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Messages - Stingr69

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Decoding/Numbers / Re: TT and Engine Stamp Opinions
« on: February 13, 2019, 01:06:03 AM »
Wicked cut on those cylinder heads!!!!

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Casting Date?
« on: February 12, 2019, 06:38:58 PM »
I have a -010 block I am working on now.  It has large casting date codes on the side (hidden behind the starter).  Was originally a 1975 truck block.

Restoration / Re: COWL HOOD FRAME
« on: January 16, 2019, 05:05:32 PM »
The '69 ZL2 cowl induction electric solenoid is a common part that was also used on 70's Corvettes. Not sure if the frames will interchange but you can take a run at it.  The smog era Corvette pieces are much cheaper than the '69 Z/28 pieces even if they are the same part number.  ;)

Originality / Re: Mystery Z28(?) Oil Pan
« on: January 13, 2019, 10:07:27 PM »
Looks like the one I have.  This is a '79 production line L-82 pan.  Good piece.

Originality / Re: Mystery Z28(?) Oil Pan
« on: January 13, 2019, 07:08:40 PM »
Late L-82 Corvette pan is possible.  I will check the one I have in the garage later and report back if I can add anything.

That pan and its other very similar versions were produced by GM for decades.  Saw where Bob Harris claims to be having them made now.  They go for $260 new.

General Discussion / Re: 1969 Smog pump and parts on ebay
« on: December 14, 2018, 08:46:27 PM »
Its a lot of old junk.  Not even correct for a 69 Camaro.  Seized pump, wrong trees that have been cut off so no fittings, wrong bracket, wrong diverter valve, some extra bracket stuff.  Not worth much of anything.  JUNK!!!

General Discussion / Re: Another 69Z project for sale (orange this time)
« on: December 09, 2018, 03:32:20 PM »
There are still things to look for.  None of them are shown.....

General Discussion / Re: 69 Z Exhaust Manifold gaskets
« on: November 23, 2018, 09:16:13 PM »
Metal to metal originally.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Z11 on CL
« on: November 21, 2018, 01:03:53 PM »
A vert with that much RUST is only for someone who really knows what they are doing.  So sad.

Originality / Re: Holley Dual Feed Fuel Line Y-Block
« on: October 25, 2018, 12:59:03 PM »
Weatherhead fittings were/are available at any hardware store.  Not sure about the assembly line.

Maintenance / Re: 302 Valve adjustment
« on: October 22, 2018, 11:32:24 AM »
The actual rocker arm ratio can be different than the advertised ratio. 

The GM original cam grind has a .020 high clearance ramp (that is very long).  If you have a dial indicator you can determine the exact lash for your particular non-original rocker arms. 

Remove one rocker arm - Set up dial indicator to read cam lobe lift on that pushrod tip - Rotate the engine until the cam lifts the pushrod .020" - Remove dial indicator and reinstall your rocker arm with zero lash - rotate the engine so that cam lobe is back all the way down to the base circle - Measure the lash at that rocker arm tip to valve now.  That lash dimension you measured is your hot lash spec for your particular rocker arms.

Good idea to recheck and record all the valve clearances after cam run-in.  If the dimensions are opening up on one or more valves, you could have wiped out those lobe(s).

Restoration / Re: undercoating
« on: October 21, 2018, 01:37:18 PM »
The factory specified undercoating be applied as shown in the Assembly Instruction Manual.  UPC 11/13 Sheet B1 shows where it was applied inside the front fenders.  Basically only the inner rear part of the inner fender was coated at the factory.  If you have more than that on your inner front fenders, it was not factory applied.  Rear inner wheel wells were coated as well but it may have been part of Fisher Body plant procedures. You can compare front to back.

Mild Modifications / Re: Stock-Looking HEI
« on: October 17, 2018, 06:33:46 PM »
I actually have used a "Stinger" magnetic trigger conversion for a bit and now use the GM points (acting as a trigger switch only) with a Crane Multispark CD setup and stock coil.  The points electrical contact surfaces do not wear out because they only carry a small switch current this way.  I get an adjustable rev limiter with the Crane box so that is a plus. Box is mounted inside car under the center speaker grille.  Can set RPM limit to 2500 for "Valet Mode".  Pretty handy.

Restoration / Re: 1968 SS 396 Clutch
« on: October 16, 2018, 03:41:07 PM »
That flywheel is for the 11" clutch.  You may be able to resurface it and run it if not heat cracked too bad.

If the disk has enough material on it, and it is not warped, and the springs are still tight, you could TRY to use it.

The pressure plate can get heat damage and it will be difficult to diagnose visually.  If the heat checks are not too bad, you can bench assemble the clutch to the flywheel and see if the diaphragm fingers are all still aligned with everything torqued down.

All that but still comes down to whether or not it will do its job.  If you adjust it properly AND it still will not release, you will need to pull the whole thing apart again to replace it.  If the pressure plate springs are heated to where they will not clamp hard enough anymore, you will need to pull it apart again and replace the assembly.

Replace the throw out bearing for sure and examine the pilot bushing to see if you can reuse it.

OR....just replace it now.

I have removed and replaced my clutch 3 times in one day to fix a damaged pressure plate that "looked" good.

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