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Research Topics & Reports / Re: Original 67-69 Camaro driveshafts - information requested about your car
« on: January 11, 2022, 08:58:09 PM »LoL
Agreed-Violet!
1968 LOS L35/TH400
Or buy what you have left over.
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LoL
Agreed-Violet!
1968 LOS L35/TH400
LoL
Agreed-Violet!
1968 LOS L35/TH400
This would be the best place to start. Especially for a 68 built in NOR.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=18398.msg167062#msg167062
Photos
I've gotta say you have some very valuable quarters.
I have original fenders and fender extensions that are not painted body color inside….just some overspray….if that helps
The Drive shaft really could have used a new welded tube to present a bare finish that would be NEW in appearance, I chose the cheaper route of Bomb can trickery. After the evapo rust attempt to de-rust the shaft, I needed to apply a epoxy primer then a sandable filler primer, top coated by spray can alum- silver, I simulated the tube seam weld by applying a coating of Stove Bright® High Temp Paint 6197 Moss Green metallic and then masking the Simulated Weld with 1/8” masking tape. I was able to clean up the welded ends with the ears and just cleared the ends to add detail as they were treated by the evapo rust and looked great. I top coated the shaft and ends with a spray bomb can semi gloss Clear to blend everything together. Then using testors model enamel paints I added the broadcast ID stripes (White-Orange) per the normative practice for my 'engine and trans' combination. My drive shaft had very “non Rusted" areas were the stripe paint was but very very little was found during evapo rusting. I bought quality Dana Spicer U joints and studied WEBER (Utah) automotive college on line prop shaft rebuilding videos and pressed out and in my own u joints and selective clips. I did not op for a shop overhaul and wonder how it will perform?
Driveshaft (PROP SHAFT) restoration: Doc existing stripes, Evapo Rust treatment, U joint removal, Prime, preserve, paint, stripe, Install New Ujoints.
DIY
Auto city glass, and they will date code all of your glass, if needed. just got mine back, (date coded), cost me $789.00 for 5 peices. my car is a convertible.
Are you happy with the quality of the glass? Fit, etc.
Jerry
IS your windshield post not large enough to scan with the match camera?
This would be the best place to start. Especially for a 68 built in NOR.https://www.camaros.net/threads/time-for-another-68-z-28-to-be-restored.182584/
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=18398.msg167062#msg167062
I think Darrell meant here.
That's a Super Meticulous build!!! I'm going to build it as a "Day 2" build, (get it close, so the next owner) can Try to finish it like Chick"s car. (If possible)! but want to get major parts as correct as possible. It has all orginal drivetrain, drive shaft. booster, master cylinder, with valves, 4 piston calipers, seats, console.