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Messages - DAVEN1256

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1
Restoration / Re: Door panel water shield questions ???
« on: October 31, 2017, 02:11:25 AM »
Thanks for all the replies.

The repros I bought are going back tomorrow and I am just going to go ahead and make my own. I already made templates today using my originals as guides. My originals are pretty tattered but I believe I got them laid out to their original shape. I'll test fit the templates and tweak them if I have to.

I looked at the paper ones from Camaro Central on their website as Scott suggested. I noticed there was a review on them at the bottom of the page. The reviewer said they were nice but made of clear plastic and not as they were shown in the picture....I really don't care what they are made of as long as they fit and do the job they are supposed to. I'll probably look for some heavy plastic or mylar.

Thanks for the explanation for the cut out on the one side only. I never thought of a remote control mirror.

Dave

2
Restoration / Re: Door panel water shield questions ???
« on: October 29, 2017, 12:43:55 AM »
Thinking that most of the repros will probably be like these that I have, making my own has already crossed my mind. I know it wouldn't be hard......I was already doing a little searching on the Internet for mylar sheets.

Scott, a couple of questions......do you know why the original door shields are different on that top, front corner?.....and if I made my own shields, should I try to find a paper similar to the originals (I'd have no idea where to find that) or go with mylar? For what it is worth, the repro mylar ones that I have are .004 inches thick.

Thanks.......Dave

3
Restoration / Re: Door panel water shield questions ???
« on: October 28, 2017, 07:25:24 PM »
I have no idea why my pictures came out so big. I am hosting them on the TC forum now that you can't use Photobucket on the forums anymore....I posted the same topic on TC and the photos came out the right size.

4
Restoration / Door panel water shield questions ???
« on: October 28, 2017, 06:35:07 PM »
I purchased a set of door and 1/4 window water shields (4 pieces) from Heartbeat City for my '68 which has the deluxe interior. I bought the Mylar ones thinking that they would be better than the paper ones (they cost more.) The manufacturer's name is REM. REM's label shows them to be for a '69. Heartbeat's label says for a '68 or '69.

There are differences between my originals and these repros. I want to go over the differences and see if someone can explain them.....and if these are the best I can expect to find or if there are better ones out there.

The width of the repro door shields (side edge to side edge) are 3/4 inch narrower than the originals. They are not wide enough to cover both of the indented channels on each side of the inner door structure where the bead of caulking (sealant) goes......this is reason enough by itself to return them.

On my original door shields, the top, front corners are shaped differently. The driver's side has a cut out at that corner that the passenger side doesn't. The repros have the cut out on both sides. I don't have a clue why the originals are different side to side. That cut out leaves part of an opening in the door structure uncovered. Seems like water could get through there.

Where the originals have a vinyl pouch that fits around the interior door latch mechanism, the repros have nothing but a one inch diameter perforated circle that you can punch out for the door latch to stick through......I don't understand that because the door latch mechanism is too big to fit through that hole and it won't be water tight.

So just looking for some opinions, explanations, and/or advise.

Thanks......Dave














5
General Discussion / Re: 68 grille color
« on: June 18, 2017, 03:47:35 AM »
This is my grille center, bezels, and upper and lower trim painted with a rattle can of SEM Trim Black #39143. It goes on nice and dries to a nice, even finish.




6
Restoration / Re: Advice on choosing a radiator
« on: June 08, 2017, 08:03:15 PM »
I actually did talk to one of the better know shops in the Orlando, FL area.

I was quoted $420 for a three row re-core that uses the same tube and fin spacing as the original. And then $470 using a more efficient three row core that has tighter tube and fin spacing.

They do bead blast the tanks and brackets and paint them. I did see one if their painted radiators and wasn't super impressed with the paint. I could always have them leave it bare and paint it myself.

They are on my list of possible choices.

Dave


7
Restoration / Re: Advice on choosing a radiator
« on: June 08, 2017, 07:43:35 PM »
Sorry I have not gotten back to this in so long.

I did eventually get a phone call back from Glen-Ray. They gave me an estimate of somewhere between $600 and $700 to re-core my original with a three row core.

Curious as to what the shipping would be from Florida to where Glen-Ray is in Wisconsin, I weighed and measured my radiator and estimated a box size. I plugged that info into Fedex Ground and got $67. (I'm not sure I want to get into trying to melt off just my tanks and just sending them). So with these numbers I could be looking at $750 to $850 including shipping both ways......That might by a bit much for me right now.

Still not sure which way I am going to go yet.......One consideration is a four row brass/copper replacement from US Radiator.

That brings up a new question. Would the tanks on four row be deeper from front to back and my original two row?.......If so, that would push the shroud further away from the core support....and then I would think the bolt hole in the shroud bracket that is bolted to the core support would no longer line up with the bolt hole in the top of the shroud.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Thanks......Dave

8
Restoration / Re: Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: June 06, 2017, 03:12:43 AM »
Turned out GREAT, but man, you must have a DAMN STEADY HAND!!!

Ed

Not really. I drilled a couple of holes in an upright board that the "barbs" on the bottom the cover would hook into and hold the cover still. So it was really the cover that was steady, not me!

9
Restoration / Re: Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: June 05, 2017, 10:59:07 PM »
Here is a better picture without the glare on the lenses. The CHQ lenses are crystal clear.

A couple of other details......I found some fluorescent gauge needle paint online at a place called HI-PO Parts Garage and freshened up my needles with it. It's very cheap.

https://www.hipoparts.com/fluorescent-speedo-gauge-needle-restoration-paint/

On my temperature gauge, the orange "caution" and red "hot" marks were almost completely faded away. I got small cans of red and orange spray paint at a hobby store and touched them up. It adds some nice color to the gauges that really stands out.

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10
Restoration / Re: Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: June 05, 2017, 10:05:59 PM »
I used the yellow Easy Off.

I was a little leery of letting it sit on there for hours. I would spray it and let it sit for an hour. After that, I started going over it with a red Sotchbrite pad. I found that it lifted the paint rather than dissolved it. Some areas would come right off. Others, it didn't seem to touch. I had to repeat the process three or four times till it all came off. I used a toothpick to get in the small crevices.


11
Restoration / Re: Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: June 05, 2017, 08:26:18 PM »
I tried sanding this before trying to strip it wasn't sanding well. Even though it had been dry for several days, it seemed "gummy" when I tried to sand it.

I went the Easy Off Oven Cleaner route to strip it and that worked. The bare plastic has an interesting pattern in it.

I found some Rustoleum Matte Robin's Egg at Walmart to repaint the back of the cover. It pretty similar to what the factory used.

I repainted the black and that came out alright but there was no way I was going to try to mask the black  again to apply the silver.

I bought a "Chrome Refinishing Paint Marker" from The Parts Place which they claim is closer to Chrome that any other similar product. I was not impressed. It looked the same as a silver Sharpie......I found a "DecoColor Premium" metallic marker at Walmart and did the silver edges with that. It's not chrome but it's closer than the other marker.

Over all, it came out OK.

The first picture is the cover before I started on and the last is the finished product. I added some new CHQ lenses and that makes a big difference.

Dave












12
Restoration / Re: Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: May 24, 2017, 12:19:08 AM »
Thanks for the replies.

Going to sound weird but soaking it in a crock pot of soapy water on low and slow heat will release the paint and hopefully not be hot enough to warp the plastic. Or just try soaking it in a bucket of hot soapy water, changing the water often enough to keep some heat or leave it in the sun all afternoon.

I'll try the hot soapy water in the sun first.  The heat of a crock pot scares me....and I don't own one anyhow.

Hi Dave,

  Funny you write this as I am just starting to look into repainting my console and wanted to strip the paint. I searched youtube and see acetone and Easy Off oven cleaner is popular with removing paint from plastic. I have a junk console I'm going to try that on.

Mike

I'll try the easy off if the soapy water doesn't do the trick.......By the way Mike, I just painted my console. I did not strip it. The only paint that was on it was the original factory paint. I gave it a good scrubbing with Dawn and a Scotch Brite pad. I painted it with an aerosol can of SEM Color Coat Landau Black #15013. I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. I have an NOS console door lid that's been sitting in a box for 20 years. The SEM paint is almost a dead nuts match to the factory paint on that door lid. I did not re-paint the door lid and when installed on the painted console, you'd swear the console and lid were painted together with the same paint.

When I used to build model cars we used brake fluid to strip them...Joe

If the surface of the plastic has been sanded, is there a chance of brake fluid soaking in and ruining the chance of paint adhering to it?

Thanks.....Dave


13
Restoration / Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: May 23, 2017, 02:41:39 PM »
Any suggestions as to what will strip the paint off of a '68 console gauge cover without hurting the plastic itself.

I repainted mine and am not happy with the results and want to start over

Mine has the factory paint on it and then a couple of coats that I put on it. The black paint came out great. When I tried to do the silver trim, that did not work out so well.

I'd rather start from scratch rather than sanding and piling more paint on it.

Thanks.....Dave


14
Restoration / 68 console shift plate woodgrain panel replacement
« on: May 17, 2017, 02:31:31 AM »
I removed the woodgrain panel from my '68 console shift plate so I could send the shift plate out for re-chroming.

The woodgrain decal itself is bonded to a thin metal backing plate and the backing plate is glued to the shift plate. They both had to come off. I was hoping to get the woodgrain panel off without damaging it so I could put it back on later but didn't fare too well there.

I heated it with a heat gun as much as I dared and tried to gently pry it up. It would come up very slowly but not without distorting and ruining the metal backing plate of the woodgrain. I don't know what kind of glue GM used for that but it is some very tough stuff!

Getting to my question, I see many vendors sell the woodgrain replacement panel that includes the metal backing plate. Just wondering if anyone can recommend who to buy from with regards to quality, good fitment, and woodgrain that is close to the original in color and pattern.

Thanks.....Dave





15
I will take a look on Ebay.

I know this has been said thousands of times before but if these companies are going to go through the trouble of making these parts, why don't they make them right?

It's hard to make sense out of it!

I don't want to put the originals back on but it might come down to that.

The attached picture shows the PUI outer felt attached to the reveal molding. The fit is OK. The "whiskers" are about an 1/8 inch thick. I have reproductions door windows and they have less curvature front to back than the original GM's. I was thinking that thicker "whiskers" might help fill the gap created at the center of the window by the flatter curved glass.......Has anyone found outer felts that are thicker than 1/8 inch that have mated up the reveal moldings without a problem?......I've seen thicker ones installed in cars but have no idea who made them

Thanks.....Dave



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