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General Discussion / 69 cowl tag
« on: October 13, 2018, 09:56:47 PM »
What does NBR mean on the trim tag? It seems to be where it should be LOS or NOR.
Thx.
Thx.
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Chris, I am away on vacation & can not get to my glove box cover, can you measure the diameter of the "CUP" holder recess to the nearest 1/32"?
JIM
Chris, I am away on vacation & can not get to my glove box cover, can you measure the diameter of the "CUP" holder recess to the nearest 1/32"?
JIM
Good for you, glad you found it. Now where is my carb and air cleaner? I bought the correct carb for my car and had it rebuilt by Daytona. It's SOMEWHERE in my shop still in the plastic bag from them. I found the box with the right hubcaps, the '63 SS caps. I am running out places to look and the rest of the engine is done,in the frame, painted and ready to fire.
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Sorry, you must look in every box and then it will be in he second to last box lol
Thanks for the info. I watched the videos in the links and understand the general principal of what he's doing.....finding values to be able to add shims over wear time to increase the usable life of the springs while maintaining his proper pressures. I guess I'm wondering if I have a virgin head and buy a cam/lifter/ spring set. Do I still need to do this? I bought a comp cams complete cam kit ?
Not a pro here, just trying to help.
Darrell posted some good links. Those guys are racing and do a lot of tear down, check and reassemble but maybe you will just build it once and drive? Those guys will add shims as the spring looses pressure over time until you cant add more shims. At that point, they replace a spring. Tear downs and checks happen pretty regularly for those guys.
I do not do that. Maybe pay attention to what they are doing, and just do it one time to set up your heads.
The spring requirements are set by the cam supplier. The required seat pressure and spring rate are what you need to keep in mind. The "spring rate" is how stiff it is as it compresses. The spring will provide a stiffness described as "pounds of force per inch of deflection". How stiff is the spring? Just math.... (Open pressure-seat pressure)/(installed height-open height) = Spring rate....expressed as "pounds of pressure/inch of deflection". "Open pressure" comes from the "open height" spring specs, not the actual cam you are using so don't get confused. Springs can work on more than one cam so the spring spec needs to be generic.
Installed height gives you "seat pressure". Full actual cam lift gives you "nose pressure". Need to have enough pressure to control the valve train but not so much that it wears or damages components. Your valve train cost and complexity will increase as spring rate goes up.
Add shims to provide the required seat pressure on a spring that meets the spring rate required but make sure you have at least .030" available additional spring travel available before you go into full spring bind zero space between the coils. Watch the actual installed nose pressure to determine if you need to upgrade the studs, rockers, seals, pushrods, guide plates, etc.
Learn it and use it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsjT1rZZ90M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2aWcSIE198
http://www.kenlowe.com.au/Documents/Docs%2099%20-%20Procedure%20for%20setting%20valve%20springs%20101022-2.pdf
http://www.kenlowe.com.au/Alpha-Index.htm
I think it was the other way around. The 4 was too close to the 1.You just might be right Jon ! Lol
Not surprised that one sold quickly!