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General Discussion / Re: A very rare Camaro indeed
« on: August 30, 2024, 01:20:01 AM »
Youll never convince the owner he was wrong. Flatearther.
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I just read the PM. I usually get email notifications about PMs but perhaps the settings changed.Some of the newer strippers are junk. They reformulated the Klean Strip brand to a better aggressive version and it was great like the old stuff. Then certain states like CT stopped selling it. And this is at a jobber where shops like myself buy it. Someone I know got another brand at HD that worked well but I don't recall the name. I may have been Rustoleum's new formula which I've tried and it was "OK". It shouln't hurt the 'glass like it can to bumper covers which hobby people rarely have to contend with. Common sense dictates to try it first. It helps if you abrade the paint with coarse grit before application. Disappointing strippers are no fun.
Hi Sauron, I went with Uscrichter's suggestion and the Aircraft Stripper did not do much to the bottom of the spoiler. So now I think I will try hitting it with a coarse grit and then a coat of stripper. I tried messaging you on a paint question but it does not appear my question sent? I will try messaging you again for your advice. Thanks , Jon
Alright, as this post is right up my alley, for the same reasons. The number 1 gripe in the whole of my restoration is of course the Master cyl, purchased 1 from a major Camaro Vendor, came to me in El naturale and now is the sore spot for me every time open the hood, for show at car shows, Dag gum it surface rust already. So I’m open to suggestions as to remedy this on the car. To dam old for removal and cleaning. Do got a question, can I use a rust prohibitive as a primer, then good semi black cover coat? Thanks, all here!Clean the rust off, epoxy and topcoat it. I've done them neatly on the car. I stock auto paint, but you can use a quality primer and paint and it will be fine.
The measurement that is not included in the diagram is the floor to the top of the rear sub frame mount. One would assume that they should be the same height across both subframe rails so that's why it is not needed in the diagram.Just add to the 5-1/2" dimension on the frame sheet to find the dimension "not included". I was a frame tech for years and still have to be when restoring these cars. Last 67 I did was t-boned, bent and needed to be yanked. Any decent frame shop can straighten your subframe; but most collision shops do not want to bother with old cars that require basic common sense frame straightning techniques. It's not hard. Fix it at home...Block, tie down, jack, whatever it takes. This is why I tell people to put anchor pots in their shops when pouring a floor. They can be installed afterward also and come in handy for many tasks.