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Messages - 70z28lt1

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Originality / Re: 69 Z28 carb fuel line bracket.
« on: January 23, 2018, 05:23:04 PM »
Right you are.  Didn't see that.

Originality / Re: 69 Z28 carb fuel line bracket.
« on: January 23, 2018, 03:12:27 PM »
Anybody here get it?

Went for 280.00

Originality / Re: 69 Z28 carb fuel line bracket.
« on: January 18, 2018, 08:28:57 PM »
Been watching for one of these on eBay for about a year.  They don't appear very often.
Even so, I bid to 50 and might go a bit higher, but not into 3 figures.  The repop is very good for an item like this and I already have one of those.  Maybe once my restore is farther along and I have a better handle on costs I can look harder at these kind of things, but I've got a long way to go.

Originality / Re: dating Side post battery cables
« on: November 13, 2017, 12:41:45 AM »
Not 100% positive in this case as I haven't seen the tool, but many molds like this that essentially overmold plastic over metal are "shuttle" style molds that have two "B" halves and one "A" half.  This way, operators can be loading the metal parts in place while the overmold operation occurs in the press.  This is much more efficient.  This may account for the letter designation.

Originality / Re: Wiper switch
« on: November 12, 2017, 09:54:25 PM »
Funny the seller hasn't changed the ad.

Originality / Re: 68 z28 gt alt bracket
« on: November 04, 2017, 02:55:12 PM »
The edges are different as they are flame cut. The originals are stamp cut out....Joe
That's a good point Joe but can be easily erased with some edge work. The stamp is probably the best key.
You can certainly "erase" them but it is very difficult to re-create the original stamped edge "break" look.  Basically, about 1/3 of the side of the edge should be shiny and the remaining 2/3's will inset from the edge very slightly and be rough.  Not sure of any of the repops on any part like this will go through the trouble of building a true stamping die to cut the blank.  If they were to go through that much effort, getting the font right would be a piece of cake.

General Discussion / Re: Recommendations for Painting Metal Dash
« on: September 12, 2017, 07:57:48 PM »
Just got a quote from my local jobber, Ohio Auto Color, for 119.70 plus tax for a pint of the PPG Duracryl 9317, so it is still available but as expected pricey.  A pint I think would be enough to do the dash and the inside heater box which also uses this color.

General Discussion / Re: Cross Ram 1968 RS Z28 at Mecum
« on: September 10, 2017, 06:42:03 PM »
I wish they would do this on eBay!.  Every part it seems no matter how mundane is now COPO, Yenko, ZL1, Z28 and so on. 

General Discussion / Re: Recommendations for Painting Metal Dash
« on: September 10, 2017, 03:27:42 PM »
I have researched this a bit and ran across this for the most exact match:

PPG DIA9317 Black Textured

DMA358----283.8 parts----Black
DX265-----121.6 parts-----Flattener
DMA364----81.1 parts------Texture
DMA375----20.3 parts------Blue

This is acrylic lacquer which is what the factor sprayed.

Figure about $100 for a pint, if you can find a store to sell it.

General Discussion / Re: Cross Ram 1968 RS Z28 at Mecum
« on: September 10, 2017, 03:20:05 PM »
Yeah, definitions are getting really blurry these days.  "Numbers matching" means that the numbers match to something, but maybe not anything.  "Born with Drivetrain" means it is a drivetrain that was born with something, but maybe not the car in question, "Real Deal" means the seller likes to play poker.  You get the point.  Phrases mean nothing anymore.  Especially with cars that have been traded like kids used to trade baseball cards.  Unless the car has been researched by a respected authority (Macneish?) AND you consult with that authority before the purchase or you are buying from an original owner with lots of docs (photo archive is nice from before these cars were all about the money) then caveat emptor.

General Discussion / Re: Palmetto Entrprises
« on: July 31, 2017, 01:26:39 AM »
Try this email:

Anthony Owens <>

I bought a bottle last November.  Let us know if it works.

Stuff does work great.

Might try here too:

although I have never tried that stuff.  I think the concentration varies from manufacture's.  The Palmetto stuff didn't need anywhere near a gallon.  i bought a quart and it made 5 gallons.

Originality / Re: Starter solenoid lever -- retaining pin, or bolt ??
« on: June 23, 2017, 11:12:31 PM »
1970 z28 4 speed starter 1108418 bolt with nut

Decoding/Numbers / Re: A Brutal Restamp
« on: May 22, 2017, 04:55:11 PM »
I like how its carefully worded.    "Stamped as 1111480 and dated as 9 A 9".  That's what it is stamped now true, but what was it ORIGINALLY stamped as?

General Discussion / Re: FYI CL X-Ram
« on: March 13, 2017, 07:54:31 PM »
Maybe from Eric Jackson @ Vintage Musclecar Parts.

Its his neck of the woods.

He would be a good one to go look at it.

Since most of this was born from the Trans Am racing series it may also be possible that the pit stop serviceability with a hood mounted (i.e. cowl induction) induction was better with hood setup as compared to the firewall plenum setup.  Opening the hood and then staring directly at the carb is faster than fussing with removing the air cleaner, plenum etc.  I believe the real Trans Am racers didn't use all of the cowl air cleaner setup.  Maybe just a baseplate that sealed to the hood. 
The best as I remember is the Corvette L88 hood where the air cleaner was in the hood.

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