Messages

1

Maintenance / Re: Engine stall

« on: June 14, 2022, 01:35:37 AM »

Engine stalling from operating conditions you describe does not sound unusual. Likely stall only occurs when the car is at rest or moving slowly. Many engines have a vacuum device that slows the carburetor returning to idle to prevent stalling. When the car is at driving speeds the transmission will keep the engine turning over and keep it from stalling.

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Maintenance / Re: Turn signal goes on and opposite brake light goes out !!!

« on: March 15, 2022, 08:37:08 PM »

Reads like you are having a problem with the traffic hazard circuit or switch. [4 way switch]  Reads like you have solved part of your problem with the new turn signal switch.

3

General Discussion / Re: Brake light problem

« on: October 13, 2021, 03:56:32 PM »

I believe you have a turn signal switch problem. However the power flow for the brake lights is from the fuse panel, brake light switch, turn signal switch to dark green and yellow wires that feed the bulbs in the rear tail lights. Brake lights work key on or off. The turn signal power comes from the ignition switch, Turn signals only work when the key is on. The turn signal switch reroutes the power to allow both turn signals and brake lights to use the same filament in the tail light bulbs. A faulty contact point in the turn signal switch would create the problem you describe.

4

Restoration / Re: Looking for clutch adjustment problem help

« on: September 10, 2021, 07:57:08 PM »

   Reduce the thickness of the clutch pedal stop bumper. That will give the clutch pedal more travel and give the clutch more release. When the clutch has some wear a new bumper can be installed. This solution was used often when these cars were current

5

General Discussion / Re: Third clutch is the charm

« on: October 18, 2020, 03:38:04 PM »

Did you replace the pilot bushing? Replacing the pilot bushing with a new properly lubricated one is an important part of the job when installing a new clutch. A seemingly good but dry pilot bushing can cause various noises that are often blamed on the clutch or the clutch release bearing. These noises usually occur as the clutch is engaged or disengaged. If the car is not modified and is driven normally I would recommend the LUK clutch. Putting grease or another lube in the old pilot bushing will not solve the problem. The bronze bushing is a porous metal and the lube is in the pores of the metal. The bushing will dry out with use and with time.

6

General Discussion / Re: Powerglide Installation Question

« on: October 02, 2020, 04:24:10 PM »

Was a reground crankshaft installed when the engine was rebuilt? The rear of the crankshaft on 1967 small block engines with manual transmission was machined differently than engines with automatic transmission. If the crankshaft has an old pilot bushing in it or has a bore that is correct to accept a pilot bushing the bore for the torque convertor may not be deep enough. In the automatic crankshaft the bore for the standard transmission pilot bushing is unfinished and is undersized for the OD of the pilot bushing. New GM replacement crankshafts have both bores finished correctly. I believe if the torque convertor centers in the crankshaft 3 washers of equal thickness can be used between the convertor and flex plate. Be sure there is there is rearward movement of the torque convertor from the washers into the front pump of at least 1/8 inch. Other problems I have seen are bent or dish shaped  flex plates.

7

Maintenance / Re: Left brake light/tail light issues

« on: July 22, 2020, 07:47:32 PM »

You have a bad ground at either the tail light socket or between the bulb base and the socket. Both filaments in the bulb have a common ground in the bulb base. If you have a bad ground the power flows from one filament to ground in the bulb base then from the common ground through the other filament and then to ground in the opposite circuit. The filament with most resistance will light up. If you have both the brake light and tail lights on the there is power to both filaments so neither filament will light as the is no ground after the bulb base. [or socket]

8

General Discussion / Re: New - Bryon's axle carrier article

« on: March 26, 2020, 02:49:15 PM »

I realize that many people like you and I have written adds that call the differential case the carrier. That is what has led to the confusion. I believe your report is a technical report and would be best with the technically correct NAMES of the parts. On removeable carrier drive axles [pot, pumpkin, etc.] such as the Chrysler 8 3/4 inch when someone calls looking for a carrier they are usually looking for one of three common carriers. I am referring to 1960's muscle cars. On 67-69 Camaro when a call is received looking for a carrier it might be for a carrier [converting from 10 bolt to 12 bolt] or a diff case needed for changing the ratio. Many questions will need to be asked to clarify what part is needed. That is the confusion.  Maybe I am just going stir crazy due to self isolating for two weeks.

9

General Discussion / Re: New - Bryon's axle carrier article

« on: March 25, 2020, 04:45:58 PM »

Bryon you have created a great report. I am sure all of us who read and use your report appreciate the amount of time and effort you have dedicated to its creation. The 67-69 Camaro parts catalogue and chassis shop manual NAME the part carrying the differential gears "Differential Case". I was hoping you would consider editing your report that calls this part the carrier to agree with the GM manuals. The incorrect use of the part name "carrier" has caused me much aggravation in my career. I am writing this to try and help dispel some of the confusion.

10

General Discussion / Re: New - Bryon's axle carrier article

« on: March 17, 2020, 07:25:50 PM »

The automotive industry terms for the two major drive axle components used in the 67-69 Camaro are:  "differential carrier" and "differential case". When ordering parts or diagnosing problems on the Camaro rear drive axle the "carrier and axle tube assembly" is usually stated as the "carrier". The component "differential case" is often abbreviated to "diff case". The incorrect use of these terms has caused much confusion when discussing many vehicles including 67-69 Camaro.

11

General Discussion / Re: New - Bryon's axle carrier article

« on: March 13, 2020, 04:10:04 PM »

Congratulations on a great report. Lots of good information for anyone trying to understand or work on a 67-69 Camaro rear drive axle. I do have a concern with the naming of the main components. It is my understanding that the housing you see when you look under the rear of car, that contains all the gears and bearings is called the "carrier'. The parts catalogue calls that housing "carrier and axle tube assembly. The housing inside that holds the differential gears is called the "differential case'. The differential case is available with limited slip [positraction] or conventional [open] components.

12

Originality / Re: Going back to a Powerglide. Help on parts I need! Bunch of questions.

« on: February 16, 2020, 08:51:42 PM »

From memory I will try to guide you to get your 67 Camaro with a consul and floor shift back to original. The shift lever and shaft that goes inside the transmission fits a 67 floor shift only. It has a second lever attached to that part that brings the shift rod hookup point above the center line of the lever and shaft assembly. The rod that connects the second lever to the floor shift fits 67 Camaro only. The bolt circle for the transmission to flywheel bolts for a Powerglide are different than a 700. Your flywheel may have both bolt circles. The flywheel cover for Powerglide is different than the 700. If you have a Powerglide filler tube you can modify a dipstick to set the fluid at the level of the pan gasket.  [engine hot and running]  You will need the throttle pressure linkage that hooks the inner transmission lever to the carb. The vacuum line that runs from the transmission vacuum modulator to the back of the intake manifold has a clip that is on a bellhousing bolt. That bolt also holds the throttle linkage cross shaft. The Powerglide mounting point is different than the 700. You may have to replace the crossmember. The neutral safety switch mounts on the shifter. The shifter parts you have look like they may be correct! The cooler lines run from the trans to the rad, no extra cooler. Best to purchase the cooler lines ready made if you want the correct bends. A couple of things to note. Powerglide torque convertors come in different diameters and stall speeds. Powerglides come in two different 1st gear ratios and different overall lengths.   Good Luck

13

Originality / Re: Going back to a Powerglide. Help on parts I need! Bunch of questions.

« on: February 12, 2020, 05:19:00 PM »

Does your car have a column shift or a factory floor shift. The two setups are very different.

14

Maintenance / Re: Clutch shudder - tuning wuestions

« on: August 20, 2019, 02:56:51 PM »

There has been no mention of the pilot bushing replacement. The pilot bushing is made of a material that is called "oilite bronze". The bronze is porous and contains a high percentage of oil. The oil will dry out over time and the bushing needs to be replaced when the clutch is replaced. A dry bushing even when not appearing to be worn can cause noise, [usually a screeching that sound like a bad release bearing] it can also cause an uneven clutch engagement that feels like a shudder. Engine and transmission mounts should be correct original type and not a type designed for racing. A new stock original clutch from a manufacturer like "Luk" is what I would recommend. The original type flywheel should be ground on a flywheel grinder that has the correct grit wheel to get the correct finish. There are many things to do during clutch replacement from cleaning the engine block to bell housing mating surface to the final clutch free play adjustment. If all steps of the installation are followed and a quality clutch is used you should end up with a smooth operating clutch.

15

Maintenance / Re: Tire pressure gage

« on: August 19, 2019, 05:01:12 PM »

I have had the same problem with tire gauges for years. Recently I purchased a new one, choosing one that was more expensive than several others. It reads exactly the same as the tire monitor in my pickup. It has "MILTON" made in the USA stamped on it. It is also easier to use than the other I have, all made in China.