Messages

1

Maintenance / Re: Something Around Locating Pin on Leaf Spring

« on: October 17, 2021, 02:23:22 AM »

Maybe I'm figuring out the answer to my own question.  I looked at the new rubber insulator pads that I have and see that one of each pair does not have a hole for this pin to go through it like I thought.  So, can someone please confirm that this pin is not part of the bracket like I assumed, but is welded onto the spring itself?  Thank you

2

Maintenance / Something Around Locating Pin on Leaf Spring

« on: October 16, 2021, 12:03:46 AM »

I took the monoleaf rearend out of my 68 RS and found what looks like a bead of metal around the locating pin on the leaf spring brackets on the axle tubes.  It is light grey in the picture and is on the bottom of the leaf spring keeping me from getting it out of the bracket.  It is fairly uniform around about 90% of the pin, but the last 10% it thins out to nothing on both springs.  On the left spring there are two drops of what looks like weld spatter (one is shown at 11 o'clock) on the spring.  I made a couple of passes over it with a file to make the bright area at 11 o'clock on the bead.  Neither the assembly manual or chassis repair manual say anything about putting something around the pin after the spring is in place.  Can anyone tell me what this is so I can figure out how to get the (broken) springs out of the brackets?  Thanks

3

Maintenance / Re: Removing Bolts from Leaf Spring Cup

« on: January 02, 2021, 09:53:40 PM »

Never mind!!  I've searched the Internet for this numerous times and never found what I was looking for.  As soon as I posted here, I searched again and found that, yes, the holes are big enough.

4

Maintenance / Removing Bolts from Leaf Spring Cup

« on: January 02, 2021, 09:37:40 PM »

I'm beginning the process of removing the rear suspension from my wife's 68 RS to clean it up and replace the 50 year old rubber parts.  As expected, the bolts in the leaf spring cups just spin so I'm going to have to either drill them out or grind off the heads.  I've never seen what is under the cup as far as the size of the holes where the j-clips are inserted.  Is the hole big enough to remove the old J-clips and remains of the bolts, especially if I grind off the bolt heads?

I'm open to any other suggestions as well.  Thanks!

5

Maintenance / Re: Upper Control Arm Bumper

« on: April 07, 2019, 09:10:13 PM »

I neglected to put in the bumper when I was rebuilding the front suspension on my wife's 68.  The front subframe was out of the car on jackstands when I realized my mistake.  I thought that maybe when I got the car back together the weight would compress the spring and there would be enough space to put it in, but it doesn't sound like it based on your original question.  Since I didn't want to wait anyway, I used my spring compressor to take the pressure off the upper control arm, lubed it up and popped it right in.

6

Restoration / Re: Subframe Removal

« on: April 22, 2016, 06:44:32 PM »

SUCCESS!!!! 



And you can see why I needed to do this. 



Check out this beauty that someone put in to patch the #3 body mount.  There is another one just like it on the other side.  I'm debating whether to do anything with those or just leave them.  There is definitely more metal in there now than there ever was.

7

Restoration / Re: Subframe Removal

« on: April 21, 2016, 03:09:31 AM »

I'm all about expanding people's vocabulary, so now that we have "doghouse" down, let's move on to "left three quarters doghouse" and "right three quarters doghouse"...       

8

Restoration / Re: Subframe Removal

« on: April 20, 2016, 01:15:22 PM »

FYI.. 'doghouse' is an older term for the complete front sheet metal assembly (fenders, hood, grill, etc - as an assembly)..   
[/quote]

"an older term"...Youch!!  But I guess I resemble that remark.     

Thanks to all for the input.

9

Restoration / Subframe Removal

« on: April 20, 2016, 01:58:58 AM »

I'm working to make a '68 RS driveable for my wife and as I dug deeper into the car, I found that the #2 body mount points in the subframe are mostly rotted out under the bushings.  The engine, trans  and radiator are out and I disconnected the steering at the rag joint so the steering box and power steering pump stays with the subframe.  I have not removed the doghouse from the car.  The plan is to put 2x4's between the rockers and subframe and use my lift to raise the body off the subframe.  The question that I have is how much do I need to support the doghouse when it is off the subframe?  I'd hate to kink the tops of the fenders, but on the other hand, I'd also rather not spend a lot of time building a support structure that isn't really necessary.

Thanks

10

General Discussion / Re: What Do You Want For Christmas?

« on: December 18, 2015, 07:39:40 PM »

Time, to work on my cars.

11

Restoration / Re: Upper Control Arm

« on: May 24, 2015, 12:55:20 AM »

Thank you Lynn but I think I have one on the way. I'll let you know either way how it works out.

12

Restoration / Re: Upper Control Arm

« on: May 10, 2015, 02:45:03 AM »

I just bought the car in December and, because of work, have spent exactly one afternoon working on it.  A friend and I pulled the brake drums and found that the right side brakes looked good, but the left drums both were a bear to get off and the top third of one shoe in each looked like it had been wet.  There was rust on the drum and the material on the shoe had broken down.  My buddy found the control arm problem.  I just went out and looked at the other control arms and they all seem pretty solid.  There is a lot of dirt sitting down in the valley in that part of the control arm so maybe that was the culprit.  All in all, I think it's a pretty solid car for its age, but I'm just getting back into cars after a 25 year layoff so what do I know?  :-)  The odometer only shows 12k+ miles, but who knows if that is original or not.  The car allegedly sat in a garage for the last eight years so I need to replace all the belts and hoses and go through the braking system before I let my wife take it out.  I'd like to get it done this summer, but at the rate of one afternoon every six months, it's going to be a while.

13

Restoration / Re: Upper Control Arm

« on: May 09, 2015, 06:42:45 PM »

I PM'd the guy over on the Supercars forum.  At least one person admitted to having PM'd him before me.  I'll let you know what happens.  Thanks for the tip.

14

Restoration / Re: Upper Control Arm

« on: May 09, 2015, 01:48:19 AM »

Sorry about the slow response, but I've been traveling for business.  This car is not a show car as you can tell from the picture below.  I just got it for my wife for Christmas and am beginning to make it roadworthy.  I don't have to have the rivets, but that's what it has now and, if I have to buy a new arm anyway, I'd like to keep it stock appearing.

The front edge of the arm where the metal turns up is about 2/3 gone from up near the frame down to about 3/4 of the way to the ball joint.  It was interesting in that it really looked like a 3 ply laminate where two of them separated (and rusted) from the other ply.  The two fell out when I started scraping them with a screw driver. 

15

Restoration / Upper Control Arm

« on: May 07, 2015, 03:28:47 AM »

I need to replace the right upper control arm on my wife's 68 RS.  Goodmark has one that has the ball joint riveted in which matches the current part.  All the other replacements that I've found have the ball joint bolted in.  I've seen some criticism of Goodmark body parts and am wondering if anyone has used their control arms.  If so, how was the quality and fit?