1
Maintenance / Re: Tach repair
« on: March 15, 2025, 12:53:55 PM »
Gary the Tachman did mine decades ago. Still working great.
H&H Auto
Call: 1-864-895-4404
www.tachman.com
H&H Auto
Call: 1-864-895-4404
www.tachman.com
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2
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1968 Z28 intake
« on: February 24, 2025, 01:59:18 PM »
I think that manifold is much later. Could have come from a GM crate motor. The squared off port exits give it away at a glance. Assy line intakes were plain.
It has the centraly located thermostat housing so it would work for a '69. Earlier Z/28 manifolds had an offset thermostat location that would not line of with the long water pump style '69 alternator bracket.
It has the centraly located thermostat housing so it would work for a '69. Earlier Z/28 manifolds had an offset thermostat location that would not line of with the long water pump style '69 alternator bracket.
3
Maintenance / Re: Reverse lockout and reverse lights issue
« on: October 01, 2024, 12:58:16 PM »
If you have a modified car you could add a switch to the transmission. Either the GM switch to the reverse lever or a Hurst switch on the shifter. Run the pink and green wires to it if I remember the colors right.
If you remove the lock plate from the column, the locking effect goes away.
Some people have modified the lockout linkage to keep it all functioning.
Hope this helps.
If you remove the lock plate from the column, the locking effect goes away.
Some people have modified the lockout linkage to keep it all functioning.
Hope this helps.
4
General Discussion / Re: 69 AC Remanufacrured compressor
« on: August 16, 2024, 03:51:31 PM »
Might be worth it to get the compressor and entire system flushed out before you install it. Start fresh.
5
General Discussion / Re: Question for Dave69x33
« on: June 21, 2024, 11:51:53 AM »
Idle vacuum was ?
6
General Discussion / Re: Question for Dave69x33
« on: June 19, 2024, 05:58:10 PM »
I think he has a Comp 12-770-8, 274/280, 564/570, 110 LSA 
7
Originality / Re: 1969 Camaro Z28 shifter knob or ball options
« on: June 15, 2024, 02:31:54 PM »
Or a Hurst locknut. ;~D
8
Restoration / Re: Over the counter replacement m-22
« on: June 15, 2024, 11:09:53 AM »
Yes it is possible. Either a warranty replacement or a parts department over the counter purchase.
They would have a "CT" stamping.
They would have a "CT" stamping.
9
Originality / Re: 1969 Camaro Z28 shifter knob or ball options
« on: May 30, 2024, 10:47:54 PM »
I know they never came with a jam nut BUT...
Chevrolet discontinued the Chrome Ball very early as I tried to get one in the early '80's and they were already discontinued by then. The last iteration they sold was a crappy black plastic version smaller than the original and they looked like they belonged on a kids toy. The repro looks pretty good but the threads are no way as good as GM. You need the lock nut just to keep it screwed on.
Chevrolet discontinued the Chrome Ball very early as I tried to get one in the early '80's and they were already discontinued by then. The last iteration they sold was a crappy black plastic version smaller than the original and they looked like they belonged on a kids toy. The repro looks pretty good but the threads are no way as good as GM. You need the lock nut just to keep it screwed on.
10
Restoration / Re: bellhousing alignment-any new info?
« on: May 18, 2024, 02:39:49 PM »
Ball bearings on the input shaft are more tolerant to bell housing misalignment. Muncies use that type.
Factory bell housing alignment are usually good enough for service with the Muncie and with a bronze bushing they are trouble free and easy to service. Newer reproduction bell housings or aftermarket bell housings are more frequently out of alignment enough to need offset pins to correct it.
The newer design Tremec transmissions use a tapered roller front bearing that is more intolerant of bell housing runout so it needs to be checked and corrected before buttoning it all together.
As for the pilot bearing vs bushing - the bushing works great and is easy to remove and install. The bearing is more difficult to remove, more intolerant of misalignment and does not bring anything to the table so....Why would anyone prefer a pilot bearing? JMO.
Factory bell housing alignment are usually good enough for service with the Muncie and with a bronze bushing they are trouble free and easy to service. Newer reproduction bell housings or aftermarket bell housings are more frequently out of alignment enough to need offset pins to correct it.
The newer design Tremec transmissions use a tapered roller front bearing that is more intolerant of bell housing runout so it needs to be checked and corrected before buttoning it all together.
As for the pilot bearing vs bushing - the bushing works great and is easy to remove and install. The bearing is more difficult to remove, more intolerant of misalignment and does not bring anything to the table so....Why would anyone prefer a pilot bearing? JMO.
11
General Discussion / Re: Holley 4053 Substitute
« on: May 10, 2024, 04:00:02 PM »
"3310" 750 CFM vacuum secondary is a close match. It comes as a manual choke but they do offer a different version with a built in electric choke.
The 1810 is more of a universal economy carb model.
The 1810 is more of a universal economy carb model.
12
General Discussion / Re: Excessive Oil usage on 302's
« on: March 19, 2024, 02:05:30 PM »
The Chevy Power Manual has pictures of these lifters. The standard solid lifter was the "piddle valve" and it has a hole for oil feed in the machined down waist area (typical of the hydraulic and sold flat tappet lifters you see today). The "Edge Orifice" reduced oil feed solid lifters have the oil feed hole on the large diameter of the lifter body so it gets a lot less oil feed.
The Power Manual also shows the "Mushroom" solid lifter which has a larger foot that rides on the lobe and must be installed in the block from the bottom of the lifter bore. The mushroom lifter can move the valve faster due to the larger foot at the cam. More agressive cam profiles are possible.
The Power Manual also shows the "Mushroom" solid lifter which has a larger foot that rides on the lobe and must be installed in the block from the bottom of the lifter bore. The mushroom lifter can move the valve faster due to the larger foot at the cam. More agressive cam profiles are possible.
13
General Discussion / Re: Prepping the 302 for heavy-duty service
« on: February 11, 2024, 09:29:24 PM »
Just a thought - Might be good to post the "Green Sheets" car prep details, if you have them.
14
Originality / Re: Z/28 Oil Pan?
« on: January 15, 2024, 12:16:22 PM »
Its a "Z/28" pan. probably a "465220" per the Chevy Power Manual. The part number and minor details changed a few times. It was available in the Performance Parts catalog for many years. It was discontinued not that long ago.
Most of the Corvette pans were shaped differently (shallower and longer sump) and are unique to Corvettes. Corvette windage trays were shorter in length. The front of the Corvette tray is truncated so it only covers the sump, as the pan bottom runs into it there.
Oddly, the '79 Corvette L-82 actually used a version of this "Z/28 style" deeper sump pan with the long windage tray. Only 1 year.
The block changed in '80 (dipstick side) so the pans changed again after that.
Most of the Corvette pans were shaped differently (shallower and longer sump) and are unique to Corvettes. Corvette windage trays were shorter in length. The front of the Corvette tray is truncated so it only covers the sump, as the pan bottom runs into it there.
Oddly, the '79 Corvette L-82 actually used a version of this "Z/28 style" deeper sump pan with the long windage tray. Only 1 year.
The block changed in '80 (dipstick side) so the pans changed again after that.
15
Restoration / Re: My 1969 Camaro will not shut off
« on: December 01, 2023, 05:53:09 PM »
Have you changed anything on the car recently? Ignition box? Some times you need a diode in the regulator circuit to prevent it from back-feeding. I have one.