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Messages - sabino56

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Maintenance / Re: 68 master cylinder rebuild - sanity check on options
« on: September 04, 2019, 02:06:11 PM »
Thanks for the advice and comments. Thought I donít think Iíll pop for that CT coded MC for this car! wow.

Iím leaning towards having White Post resleeve the one I have if I donít find a reasonable BS coded MC in short time. So far, what I have looks like a better core than what Iíve found and this is not going to be a car I take to have judged - just putting it together to have fun.
Thanks again

Maintenance / 68 master cylinder rebuild - sanity check on options
« on: September 03, 2019, 02:26:40 PM »
I working to repair brakes on 68 coupe - manual drum all around.
I've read the many, many posts on this, inability to get secondary piston, need to ensure I have RPVs, etc. and just asking for sanity check on options.

I have a 5452310 MC on the car but it's not the right application - an "AB" stamped instead of "BS" and it does not have the RPVs.
I can get the secondary piston from a reman but even if the reman has RPVs I'll need new seats to get them out and it seems seats only come with rebuild kits (minus the secondary piston).  So seems I'd have to buy the rebuild kit (can't find source for Raybestos MK472 anymore - RockAuto doesn't carry it. But I can get it from Napa)  + take the secondary from a reman.  If anyone has recent experience on better sources - I'd appreciate it.

For new MC
I'm not trying to get perfect date coded car restored but I'd like it to look right. I can't stand the new MCs with stupid bold on top and won't put it on my car. I've looked around and Heartbeat City has something which looks reasonable. ClassicIndustries has something which looks like a casting for bleeders but without bleeders so I don't like that one.  If anyone has recent experience on source for reasonable looking manual drum I'd appreciate that too.

I could resleeve - I checked Apple and White Post which have good reviews.  Since the MC I have isn't really correct/original to car anyway, not sure I want to spend the money to preserve it.


Decoding/Numbers / Re: AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder
« on: September 02, 2019, 04:44:28 PM »
Looking closer there is another digit - at the end.  2818
Reading it sounds like the year can be before or after the julian date?  - so this would be 281 of 1968, I think.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder
« on: September 02, 2019, 02:32:18 PM »
I took it apart yesterday.  It does not have the RPV / check valves. I bought the car in 74 so I must have replaced the MC at some point and forgot.

I read on another thread here where you said the 281 stamp would be the assembly date and the 275 was the casting date.  Is there anyway to know what year?

Decoding/Numbers / AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder
« on: September 01, 2019, 08:58:59 PM »
I have a 68 base coupe with drums all around.  I pulled the master cylinder to rebuild. It's a 5452310 which I understand is the right MC for this car.
I read in the research that 68's with drums would be stamped BS with possibility of some with CT. Mine is stamped AB. I don't see it in table in the research.
It has a 275 which I think is Julian date for casting - Oct?  but I don't know how to tell what year.  It also has a faint 281 on the machined surface for the front brake line port. 
I've had the car since 74 and don't recall replacing the MC but can't be 100% sure.
What applications used "AB" stamped 5452310 MCs? 
Thanks for advice

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 68 water pump original to engine?
« on: September 01, 2019, 12:52:21 AM »
Thanks.  Iím not thinking Iíll try to get everything date coded right on this car but I would like the right period parts though. I guess Iíll look into rebuilding this pump.

Btw - I meant to say my car should have been built in June of 68, not 69 - got off by a year.

Mostly I was curious as from 69 model year on they didnít use this pump on new cars so I guess this means only that GM was making replacement 608 pumps at least thru 1971.

Decoding/Numbers / 68 water pump original to engine?
« on: August 31, 2019, 04:36:43 PM »
I have a 68 base model 327. I've had it since 74 and at some point I put away a water pump with intention of rebuilding. I found it the other day and trying to figure out it if was original to car or a replacement.

The car body tag is 06A.  The VIN 8N44xxx. The engine stamp is V0506MA.  From reading here I understand this to mean the car was built in June of 69 and engine was assembled on May 6th in Flint.

The water pump casting is 3782608 which I understand is correct for the engine. I'm confused by the casting date code -  D291.  I believe the D29 means it was cast on April 29.  However, I expected a 9 instead of the 1.  I read they switched to the "tall" water pump in the 69 model year. So if the "1" means 1971 would this indicate that this is a GM replacement pump made in 1971?

also - just curious on what the "29" after the GM means.  There is also a "29" on the back side of the pump.


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag?
« on: August 27, 2019, 04:00:18 PM »
I had never looked that carefully at them.  You are right they arenít ďnormalĒ pop rivets.  Whatever sealant which may have been there originally is gone now.   Now it makes more sense why people may ďgunkĒ up rivets when putting a tag on the firewall

I know it hasnít been messed with as I bought the car from a nieghbor whose yard I mowed as a kid. He was first owner. Iíve owned it since 74.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag?
« on: August 26, 2019, 04:57:33 PM »
Thanks!  I didnít know that. Mine look like normal rivets but Iíll look closer next time to see there is anything sealing the center.  Interesting info, I appreciate it .

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag?
« on: August 25, 2019, 05:13:32 PM »
I donít have enough experience to comment on tag itself but have a general question related to this one and several others posted as questionable.  The rivets. Why would the rivets ever be gunked up in normal aging? My 68 has original tag and rivets are a bit rusty but thereís nothing to gunk them up/ hide them.  If someone had to remove the tag to restore Iíd assume documenting the removal / replacement wouldnít kill value of originality and no need to ďageĒ the rivets.  Are there ďnaturalĒ aging processes that hide the rivets?

Research Topics & Reports / Re: Gas tank date codes
« on: August 21, 2019, 07:20:41 PM »
I have 68 base model L37.  06A    68 45.  Fits in the gap in table

Restoration / Re: 68 gas tank basic rehab questions
« on: August 09, 2019, 04:24:15 PM »
Thanks for responses!
I called HBC and he pulled one and measured it - it was 3/8" so I have that on the way,
I'll call Ramon today.

Restoration / 68 gas tank basic rehab questions
« on: August 08, 2019, 08:55:33 PM »
68 327 basic camaro, hasn't run in about 15 years but was overhauled, running well just a few years prior. I'm starting to do basic restoration to make it drivable, nice looking.

I'm just wanting, at moment, to get it running to make it easier to move around in the garage to work.
I was unable to get gas to fuel pump so I dropped tank, pulled out sender. Fuel line in tank was clogged with what I assume is residue of whatever gas was in tank when I last drove it slowly evaporating over the years.  Tank looks really good inside for as long as it's been sitting. I'm in Tucson, so it's been in a dry environment - so very little to no rust inside. Mostly appears to be varnish like deposits from what I assume is the gas evaporation.

It has a 3/8" sender/fuel line.  I'm unable to find a 3/8" fuel tank screen/filter.  My normal sources Classic only has 5/16", RockAuto has both but both not in stock., Heartbeatcamaro just has one that says it fits everything?.   Any suggestions on source for 3/8" would be appreciated.

Advice on what would be good for inside of tank would be appreciated.  I was thinking I should try something to dissolve some of the varnish but then started wondering if best is to just leave it alone and let it slowly dissolve over time with gas in tank?  Just rinse & blow out - go for now?


Decoding/Numbers / Cowl tags field alignment
« on: August 07, 2019, 02:48:29 PM »
Iíve been reading threads and looking at pics of cowl tags and curious why the alignment of fields vary. For example, the example 69 tag in the CRG decode page shows the paint code aligned with 5th place of the body code above and x code aligned with it.  Iíve seen tags judged authentic in threads with paint code shifted left, sometimes the x code not aligned with paint code. 
Is it just that it was a manual thing and whoever was doing it just had to get the info in the right area, no specs on specific placement?


Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro tag
« on: August 05, 2019, 02:19:32 PM »
Oops, what I thought was the error evaporated when I reread the information on this site. Iíve been sent back a grade and back in beginners class, still trying to figure it out.  Sorry. 

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