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Messages - Sauron327

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1
General Discussion / Re: 1967 Custom stripes
« on: November 09, 2018, 01:33:12 AM »
People wrap entire cars these days so I would think a compound curve could be dealt with.
Wraps are different from stencils or decals. Been in the business for decades and still hand letter and pinstripe. With the Olds AIM I provided, P.G. is still in the process of dealing with the compound curves and layout with the incorrect 442 stencils.  They will be refunding my money.
 
One option is to lay it out by hand. If a tape width is not available off the shelf, just have your local sign shop cut it in Gerbermask, which is what graphics companies use. Some use inferior mask which results in bleedthrough. Or try Finesse Striping. Any knowledgeable restoration shop will have all this info. If one provides a sign shop with dimensions, a stencil or decal can easily be cut.

2
General Discussion / Re: 1967 Custom stripes
« on: November 07, 2018, 08:56:17 PM »
Stencils & Stripes or Phoenix Graphix. Best of luck. I tried S&S years ago for a bumblebee stripe stencil and last week was a Phoenix stencil for a 442. Ended up masking the bumblebee freehand and did the same with the 442.

3
General Discussion / Re: Quarter Panel Stiffener
« on: October 30, 2018, 08:17:57 PM »
No seam sealer is applied below the bumper. Any NVH you buy will be fine for the stiffener.

4
General Discussion / Re: VERY interesting Garage Find Today, NOT a Camaro
« on: October 01, 2018, 04:49:56 PM »
Very cool. Has anyone had any luck duplicating that process for the right finished product?
Obsolete colors are reformulated using today's toners. You'd have to call your jobber or the paint library, give them the WA number and see what is in the formula.

5
Restoration / Re: REAR LEAF SPRINGS PAINT
« on: September 28, 2018, 12:06:57 PM »
Monos are painted grey, multis are natural spring steel color. A 67 I did had the original gray under the perch as Mike stated. Take a ride to your local spring shop to see actual multi appearance.

6
Restoration / Re: 69 quarter panel louvers
« on: September 26, 2018, 09:00:43 PM »
SEM Trim Black. New Euro Trim is blacker than the original Trim Black.

7
General Discussion / Re: fan blade in relation to shrowd
« on: September 22, 2018, 09:17:41 PM »
Fof those that don't know, cooling tech info is on CRG: http://www.camaros.org/pdf/corv_cooling2.pdf

8
Mild Modifications / Re: Replacement hood
« on: September 22, 2018, 10:40:29 AM »
Do not go back to that shop. They and the blaster have zero knowledge about correct blasting technique and media. Butchers. It's been a while since I used a repro SS hood which was Goodmark. It needed work to make it fit correctly, like every other repro panel.  Ask Muscle Car Metal how he likes the Dcorn panels, which is what he primarily uses.

9
Mild Modifications / Re: Prothane poly bushings in leafsprings
« on: September 19, 2018, 05:31:10 PM »
I rebuilt a set of rear leaf springs and used the poly bushings and had the same results. I also added a rear sway bar. I was told how much better it would handle. Put it in a curve with uneven pavement and came extremely close to crashing my car. Today those bushings and sway bar are packed away in my garage.

Incorrect sway bar diameters can have a negative effect on handling.

10
Mild Modifications / Re: Prothane poly bushings in leafsprings
« on: September 19, 2018, 05:15:47 PM »
I installed new Prothane poly bushings in the leafsprings and I now have buyers remorse. I greased the bushings exactly like was written in the instructions. Even with my best effort, the rear shackles area creaking like an old rocking chair. I called Prothane and the recommendation I tightened the bolts more so it bottoms out on the inner sleeve. I cranked it as tight as I could with a wrench and creaking was slightly less. Iím thinking about going back to rubber. Anyone have any experience either way?

Superior design to Prothane: http://www.globalwest.net/camaro-del-a-lum-rear-leaf-spring-shackle-kit-global-west-1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1981.html

11
Restoration / Re: GM hood hinge springs
« on: September 12, 2018, 12:02:49 AM »
So what's this washer trick for spring replacement?
You do not need to use washers. 
Every make and model I've done was accomplished with a vise and a hook to remove and install the spring.  Piece of cake. No washers.

12
Restoration / Re: GM hood hinge springs
« on: September 11, 2018, 11:53:13 PM »
Scott,

  What are you talking about?  The picture speaks for itself in regards to hue between the spring and hinge. Looking at it in person they look the same. The photo shows a slight variance.

Mike
I've noticed different hues when comparing spring steel and non spring steel. That is all. Photorealistic airbrushing is a field with which I am familiar.

13
Restoration / Re: GM hood hinge springs
« on: September 06, 2018, 11:36:53 PM »
GM Part number?
The GM P/N is 3848372 and I paid $30 for the pair.
It is a 28 coil spring. Attached is a picture of the spring in its packaged oil finish. It matches the hinge but in the photo it appears slightly darker.

Mike

Please explain how metals manufactured with different  procedures produce the exact same hue and value in regard to springs and hinges.

14
Restoration / Re: GM hood hinge springs
« on: September 06, 2018, 03:17:50 PM »
Because the springs are spring steel, they have a different hue and value than the phosphated hinges.

15
General Discussion / Re: 69 Body Sag
« on: August 23, 2018, 12:02:46 AM »
another posibility as you say its all original and you don't think it is from hole shots.

If the car was jacked up at one point, possibly just one side or with one jack stand holding up one corner for a long (over a year) extended period of time, you could have the body warp a little like what you are describing. As mentioned I would think you would see other evidence such as door gaps that would also have resulted,  especially since the difference side to side seems so large.
If been in the collision and resto business for decades and gravity will not produce the results you suggest.  The car would have to be severely compromised and ready to fail at most spotwelds. The owner should have a qualified tech evaluate the car. Easy job for one in the industry on a daily basis.

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