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Messages - sabino56

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46
Restoration / 68 gas tank basic rehab questions
« on: August 08, 2019, 08:55:33 PM »
68 327 basic camaro, hasn't run in about 15 years but was overhauled, running well just a few years prior. I'm starting to do basic restoration to make it drivable, nice looking.

I'm just wanting, at moment, to get it running to make it easier to move around in the garage to work.
I was unable to get gas to fuel pump so I dropped tank, pulled out sender. Fuel line in tank was clogged with what I assume is residue of whatever gas was in tank when I last drove it slowly evaporating over the years.  Tank looks really good inside for as long as it's been sitting. I'm in Tucson, so it's been in a dry environment - so very little to no rust inside. Mostly appears to be varnish like deposits from what I assume is the gas evaporation.

It has a 3/8" sender/fuel line.  I'm unable to find a 3/8" fuel tank screen/filter.  My normal sources Classic only has 5/16", RockAuto has both but both not in stock., Heartbeatcamaro just has one that says it fits everything?.   Any suggestions on source for 3/8" would be appreciated.

Advice on what would be good for inside of tank would be appreciated.  I was thinking I should try something to dissolve some of the varnish but then started wondering if best is to just leave it alone and let it slowly dissolve over time with gas in tank?  Just rinse & blow out - go for now?

Thanks
Ed


47
Decoding/Numbers / Cowl tags field alignment
« on: August 07, 2019, 02:48:29 PM »
Hi,
I’ve been reading threads and looking at pics of cowl tags and curious why the alignment of fields vary. For example, the example 69 tag in the CRG decode page shows the paint code aligned with 5th place of the body code above and x code aligned with it.  I’ve seen tags judged authentic in threads with paint code shifted left, sometimes the x code not aligned with paint code. 
Is it just that it was a manual thing and whoever was doing it just had to get the info in the right area, no specs on specific placement?
Thanks!

Ed

48
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag
« on: August 05, 2019, 02:19:32 PM »
Oops, what I thought was the error evaporated when I reread the information on this site. I’ve been sent back a grade and back in beginners class, still trying to figure it out.  Sorry. 

49
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag
« on: August 04, 2019, 04:48:37 PM »
I’m like blues, learning and think I see the mistake on the eBay cowl tag but confused by comment it’s marked as X44? Cowl tag is marked with X22D80.   
Googled the vin - car is listed for sale on a couple other sites with same pics except cowl tag pic omitted so it would seem seller is aware.

50
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Protectoplate options question
« on: August 02, 2019, 01:02:30 AM »
Well, it's a little more confusing for me now.
I looked thru the protection plan booklet. There was no indication it had ever been used, no writing on pages or stamps for 12, 24 month reports, etc. except for the last page facing the protecto-plate.  There was a imprint of the original protector-plate, I assume. It has the bow tie in last position on the C line. No owner's name or address. It only shows the radio option also.
The car has factory air-conditioning as far as I can tell.

51
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Protectoplate options question
« on: August 01, 2019, 02:15:45 PM »
Thanks! Interesting. 

52
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Protectoplate options question
« on: July 31, 2019, 03:20:51 AM »
Thanks for responses.
a newbie question - what is the "zone"?

My console has a clock but I don't have tach or oil/amp gages - just idiot lights for oil/amp in dash.  I believe the console option is D55 but I don't see it on the POP definition page so I assumed the clock was standard in the "standard console" and it wasn't  a listed option on the protectoplate.  Is this correct or ?

53
Decoding/Numbers / Protectoplate options question
« on: July 29, 2019, 03:06:55 PM »
Hi,
I have a 68 327 base model coupe.  The L37 210hp, 2bbl, 3 spd manual. It's all original.
I bought it from the first owner in high school - 1975. I mowed his yard for years and when he was selling it - I got it and have had it ever since.
I hadn't looked in the folder for this car for 20-30 years but got in the other day.
I have the owner's manual, protector-plate, new vehicle inspection checklist, packet/holder.  Also a bunch of old service rcpts and an Ancient Age bourbon fishing guide...

It has factory air and a center console with a clock. The protectoplate only lists the radio as an option. I'm curious why.
The original owners name is embossed in plate, not something stuck on as described in the info here so I assume the dealer made the whole plate?
If so, is it common all the options are not listed on the protectoplate?
Just found the site and was reading about all the numbers, decode and found it very interesting.
Thanks
Ed

54
Restoration / Re: Opinions on restoration - 68 327 base model
« on: July 28, 2019, 12:24:05 AM »
Thanks, I appreciate the reply.  You reinforced what I had suspected from the little bit of looking into this I’ve done. It’s just going to be what I enjoy doing and what in the car makes me feel good to drive it - which probably won’t too much. I like things to run well and work but have never aspired to the quality I’ve seen at shows. I can handle any of the mechanical but little experience with paint & body. I like the suggestion of looking for an enthusiast instead of professional body help. 
Thanks again.

55
Restoration / Opinions on restoration - 68 327 base model
« on: July 27, 2019, 05:50:20 PM »
Hi,
I have a 68 327 base model coupe.  The L37 210hp, 2bbl, 3 spd manual. It's all original.
I bought it from the first owner in high school - 1975. I mowed his yard for years and when he was selling it - I got it and have had it ever since.
I have the owner's manual, protector-plate, new vehicle inspection checklist, and packet/holder. It was bought from dealer in Ft. Worth, I bought it in Houston, and it's been there and in Tucson,AZ ever since - so no rust to speak of except around windows.  So, nothing special in terms of rare or options but nice in terms of originality.
About 15 years ago, my son rear ended somebody and punched in the grill, kinked the hood & fender. I bought replacement hood & fenders from various people in the area and was going to restore it - but life got in the way and it's sat untouched. 
So now I want to get it back on the road. 
Originally, I thought since I already have fenders off I'd separate the subframe, replace bushings (nothing wrong with them except old and I assumed they've compressed), cleanup & paint engine bay.  Now, I'm not so sure - wondering if better to just get it running well, leave everything in engine bay as is and fix/repaint exterior.
I'm interested in opinions of what to do and would appreciate your advice.

A few other items which may play into plan.
Engine is fine, I rebuilt it in late 70s after I destroyed a cam as a kid. Runs well and is clean.  It probably could do with reseating the valves with all the unleaded gas but no noticeable issues in performance. Last I checked compression it was OK. I'll do that again when I get it running again to confirm.

It has a vinyl top. replaced once - there is the rust under the vinyl around rear windows which will need to be fixed.

When I bought car, he told me that he had been hit in rear qtr, drivers side.  It was visually fine at time.  I repainted car in late 70s.  Over the years in Tucson heat, I've noticed the paint in that area cracking so I assume there is a lot of bondo there. I was going to remove the paint and try to get a better look at that before painting. Thoughts/advice on how to approach/address this also appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Ed

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