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Messages - z28z11

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Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro body tag?
« on: August 25, 2023, 06:23:20 PM »
I think beating on it with a ball pein hammer helped the aged appearance of the tag quite a bit - but I’m no expert.


General Discussion / Re: 1969 Camaro Z28 distributor 1111480
« on: August 22, 2023, 03:48:25 AM »

Why a lot of the 1969 Camaro Z28 distributors (1111480) seemed to get traded out with something else back in the day?

I swapped mine for a Mallory YL-482HP dual point in '73, mainly because I ran that distributor on my Bel Air for years before I sold the '57 and bought the Z in '73 (and replaced the Mallory on the '57 with the Delco dual point that was on it when I bought it). I only ever set the points twice on the Mallory in all the years of driving both cars - once when new, once when I set it up on the Z. Terrifically reliable piece of equipment, finally sold the Mallory last year after 53 years of ownership. -

Originality / Re: Endura Bumper Brackets
« on: August 22, 2023, 03:06:52 AM »
Try this thread from a few years back. Repop brackets have improved over the last several years, a lot closer than they used to be. Bumpers have improved, but still need a little extra effort to be closer to the OE profile, particularly the ends. Bracket pics are on page 2 -


General Discussion / Re: Mecum 69 Camaro
« on: August 22, 2023, 02:44:23 AM »
You know, it doesn’t mention any claims to high end originality, even down to the “date coded” 350. The balance of the car looks pretty good, with the exception of the missing or misplaced items that could easily be corrected. I’d consider it as a nice modified car, and agree with the misuse of “concours”. I don’t disparage Mecum by any stretch, I’d rather watch them than BJ any day of the week.

As always, my own opinion.


Man, I imagine only someone that tried that would know. Is the bolt pattern similar at all? Next question: why? If you have a crossram, why would you want to run 1x4 on that manifold? Why not just install a single 4bbl manifold that will work properly?

The manifold tops are very close, the largest difference being the Offenhauser bolts are 1/4", the Winters intake top is drilled for 5/16" bolts. I still have a couple of Offenhauser gaskets to check with, but unfortunately no Winters to match them up with (sold all of my Offenhausers, had two single four tops at one point in time). That would be the easiest way to check -


Originality / Re: 69 SS AIR CLEANER COVER
« on: February 27, 2023, 06:50:17 PM »
Correct - OE is decidedly different. Automatic cleaners are easy to find, if you’re lucky you can locate a good donor. Aircraft stripper works quickly, followed by beading if you have any scale. Rusty parts will require a lot more work in the plating process that might affect the final appearance in terms of heavier copper coat vs. an OE chrome finish (most plate shops offer “show” vs. “OE” chrome).
Good luck and let us know how you come out -


Originality / Re: 69 SS AIR CLEARNER COVER
« on: February 27, 2023, 05:08:16 PM »
I’m not trying to push Classic’s offering, but take a look at KW461 from the current catalog - I severely doubt you could source an OE painted lid and chrome it for this price. Inexpensive - and appears correct. Just a suggestion -


General Discussion / Re: 1969 Camaro L-48 SS air cleaner and chrome lid
« on: February 06, 2023, 01:40:01 AM »
Vince - do you need a manual or automatic cleaner ? Send me a PM.


Restoration / Re: Muncie shifter on the saginaw
« on: January 19, 2023, 06:45:23 PM »
Hey DW,

Think I know what Phillip is asking. Look at the collar (9) and the ball bearings (15). I vaguely remember a spring in the assembly, but I don’t have one to look at. If the pic is too large from my phone, I’ll text it.


General Discussion / Re: 1968 Radiator Tag
« on: January 19, 2023, 06:18:00 AM »
Make sure it looks like this one. Sure looks like an "H" to me !

Fortunately one less thing I have to look for. How it stayed on the car (the whole radiator) all these years before my ownership is a wonder -


Whoever wrote the "did not appear on original coils" must not have looked at very many, or at a still-legible end frame. I assure you it is there, unfortunately you have to squint to see mine underneath 55 year old crud (I very carefully did NOT try to clean it off due to the apparent fragility of the ink or paint). If you inspect it under magnification, the lettering is identical to service parts, for a very good reason - same supplier did all of them. I researched and contacted the OEM many years ago, verified who they were and what they supplied (this was laborious, before the internet and Google heyday, when you had to read things and make phone calls). Rochester Division of A/C (Rochester NY) stamped the coil date and the part number likely when they received the valve assembly from the supplier before valve installation and shipping. From all of my research, they were batch built, as there seems to be a small date sample from the originals I've ever researched. I have two NOS "service" coils, and at least one other original (other than this one) that all have identical part numbers and info.

If you remove the printing as specified by whoever suggested it, you will be incorrect in my honest estimation. As usual, just my opinion - 


P.S. I should have added you should leave the end frame part number, and remove the reproduction GM number from the side and restamp/ink it. The GM number they applied looks far worse that than the OEM part number on the end of the coil frame in my view.

BTW, the ‘69 Legends Judge Manual does not mention the difference noted above between the ‘69 front and rear window crank handles, despite going into tons of detail about interiors. JM help draft the judge manual but the detail on the window crank handles was not mentioned yet it was noted in a cert report.  The Legends Judge Manual is well done and a great resource, but I am already looking forward to the next edition…lol!
BTW, the ‘69 Legends Judge Manual does not mention the difference noted above between the ‘69 front and rear window crank handles, despite going into tons of detail about interiors. JM help draft the judge manual but the detail on the window crank handles was not mentioned yet it was noted in a cert report.  The Legends Judge Manual is well done and a great resource, but I am already looking forward to the next edition…lol!

Original crank handles are really flat to the panels, more evident on the rear cranks. I surmise it changed or was superseded early on. Later service and maybe mid production cranks have more ‘arch’ in my view. I would welcome opinions -



I'll check it out again but what restoration flaw is in Lloyd's wiper motor?


 Involves the printing on the solenoid coil end frame. Reproductions are not the same as the original manufacturer -

Your problem with NOS door handles (and other NOS parts) could (likely) stem from design/mold changes over the life of the service parts, which we have all seen from time to time. I bought as many NOS parts as I could for my X77 between 1978 or so until recent years, some of which are from older toolings that were continually rebuilt (like fan shroud molds - some of the later ones show as many as 4-5 mold repair events stamped in the part). I've got two NOS front spoilers that I bought from GM at the same time, could be from two different vendors but under the same part number, look slightly different down to a different part number stamping and font, and different edge finishing. Even Lloyd's very nice wiper motor restoration has at least one very visible reproduction flaw that stands out to an inspector that knows what to look for on the RS wiper motors (and might not be noticed by by a less familiar eye). Judging, to me, is still subjective no matter what the manual states - it still has to be interpreted.

Just my opinion -

General Discussion / Re: 1968 Radiator Tag
« on: January 16, 2023, 10:01:43 PM »
In reviewing the CRG report on radiators, it shows the 1968 Z28 as having a broadcast code of UH and a tank codes as IH and OD.  All the repo tags seem to have a IM tank code rather than IH tank code.  Does anyone know where the correct ID tag can be purchased ?

Seems to be the only one out there. I thought there was a correct original available through Parts Place, but they apparently start with the '9 tag -

Keep on looking - used may be your best hope at this point.


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