Messages

31

Restoration / Re: Recommendation for rubber subframe and core support bushings

« on: September 16, 2019, 02:11:25 PM »

Thanks for replies.  I checked the GM restoration parts on CHQ and they look nice.  I’ll try them. I bought OER core support bushings years ago and the OD of the rubber was much smaller on the top rubber and the bolts looked like bolts you could buy at ACE hardware. So I just replaced the one side that was perished. I want to do all the bushings now as I’m doing some front end work. I don’t know if they are the same now, of course, but since it’s not something I want to do again I’d like to try something better.
Thanks for help
Ed

32

Restoration / Re: Recommendation for rubber subframe and core support bushings

« on: September 15, 2019, 04:14:18 AM »

Thanks for responses. Yeah, I’m just planning on cruising around so i want to use rubber.  As you said, after I’m gone if my son wants to change them - he can!
I’m sorry I was confusing in my question. I was curious if anyone has recent experience with rubber brands - good or bad. 
I saw “goodmark” on rockauto but not sure what they are and rep. It doesn’t actually say what material they are which seems kind of lame.  I got OER for a core support years ago and thought them kind of cheap looking but perhaps that is just they way they are. I’ve never seen new or NOS bushings. I looked on Moog but they appear to just have suspension parts.  So all I’ve found are the goodmark and OER so far.

33

Restoration / Recommendation for rubber subframe and core support bushings

« on: September 14, 2019, 03:45:29 PM »

68 base coupe. 
I’ve read the many threads on rubber vs poly vs solid bushings.  I want to replace with rubber but having trouble finding source which looks ok. I’m not looking for perfect originality- just OEM looking type bushings. I’d appreciate any experience & advice on sources.
Thanks
Ed

34

Maintenance / Re: 68 master cylinder rebuild - sanity check on options

« on: September 04, 2019, 02:06:11 PM »

Thanks for the advice and comments. Thought I don’t think I’ll pop for that CT coded MC for this car! wow.

I’m leaning towards having White Post resleeve the one I have if I don’t find a reasonable BS coded MC in short time. So far, what I have looks like a better core than what I’ve found and this is not going to be a car I take to have judged - just putting it together to have fun.
Thanks again
Ed

35

Maintenance / 68 master cylinder rebuild - sanity check on options

« on: September 03, 2019, 02:26:40 PM »

I working to repair brakes on 68 coupe - manual drum all around.
I've read the many, many posts on this, inability to get secondary piston, need to ensure I have RPVs, etc. and just asking for sanity check on options.

I have a 5452310 MC on the car but it's not the right application - an "AB" stamped instead of "BS" and it does not have the RPVs.
I can get the secondary piston from a reman but even if the reman has RPVs I'll need new seats to get them out and it seems seats only come with rebuild kits (minus the secondary piston).  So seems I'd have to buy the rebuild kit (can't find source for Raybestos MK472 anymore - RockAuto doesn't carry it. But I can get it from Napa)  + take the secondary from a reman.  If anyone has recent experience on better sources - I'd appreciate it.

For new MC
I'm not trying to get perfect date coded car restored but I'd like it to look right. I can't stand the new MCs with stupid bold on top and won't put it on my car. I've looked around and Heartbeat City has something which looks reasonable. ClassicIndustries has something which looks like a casting for bleeders but without bleeders so I don't like that one.  If anyone has recent experience on source for reasonable looking manual drum I'd appreciate that too.

I could resleeve - I checked Apple and White Post which have good reviews.  Since the MC I have isn't really correct/original to car anyway, not sure I want to spend the money to preserve it.

Thanks!
Ed

36

Decoding/Numbers / Re: AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder

« on: September 02, 2019, 04:44:28 PM »

Looking closer there is another digit - at the end.  2818
Reading it sounds like the year can be before or after the julian date?  - so this would be 281 of 1968, I think.

37

Decoding/Numbers / Re: AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder

« on: September 02, 2019, 02:32:18 PM »

Thanks.
I took it apart yesterday.  It does not have the RPV / check valves. I bought the car in 74 so I must have replaced the MC at some point and forgot.

I read on another thread here where you said the 281 stamp would be the assembly date and the 275 was the casting date.  Is there anyway to know what year?
Ed

38

Decoding/Numbers / AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder

« on: September 01, 2019, 08:58:59 PM »

Hi,
I have a 68 base coupe with drums all around.  I pulled the master cylinder to rebuild. It's a 5452310 which I understand is the right MC for this car.
I read in the research that 68's with drums would be stamped BS with possibility of some with CT. Mine is stamped AB. I don't see it in table in the research.
It has a 275 which I think is Julian date for casting - Oct?  but I don't know how to tell what year.  It also has a faint 281 on the machined surface for the front brake line port. 
I've had the car since 74 and don't recall replacing the MC but can't be 100% sure.
What applications used "AB" stamped 5452310 MCs? 
Thanks for advice
Ed

39

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68 water pump original to engine?

« on: September 01, 2019, 12:52:21 AM »

Thanks.  I’m not thinking I’ll try to get everything date coded right on this car but I would like the right period parts though. I guess I’ll look into rebuilding this pump.

Btw - I meant to say my car should have been built in June of 68, not 69 - got off by a year.

Mostly I was curious as from 69 model year on they didn’t use this pump on new cars so I guess this means only that GM was making replacement 608 pumps at least thru 1971.

40

Decoding/Numbers / 68 water pump original to engine?

« on: August 31, 2019, 04:36:43 PM »

Hi,
I have a 68 base model 327. I've had it since 74 and at some point I put away a water pump with intention of rebuilding. I found it the other day and trying to figure out it if was original to car or a replacement.

The car body tag is 06A.  The VIN 8N44xxx. The engine stamp is V0506MA.  From reading here I understand this to mean the car was built in June of 69 and engine was assembled on May 6th in Flint.

The water pump casting is 3782608 which I understand is correct for the engine. I'm confused by the casting date code -  D291.  I believe the D29 means it was cast on April 29.  However, I expected a 9 instead of the 1.  I read they switched to the "tall" water pump in the 69 model year. So if the "1" means 1971 would this indicate that this is a GM replacement pump made in 1971?

also - just curious on what the "29" after the GM means.  There is also a "29" on the back side of the pump.

Thanks
Ed

41

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag?

« on: August 27, 2019, 04:00:18 PM »

I had never looked that carefully at them.  You are right they aren’t “normal” pop rivets.  Whatever sealant which may have been there originally is gone now.   Now it makes more sense why people may “gunk” up rivets when putting a tag on the firewall

I know it hasn’t been messed with as I bought the car from a nieghbor whose yard I mowed as a kid. He was first owner. I’ve owned it since 74.

42

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag?

« on: August 26, 2019, 04:57:33 PM »

Thanks!  I didn’t know that. Mine look like normal rivets but I’ll look closer next time to see there is anything sealing the center.  Interesting info, I appreciate it .

43

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag?

« on: August 25, 2019, 05:13:32 PM »

I don’t have enough experience to comment on tag itself but have a general question related to this one and several others posted as questionable.  The rivets. Why would the rivets ever be gunked up in normal aging? My 68 has original tag and rivets are a bit rusty but there’s nothing to gunk them up/ hide them.  If someone had to remove the tag to restore I’d assume documenting the removal / replacement wouldn’t kill value of originality and no need to “age” the rivets.  Are there “natural” aging processes that hide the rivets?

44

Research Topics & Reports / Re: Gas tank date codes

« on: August 21, 2019, 07:20:41 PM »

I have 68 base model L37.  06A    68 45.  Fits in the gap in table

45

Restoration / Re: 68 gas tank basic rehab questions

« on: August 09, 2019, 04:24:15 PM »

Thanks for responses!
I called HBC and he pulled one and measured it - it was 3/8" so I have that on the way,
I'll call Ramon today.
Ed