). 
First, anyone know how common place this practice was?  I know vinyl roofs were very popular back then but have no sense of how often a dealer would install rather than order from the factory.

Second,  I'd like opinions (I know, now I'v e asked for it).  When restoring the car should I replace the dealer installed top or omit it to match the original factory build?

69

General Discussion / Small block dipstick details

« on: November 04, 2005, 02:59:41 AM »

Hello all.  Help me out here.  My friend just got the small block back from the engine builder last week.  Today we started going over everything we need to pull together before installing.  The upper dipstick tube and stick are off the car as is the lower tube.  I've never had a block (other than a Pontiac) where the lower tube had been removed.

 Is the correct proceedure to insert the lower tube through the block (outside to inside, taping it down into the hole until it seats) or is there a better way?  The tube fits nicely until the flare reaches the machined surface of the block, and then it appears to be a very tight fit. 

Any insight appreciated.

Joe