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Messages - Sauron327

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General Discussion / Re: team camaro
« on: February 11, 2018, 03:19:39 PM »
Use an ad blocker.

General Discussion / Re: Resizer for photos
« on: February 02, 2018, 12:13:47 AM »
You can e-mail photos to yourself for downsizing. Other sites do not require downsizing and uploading photos is a snap.

Restoration / Re: 1967 RS/SS 396 - L35 M40 project
« on: January 28, 2018, 07:48:15 PM »
Manual disc brakes - J52.

If you replace the brake lines, be forewarned. I'm converting a 67 to manual disc and Inline Tube and Right Stuff got the crossover line on the subframe wrong. Right Stuff was wrong twice. Set up an account with Inline and they guaranteed theirs would fit which was not the case. It was not even close. The original drum line is correct. All their other lines were fine. Right Stuff also shipped the wrong front section for two piece rear line. Parts are inventoried wrong and mislabeled.

Restoration / Re: Dash suede paint
« on: January 25, 2018, 07:12:46 PM »
I stock SEM texture coating in quarts and gun spray it. It provides more control, and allows reducing to alter the texture. Then topcoat with the color of choice. Far more economical than lacquer at $100 per pint.

Maintenance / Re: '69 Camaro SS convertible heater core replacement
« on: January 12, 2018, 03:42:29 PM »
He needs to get the box off first.  Fasteners are on engine bay side.  How else would you do it? 
The 5 nuts fastening the inner box are accessible from the engine bay. The sheetmetal screws near the blower motor only fasten the cover, and do not fasten the inner box. No reason to remove the sheetmetal screws, the cover, or pry the fender out.

Maintenance / Re: '69 Camaro SS convertible heater core replacement
« on: January 12, 2018, 02:47:52 AM »
Unbolt the outer fender to inner fender bolts. Unbolt the lower rocker panel fender bolt. Push outer fender away and insert a piece of 2x4 to hold it open while you r&r the core. I had the water connections loaded up on brazing rod a lot to make it last a long time and it has not needed any attention in the last 30+ years. :)
The core cannot be removed from the engine bay side. Your procedure applies to blower motor R&I. Repairs are done with solder, not braze.

Originality / Re: What is this?
« on: January 08, 2018, 11:42:28 PM »
I have three 67s here, and have had numerous 67s and that clip was not on any of them. Including cars that have never been disassembled.

General Discussion / Re: Sweet looking 69 BB car for sale
« on: January 03, 2018, 03:05:55 PM »
So it has sold since November when I saw it??   That's too bad.  Hopefully someone eventually buys the car that will enjoy it rather than flip it.

I don't do Instagram, tweet, facebook, or any of that other social media stuff, so can't view it.  But if I saw the guy again I'd likely recognize him if it's the same one from Phoenix.  We'll see if the car shows up again at the Pavs in the next couple weeks.

Restoration / Re: 69 SS convertible exhaust system
« on: January 01, 2018, 07:14:22 PM »
Gardner is overpriced for a driver. D&R Classic has a nice, wallet friendly exhaust. I think Ground Up was going to begin stocking the same one but I have to check next time I'm down there. Also not sure if Gardner fixed their issues from a while back as stated in thisthread:

Garage Talk / Re: Kudos to the CRG
« on: December 24, 2017, 03:01:55 PM »
Parallel alignment, or squareness as Mike states, affects the concentric alignment. Parallel must be corrected before an accurate concentric reading can be taken. Jody's Transmissions will not warranty his trannys unless this procedure is documented. Buy a box of stainless shims. It is the inconsistent machining of the block and bellhousing that causes problems.

Originality / Re: 1967 RS/SS black paint on rear tail light panel.
« on: December 13, 2017, 03:32:25 AM »
When this procedure was taped out at the factory it was done fast. So to reproduce correctly do it fast with little care of how it turns out.
Exactly. Those with little exposure to survivors or old cars in general expect these cars to look like late model cars. I'm restoring a 67 for someone and the RH side of the tailpanel was cracked when stamped, poorly aligned with the quarter from the factory, and poorly welded. Assembly line sloppiness was not uncommon. It was considered transportation, not a work of art or showcar.

Originality / Re: 1967 RS/SS black paint on rear tail light panel.
« on: December 13, 2017, 03:18:52 AM »
Here's another discussion on the topic.

Here's an older one from our site.

There are several exceptional, original paint survivors with glossy rear panels. Why aren't there any satin survivors?

Jerry states in that thread that eggshell has more gloss than satin. Industry standards dictate satin has more gloss than eggshell which contradicts his data. The gloss level of unbuffed lacquer exceeds an eggshell finish. I wonder how many people on this site stock various sheens of black, have sprayed it and other products daily or weekly for decades, stock flattening agent, or have shot lacquer over the years. Jobbers and shops have decks that dictate gloss levels, common for those who do this every day. Most who are not professionals commonly misuse paint terminology, which only adds to the confusion.

General Discussion / Re: 67 on Mecum
« on: December 09, 2017, 11:21:23 PM »
Surprised they left that aftermarket side molding on it.
Decades in the business and those were common and installed with rivets. Remove them and you are left with holes. Saw hundreds of riveted moldings in the late 70's and early 80's when I was just a pup driving these cars. Normal dealer installed option.

Only the person viewing the pics can see them in Chrome. I've done this. You cannot re-establish pics posted in threads if you had a build thread for instance. For more info, check out the nightmares on TC or other sites. Too bad many valuable pics got lost when CRG got hacked. Those threads are now useless. At some point, P.bucket will figure out the fix Chrome provided, and block that also.

Restoration / Re: Norwood stickers
« on: December 02, 2017, 02:04:27 PM »
Yes correct, that is why I'm trying to do as much as I can myself. But the quarter panels are beyond my skill level so will be farmed out, the shop is right next door to where I work so I can keep a eye on the car.
Just because they are next door doesn't mean it will be done as the factory did it. You have to decide if you want it done right or just installed.
The most skill and patiance is in removing the old quarters without cutting into other parts such as the brace supports.
Body shops are all about just getting it done and move on.
The last four jobs I took in were butchered by other shops, two of which were self proclaimed restoration shops. It is costly to repair a shop's hackwork. The convenience of a shop being next door should be last on the list of qualifications.

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